the penn 330 gti is simply the bigger brother of the 320 gti with the same spool as the 3/0 sized penn 112h. it has all the same advantages, and disadvantages, of the penn 320 gti. the only real difference is the larger frame and spool.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4138.JPG)
to remove the right side plate assembly (key #1), remove the right side plate screws (key #32).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4139.JPG)
the reel breaks down into three pieces, the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L) and the right side plate assembly (key #1).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4140.JPG)
lube the left side plate bearing (key #40).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4141.JPG)
lube the worm (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4142.JPG)
here's a look at the spool (key #29L). it is a 112h spool on a different spool shaft.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4143.JPG)
put the spool (key #29L) back in the frame assembly (key #183) and set it aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4144.JPG)
now for the right side plate assembly (key #1). remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4145.JPG)
remove the handle assembly screw (key #23).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4146.JPG)
remove the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4147.JPG)
remove the star drag (key #10) and tension spring (key #8). i typically discard the tension spring at this point.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4148.JPG)
push the eccentric lever assembly (key #21) forward and into gear, then back out all four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17) and leave them all in place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4149.JPG)
the bridge assembly (key #3) will fall out easily, so catch it without turning the right side plate (key #1) upside down.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4150.JPG)
here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and main gear clustger (key #5).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4151.JPG)
we're going to switch out the fiber washer (key #4) for a drag washer (penn part #6-875).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4152.JPG)
grease the drag washer (part #6-875).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4153.JPG)
rebuild the drag stack, starting with the #6-875 washer underneath the main gear.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4154.JPG)
slap a thick coat of drag grease on all the other carbon fiber drag washers and rebuild the drag stack.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4155.JPG)
place your left and middle fingers over the bridge screws and lift up the right side plate.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4156.JPG)
now flip it over and everything should stay in place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4157.JPG)
install the bridge assembly (key #3) and rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4158.JPG)
install the dog spring (key #14) and dog (key #15).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4159.JPG)
rotate the bridge (key #3) 90 degrees clockwise until the bridge plate seats properly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4160.JPG)
with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate (key #1) over.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN41611.JPG)
set each bridge screw (key #'s 16 and 17) halfway, then snug them down until they seat properly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4162.JPG)
check the function of the anti-reverse mechanism.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4163.JPG)
check the function of the eccentric lever assembly (key #21).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4164.JPG)
lube the spool shaft (key #29L).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4165.JPG)
lube the bearing (no key #) in the bridge (key #3).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4166.JPG)
install the right side plate assembly (key #1) and right side plate screws (key #32).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4167.JPG)
install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulders of the gear sleeve (key #98).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4168.JPG)
install the handle (key #24). note that a penn senator power handle (part #24-349H) may be substituted here as well.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4169.JPG)
install the handle assembly screw (key #23).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4170.JPG)
install the handle lock screw (key #23A).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4171.JPG)
done!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4172.JPG)
written 5/5/08 at
mike, thank you!
Quote
Hi Alan,
My name is Mike Ackal. I own and operate a rod and reel repair shop in south Louisiana, LA Reel Repair. I am also an Airframe and Powerplant technician for a large helicopter leasing company (I stay pretty busy). I have read and enjoyed many of your posts pertaining to reel rebuilds and upgrades and just became a member of your alantani.com site. The reason I am writing you, besides the formal introduction, is in response to your article about the Penn 3 series reel rebuild. You said that you damaged the bearing in the bridge assembly when you removed it by hammering it out with a socket. I not long ago rebuilt a Penn 330 GTi, which is very similar (as you know, sorry) and needed to remove the worn bearing in the bridge assembly. I used a technique that I have used for removing bearings in everything from lawn mower wheels to universal joints. I do not own a hydraulic press, but hopefully I will get one someday. In the meantime, I use a C-clamp (6 to 8 inch preferably) with a socket placed over the bearing opening on the egress (inner) side of the bridge bearing housing large enough to allow the bearing to enter the socket, and a smaller socket that fits in the opening on the outside of the bridge bearing housing in contact with the bearing. Place your C-clamp around the two sockets, turn the crank, and press the bearing out. It comes out easily, with no damage to your bearing or bridge. Just be sure and stake it back in carefully. I like a 1/16" pin punch for that.
That's all for now, just a small way of thanking you for all of your helpful tips and tricks. I have a few others I will try and share now and then as I think of them. I also have a decent inventory of hard to find parts for older Penn, Ambassadeur, Bantam, Diawa, some Lew's, some Shakespeare. If you need anything that you cannot find anywhere else, give me a shout, I may have it. If you would like to contact me by phone, my number is 337-380-0989 and I'm normally home after 3:00 PM PST on weekdays. I have learned a lot from your site and I still have much to learn about this business, so I look forward to having another fellow workbench seat warmer for a friend. Thank you for all you do for and contribute to our hobby and livelihood.
Sincerely,
Mike Ackal
LA Reel Repair
St. Martinville, LA
Hey Mike,
Thanks for the advice on removing the bearing with the c clamp it works great.
Hadge
hi mike,thanks for the tip. do you have a main gear and pinion for bantam 500? cheers
how do i get the pictures to show?
host them on photobucket or picasa and then copy the [img] code and the photo will pop up. you can also host them here using "additional options."
I think what he was asking was "where did the pictures for this thread go?', when I looked at this thread after he posted his question on sunday, there were no pictures showing. After you posted your reply and I looked again, the pictures were back.
Just replaced the bearings in two 330GTI's. Your bearing removal tip was great except that I used a bench vice instead of a G Clamp.
Well done tutorial !!! Thanks, AT.
You grease all the drag washers.. correct.
yup!
Quote from: Hadge on March 24, 2011, 09:19:29 PM
Hey Mike,
Thanks for the advice on removing the bearing with the c clamp it works great.
Hadge
I just take a small 1/4" drive socket that fits inside the dead bearing and give it a whack with a drift.
To install the new one, I just grease the bridge boss, align the new brg, and push it in with the spool.
Works for me, your mileage may vary.
Hi All, I recently bought a couple of used GTi 330's for trolling striped bass up here in NJ. Upon stripping the old line, I found bad salt buildup and corrosion of the spool surface (with the 112H marking on it). I went to my local Penn guy and bought a new spool but the new one does not fit in the existing bridge bearing ofn either reel. Have any of you seen this? Solution?
they use the same spool, but i'm pretty sure the spool shaft is different, which is why it has a different part number. i'll bet you just got a 112h spool with a 112h spool shaft. :-\
I chucked it up in a drill and hit it with a smooth jewelers file, problem solved! Thanks! ;D
How do you know when these drag washers have had enough and are due for replacing? I rebuilt a 330 today, again Thanks to this site. The washers look a little shot compared to new ones, but maybe they still are good?
just slap some cal's grease on them. they're good for ever. no kidding. literally forever!
I have a Penn 330 GT and noticed that the spool tension control cap is missing. This appears to be item 26B from the schematic. I was going to order a set so smooth drags. Are there other parts that likely fell out when the cap went missing? Where is the best place to order a replacement? I reviewed the tutorials I could find and it appears this cap is left in place on servicing the the bearing lubed from the inside. Thanks in advance. Ken
MysticParts.com.
Likely you are missing the discs and spring in the cap if your cap is missing.
You can link at the reel schematics at MysticParts.com.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Alan,
Here is your FANTASTIC TUTORIAL in PDF format for EASY DOWNLOAD ! ! !
I used this tutorial and serviced my wife's 330 GTI in less than an hour. It was pretty clean to start with and is about 6 years old, first service. The drag washers appeared dry but in good shape. I gave them a coating of Cal's drag grease and a new HT-100 washer under the main gear. No trouble. In reading the 320 GTI post there was discussion on a Teflon dot on the level wind pawl. What is that and how do you know if you need it? My level wind assembly seemed in good condition. As mentioned this is my wife's reel and paired with a short rod for halibut. Drag is probably set around 12 - 13 lbs most of the time. Thanks for the great tutorials. They make reel maintenance fun and relaxing. Ken
When it comes to drifting out parts and bearings I have found that PVC pipe fittings are very handy. Just rest the part ever the bore and tap with a soft faced hammer.
The RHS bearing in GT's are locked in the side plate by metal pinches. I grind these away before extraction.
The weakness in these reels is the drag stack. The washers are cheap and nasty and prone to rust. Then they chew out the whole stack so go heavy on the drag grease.
Started working on my 330 today. It was part of a 80 dollar haul of 3 reels and 5 rods my son scored a week ago.
So the reel seems to be in fair condition. Unfortunately the handle screw is all chewed up, missing the retaining screw and somebody clipped the line guide, also missing the pawl and pawl cap screw.
Can I take the whole level wind on this particular reel and fish it like that? Or should I bite the bullet and order the parts? Not looking to hot rod any of my reels yet but u do want them to be in good working order.
One more question; what kind of fishing is the 330 gti usually used for? If I think I'll use it a lot I, I will feel better about ordering stuff for it. Thanks and here are some pics.
Just noticed that I too am missing the spool tension cap. >:(
Just saw this. If it were mine i would put back to GWO as you say. You guys STOLE that haul :) so $20 of parts wont price things out. That will never be a shelf queen, so I would suggest making your parts list and posting it on here to see if anyone has any of them, then try used form flea bay if you can single source and avoid getting killed on shipping.
Good reels, I have several and the rest of the series. It is a good light trolling or bottom reel; I use them to pull leadcore line because the shock leader knots dont catch in the larger levelwind guide vs. 309. I think we looked at it a couple weeks ago and found it pretty castable.
Alan - I notice you state you remove and discard the tension spring (key #8)... do you not replace it with anything? Is a taller spacing sleeve required to make up for not using it?
The reel I am working on, though not shown in the schematic, has a second tension spring, which was situated between the spacing sleeve (key #9) and the first metal drag washer (key #7). This one seems more important to me than the first one. All I can see the first one does is keeps the handle from contacting the star drag. The second one seems it is necessary to keep tension on the drag stack.
Can you explain and give your opinion as to if I should leave both of them out?... Thanks
I started tossing them because they always corroded. Either way is fine.
Ill add a little to this.
The tension spring or metal washer you found on top of the last metal drag washer was put there by someone else. It was used to raise the spacer higher so the drag star wouldn't rub the sideplate of the reel when the star is tightened all the way down. Even if the drag star wasn't rubbing the sideplate of the reel its a good way to adjust the height of the spacer.
After the reel is together with the sleeve showing I like to have one tension washer before the drag star. When the handle is on I like it where there is a little bit of drag or tension on the spool with the drag star all the way backed off.
The drags will also compress ove just a couple of days so there will be a bit more room between the handle and drag star.
I never have anything between the handle and star.
Hi..Jim from Wisconsin...just finished taking apart a 320GTI I believe..markings all but worn off..and have questions....It has ht100 drag washers and wondering if it is a good idea to clean them before greasing using gasoline, vinegar, mineral spirits etc....they feel greasy and the rest of the reel has some green brown grease in it...they could be carbontex..not sure how to tell the difference since they are kind of thin...
also the entire level wind assemble has been removed and I read that some people do that due to problems with the level wind and also to help it cast farther....would you advise I purchase the parts and replace the levelwind?? I read that Alan suggested some kind of spacer under the pawl to help the levelwind work better, longer??
Ihave never used a reel without a levelwind before....
Hope its not a problem picking this old thread....
many thanks for any help...
Have one more question...my reel has almost all of the original markings worn off...In looking at all the schematics I can find the 320GTi is the only one with 1 screw in the left side metal ring???? The others have 3..... Does that confirm that it is a 320GTi???? Appreciate your replies..
Jim from Northeast Wisconsin where fall has fell.....
I've owned both the GTi and the GT2. The GTi I had came with a black handle arm. The GT2 came with a silver handle arm with a flat rubberized knob. The later Chinese version of the GT2 came with a silver handle arm and an oval knob.
Up to you want to add the levelwind. Should work fine without it. I'd look at how much the parts will cost and then determine if it's worth it. You might be able to buy a decent used one on Ebay for close to the same price as the parts. $40 plus shipping is a fair price for one but I've bought them for as low as $25 before.
Personally, I just use paper towels to wipe down the drag washers and then I apply Cal's original drag grease. Then wipe off the excess. If they look worn, I just replace them.
I just looked myself and the 320 shows one screw. Ive never thought about it.
With those reels ive seen the worst looking gears and drags. Many, many, main gears with the drags corroded in to where you have to soak the whole thing and dig them out. The metal washers are rusted to the main gear and HT-100's.
I used them for many years for Gulf bottom fishing. Great Red Snapper reels.
Keith
If the drag washers are hard and have a glaze on them throw them away. If they are still slightly soft rub them on a cotton towel. The cotton towel helps scrub the old black carbon off.
If you replace them use Carbontex from Smooth Drag. They wil last longer than the HT-100's.
(Sorry Mo)
thanks Keith and Ftuna....very helpful...mine has a black handle and I guess the 1 screw in the left plate was lucky after looking at way too many schematics...no readable markings on the reel....the metal washers cleaned up like new and the ht100 or carbontex look pretty good..will try the cotton cloth before loading with cals...still wondering how to cast a free spool reel but will give it a try when all together....also found a couple of squidder 140 on ebay for cheap and hopefully get one really good one out of the two....Love taking these apart and cleaning etc....think I found a bug like most of you...
I finished a couple of them that the guy uses them for King Mackerel fishing in his charter business. I guess thats OK for people that don't really know what to do.
Anyway, the only problem with one of them is the plastic bushing on the worm gear got so hot it swelled and the reel was hard to turn. It must have been a big fish that didnt want to come to the boat.
Keith
I got a message from Brett(bhale1) and he said he had a 330GTi, a little rough and needing a few parts, but I could have it if I wanted it. Heck yes! A few days later it arrived. I didn't think it looked so bad...worn but not trashed...so I opened her up.
The first thing I noticed was these two busted parts. The idler gear only had that one tooth shaved off,(circled in red) but the spool gear click ratchet was missing half it's teeth.(circled in blue) A few other levelwind parts were missing too.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33988189068_ebe802e13d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TMqmtN)
I made an order from Mystic...this thing will live again!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33988188998_04a9cb7865_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TMqmsA)
This is the bearing on the bridge that the boss said was tough to get out. I see why...it's staked! I just popped the shield, squirted it clean, and oiled.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46949283535_8b8ede7c59_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ewKmiM)
The gear sleeve looked great, no deformation at the handle end. It fit the post great too, no shimming needed on this one.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46949283335_bb4466fe9f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ewKmfk)
The spool had a little corrosion, but I think we can "vinegarize" that away.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47076046844_a1396fd991_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eHX3C5)
Like it never even happened...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46949283285_fae37b3d7a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ewKmet)
I've seen folks mention these reels generally have really corroded gears and drags. I guess I got lucky, the pic below is how they came out of the reel. Look close...there's a small bit of white corrosion in the drags.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32921354667_5534c554e7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Sa9xMe)
I washed and dried the drags, smeared on the Cal's, and slapped her back together.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47076046884_1698c6cec7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eHX3CL)
The reel is operating smoothly, the drag is strong, and the levelwind works great. Thanks again Brett! 8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33988188848_fa4516eeb0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TMqmq1)
Perfectly done, Mike!
Best,
Fred
Hi
I have a 330GTI, never fished, that came with HT-100 drags. I have given it the Alan Tani's treatment and slapped Cal's grease on the drags. Works like a charm.
Thinking about loading it with 100# JB's solid braid and short 80# fluorcarbon leader for groupers or any other bottom fish.
Questions:
1. Is this a good reel for this purpose?
2. How much drag should I safely expect from this reel without causing damage to it?
Thank you
João
It'll work for small groupers but if your looking to hook into a good sized Red or Black Grouper & you have to have a levelwind then it would be better to move up to a 340 or 345. If you happen to hook into a Warsaw or a Golith your way undergunned. For big Grouper you don't need a levelwind just a 114, 114h, or a tanked 113h. The 330GTI makes a nice snapper reel. I wouldn't use more then a 50# leader.
ALan says in the 320 thread that the gears and frame are good for 20#s at most. I'd think you would be fine fishing it at 80#. The most important thing to doing it safe is properly lubed drags. Smooth is your friend.
Ron Jones
Thank you guys.
The biggest I expect around here may be a 50# grouper or a red snapper, at around 300ft of water depth.
João
Ahhhh yes, knew you would get her up and running! She found a good home...those catfish better beware!!!
Brett