here are the schematics......
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/340gt.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/340gt.pdf)
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/345gt.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/345gt.pdf)
and here is your reel. the spools are the same as size as the penn 113hl and 113hlw, respectively. they are not interchangeable because the spool shafts are different.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4173.JPG)
we are going to start by backing out all of the left side plate screws (key #'s 16 and 16A).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4174.JPG)
carefully remove the left side plate (key #27), leaving the levelwind assembly in place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4199.JPG)
remove the spool (key #29L) and set it aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4200.JPG)
find the bearing washer (key #153) and set it aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4201.JPG)
lube the right spool bearing (key #55).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4203.JPG)
lube the left spool bearing (key #40).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42021.JPG)
install the bearing washer (key #153), the spool (key #29L) and the left side plate (key #27). grease all the screw holes.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4175.JPG)
reinstall the left side plate screws (key #'s 16 and 16L).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42041.JPG)
lube the worm gear (key #42).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4205.JPG)
now, for the right side plate. remove the handle lock screw (key #110).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4177.JPG)
remove the handle assembly screw (key #23).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4178.JPG)
remove the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4179.JPG)
remove the tension spring (key #8) and star drag (key #10). i typically discard the spring.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4180.JPG)
ok, now this is important. see the gap here? the right side plate is actually two pieces, a right side OUTER plate (key #1) and a right side INNER plate (key #1B). to service the right side plate, you need to remove the outer plate and leave the inner plate in place. got it? good! ok, let's start!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4181.JPG)
remove the two long (key #31) and three short (key#38) right side plate screws. do not remove the spool tension control screw (key #26B) in the center or the eccentric screw (key #22).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4182.JPG)
carefully separate the outer plate from the inner plate.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4183.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4184.JPG)
if the gear sleeve (key #98S) is not badly burred, you can lift the gear cluster off in one piece. otherwise, you may have to pull the pieces off one at a time.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4185.JPG)
here is an exploded view of the gear cluster. going top left to bottom right, you have a fiber washer (key #4A), the 113h main gear (key #5), five 113h carbon fiber drag washers (key #6), five 113h metal washers (key #7), a belleville tension washer (key #18), a bearing washer (key #4), a bearing (key #55A), and another bearing washer (key #4).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4186.JPG)
to eliminate the sticking caused by the fiber washer (key #4A), we are going to substitute a penn ht-100 drag washer (part #6-855). i have noted that these washers will soon be in short supply. there is no problem using a #6-113H washer. and honestly, if you don't need the drag to be super smooth, you can even leave the original fiber washer in.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4187.JPG)
it is very important to properly service the gear sleeve bearing (key #55A). carefully remove the retaining rings and shields on both sides, pack the bearing with grease and replace the shields and retaining rings.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4188.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4189.JPG)
apply thick coat of cal's drag grease to each carbon fiber drag washer and rebuild the gear cluster.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4190.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4191.JPG)
place a small bead of grease in each screw hole.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4192.JPG)
carefully replace the right side outer plate (key #1) with the eccentric jack (key #11) in the "up" position and the eccentric lever (key #21) in the "back" or "free" position (not the "forward" or "in gear" position shown in the photo).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4193.JPG)
replace the long (key #31) and short (key #38) right side plate screws.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4194.JPG)
install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulder of the gear sleeve (key #98S) to properly install the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4195.JPG)
install the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4196.JPG)
install the handle assembly screw (key #23).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4197.JPG)
install the handle lock screw.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN41981.JPG)
and you're done!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4206.JPG)
now for a couple of comments. the 340 and 345 gti's are basically 113hl and 113hlw's with a graphite frame and a levelwind assembly. these frames do not seem to be the most sturdy frames in the world. i've seen several frames come in pretty badly loosened up. not a good thing for a level wind reel. seriously not a good thing for a 4/0 sized levelwind reel. and for a reel of this size, it would be easy to blow out the levelwind assembly if the line tried to go one way and the leveler tried to go the other, particularly if the drags had seized up. regarding 4/0 sized reels in general, most guys are moving away from straight monofilament because of the stretch. with 100 feet of mono either straight out or straight down, it's like fishing with a giant rubber band. spectra is really the way to go. for spectra, a 4/0 sized reel is waaaayyyyyyy too big. if mono is all you have access to and a graphite levelwind reel suits your needs, go with the penn 330, 340 or 345 gti. if you have access to spectra, go with the 320 gti or gt2. the 320's have the best power to weight ratio in this series.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Your instructions were VERY HELPFUL for getting the right side plate off. the reel I'm working on has a problem getting tinfo freespool. The eccentric jack (11) will slide some, lbut not all that it should, the eccentric jack (12) will move a little, but the pinion gear (13) is stuck on the spool shaft, stuck because of corrosion.
I put some corrosion x on the end of the shaft in the faint hope that it will penetrate and allos the gear to slide. no time to work on it more today, will get back to it next week. this is my first attempt to work on a reel, it's my son's reel. He went thru it when he got it, but I don't think it's been service in over a year now. Get's only a little use, mostly halibut in deeper water, so only a few times a year. He worked on my reels for a couple of years, but sine he's now a father and is working too many hours, the maintaining the Penn reels is up to me, so I'm starting to learn.
If you have suggestions for lubing the eccentric jack and the associated parts, I'd like to read them so this problem doesn't occur on the other 340's we use for deep water halibut.
Thanks for all the work you put into making the tutorials, I can see I'll be on this site a lot next winter.
ron m
pinion gears are very expensive, so let's take care not to damage it. have your son hold the spool upright. very carefully slide two screwdrivers underneath the pinion gear at opposite sides. now twist bothe screwdrivers clockwise, to apply even left to opposite sides of the pinion gear and evenly lift the pinion gear up. this will work. once, off, clean out the corrosion and reassemble the reel. good luck. alan
Can someone please tell me the max drag capacity of the penn 345GTI? Thanks!
Quote from: Clipper on May 31, 2015, 01:14:44 PM
Can someone please tell me the max drag capacity of the penn 345GTI? Thanks!
The fact the stack is very similar to a 113h, I would confidently say you could get 25lb of drag
Alan,
Here is your VERY INFORMATIVE TUTORIAL in PDF format for EASY DOWNLOADING ! ! !
thanks for doing this. i never learned how. ;D
Quote from: alantani on June 13, 2015, 12:55:31 AM
thanks for doing this. i never learned how. ;D
Alan,
You'll notice a few more PDF conversions I've done today popping up on the forum . . . I plan to do a lot more of them.
As for "HOW TO", that is REALLY SIMPLE . . .
PDF - "HOW TO"
(1) Highlight the Text & Photo's
(2) Copy Text & Photo's
(3) Open Microsoft WORD or whatever a MAC uses
(4) Select .5" narrow margins ( maximum room on page )
(5) Select vertical or horizontal orientation ( depends on your pics )
(6) Paste copied text & pics
(7) In UPPER LEFT corner ( in WORD ), click on "ROUND" icon and "Save As" a PDF file.
(8) SAVE the PDF to your COMPUTER
(9) Fire up ALANTANI.COM
(10) Make whatever post you want and ATTACH the PDF file
(11) Post to the Forum
(12) Repeat, as desiredTight Lines, Buddy ! ! !
Dave
I'm curious about these reels, looking at the schematics. The main and pinion are 113H. The gear sleeve is in multiple pieces, so the possibility of putting in a stainless steel sleeve seems very remote. There is no metal bridge, just the graphite inner plate, which is a little scary.
What is unique about this is the high capacity with a level-wind. Keeping in mind the vulnerability of a level-wind, this reel might be appropriate for deep-drop bottom fishing. Wouldn't a level-wind would make bringing in 300+ yards of line a little less tedious? The stock gear ration is 3.25:1 which is slow for fishing deep, but since the gears are 113H, it should be possible to use the aftermarket 4:1 gears, right?
The 340's don't go cheaply at auction. Someone must be using them. Just thinking...
A ton of guys use them here in BC for halibut and bottom fish (more use the 330 though). The bearing on the sleeve is almost always seized or just brown powder. They do well with regular service though. I think AKFISH said they see a lot of them used in Alaska for the same purpose.
Cheers:
Todd
I have two I've had for ten years and never used; I bought them for the International rods they were on. I think it's like anything else- use in it's intended app. i use my 330's extensively, as much as i use any reel i have, trolling leadcore for stripers. the 36lb main and shock not pass through the levelwind cleanly vs. 309. Sure they are 25 yo technology before braid but good if you have them.
i would not have a great deal of confidence in them. too many soft parts to wiggle loose. :-\
If anyone ever needs a replacement spool for a 345GTI, I have a pristine one . . . Shoot me an email : Ez2cDave@aol.com
Tight Lines !
Hi Alan, It has been awhile since my last contact with you. This is what retirement does. Time to fix stuff!
I'm working on a 340gti and saw your comment regarding discarding the tension spring. Do you replace it with another one or just go without one?
Thanks,
Tom
either way really doesn't matter, but i usually just leave them out.
Quote from: alantani on December 28, 2018, 05:03:16 PM
i would not have a great deal of confidence in them. too many soft parts to wiggle loose. :-\
I agree with this about the 340 and 345 low profile made in the USA. Looks like the Chinese produced versions have a full cage frame that appears much stronger.I have only seen the Chinese version in photos. Does anyone have any experience with the Chinese version? Hate to think made in China could be better but it looks like it to me from the pictures.
I am a huge fan of the new, Chinese 66 stand. SS and very well machined. QA is still Penn and technology keeps marching on.
Ron Jones
Ron why do you call it a 66 ?
I recently replaced clicker pins, pawl, springs and button. Greased it all up and reassembled. After one day of light use the clicker button seems loose and the clicker noise is muffled. If I hold the clicker button in place the clicker sounds strong again. What do I need to do to rectify this problem?
Quote from: drlfc on August 21, 2022, 11:16:18 AMI recently replaced clicker pins, pawl, springs and button. Greased it all up and reassembled. After one day of light use the clicker button seems loose and the clicker noise is muffled. If I hold the clicker button in place the clicker sounds strong again. What do I need to do to rectify this problem?
not enough downward pressure, which is going to be of zero help to you right now. it's likely that any one of several parts are worn and need to be replaced. it's not my favorite design..... :-\
Ok...go on. Which "several parts" are you thinking. I have a several of these reels all with the same problem.
start by checking the click tongue for wear.
I replaced the clicker tongue as well. Sorry, I left that replaced part off my initial post. What's next?
this should be your clicker assembly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42021.JPG)
it's possible that you need new springs, key #62A. i've just never seen that as a problem. the click wheel on the left side of the spool never gets worn out because it's metal. here is the schematic for the gt2.
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/340gt.pdf
the gt2 is the same.
http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/images/pennparts/schematics/340gt2.pdf
i'm wondering if you are looking for more noise than is intended. is it that quiet? it might actually be possible to place two springs on each side to increase the tension. just not sure if there is rook for two springs.
If anyone need a spool for a 345GTI, I have a pristine one for $25.00, plus shipping.
They are $42.00 at Mystic Reel Parts https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/29L-345.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/29L-345.aspx)
My email address is Ez2cDave@aol.com
Tight Lines !
Dave F.