here's a link to the schematic....
http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/500.pdf (http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/500.pdf)
and here is your old friend.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0482.JPG)
did you ever wonder that this little screw was for? back out this take apart thumb screw (key #42), lift the screw up slightly, and twist the entire right side plate counterclockwise. it comes right off!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0483.JPG)
you now have three pieces.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0484.JPG)
let's grease the left side plate screws (key #32 and 39). back out each one, one at a time, grease the screw hole and zip the screw back in.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0486.JPG)
apply grease to the click tongue (key #35) and click spring (key #62). add corrosion x to the left side bushing (key #40).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0487.JPG)
back out each one of the right side plate screws (key #31 and 38), one at a time, grease the screw holes, and zip the screws back in.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0488.JPG)
grease the inside of the left side ring and wipe off the excess.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0489.JPG)
re-install the spool and set the assembly aside.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0490.JPG)
now for the right side plate assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0491.JPG)
remove the handle lock screw (key #23a), the handle screw (key #23), the handle (key #24) and the star drag wheel (key #10).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0492.JPG)
back out the four bridge screws (key #16 and 17) but leave them in place!!!!!!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0493.JPG)
the bridge assembly is now loose underneath. imagine your hand is a small crane. lift the right side plate (key #1) straight up, move it straight over to a safe place, and set it straight down without tipping it over. resist the temtation to look underneath. for now....
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0494.JPG)
carefully line up all the components of the drag stack and bridge assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0495.JPG)
ok, now it's decision time. on the right, you see a brand new stock brass gear sleeve ($6). on the left is a brand new pete kolekar stainless steel gear sleeve ($15). in the middle is the original stock brass gear sleeve and it's trashed! i only recommend a stainless steel gear sleeve if you INTEND to exceed 8 pounds of drag.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0496.JPG)
here's how the trashed gear sleeve fits in the handle. you can see how much play it has.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0497.JPG)
here's the new brass gear sleeve. not to bad, but there's still a little play.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0498.JPG)
here's the stainless steel gear sleeve.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0499.JPG)
using a small punch, remove the brass retaining pin.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0500.JPG)
pull the old gear sleeve, clean up the the bridge and lube it up with corrosion x.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0501.JPG)
install the new gear sleeve and retaining pin.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0502.JPG)
done.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0503.JPG)
i like to replace the fiber washer (key #4) with the drag washer from the black side plate penn 4/0 senator 113. this drag washer (part #6-113) has the same inner and outer dimensions as the long beach washer (part #6-60), but it's thicker. i use this washer under the gears of many reels using the jigmaster gear sleeve (part #98-60).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0504.JPG)
grease up the rest of the drag washers and install them with the metal washers. make sure the metal washers are alternating "slotted - keyed - slotted."
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0505.JPG)
because the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #8).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0506.JPG)
now, your side plate is still sitting there, quiet and undisturbed.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0507.JPG)
cover the bridge screws with your left index and middle fingers so the screws do not fall out.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0508.JPG)
ok, NOW you can look at the guts of the side plate.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0509.JPG)
remove the pinion gear (key #13), lube the right side bushing (key #26) with corrosion x, and put the pinion gear back.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0510.JPG)
the bridge/main gear assembly goes straight in. no muss, no fuss. pinch everything together, zip down the four bridge screws and you're done!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0511.JPG)
did you say something?
huh? what was that? what accident? what do you mean, you had a little accident? how many pieces?
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0512.JPG)
ok, look, it's not that bad. first, let's line everything up. see, that looks better already!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0513.JPG)
first is the eccentric (key #19) and eccentric spring (key #20).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0514.JPG)
grease it up a little and stick it back in the hole.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0515.JPG)
stick the eccentric lever (key #21) back on....
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0516.JPG)
and bolt it down with the eccentric screw (key #22).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0517.JPG)
stick a screwdriver blade under the spring to lift it up a little, then grab it with the needle nose pliers.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0518.JPG)
crank the tip of the spring HARD and stick it into the slot of the side plate. the lever should now snap back and forth sharply.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0519.JPG)
now for the bridge screws (key #16 and 17). note that two are threaded all the way up and down, and two are threaded only at the end. the clutch springs (key #18) ride up and down on the bridge screws with the short threads.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0520.JPG)
short threads on top, long threads on bottom.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0521.JPG)
two fingers over the bridge screws, flip over the side plate and install the clutch springs (key #18). oh, and lube the right side plat bushing (key #26) if you haven't already.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0522.JPG)
install the pinion yoke (key #12) and the pinion gear (key #13) as a unit.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0523.JPG)
shimmy the eccentric jack into position. you may need needle nose pliers to snap it into position.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0524.JPG)
make sure the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) are in proper position.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0525.JPG)
snap it together.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0526.JPG)
bolt it down. take a moment now to make sure the free spool lever and anti-reverse mechanism work.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0527.JPG)
install the spacing sleeve (key #9).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0528.JPG)
install the star drag wheel (key #10) and screw it down as far as it will go. don't skip this step.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0529.JPG)
install the handle (key #24) and handle screw (key #23). turn the handle screw down until it seats, the crank it around HARD until the handle screw has rotated one or two slots and line up the slot with hole for the handle lock screw. now install the handle lock screw (key #23a).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0530.JPG)
line up the side plate with the left side plate ring, push the side plate down, then turn it clockwise until the take apart thumb screw "clicks." turn the screw down and you're done! congratulations.!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0531.JPG)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Quote from: Ghostboy
With all of the elite reels being offered on today market, is there a better deal that compares to the Penn 500 a $60 dollar outfit? This reel has been a proven fish killer since the early 70's - Ghostboy!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_17_03_09_9_02_41.gif)
there is a pretty large gap between the spool and the inner side plate rings. anything less than 0.022 inches can get stuck or even sliced off. that means 25 pound test berkeley big game can still get caught. i generally recommend 30# mono. that works out fine because the reel will hold 350 yards of 30# mono. what it also means is that the reel is probabably not suitable for spectra.
any other reel with a spool this big might be loaded with up to 400 yards of 65 pound spectra and a 40 or 50 pound topshot. a 30% drag setting would mean a 12 to 15 pound drag setting. the 3-stack of jigmaster drag washers actually can deliver 15 pounds of drag, but that's pretty much the limit for any stack of three drag washers. the brass drive shaft (gear sleeve) is also a big issue. if the drags are set to more then 8 pounds, or if they are sticky at all, the handle will round off the top of the soft brass and start to loosen. i have a stainless steel drive shaft for this reel and it's a great upgrade if you're going to lean hard on this reel, but it cost $20.
one GREAT advantage of the jigmaster 500 is that there are no bearings to rust out. the reel that i recommend most for the kayak guys is a narrow spool penn 501 with a stainless steel drive shaft, greased carbon fiber drag washers, a penn jigmaster power handle and 200 yards of straight 30# mono. personally, i think this is the best kayak reel around. alan
Quote from: socaljason;1376464Hi Guys, Been watching these boards for years. Lots of good info in here. Here's the deal; My old man has a penn 501 and 506HS sitting in his garage. I'm thinking about fixing them up with an accurate frame, handle upgrade, and new drags. I know there are better ways to spend my money but I'd like to give these old dogs another shot at glory. I know the main differences; The 506HS has bearings, finer thread on the star drag, etc. but I havent opened the hood fully yet. My question is -- are the drags the same on both reels? Or does one model have the potential for more drag than the other? My old man doesnt think the drags are suitable for anything more than 20lb line. I'm hoping to put 25lb-30lb line on one if the drags can handle it. I appreciate the input. Cheers,
so here's what i would do with a stock 505HS. the narrow frame actually works pretty well. being narrow it is less prone to being torqued. let's fish it as is and then maybe decide later if you want to upgrade the frame or not. i think you will be pleasantly surprised.
casting distance is greatly improved if you can crack open the bearings and clean out the drag washers. i would leave them open so that they don't retain water. lube them with anything you want. if you haven't tried the xtreme reel +, check it out. pretty impressive stuff.
anything more then 7-8 pounds of drag can damage the top of the brass gear sleeve. for what you do, a stainless steel gear sleeve will be very helpful. i've got a bunch, and so does mysticparts.com.
the stock ht-100 #6-309 drag washers for the penns are fine. i also have a ground down #6-113 that i put underneath the main gear. i'm going to have to start adding that to all the gear sleeve that i send out. i know that smoothdrag.com has a carbontex drag set for the jigmaster, but i do not know what the dimensions are for the drag washer under the main gear. naturally, add cal's grease to either one.
the stock 5:1 penn 505 main gear is made of brass. the teeth are pretty fine and this gear will shred under high drag settings or sticky drag. newell has a 5:1 main gear make of stainless steel. stick with your stock penn gears for now and switch them out if you have problems later. if you are ok with a 4:1 gear ratio, you can use the main and pinion gear set for the jigmaster 500. fyi, you actually can fit the 505 high speed gears in a 500 but you have to do some drilling and grinding.
lastly, the handle. penn makes a jigmaster power handle that works fine. i also have a stainless steel arm that fits nicely. i also have several handle grips. the 4/0 kolekar may seem large, but you'll be glad you have it if you hook up on something big!
Quote
Hi Alan, I need your opinion on why my newly acquired old Penn Jigmaster 500 won't go into freespool. This reel was completely taken apart, cleaned and put back together following your directions and photos. It seems to have a stainless steel bridge, eccentric jack and main gear. The pinion moves as it should when the eccentric lever is switched on and off. The pinion is essentially flush with the bridge when the lever is in "off". I've attached the photos to show this. There is NO the telltale click of the spool engaging when the lever is switched from off to on. The only way I can get this reel to go into freespool is if I loosen the left side bearing almost all the way but then the spool is wobbly and the line will catch between the spool and frame. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Peter
(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_26_09_09_3_23_03_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_26_09_09_3_23_06_1.jpeg)
i see the problem. the eccentric jack is not properly "grabbing" the eccentric. the "tab" that reaches around and grabs the post of the eccentric is bent "up." what's happening is that the eccentric jack is not traveling far enough. does this make sense?
Quote
Its all fixed with your help Alan. Thanks. It was the eccentric jack. the hook arm was slightly bent out. the final result had the pinion retracted a few mm inside of the bridge when the lever is at off.
Thanks again
Peter
Quote
HI Alan, I live and fish in Ireland,mostly deep sea and have been a lifetime user of Penn reels (made in USA models only!) I have recently found your website having read many of your very informative articles on reel repair and was wondering if you could possibly help me. I wish to upgrade a Penn 112h from 4:1 to 5:1 gear ratio using Newell gears. I have tried everywhere,Charkbait, Internet, Newells etc without success and was hoping that you may be able to point me in the right direction where I may obtain a Newell Mod Kit for this reel. Now that winter has set in here and the boat fishing has ended I am about to service quite a lot of my own and my friends reels and was looking forward to a little project on my 112h. Kind regards, Tom
greetings, tom! the newell 5:1 gear sets are still available. newell is very difficult to deal with. if you wish, i could try to get a gear set and ship it to you. i might even be able to find a set locally. please be aware that they are quite expensive.
you also have another option, but it is not as reliable. penn still has a 5:1 gear set available for the discontinued jigmaster 505/506 high speed. you have to drill out the pinion gear to accomodate the larger 500 spool shaft, you also have to file the inside of the pinion gear where it engages the "shoulders" of the spool shaft. once the pinion gear is modified, you're all set. the main gear drops right in! understand that the softer brass teeth of the penn main gear will shred if you place them under too great a load. the softer penn main gear is quieter, but the teeth are not as strong. the newell 5:1 gear set is stronger, but much nosier and more expensive. alan
Quote
Hi Alan, Thank you very much for such a quick reply to my query re Newell 5:1 gears and for your kind offer to source a set for me. I was not aware that the Jigmaster 505/506 gears could be modified to suit the 112h and shall contact my Penn service engineer in England to see if he has these in stock. I would be capable of modifying the pinion myself as per your instructions and as the reel shall not be under too much pressure the Jigmaster gears may be OK for what I need. Once again thank you so much and I shall keep you informed as to how this project progresses and may take up your offer re the Newell gears if I cannot source the Jigmaster gears over here. I thoroughly enjoy reading your very informative,detailed and beautifully illustrated reel repair Tutorials and found the Shimano one most helpful last week when repairing a Trinidad TN16. Kind regards, Tom.
Quote
Hi Alan, Just spoke to my Penn rep. in England. He was surprised to learn that the 505/506hs gears could be modified to fit the 112h,and when I explained what you advised me to do he was in total agreement. He has one new set in stock which he is mailing me today. (The Luck of the Irish!) Thanks for your assistance Alan and I shall let you know how the modification works. Kind regards, Tom.
great! a note of caution. any amount of damage to the teeth of the pinion gear will echo throughout the entire reel. even the slightest nick will be noticeable. to hold the pinion gear securely, place the pinion gear between two pieces of very soft wood, then place everything in a vise. use a drill press to drill a hole that is just slightly larger than the spool shaft. you should then be able to slide the pinion gear over the spool shaft. you will find that the pinion gear does not "seat" properly over the "shoulders" at the base of the spool shaft. your next step is to remove the collar at the base of the pinion gear, then carefully file inside notch of the pinion gear so that it is wide enough to fit over the shoulders at the base of the spool shaft. put the collar back on and you should be all set! do not file down the shoulders of the spool shaft. someday you may wish to go back to a 4:1 gear ratio.
now, you do understand that the teeth of the 5:1 penn main gear are not as strong as the teeth of the 5:1 penn main gear, right? the high speed penn 505/506 HS reels were in part discontinued because of this problem. alan
Quote
Hi Alan ,
Many thanks for your email and advice on modifying the 5:1 pinion gear to fit the 112h. The gears arrived today (before I recieved your email) and I set about dismantling the 112h to compare the two sets of gears. I noticed that the 5:1 pinion was very "light" looking compared with the 4;1 pinion. However it fitted the spool shaft ok as the bore was identical to the 112h pinion. The main differences being,A- a 1/8" deep counterbore was required in the new pinion gear to clear the left hand side plate bearing. This was achieved by counterboring a clearance hole in the pinion gear x 1/8"deep and checking that it was OK on the left hand sideplate with the bearing fitted. B- The only other problem I encountered was that the chrome plated brass collar at base of the pinion gear would not pass over the "shouldered" large diameter spindle where it protruded from the reel spool. I removed the collar and using a fine half round needle file made two diametrically opposite clearance "steps" on the bore of the collar to clear the spool shaft. I refitted the collar to the pinion gear and everything looks ok, at the moment!
You are quite right regarding the Penn 5:1 gears. I don't think they shall take too much abuse so I still have the old gears standing by in case it all goes wrong. It is an interesting little project which has occupied my mind for sometime now and I look forward to trying the reel out when I get a chance.
Like yourself Alan I enjoy working at reels particularly the Penns which are great work horses and having spares readily available is a real bonus. How much longer this situation shall prevail is anyones guess now that so many Penn reels are made in China.
I found your extensive workshop tool display most interesting and was wondering if you have come across a split end screwdriver which is invaluable for holding those small Penn handle "Lock Screws" part No 23a which secures the "Handle Screw" part No 23.
They are made in the USA ie "Quick-Wedge" original series part No 1253 item No 63002.
Well Alan, very many thanks for taking the time and offering me lots of valuable help and advice on solving my reel problems you are indeed a gentleman.
Kind regards,
Tom.
Allan,
Are the Newell gear sets still available? I am looking for two (2) sets to finish my Jigmaster "System Pack".
The gears are available at Charkbait. $25.00
here's the link. about most of the way down.
http://www.charkbait.com/cs/csrn.htm
good luck,
Steve-O
Quote from: Steve-O on December 04, 2010, 04:13:08 PM
The gears are available at Charkbait. $25.00
here's the link. about most of the way down.
http://www.charkbait.com/cs/csrn.htm
good luck,
Steve-O
This was the last response that I received from Charkbait back in May.
"Hi Larry
The Newell 5 to 1 gears are not available and have not been for months. Would you like to switch to something else or cancel the order? Please let me know and I will take care of it for you. Thank you"
Don't think that this has changed but I did send them an email. :(
the 5:1 gear set for the penn 505 jigmaster is still available. you have to drill out the pinion gear to fit the larger spool shaft of the plain 500 jigmaster. the main gear works fine. which reminds me, i need to order a few sets. alan
Quote from: alantani on December 04, 2010, 08:27:15 PM
the 5:1 gear set for the penn 505 jigmaster is still available. you have to drill out the pinion gear to fit the larger spool shaft of the plain 500 jigmaster. the main gear works fine. which reminds me, i need to order a few sets. alan
Hi Alan,
Are they brass gear sets?
Reminds me, I need a couple of 2/0 handles if you think of it.
]
Hi Alan,
Are they brass gear sets?
Reminds me, I need a couple of 2/0 handles if you think of it.
[/quote]
S/steel Pinion,brass Main.
Talk about an easy rebuild! Alan, my 13yo son got a kick out of your comments in your rebuild.
"did you say something? huh? what was that? what accident? what do you mean, you had a little accident? how many pieces?"
I thought I'd just go ahead and fully clean a newly aquired 501 after seeing the low number of parts and the simple process.
I've never pulled a reel apart on my own and rebuild it.
I'm glad I did after seeing worn drags and the insides soaked with what I'm guessing was WD40, fish scales, and a graphite lube.
It came out great. The guts got cleaned with carb cleaner and the side plates sprayed out with simple green.
With some reading here and a little care package from Dawn, I have four more to rebuild in the near future and
I'm just kicking myself for paying someone to work on my star drag reels for years. After opening a few of them up and seeing what was done to them, I think I wasted my money.
Thanks for all the great reading and reviews. -gary
don't feel bad about paying someone else. we've got to keep the economy going! so jigmasters are now being made in china. they are making many of the parts out of stainless steel. it is probably not the highest quality stainless, but it's way better then chrome over brass!
I never feel bad about paying someone for a service as long as that service is provided.
It's when it does not get done because all the evidence is hiding on the inside and will not be seen.
Searching online and fiunding your site and reading a few of the rebuilds, I thought it didn't look all that hard.
So after having one of my reel serviced recently (where I've been going for years) and not yet fishing it yet, I opened it.
What I found were my drags not changed as I requested or any manner or cleaning inside. :-\
I know I can't expect a spick and span spotless cleanng service like one would do on there own gear, but
doing nothing really opened my eyes, closed my wallet, and I rolling up my sleeves. Besides it's fun ;D
The 2 speeds and levers I'll send to you for now Alan. -g
Ok Gary we're glad you're having a good time working on reels, now go ahead and crack that Battle open, we want to see what it looks like on the inside. You should have enough confidence by now ;D
Quote from: Gman_WC on April 26, 2011, 03:42:28 PMThe 2 speeds and levers I'll send to you for now Alan. -g
Once you go through a 2-speed or Lever Drag Reel, it will become as second nature as doing a star drag reel. It takes 1.5-3 hours the first time to do depending on the complexity, but you will get it. Just keeps the schematics at hand, and if there's a similar tutorial, you will be just fine. If not, there's always all of us and Alan to assist, even if it comes in a plastic ziplok bags.
Quote from: alantani on December 04, 2010, 08:27:15 PM
the 5:1 gear set for the penn 505 jigmaster is still available. you have to drill out the pinion gear to fit the larger spool shaft of the plain 500 jigmaster. the main gear works fine. which reminds me, i need to order a few sets. alan
Ok Alan, you make it sound so easy and don't realize that most of us are not master craftsman
like yourself. I have to know(if you don't mind) how you drill out the pinion and what type of tool do you use.
Bryan has seen the garage. It's far from "master" status. I lock the pinion gear in with two pieces of wood in a vise. Then I match up a drill bit to the spool shaft diameter and drill away. I have extra pinion gears and can drill one out for you. Got a couple of extra main gears as well. Alan
I don't need one Alan thank you! I just wanted to know how you did it, this is a good thing to know. I'm always amazed by you. Thanks! Sal ;)
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 26, 2011, 04:30:03 PM
Ok Gary we're glad you're having a good time working on reels, now go ahead and crack that Battle open, we want to see what it looks like on the inside. You should have enough confidence by now ;D
Sal, The Battle's just killing you! ;D I'll try and open it up soon and take some pictures for you and the intrested.
My old Penn's and the hockey play off's are taking up a lot of my free time :D
-gary
Quote from: Gman_WC on April 28, 2011, 01:38:00 AM
Sal, The Battle's just killing you! ;D I'll try and open it up soon and take some pictures for you and the intrested.
My old Penn's and the hockey play off's are taking up a lot of my free time :D
-gary
Thanks Gary, just take your time when you do it, I don't want to be blamed if you screw it up ;D ;D ;D
Note to NuBs: This reel coupled with Alan's tutorial, is without a doubt the simplest take apart and rebuild. Come on, you know you have one. Check the basement, boat, garage or even your trunk. This reel has stood the test of time. It is an engineering marvel. Simple in design and function. If you have one, do the rebuild. It will lead you to the addiction which most on this site have.
I wish I had done this reel years ago. I began with an ambassadeur SM6600clw, about eight months ago, never looked back. Slightly complicated for a first timer. But, Alan convinced me to do it on my own. And, assisted with the answers when I was stumped.
The jigmaster 500; on the other hand is, what I'd consider, a beginner's dream. Go for it. You'll be glad you did. And, welcome to the highly addictive world of reel repair.
This site is incredible, fascinating and second to none! Thanks Alan!
This tutorial is where I got my feet wet and now have been looking forward to servicing my own reels. I've tackled my Daiwa Sealine and my girlfriends Okuma Classic, although after many pm's to Alan and getting a problem sorted out she won't let me touch her Saltist LW, oh well. This whole site is awesome, and a ginormous thank you to Alan for making this site and helping us figure out which way is up.
Well Alan with your help my jigmaster I have had for 40 years is in better shape
than it ever has been ... 8)
I could hardly get it apart as over the years the bakelite swelled to the point of not
being able to put it back together so there it sat on the workbench ... :-[
I got a bright idea to take my dremel tool and put a fine sanding drum on it and
run it around and around the inner surface of the handle side ring ...
2 sanding drums later it went together better than it was new , no more chrome but now it
was able to be removed and put back together again ...
I put new drag washers and resurfaced the main gear bottom with 1000 wet and dry on
my granite block , I used the original gear as to my surprise it was made of steel ... :o
I also replaced the gear sleeve that was hammered with a stainless one and put a new
anti-reverse dog and spring on for good measure ...
I don't think I would have attempted this if I had not found your tutorial on my reel ...
Thanks for putting my old Penn 500 back on line ... You guys ROCK !!!
Regards , Barney Barnwell ...
Barney, those are mighty fine words, and now you are one of us...look in the mirror. Helping others is contageous.
like mike tyson said!its better to give than recieve.
Alan, I got you care package today.
I sat down after dinner to upgrade a stock 501 into a Tiburon frame with SS gear sleeve and
power handle. Everything was going great and I had the drag stack changed and drags regreased.
Then...Boing, there goes my tiny dog spring into the bowels of the garage workbench.
Where can I buy a spring this small to cut to size?
Almost a perfect night.
-g
no, let me drop one into the mail tomorrow morning.
Thanks Alan, What a guy.
I've got to say that the little silver Tiburon frame
makes the 501 a tuff looking little reel.
I"ll post a before and after pic's when it's done.
Thanks again -gary
After some greased carbon fiber drags, a SS gear sleave, and the Tiburon frame,
the 501 is now ready to party in Baja on schoolie dorado.
Here is the before and after.
Thanks Alan. -g
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f134/gkolokousis/Reel501005.jpg)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f134/gkolokousis/Reel501004.jpg)
Nice looking reel Gary, looks like Alan hooked you up with some nice parts. I hope you enjoy it for many years, take care, Sal
nice job!!!!!!!!!
Hi all,
I got a set of Newell 5:1 S/S gears for my 500 and was found that the pinion doesn't fit (as per the earlier posts re: the Penn upgrade gears).
For whatever reason, I thought the Newell kit would slot right in.
It fits on the spool shaft fine, but doesn't fit over the right-side bearing, nor does it fit over the shoulders of the spool shaft.
I assume that only option is to slip the collar off and open out the gap on the top of the pinion, then expand the ID about 1/8th of an inch down into the pinion with a drill press to accommodate the bearing.
Before I start butchering this beautifully made kit, is there anything other insight/advice I should consider?
Cheers, Justin
Hey Justin, may I ask where you got that kit from? I've heard of mismatched sets before. The 5:1 newell kit for the Jigmaster should fit right in. Was your Jigmaster assembled before you decided to upgrade, or did you have the parts laying aroud. Another possibility could be that have the wrong spool :-\.
Thanks Sal - I hadn't considered that.
Panama picked it up for me direct from Newell (thanks again mate!).
I built the reel out of parts, but had matched red side-plates and gears - now in one of Alan's Tiburon frames.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_06_08_17_3_15_13_20384763.jpeg)
The spool has the 500 part number on it and the Newell pinion also doesn't fit on the right-side bearing (tube), which made me think perhaps it was a 505 set.
I'll tear it down again tonight and recheck all the part numbers.
I think I've got a 505 spool in stock, so I'll try the gear on that.
I'll also hold off on any alterations until I get to the bottom of it all - 'measure twice, cut once' as they say...
Thanks again for the input.
Justin
The spool gear clicker racket on a non aluminum jig master spool has come off. How can I fix this?
Hi Alan, thank you for the great detail provided in this post. I have two 500's that I'm going to clean up. One has been "serviced" once, the other never, and respectively have been fished about 25 and 15 times. We'll see what they look like when I open them up. I'm excited to learn to do this on my own. I noticed the schematic link from page one no longer works, do you have another link? I ordered two sets of carbontex washers from smoothdrag, Cal's grease and I have Penn oil and Penn grease. Do you think I'm ready to go, or do I really need the corrosion X too? I live in Phx, AZ so I don't think rust is an issue. Thanks.
G'day AZ,
The schematic is available here (ie 500L): http://www.pennreels.com/exp_views/conv/500L.pdf (http://www.pennreels.com/exp_views/conv/500L.pdf)
Or here for the earlier 500 model: http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/pdf/Penn/Product%20Diagrams/500.pdf (http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/pdf/Penn/Product%20Diagrams/500.pdf)
The 500 doesn't have ball bearings, so a drop of your Penn oil on either end of the spool shaft (or straight into either bearer cup) should do the trick.
CorrosionX and/or ReelX are top-quality products, however, and certainly worth having on hand...
Good luck!
Justin
Hi Red: thanks for the reply and link. I probably should have mentioned, even though I live in AZ, all of the fishing done on these reels has been offshore. Mostly 2day trips from SD. Don't know if that amount of exposure is enough to cause rust?
all it takes is a little left over salt from "that last trip last year!"
Ok, so I opened both of them up and following your tutorial was easy and took less time than I imagined a few episodes of Fri Nite Lights and 24 and I was done, or so I might be. I didn't have an accident as you describe, so I didn't lube those parts of the reel. Would it be a better idea to have the "accident" and lube all those parts? Also, I could not find anything small enough with enough ummph to pop out the retaining pin of the sleeve. So that part of the reel remains untouched too. One reel looked really good on the inside, the washers looked good, but I still switched them out with "carbontex" ones I purchased. The sleeve looks good, etc.... The other reel was not so clean, green spots here and there, which confuses me because I associate that color with copper....So those two aspects of the tutorial I didn't do, is it imperative to do? These are 500L's and about 5 & 3 years old.
The drag feels considerably better than it did-I guess "smoothdrag" is apt :)
If you do take them apart like an "accident" then you can inspect them all and give all parts a very light coat of grease for protection. The parts greased for lubrication are mostly just the gears, drag washers, eccentric and jack. Don't overdo it, though. The rest just get a light touch for protection. You're right on the green gunk meaning copper (brass). Most parts are brass-based and may have a nickel plating. If there's green, there's corrosion of the brass. Clean those parts well. Brasso, steel wool, whatever.
The gear sleeve retaining pin takes a little force sometimes to get it started out. Try pushing it out from both sides. If you can get it started with an old ball point pen or a small nail or tack then you should be able to grab it with needlenose pliers and pull it out. Once the gear sleeve comes off I like to clean the post and the inside of the sleeve well and give the post a few drops of ReelX or CorrosionX before the sleeve goes back on.
Carbontex! 8) Great stuff!
Rob
Is this a collectable Penn reel?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230660306833&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1156
beautiful reel. i don't know about being a collector's item just yet, but it certainly will be someday!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/5/1_19_08_11_1_42_37.jpeg)
Only 50 Euro!?!?!?!?!?!?! (About $50) You should buy that reel. I have a few of them, both converted 505 and original 506 that I fish. They go for about 60 in used condition around here and are hard to come by.
Anthony
It's £50 ($82) I am seriously thinking of making an bid.Am looking at a brand new 501 for £40 ($66) with the lower 4:1 gearing which I would actually use in the boat. Don't know if I could keep a good reel on the shelf and not fish with it. ;)
I would like love to get my hands on a new-in-the-box 506 for $82USD! :o :o
I have settled for the new 501. I can place bid on the 506 for you norcal if you wish. Don't know what the shipping charge would be from the UK to you. Check it out, auction finishes soon and I am fishing tomorrow (Sunday.)
Quote from: Irish Jigger on August 20, 2011, 09:00:08 PM
I have settled for the new 501. I can place bid on the 506 for you norcal if you wish. Don't know what the shipping charge would be from the UK to you. Check it out, auction finishes soon and I am fishing tomorrow (Sunday.)
From what I can get from UPS is that shipping cost would be prohibitive (150+ euros). All I can get are rates for express service - their site is so bloody unfriendly. >:(
Thank you for the offer, but I better pass on this one. :)
Rob
Sorry about that Rob. I have had reels off ebay shipped from the US to UK for about $25, don't know what the cost is the other way. I will let you know if I ever come across another new 506.
Rob, here's a nice little 501 on your side of the pond.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350485266289?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3736wt_1140
Ok, i've got one for you guys... I've searched (everywhere!) but I can't seem to find the answer...
I've got at least one or two jigmasters that I would LOVE to changes out the thumb screw. At least one has lost the spring etc...
I see that on pennparts, you can order the screw assembly, but when you look at the picture, it looks different compared to the older red plated jigmasters.
Does anyone know how hard/easy this is, and if I can use the new thumbscrew assembly with an older jigmaster?? Any help is really appreciated!!
it's ver simple. go ahead and order up all the parts. it will screw together easily. alan
G'day fishny,
I've replaced several (on both old and new versions) and had no problems - they're all interchangeable.
The collar that holds the spring in place simply screws off, so you may chose to just replace the spring (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/131-200.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/131-200.aspx)) and collar (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/132-200.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/132-200.aspx)).
Hope that helps, Justin
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackles old online store over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
I've got a couple of questions about Jigmasters. First of all, is there any other gearset that fits the 505/506 reels or am I stuck with the stock gears? I also read somewhere on this site about upgrading the drags to a 1+5 configuration but can't seem to find it now. I'm currently building a 506 (Tib frame, etc) to fit either a calstar 700L or a Seeker 970-7, once I decide which is the best fit.
the 4:1 penn gear set works. the pinion gear is a little loose, but it actually works just fine. the newell 5:1 gear set is better, but it's very expensive. i'd have to fiddle with the drag washers, but i'm certain a "1+5" drag configuration is possible. it just would not add that much to the reel. you would have to use the softer manganese/bronze alloy penn 5:1 main gear, that that gear tends to strip out at more than 10 pounds of drag anyway. the only way to make it work would be a taller stainless steel main gear. i'll bet that newell could make it.........
I recently picked up a 501 jigmaster at a flea market for $5.00. The reel has a red alum spool . Does anyone know what the significance of the red spool is ? Is it the same as the regular alum spool ? I ordered Alan's stainless steel gear sleve for it and was worried that I would have to spend more for a new spool which are hard to come by and expensive. I will be using 30 pound test mono on it for blue fish and stripped bass. Any help appreciated Doug
Hey Doug, you got yourself a heck of a deal. The red aluminum spool was introduced by Penn for their 50th anniversary, what you have there is rare, it was only in production for a couple of years, around 1982/83. If the spool is in good shape and you wanted to get rid of it, I can offer you $25 for it....I collect those. 30 pound mono is a good call, that's how my Jigmasters are set up. Fish that reel around 10 pounds and it will happy there. Good luck to you. Sal
Hey Sal Thanks for the response. I feel a little better now. The reel looks new ,it has a few spots on the underside of the stand. the insides look hardly used The original penn greese has hardened. I will try to give it the Alan treatment. The last deal I got at a sale wound up costing me almost $100 to fix , it was a penn 1/0 senator I picked up for $15 but had all sorts of problems ,you know once you start to fix these , things can get out of hand quickly. Thanks again Doug
Does anyone know the part number for the PENN powerhandle that fits the Jigmaster? Thanks!
The two I like the best are: 24-55 and 24-56, with 24-56 my first choice.
Thanks ... I like the 24-56 best also... appreciate the info!!!
- RustyTank
i bought a bunch of the 24-56 handles at $15 each years ago and still have some. send a pm if interested. thanks! alan
Anybody know what purpose this attachment serves?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Penn-Aftco-H-PS-1-Reel-Handle-assembly-113-Jigmaster-Squidder-NEW-4-0-USA-/310348856352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48423bbc20#ht_1747wt_954
Quote from: Irish Jigger on January 11, 2012, 07:56:26 PM
Anybody know what purpose this attachment serves?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Penn-Aftco-H-PS-1-Reel-Handle-assembly-113-Jigmaster-Squidder-NEW-4-0-USA-/310348856352?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48423bbc20#ht_1747wt_954
It looks like a device that would limit the travel of a drag star to keep one from over-tightening or over-loosening the drag. ??? In other words, a thingamajig for your whatchamacallit. ;D
It is made by Aftco and they're no longer produced. I've seen them on ebay before. it's used to preset the drag and to increase from strike to fight (and vice versa). It kinda turns it into a lever drag.
Really not worth the money. That's why it's been there for mo(o)nths ;)
I'm sure someone on here (SAL, maybe) has one or two laying around that could give a better explanation, but that's how it was explained to me.
Dom
Thank's guys,interesting attachment.
Quote from: alantani on March 22, 2009, 07:27:41 PM
there is a pretty large gap between the spool and the inner side plate rings. anything less than 0.022 inches can get stuck or even sliced off. that means 25 pound test berkeley big game can still get caught. i generally recommend 30# mono. that works out fine because the reel will hold 350 yards of 30# mono. what it also means is that the reel is probabably not suitable for spectra.
any other reel with a spool this big might be loaded with up to 400 yards of 65 pound spectra and a 40 or 50 pound topshot. a 30% drag setting would mean a 12 to 15 pound drag setting. the 3-stack of jigmaster drag washers actually can deliver 15 pounds of drag, but that's pretty much the limit for any stack of three drag washers. the brass drive shaft (gear sleeve) is also a big issue. if the drags are set to more then 8 pounds, or if they are sticky at all, the handle will round off the top of the soft brass and start to loosen. i have a stainless steel drive shaft for this reel and it's a great upgrade if you're going to lean hard on this reel, but it cost $20.
one GREAT advantage of the jigmaster 500 is that there are no bearings to rust out. the reel that i recommend most for the kayak guys is a narrow spool penn 501 with a stainless steel drive shaft, greased carbon fiber drag washers, a penn jigmaster power handle and 200 yards of straight 30# mono. personally, i think this is the best kayak reel around. alan
Is there a fix for the gap issue? I'd like to use this real with 20# mono but, i'm wary of the line being sliced off or stuck. Thanks!
Chance here to buy a nice little 501.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-PENN-JIGMASTER-501L-REEL-NEW-IN-BOX-/250976687089?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6f6053f1#ht_500wt_1203
That's a beauty - well spotted Tom.
Cheers, Justin
I'm tempted myself Justin. UK postage is only $18.
Cheers, Tom.
What are the sizes of the bearings???
G'day CO,
I may have misunderstood which reel you're referring to, but the 500 and 501 have bushings/bearings rather than ball bearings.
The 505HS and 506HS both have two 0.125 x 0.375 x 0.156 (inch) ball bearings.
Hope that's of some assistance.
Cheers, Justin
PS Tom, I see that cracker little 501 sold for US$106!
Hi Justin, it was a lovely original boxed reel and will make a nice addition to some ones collection. I just bought a brand new 501 (Junior/Narrow) for a friend from my Penn spares guy. Only cost £40 ($63) lovely reel. Fairly unique as the left side plate has "Penn Jigmaster" embossed and the right side plate "Penn 500" no mention of USA, strange! ;) Anyway the new owner is very happy as he now has a great little Penn jigging reel that should serve him well for many years. ;D
Great stuff - well done mate.
Cheers, Justin
Alan directed me to this thread to replace the drags in my ProGear 255. Was real nervous because I'm not mechanically inclined. And .... success! New drags in, reel all clean ans lubed properly. What a great place this is. Went on to do the same for an old Calcutta. Great site!
very nice!
Wow great tutorial there, got a few 500's to service the other day and this will help a lot.
Quote from: alantani on January 11, 2012, 05:31:22 AM
i bought a bunch of the 24-56 handles at $15 each years ago and still have some. send a pm if interested. thanks! alan
DO YOU STILL HAVE ANY
i think about a half dozen. send me an pm
DOSE ANYONE KNOW WHY THE SS YOKE DOSE NOT WORK AND THE BRASS ONE DOSE? ON MY 505 WHEN THE SS YOKE IS IN IT DOSE NOT LIKE TO GO IN TO FREE SPOOL, WHEN THE BRASS ONE IS IN IT DOSE, WHAT GIVES? IS IT OK TO USE THE BRASS ONE WITH THE SS GEARS?
It's okay to use the brass yoke with SS pinions. It just doesn't last as long.
Some of the yokes have a slight angle where it engages with the eccentric jack. If it is in upside down, sometimes the yoke will not engage easily. Not sure about your SS one.
Quote from: Bryan Young on April 17, 2012, 07:05:54 PM
It's okay to use the brass yoke with SS pinions. It just doesn't last as long.
Some of the yokes have a slight angle where it engages with the eccentric jack. If it is in upside down, sometimes the yoke will not engage easily. Not sure about your SS one.
Ran into that problem while out fishing lucky i brought a back up reel. Went back home opened it up, flipped it around and no problems after that.
I DID THE SAME AND IT DID NOT HELLP,I THINK IT MY BE WORN OUT!
it's getting hung up somewhere. compare the brass and stainless together, make sure they are the same size, make sure there are no burrs, and make sure that you are using bridge screws that are threaded only at the tip and not for the entire length of the screw.
Quote from: alantani on April 18, 2012, 04:37:03 PM
make sure that you are using bridge screws that are threaded only at the tip and not for the entire length of the screw.
X2 If the holes on your yoke are a bit tight this will cause you problems.
I just picked up a 501, while spooling it with 30lb mono I can feel a grinding noise when I crank the handle, there doesn't seem to be any teeth missing on the gears though. If the gear sleave is bad would this cause the grinding?
Sounds like gears. It's not easy to determine if the gears are ok with the naked eye, try taking a closer look with a magnifying glass. Also, the dog would usually give before the gear sleave, check it as well.
Poor orphan FleaBay 506 >:(
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f134/gkolokousis/506salmon30002.jpg)
Can it be saved? ???
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f134/gkolokousis/506salmon30003.jpg)
Yea Baby!!!! :o My last day of vacation and the last chore to finish. Woops, it's midnight and I got real fishing reel issues! ::)
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f134/gkolokousis/smokerbatch012.jpg)
Nice work on the 506 - well done.
One of my favourite models too.
Cheers for sharing, Justin
one of my favorite reels!
Quote from: alantani on July 16, 2012, 08:47:16 PM
one of my favorite reels!
Mine also Alan! 506, 501, 146, 113HN ;)
When I received the reel it was missing the handle lock screw and tension washer on the
outside under the star.
The drags and washers were in bad shape so I replaced them
with a standard Smooth Drag 4+1 carbontex drag kit and new 3 washer pack.
I now have ample room for more washers and drags, but only replaced it back to stock configuration.
How many drags I can jam in this little hot rod, 5+1?
Alan, thanks for sending me the screw and do you have the tension washers?
Did it come stock with one or two?
-g
OK, you guys got me thinking. After reading this great tutorial, I knew I still had some of these laying around and not used in twenty years or more. After checking I came up with two right away that I'm going to restore. Both reels have the take apart screw on the left side plate as opposed to the right plate. I believe both reels were bought in the late seventies or very early eighties. Both reels are marked on the left side plate PENN JIGMASTER 500S MADE IN U.S.A. The only marking on the right side plate is on and off for the shift lever. One has an alluminum Newell spool and the old brown Newell bearing/bushing caps made of plastic or nylon. The other reel has the red annodized alluminium spool .
Welcome aboard Pollocks.
Well done on the rebuild.
All the best, Justin
nicely done, and welcome!!!!!
I just finished going over one of my 500s's. The first thing I noticed was a steel main gear. From the photos on this thread it seems that they came with a bronze main gear. I wonder if this was standard on the "S" model. Any way the inside of the gear appeared to be machined a little rough. After cleaning up the drag fibers I noticed that the inside fiber [the one that faces up to the gear] was worn more than the others. Has anyone else noticed this with steel main gears?
great reel you got there..
501 is a narrow version of 500..am i right?
so, what's the different between 501 and 506?
sorry if it's a silly question.. ???
Quote from: Danhans on July 27, 2012, 03:01:56 PM
great reel you got there..
501 is a narrow version of 500..am i right?
so, what's the different between 501 and 506?
sorry if it's a silly question.. ???
501 is a narrow 500
506 is a narrow 505
The 500 has bushings and 4:1 ratio, 505 has 2 ball bearings 5:1 ratio and an aluminum spool.
The 505 casts much better
Quote from: LI Guy on July 27, 2012, 02:33:37 PM
I just finished going over one of my 500s's. The first thing I noticed was a steel main gear. From the photos on this thread it seems that they came with a bronze main gear. I wonder if this was standard on the "S" model. Any way the inside of the gear appeared to be machined a little rough. After cleaning up the drag fibers I noticed that the inside fiber [the one that faces up to the gear] was worn more than the others. Has anyone else noticed this with steel main gears?
Are you talking about the washer under the main gear?
There should be a stack with carbon fiber washers on top, and the a felt washer on the bottom.
Alan reccomends changing the felt one to carbon fiber for this same reason
No it's not the thrust washer. I replaced that with HT 6-113. It's the inside drag washer that is housed inside the gear. I'm sure it was caused by the poorly machined surface.
LI Guy, First of all, welcome to our site. Glad you decided to join us.
Steel gears, if the drags were dry, it is likely that there was slight corrosion (pitting) in the gear. I usually use a wire brush with my dremel to smooth them out. But, if you install greased carbon drags, the pitted surface will hold the CF drag washer and the other side adjacent to the keyed washer will slide anyway, and will have no effect. Not to worry, but be sure to keep those gears greased to prevent further corrosion.
Bryan, Thanks for the welcome and the prompt reply. The drag washers I installed were HT 100 greased with Shimano drag grease. The drag functions just fine, but I think that washer will continue to wear more than the others because of the surface. It's not corrosion but it's grooved as if poorly machined from the start.
Quote from: miamipescador on July 27, 2012, 03:28:51 PM
501 is a narrow 500
506 is a narrow 505
The 500 has bushings and 4:1 ratio, 505 has 2 ball bearings 5:1 ratio and an aluminum spool.
The 505 casts much better
ahaaa...thanks miamipescador!
I have a few steel gears with tool chater on the drag contact surface but so far haven't tried cleaning them up. If I ever get my lathe running I will.
HI Keta, Yes mine appear to have chatter from milling. The drags are fine and in my case it probably doesn't pay to polish it up. It would probably create a new problem with the drag stack height if I polished it out.
Hi,
Is it right that the new jugmaster 500's are made in China?
Has anyone had experience with them as far as quality/durability compared to the old ones. An ad I saw stated 2 bearings but I was under the understanding that the old ones only had bushings. Have been looking for a good older one but they are a bit harder to come by over here in Aust and the postage from the US makes them more expensive than a new one.
Thanks,
Mark
G'day Mark,
The new ones are great - I've seen a good few and have had no issues with them.
'Bushings' and 'bearings' were interchangeable terms, historically.
Only the 505/506 high-speed versions have 'ball bearings'.
Hope that's of some assistance.
Cheers, Justin
Thanks again Justin.. good to know.
Hey folks - been lurking for awhile and now took the plunge.
Thanks mainly to this board I tackled the clean up of my JM 500.
Got a shot of the parts list brought to life, and after it was all cleaned up.
Lucky,
Now that's how you make an entrance... welcome aboard!
Looking good so far, now it's just gotta go back together with no leftover parts ;)
Keep it up,
Dom
photo of the month!
Nice looking reel! Another newbie making me look bad ..... again. :-\ :D
Welcome aboard.
QuoteNice looking reel!
x2 - and congrats on 'photo of the month' on your first post!
Welcome aboard Drew.
All the best, Justin
Lucky is definitely Lucky. Welcome to the board, and that's one nice reel...BTW, where's the spool?
Welcome aboard Drew, great reel.
Well spotted Bryan, I think theres an "S" missing too ;)
The side plate is marked 500S. I was looking for that RED spool.
Nice job Lucky, welcome!
I'm trying to figure out how that spool rolled off that tray :-\.
Spool? I was so mesmerized by the beauty of the photo, I didn't even think about the spool. Let's see, what else did I miss....
Welcome to the forum, bud.
Hey guys!! New to the forum but have been lurking for quite a while. Been a Penn lover for the pass 30 years and after reading this tutorial, I had to get myself a Penn 500. Found one on ebay in mint condition, my plan was to convert it into a 501jr
Got the parts together
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww177/Marc1956/DSCN0073.jpg)
Took the opportunity to mag it but removable
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww177/Marc1956/DSCN0075.jpg)
All assemble
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww177/Marc1956/DSCN0080.jpg)
And changed the handle
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww177/Marc1956/DSCN0814.jpg)
Eventually this will be my son, hope he will take care of it
Alan you're da man!!
Marc..
:P
Nice work Marc - that's a beauty.
Picked meself up an old Tib 501 last week too, but not quite as pretty as yours ;) ;D
Thanks for sharing - and welcome aboard.
All the best, Justin
PS Where did you get the mag set up?
Nice, Marc!
keith, got all your parts. need a few minutes to put everything together.
Thanks guys :)
Quote from: redsetta on September 13, 2012, 03:36:50 AM
PS Where did you get the mag set up?
Home made, the metal part that the magnet stick to it is from an electric box reducer(I think that's what it's called), looks like a big washer, I cut in half to fit, you find those at Home Depot in the electrical section
Next upgrade will be a SS gear sleeve but not sure which one to get fine tooth or coarse
Marc..
Alan
I am doing over a 501. I have ordered the SS Sleeves & putting in SS Gears. My question is when I removed the drag washers from the Brass Gear there were the normal 3 stack except there was 2 drag washers & 1 teflon washer. Why was this done? Does this cut down on the drag?
Mike
i would be very surprised to find out that penn installed a white teflon washer in place of carbon fiber. maybe someone else?
I've seen it a few times before, I've also seen it in a 4/0 and 6/0. Some believe that adding a teflon washer would make things smoother, not me of course.
I purchased two 6/0's with the red spools last year and both had a thick tefllon washer at the top. As far as I know, Penn only used teflon in spinners.
Thanks for the answer. The Teflon washer was not going back in there.
Hello,
After succesfully reparing my Shimano Calcutta 200 (silver), I decided to replace the drag in my 500L JM.
I followed the instructions on Page one of the OP, but was unable to seperate the gear assembly. ???
any suggestions?
precisely,
how did you get this apart?
It's pretty snug - yet clean on mine.
From this :
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0494.JPG)
to this:
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0495.JPG)
The gear should slide off. If it doesn't, try holding the gear with one hand and tap the gear sleeve tieh the back end of the plastic or wooden handled screw driver. It should slide out after that.
Quote from: Bryan Young on November 26, 2012, 03:52:57 PM
The gear should slide off. If it doesn't, try holding the gear with one hand and tap the gear sleeve tieh the back end of the plastic or wooden handled screw driver. It should slide out after that.
If you didn't make sure the pin is removed before tapping...
Quote from: dobrobill on November 26, 2012, 04:09:31 PM
If you didn't make sure the pin is removed before tapping...
I think he's trying to get the main gear off, not the gear sleeve.
If you tap a brass gear sleeve to get the main gear off put the handle retaining nut back on so you don't dammage the end. I've had to use two screw drivers to GENTELY pry a fused drag stack off of a gear sleeve.
I was going to soak the whole assembly in degreaser, but I will try prying them apart - carefully.
Help
I have a New Maroon Right Side plate & I went to install it it the ring but it would not line up with the take apart screw 1/8" short of hole. Is there a way to adjust the 3 pins in the side plate?
Mike
Yes, you can adjust it by filing the 3 mating slots. Remove the slotted inner ring from the plain outer ring (it's a light press fit.)
Fit the slotted inner ring to the side plate and hand tighten.
Observe where the pins are binding in the 3 slots and mark with felt tip pen.
Remove slotted inner ring and very carefully file the slots to permit the two small take apart holes to line up.
This is best done using needle files.
Reassemble rings and fit the posts using the 4 countersunk head screws.
Refit side plate and check fit,you may have to repeat the process until final hole alingment is achieved.
It's fiddly but rewarding when it all comes together. ;D
having problems with my jigmaster. Doing alot of bait casting. I get small kine bird nest the line always going in between the spool and the side plate. Im using 40# berkley big game. I have another jigmaster with the same line that never does that. Could something be wrong with my reel.
it might not be centered properly. if the bushings are worn, they might have to be replaced. it's the right side that is most critical, because the left side can be adjusted.
ok sounds good. I was gonna change out the stock sleeve with the stainless I got from you Alan. But was wondering if the reel was no good. Someones selling newell bushings on craigslist that fits the jigmaster. So probly gonna pick that up. Thanks for the info ..
first question, though. is the spool properly centered?
Do as Alan said, don't go spending money yet.
It also sounds like the spool is not centered to me. This might sound stupid, but I've seen it before, make sure the handle side bushing in screwed in all the way.
Did you notice if the spool is positioned all the way to the right?...handle side. Sometimes a spacer on that side will center the spool.
Thanks again Alan, and thanks Alto. never thought of putting spacers on the bushing to center it. Im glad I asked questions on here first cause I would have got rid of the reel. The spool does kinda look like its more to the left.
I thought I would mention, only cause I have not seen it posted anywhere else, but that doesn't mean it hasn't so I am not trying to hijack another post, I saw somewhere that the under gear HT-100 6-113 was used, and there were concerns about it's diameter overlapping the gear sleeve to much. I really don't believe the the 6-113 is going to fold up under pressure and interefere with the dog. It made me think about some extra HT-100's I had in the repair storage container. And lo-and behold a perfect match/fit, and I am sure Sal would appreciate this. The perfect fit/match for your 500 under gear washer is the HT-100 6-60, these are from the Penn 7500ss spinning reel, they are just right and almost identical to the old fashioned phenolic under gear washer. I just did the rebuild on my Penn/Accurate 500 and used this, HT-100 6-309sp kit and HT-100 6-60 under gear, works smooth as butta! Dan
That was me that asked about that Drag Washer. I have tried it on other Penn Reels & it work great. I still haven't done it to my J M Jrs yet. I have some grinding to do so I can get the Newell 5-1 Gears to fit. When I am finished there will be more Newell then Penn. It's hard working with a 5 yr old helping. The last time he was taking a reel apart for me. I might never find all the springs.
Well if you find you can't get the Newells to work, I sure do have a home for them!!! I currently have the 4:1 Steel main gear set which is actually stronger in my opinion than SS, it's the ratio I would like to increase as in 5:1 Newells, and I have the Accurate side plates and won't have to modify it to work, at anyrate the 6-60 is the perfect match for the gear sleeve....Dan
Just changed out my old gear sleeve in my jigmaster with the stainless gear sleeve from Alan. Put in new carbon drag. Wow you can really tell the difference in the drag. Can't wait to test um out.
these can be very frustrating to work on sometimes.
Quote from: suitekids on December 30, 2012, 05:32:02 PM
I thought I would mention, only cause I have not seen it posted anywhere else, but that doesn't mean it hasn't so I am not trying to hijack another post, I saw somewhere that the under gear HT-100 6-113 was used, and there were concerns about it's diameter overlapping the gear sleeve to much. I really don't believe the the 6-113 is going to fold up under pressure and interefere with the dog. It made me think about some extra HT-100's I had in the repair storage container. And lo-and behold a perfect match/fit, and I am sure Sal would appreciate this. The perfect fit/match for your 500 under gear washer is the HT-100 6-60, these are from the Penn 7500ss spinning reel, they are just right and almost identical to the old fashioned phenolic under gear washer. I just did the rebuild on my Penn/Accurate 500 and used this, HT-100 6-309sp kit and HT-100 6-60 under gear, works smooth as butta! Dan
Good tip on the 6-60, Dan ;)
Just bought a 500 jigmaster off the local auction site and found it wouldn't go into freespool. Opened it up and someone had assembled in back to front so it was continually working.I've emailed the seller and told them it doesn't work, not sure how to play this one but thanks to this tutorial i had it fixed in less than and hour. Now to put in a stainless gear sleeve and 5+1 drag washers.
It's going to be for kayak use only , as alan pointed out very easy to maintain in a harsh environment.
good choice.
Quotebecause the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #8).
What would be the negative side of not discarding the tension washer? If there is a downside, wouldn't it be better to just use the thinner 6-60 and leaving the tension washer in place?
Thanks,
Bob
So I'm near the end of my rebuild of my 500 and have added a stainless gear sleeve and dog and replaced the fiber washers with carbontex washers. With everything together the whole handle/gear sleeve assembly has about the thickness of a washer of play (in and out direction). When fully assembled, I can pull on the handle/star drag and it will move in and out in relation to the side plate. It's been so long since I used this reel that I can't remember if this was normal for a jigmaster. With the right side plate removed and left fully assembled I can pull on the handle and see the gear sleeve move away from the bridge. pushing on the handle likewise closes this gap.
I included the tension washer back in my rebuild because I didn't find the carbontex significantly thicker than the old fiber washers. I also made sure I reused all three metal washers in the drag stack and the new carbon washer is under the main gear. So I didn't leave anything out ;)
What could be the problem? The tension washer seems to have a bit of "wave" to it. Is this normal and does it just need to be turned over on the stack? It looks like I could add a second carbon washer under the main gear to take up the play. Would that be a viable option?
this amount of play is normal. :-\
Quote from: SoCalPaddle on April 12, 2013, 11:12:13 PM
So I'm near the end of my rebuild of my 500 and have added a stainless gear sleeve and dog and replaced the fiber washers with carbontex washers. With everything together the whole handle/gear sleeve assembly has about the thickness of a washer of play (in and out direction). When fully assembled, I can pull on the handle/star drag and it will move in and out in relation to the side plate. It's been so long since I used this reel that I can't remember if this was normal for a jigmaster. With the right side plate removed and left fully assembled I can pull on the handle and see the gear sleeve move away from the bridge. pushing on the handle likewise closes this gap.
I included the tension washer back in my rebuild because I didn't find the carbontex significantly thicker than the old fiber washers. I also made sure I reused all three metal washers in the drag stack and the new carbon washer is under the main gear. So I didn't leave anything out ;)
What could be the problem? The tension washer seems to have a bit of "wave" to it. Is this normal and does it just need to be turned over on the stack? It looks like I could add a second carbon washer under the main gear to take up the play. Would that be a viable option?
How about a 5.1:1 SS main and pinion gears?
Quote from: alantani on April 12, 2013, 11:20:19 PM
this amount of play is normal. :-\
LOL, Ok. These idiosyncrasies of these old reels make them fun!
Quote from: alantani on April 12, 2013, 11:20:19 PM
this amount of play is normal. :-\
Yes it is, but I personally like no play ;D
SCP, remove the sleeve and place a shim under it. The shim need to sit flat on the bridge, you'll get away with it if it's a little bigger than the post.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 12, 2013, 11:27:54 PM
Quote from: alantani on April 12, 2013, 11:20:19 PM
this amount of play is normal. :-\
Yes it is, but I personally like no play ;D
SCP, remove the sleeve and place a shim under it. The shim need to sit flat on the bridge, you'll get away with it if it's a little bigger than the post.
Hi Sal, I'd like to correct the same issue on my 2 jiggies.... can you give some more specifics on that shim? i.e. thickness, diameter, and what you used? Thanks bud!
Erik, those are not easy to find, I make my own.
The dimentions are ID 7.25mm OD 11.5mm. Thickness is usually .10mm.
SoCalPaddle here is a picture of what I mentioned above
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/parsts%20an%20such/004-10.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/parsts%20an%20such/004-10.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/parsts%20an%20such/005-17.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/parsts%20an%20such/005-17.jpg.html)
By the way, McMasters Carr does carry the shims for the 113H, I use these Peel-Away Shims
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/parsts%20an%20such/009-14.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/parsts%20an%20such/009-14.jpg.html)
Item #90902A221
Quote from: Bucktail on April 12, 2013, 05:22:14 PM
Quotebecause the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #8).
What would be the negative side of not discarding the tension washer? If there is a downside, wouldn't it be better to just use the thinner 6-60 and leaving the tension washer in place?
Thanks,
Bob
???
Some like to remove the tension washer, I like to keep them in all my reels.
Some also like to upgrade to this type of washer:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=mat8q3
You would get away with the one that comes with the stack, these are not cheap.
About the drag stack, I keep the 3+1 configuration, on these reels, I do not make adjustment with additional washers.
I like to make adjustments by sanding the spacing sleeve. Scott offers different sleeve length, but I like to make my own, all you need to do is sand it down a bit, until you get it as you want it.
On all my reels, I like zero movement with the spool when the drag is backed all the way while turning the handle.
If you have the opposite of what I mentioned above, simply add another tension spring ( wavy washer ). You could place it on top of the other, or under the star.
I hope this is of some help.
Sal
I replace the wavy spring washer with a Belleville spring washer and a shorter spacer sleeve. I like to have a tiny bit of space or just contacting the drag when the star is backed off all of the way. SS spacer sleeves have been planned for sometime but are not a current priority.
Thank you to everyone for the replies and insights. This is one of the reasons I was so happy to find this forum, the friendly folks and the breadth of knowledge.
Thanks!!
And sometimes it's difficult fitting the Belleville in the drag stack because it rubs on the sideplate. In this case, I place the Beleville under the star. Works very well, but I still like it in the side plate if possible.
On my 113Hs I have one bellvile on top of the last keyed washer and 1 under the star thanks to Bryan's suggestion.
Okay guys, today I picked up a "99" Gold Tiburon frame, right hand, right side plate that reads 501, and left side plate reads 500. Although, I haven't disassembled it yet, it appears to work fine, good free spool, smooth, but how much "play" is there supposed be when you crank the handle before it locks into place. For some reason, I think there is too much play (meaning the handle moves back and forth before engaging and can't go backwards) if, that makes any sense. Never, really owned anything like this without an anti-reverse that doesn't allow the handle to move backwards, at all.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk232/eaguon/20130615_203553_zps1d2d2f4f.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk232/eaguon/20130615_203619_zps7eb6c5a0.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk232/eaguon/20130615_203540_zpsa3080383.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk232/eaguon/20130615_233303_zps115e16d9.jpg)
Your reel has a single anti-reverse dog, it should reel backwards as much as 60 degrees before stopping. It should not move forward much at all before it starts to spin the spool.
Ron
Welcome to the world of dogs and not AR bearings.
" it should reel backwards as much as 60 degrees before stopping" That is something I am definitely NOT used to.
Welcome to the world of dogs and not AR bearings. Thanks for the greeting :D I guess I'll strip her braid off and sell her.
I greatly prefer dogs to AR bearings. AR bearings WILL fail at some point, a maintained reel with a dog always has a chunk of metal behind the ratchet.
Ron
I guess I could try this? http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=5966.0
Wagon, that mod is great. You can either go with simultaneous dogs(still about 60* of back play in the handle) or alternating dogs(about 30* play) your choice.
Bob
Hi Alan, recently followed your tutorial regarding penn 500. Having trouble replacing star drag. It won't thread on far enough to touch sleeve.
How do I solve this issue? Thanks.
It may be that your drag stack is too high, belleville or wave spring washer is too thick, spaceer is too tall, or the eared washer is not sitting properly in the main gear. If you reel worked fine before, I'd say that it's your eared washer may have slipped out of the main gear.
star drag wants to cross thread. Any suggestions regarding.....
You might be able to save it by running a tap through the star and/or a die over the gear sleeve. Honestly though, a stainless gear sleeve and oversized star are never bad ideas.
Ron
The star should be installed with the part number down. You sometimes have to rotate the star backwards a few times to make sure you mate both the star and the gear sleeve and the start of the thread, and go slow, holding it flat. Once it's on, it should rotate smoothly.
Can some one help... Ok I just purchased a jigmaster 500 from eBay it looks exactly like that red/maroonish jigmaster on page 1 "Peters".my plans where to replace the washers,put ss gear sleeve, ss gears. To my surprise when I opened the reel it already had new washers, fiber washer under main gear and ss every single part except the yoke. Which I replaced already Do these reels come like this or did some one upgrade everything? I contacted seller but he said he has no clue that he just sells them. also im breaking my head thinking ??? Should I buy Ss gears or not, because my gear looks exactly like "Peters". Can anyone tell me if that gear in the pic is a ss gear..... Thanks
Sounds like you scored. My 501 came with a brass sleeve and main gear.
If your gears are 4:1 and look like stainless thn they are plain steel. These age just as strong as stainless you just need to keep the from rusting. If they are 5:1 and are not brass then they are aftermarket stainless. Either way you made out great with all the other stainless parts. An extra $30.00 or so of parts and a way stronger reel than you bargained for.
Ron
Thanks for the help, looks like I got a great deal :o. I paid $45 and it also came with t-bar power handle and Newell bars but I was thinking of removing the bars and upgrading to a Tiburon frame. Does a Tiburon frame make it much better than having Newell bars? or is it just a different look
For the drag range you will be fishing, newell bars will be just fine.
If you have a Newell base on there as well you have a truly fantastic reel.
Ron
Thanks guys, 1 more thing I ran into a problem with the 500. When I first got it I noticed that when I would turn the star drag to tighten it or back it off Its really hard. I figured it was the gear sleeve (98-60) so I changed it to a (10-505). But it's still the same and the washers are greased with cals grease... My 113h,309,9,10 etc don't seem to have this problem any help would be appreciated
If the original gear sleeve was stainless then I would expect the star to be cross threaded. The two sleeve's your talking about have different threads and so the same star definatly will not work on both. Your 309s star will fit the old sleeve so I'd try that, if it is tight then your old sleeve might be cross threaded.
Ron
Sorry I meant to say 98-505at gear sleeve and 10-505 star drag, i went with the fine thread i heard it was better. And the old gear sleeve was 98-60 with star drag 10-60, i believe both are different threads. But both of them seem to have the same problem. I'm forgetting it only does this when i install the handle with lock nut and screw if i remove the handle its nice and smooth.. I thought it might be the power handle but no luck IV tried different handles 24-66 and i believe 24-155 neither seem to work ???
Are you saying if you back the drag off as far as you can the star binds with the handle, or is it difficult to turn throughout the entire drag range. I don't see how it could be the latter if you have a brand new sleeve and star.
Ron
Just like you said, it does both when I tighten the star its hard to turn the wheel and when I back it up all the way it binds with the handle and makes it even harder to turn the wheel my fingers actually hurt. I have to hold the handle knob with my left hand for leverage and turn the star drag wheel with my right hand. Also on my other reels when the star is backed up all the way they don't bind with the handles and when I pull the line out of the spool it comes out very smooth. on my 500 I puul the line with the star backed up all the way and its hard to pull the line, it comes of the spool but I got to pull hard
I'm certain something is off in your drag stack but I think I'd have to be their to figure it out. I'm certain their is a guru around that will help.
Ron
ok if you think its the drag stack,ill check that out tomorrow.... i believe the drag stack order is fiber,metal,fiber,eared metal,fiber,and the last metal. is this correct?
Your drag stack is correct, as stated. I am not the 500 guru by any means but I did have this problem, same as yours. Did you find the answer or have somebody fix it for you?
Wothoyt, no i never did fix it couldn't figure what the problem was. Its funny because i have other jigmasters and they work perfectly fine. What was the problem with yours?
garking84, what kind of drag washers do they looked like on your jigmaster? Ht-100 or smoothie or carbontex drag? Check the other gears. Can you post some pictures of the gears taken apart? It is possible there are some parts worned or mis-matched from other jigmasters. I have a franken Surfmaster that had a similar issue when the star was turned. ??? The issue was resolved by switching the metal washers from another surfmaster. It appears one of the metal washer was from another penn reel but not from a surfmaster. ;D It was thicker. :o
The drag washers where ht-100s. I remember because I ordered the ht 100 kit from Pennparts. I ended up selling that jigmaster couple weeks ago. I'm sure it was something simple because the person who bought it seemed pretty confident in fixing it. I just didn't have the time or patience to keep messing with it :-\ Thanks for all the help guys
I recently bought my first 501, and went through it, replacing the weirdo drag washer stack that was there with wet HT-100s and new metals, and added an SS gear post (with correct star) and AR dog. Nice reel, but I am having an issue with getting enough drag. It takes a few turns of the star to get any drag at all, and I bottom out at about 7 0r 8 pounds. I'm guessing some bellvilles or a longer spacer are called for. Does that seem right? If so, what's a good source? As a hobbyist, I just need a couple of pieces. Thanks for your suggestions.
Mike
Mike, before buying a new sleeve and other parts, replace the top metal drag washer with one of the original keyed drag washers if there is a difference in thickness. If not, you may also try adding one of the original keyed drag washers to the top of the drag stack. If that metal washer rubs on the sideplate, place a metal drag washer under the star. One of those should solve your problem.
Good suggestions, Bryan. I will experiment with them in the next day or so. Just waiting for some things from Dawn. (Trying to avoid extra round trips through the reel.) Thanks.
Mike
Mike
You never said that you had a 8-60 Spring Washer on top of the Stack
Mike
Mike, the 8-60 is in place.
The keyed washer should help and I had this issue once and the eared washer had become displaced when I was putting everything back together. Did you replace the under gear washer as well? Lastly a beville washer between the spacer and star will help with the issue of having to turn the star a few times before the drag pressure is felt. I move the Bellville washers around all the ime till I get a feel that I like with the drag.
Sorry to be slow in replying, but I wanted to have something definite to say, and was waiting for some parts. First, success! Details:
When I started to work on the reel again, there was a little drag even with the star fully backed off, which was not always true. This turned out to be the eared washer having escaped, which must have happened when I was fiddling trying to figure out the low peak drag. Nice call, FishSticks. After getting the stack back together, looking for decent drag I cranked the star down right down onto the chromed collar in the side plate that the spacer passes through. This I fixed by adding another keyed washer under the spring washer, Bryan's suggestion. Speaking of the spring washer, mine doesn't have much spring in it, is pretty close to flat. I guess a replacement is called for.
So now I've got plenty of drag to go chasing stripers if they every show up in NJ. Thanks to everyone for suggestions and comments.
Mike
The Striped Bass are mostly in Montauk & just starting at Fire Island. They will get to you.
Mike
Glad it's working great for you! Now slay some striper!
Yeah, the stripers are a little late this year. My guess is that the water has been too warm, at least partly due to the mild autumn. But just now I read a report of some jig fish. The post was not big on specifics, but it appears to be somewhere between the Hook and Shark River, so game on.
Mike
Any1 know if there are any left hand ss sleeves around?
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on November 09, 2014, 10:26:41 PM
Any1 know if there are any left hand ss sleeves around?
I'm sorry, I purchased Alan's last gear sleeve for my son's Penn 259 Narrow conversation.
Hi guys
I spend a fair bit of time servicing friends Jigmaster's and what I'm getting regularly is the bridge post becoming loose and allowing lots of sideways movement in the handle which on some disengages the dog. Also the gear sleeve no longer spins on the post but the whole post and gear sleeve spin together it would seem to be a weakness of the reel but to be fair they often tackle 60 pound fish. I have been replacing the bridge, is there a repair for the worn ones?
Many thanks
Ant
Quote from: Ant on December 12, 2014, 05:29:43 AM
Hi guys
I spend a fair bit of time servicing friends Jigmaster's and what I'm getting regularly is the bridge post becoming loose and allowing lots of sideways movement in the handle which on some disengages the dog. Also the gear sleeve no longer spins on the post but the whole post and gear sleeve spin together it would seem to be a weakness of the reel but to be fair they often tackle 60 pound fish. I have been replacing the bridge, is there a repair for the worn ones?
Many thanks
Ant
Try here:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10424.0
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l43/fifis101/20150304_180949_zpsjth44j9w.jpg)
I got this Jigmaster given to me by my father years ago. I have never used it because I am a lever drag guy and never been interested in using the "old piece of history". The other day I found it in the shed a thought maybe I should give the old girl a go. Give her a good once over and see how she performs. So I get one here and do a search and sure enough there's a great tutorial. I open mine up and it is really was pristine in side. I was expecting it to look something like the one in the tutorial as the seemed to be a fair bit of uneven resistance when I turn the handle. After a bit of inspection I think the spool is just rubbing on the housing. It's not a constant rub but on and off as the spool turns. Not completely sure why but could it be bent shaft? I can fiddle around with it and I can get it to almost go away but I assume it'll come back when drag is applied.
I think it could be a twisted frame or a bent spool shaft, how does the reel foot looks ?
Marc..
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l43/fifis101/FastStoneEditor_zpsyktinh7e.png)
Using a pic from the tutorial I have indicated the edge of the spool that is rubbing on frame. Could I just skim a small amount off the corner of spool to stop it from rubbing? This will be easy to do and I can't see it causing any issues.
Sanding the spool is not the correct way of fixing the issue, you would actually ruin it. Check and see if the right side bushing is tight all the way, if it is, you would need a new one, 5 dollars is a small price to pay. Some like to place shimming material in them, as a piece of copper or stainless steel, I usually just buy a new one or try another from different reel.
Sal.
It's easy for folks to get in a hurry and tighten screws tight the first time they put a screwdriver to a screw. Sometimes just loosening all the side plate to post/frame screws and taking them back up in an alternating tightening sequence. Where you take them all up snug but no 2 screws right next each other. Try to use a crossing pattern. Then a little tighter and a final round with all screws as equally tight as you can determine. That way the frame has equal pressures from all sides and hopefully straightening it out.
Good luck...they are fun reels.
Aaaand I thought about the obscure, olds cool, ya never can tell, answer. The old glued together Newell spools were known to crush as the mono dried out and shrunk. I heard about it but never saw it. I always used Dacron backing plus mono. Now-a-dayz it's called braid and a topshot. Yada, yada........
How much should I spend on a 500 in decent shape?
What is the advantages of the old verses new?
For example what would the reel in Alan's tutorial sell for?
Price wise you could get one for $5-$20 at a local flea market, Craigslist is usually around $20-35, Ebay varies greatly from $5 up to $350 (Accurate Magnum). It all depends on what condition you are looking for and if it is modded or not. I would say a USA Jigmaster in very nice and fishable condition that looks very clean with small to no corrosion should be $35-$50. I like to go on ebay and look at SOLD items to see what prices should be. Some hate Ebay, I personally love it (my wife for example hates it :P). The time of year can change the pricing as well; I've found that in winter people want to sell things because they are sitting around not fishing or vacationing, Summer is when there is less for sale and prices seem higher (these are just what I've found in my searching, others may have a different approach/theory). Good luck.
Thanks Dan.
That's about what I thought.
I just got one from Flea bay, unfished, USA , no box for $35.00 . ;D
Decent deal for a reel I have wanted for a while.
I know I will use it as I do a lot of fishing off the coast of Northern California.
Nice score!
plus free shipping🚣
Something I learned years ago from a deckhand on the Polaris Deluxe:
In a pinch, if you lose your dog spring, use the spring out of a BIC lighter, just cut it to about 3/16".
Works like a dream.
I spent a few hours last night disassembling and reassembling two different Jigmasters (500 and 501) and checking drag numbers. I have Brian's Kit in stock steel gears with PC DD'd bridge kit. I found that no matter what order I was reading from OTHER peoples tests I couldn't get the same. Sal and others have done a marvelous job showing us the best ways, but there are times that depending on the reel the stack may be too tall or too short even using the custom spacers. So, rolled the sleeves up and got to work, haha.
Here is what I found to work for ME...please note that parts vary...reels vary...preferences vary...I think this is going to work for me, but I like the idea of constantly changing it.
First - my style of fishing for this 501 - Deep dropping for sea bass, tile fish, cod and other bottom feeders. It'll be loaded up with 450 yds of 50 lb depth counter PP.
My drag order that I ended my night with....
1)Brians smaller CF washer under the main gear
2)steel main
3)Brians Kit in his specified ordeer
4)Stock keyed washer from the reel
5)Delrin washer from Sal
6)Stock tension spring
7)PC 10.5mm spacer
8)Tension spring from other the other jigmasters drag stack
9)Star
10)Handle
I used a Delrin washer under the main but I was getting a slight grinding when reeling...It may have just needed to be cleaned up, but it seemed to be rubbing on the Double Dogs. Maybe a shim under the sleeve would cure this.
I added the stock keyed washer, Delrin washer, and tension spring in place of the belleville because I was only getting about 12 lbs of drag with the belleville. I believe Keta pointed this out at some point as a fix...could be mistaken.
I ended the night with 274 ounces in the bucket (just over 17 lbs) and I started to worry about the rod which was doubled over :). I believe you could get about 20 lbs with this order, but I need a bigger rod to test my theory, haha.
Things to note, I was getting a little 'grabbing' when flipping the eccentric lever so I flipped the SS yoke over and ended up switching out the pinion with a unit that had beveled edges from an older Jigmaster. 'Grabbing' went away.
Up next for the reel is just an Accuframe and maybe fooling with different handle configurations. I had a ton of fun and learned a bit too! If something sounds wrong please point it out! I'll hopefully be testing this a few times over the summer.
A few pictures from the evening...
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/Test_3_zpsskjhj7rj.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/Test_3_zpsskjhj7rj.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/Test_2_zpszm5og7lm.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/Test_2_zpszm5og7lm.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/test_1_zpsrwltpkdm.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/test_1_zpsrwltpkdm.jpg.html)
Hope this helps someone else out there.
Tight lines!
Great comments, Dan --
You have graduated!
Best,
Fred
Cheetos for days :D :D :D :D :D
YES! My wife is throwing a party Sunday and its based around the color Orange. Pretty funny because at 12:00 am all I wanted was a hand full of that orange goodness.
Thanks for sharing your process. It helps us simpletons and expertons.
Thanks Fred :)
No sweat Bryan - gets hard sometimes trying to figure out "what is the best drop in kit" for some of these reels; and the answer differs person to person. So, it gets fun getting personal with our hobbies.
I'm still a newbie at the building, so this will help me in building a 6/0 next.
Thanks for your report Dan... I'm right behind you ready to jump in on a 501 and 506.
Did a 500 last year but was just the drags.
I don't know what I'm doin but I'm doin..
steve
Some great comments there Dan, clues in there for everyone.
Quote from: coastal_dan on May 14, 2015, 01:35:09 PM
I spent a few hours last night disassembling and reassembling two different Jigmasters (500 and 501) and checking drag numbers. I have Brian's Kit in stock steel gears with PC DD'd bridge kit. I found that no matter what order I was reading from OTHER peoples tests I couldn't get the same. Sal and others have done a marvelous job showing us the best ways, but there are times that depending on the reel the stack may be too tall or too short even using the custom spacers. So, rolled the sleeves up and got to work, haha.
Here is what I found to work for ME...please note that parts vary...reels vary...preferences vary...I think this is going to work for me, but I like the idea of constantly changing it.
First - my style of fishing for this 501 - Deep dropping for sea bass, tile fish, cod and other bottom feeders. It'll be loaded up with 450 yds of 50 lb depth counter PP.
My drag order that I ended my night with....
1)Brians smaller CF washer under the main gear
2)steel main
3)Brians Kit in his specified ordeer
4)Stock keyed washer from the reel
5)Delrin washer from Sal
6)Stock tension spring
7)PC 10.5mm spacer
8)Tension spring from other the other jigmasters drag stack
9)Star
10)Handle
I used a Delrin washer under the main but I was getting a slight grinding when reeling...It may have just needed to be cleaned up, but it seemed to be rubbing on the Double Dogs. Maybe a shim under the sleeve would cure this.
I added the stock keyed washer, Delrin washer, and tension spring in place of the belleville because I was only getting about 12 lbs of drag with the belleville. I believe Keta pointed this out at some point as a fix...could be mistaken.
I ended the night with 274 ounces in the bucket (just over 17 lbs) and I started to worry about the rod which was doubled over :). I believe you could get about 20 lbs with this order, but I need a bigger rod to test my theory, haha.
Things to note, I was getting a little 'grabbing' when flipping the eccentric lever so I flipped the SS yoke over and ended up switching out the pinion with a unit that had beveled edges from an older Jigmaster. 'Grabbing' went away.
Up next for the reel is just an Accuframe and maybe fooling with different handle configurations. I had a ton of fun and learned a bit too! If something sounds wrong please point it out! I'll hopefully be testing this a few times over the summer.
A few pictures from the evening...
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/Test_3_zpsskjhj7rj.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/Test_3_zpsskjhj7rj.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/Test_2_zpszm5og7lm.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/Test_2_zpszm5og7lm.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/test_1_zpsrwltpkdm.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/test_1_zpsrwltpkdm.jpg.html)
Hope this helps someone else out there.
Tight lines!
I'm glad you've found what works best for you, the combinations are endless. We will never be able to determine what is the best drag stack configuration, there are to many options. There is also the versa drag system coming soon from Alan C., that one will change your mind again for sure.
No matter what you chose, as long as the last eared washer is sitting in the gear, anything above the following keyed washer is just a spacer. Nothing complicated here, it is actually very simple.
I do have a few Jigmasters, from my testing on all, i'm going to recommend that you stick with a Delrin washer for under the main gear, your grinding was probably related to the size of that washer. I know that I've sent you a couple, but some were cut too big.
The washer under the gear should work as a bearing, not friction. Delrin is used as bearing material, my dogs actually work better with it.
On the eccentric lever, you will find that all jigmasters will do the same when pushed over 15lbs, its just the way it is. Replacing the yoke doesn't really help, if you try to retrieve some weight at around 15lbs and try to shift it again, you will know what I'm talking about.
Shaving the edge on the squared part of the spool shaft would help it, but it doesn't really bother me, all I do is place my thumb on the spool and is goes right in. My drags are always set very lose at start,, this is one of the reason.
I also want to point out that testing my Jigmasters , I got over 25lbs. I only recommend 20lbs though.
Sal
Thanks for the comments Sal, maybe I'll trim down one of those you sent me to fit.
Hope you guys don't mind me adding some more pictures and notes...figure no need to start a new thread.
Got a frame from Randy, ended up getting a used Tiburon through trade. Very happy and Randy is a pleasure to work with! I did take it a part completely and grease the whole thing, the screws had some salt build up in them so a little wire brushing at all was good. I would recommend doing this even with a new one so you can properly grease everything.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-1_zpsq4itlcxu.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-1_zpsq4itlcxu.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-2_zpsprtgyaoy.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-2_zpsprtgyaoy.jpg.html)
Another thing I noticed was that the washers on the bolts for the rod brace were pushing against the stock trim rings. So, I did a little filing on one side to create a flat edge that could sit against the ring. Worked out quite well.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-5_zpsnbciyhxc.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-5_zpsnbciyhxc.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-3_zpsmi41q4om.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-3_zpsmi41q4om.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-7_zpsbtikfkx9.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-7_zpsbtikfkx9.jpg.html)
Now she is all pretty and ready to fish. Tickled with the result and the red/black combo matches the rod to a 'T'.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-10_zpsfqstxffl.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-10_zpsfqstxffl.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-8_zps2ck2xvzc.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-8_zps2ck2xvzc.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-11_zpsy0w2wuey.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-11_zpsy0w2wuey.jpg.html)
One other small note, I needed to compress the frame ever so slightly to get the holes to line up with the stock rings/side plate. Luckily I had a wood vise and just slight tension lined everything up, I was almost going to give up but thought, 'meh, why not', happy I moved forward for sure :)
Again, hope this info can help another member.
Tight Lines.
Dan, I'm not stopping you from using the carbon fiber washer there, there are some that still like to use it. The bottom line is to use what feels right to you.
That reel look sweet, thanks for sharing and also thanks for your tips.
I'll try both and go from there :)
And thanks for your input along the way, it's been a huge help for for me and many.
Dan that indeed turned out to be a good looking set up. Did I see a 'Sal test wagon' in the back ground, lol?
I asked Alan a couple of weeks ago about the clamp nuts touching the Accurate frames. He told me just get some washers and grind them, so that is a common deal.
Sal, if I could ask about your 'Delrin helping with the dogs' statement.....I am trying to picture how one relates to the other and .........I come up with a blank. Can you expound on that a bit?
Thanks to both of you.
Quote from: Rancanfish on May 19, 2015, 02:06:02 PM
Sal, if I could ask about your 'Delrin helping with the dogs' statement.....I am trying to picture how one relates to the other and .........I come up with a blank. Can you expound on that a bit?
A picture will always explain it better, here you go:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/002_16.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/002_16.jpg.html)
the washer for under the gear sits very close to the dogs, actually right on top, I believe the Delrin washer is helping here.
Here is a photo with the carbon fiber washer instead:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/007_14.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/007_14.jpg.html)
The carbon fiber washer is meant to be used for friction, I haven't heard any complains with the carbon fiber washer there, with that said, I'm sticking with the Delrin as shown above.
Let me be clear, I'm not using the Delrin washer under the gears for the the dogs, I'm a strong believer that the washer for under the gear should work as a bearing, not friction.
Sal
Ah, more of a case of not creating an issue with the dogs then.
Thanks for that.
If I wanted to go Delrin I'd have to find them in bulk, lol. I have 9 different Jigmasters in different configurations. Then find time to switch them all. (Busy season now).
Randy, Which gear sleeve did you buy from Alan? If you purchased Gen2, we solved the carbon fiber issue by providing a thin SS washer and thin CF washer to go under the gear. The thin SS washer will stop the CF washer from interfering with the anti-reverse dogs, and the thin CF washer between the main gear and the thin SS washer will provide you with an added full CF surface changing your drag set up to a full 4-stack or 6-stack depending if you have 3 or 5 CF in the main gear, respectively.
Of you would like to purchase Delrin, Dawn of SmoothDrags have them for sale. Just contact her info@smoothdrag.com and let her know what you need, what reel it's used for and arrange payment once she has a total. I believe she accepts paypal too.
Bryan I got gen I, but you got them for me. ;D That's the first sign right there buddy.
When you get my age you can't remember if you sent them or not!
Thanks for the info, I'm getting it slow but sure.
Quote from: coastal_dan on May 19, 2015, 01:10:15 PM
Thanks for the comments Sal, maybe I'll trim down one of those you sent me to fit.
Hope you guys don't mind me adding some more pictures and notes...figure no need to start a new thread.
Got a frame from Randy, ended up getting a used Tiburon through trade. Very happy and Randy is a pleasure to work with! I did take it a part completely and grease the whole thing, the screws had some salt build up in them so a little wire brushing at all was good. I would recommend doing this even with a new one so you can properly grease everything.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-1_zpsq4itlcxu.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-1_zpsq4itlcxu.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-2_zpsprtgyaoy.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-2_zpsprtgyaoy.jpg.html)
Another thing I noticed was that the washers on the bolts for the rod brace were pushing against the stock trim rings. So, I did a little filing on one side to create a flat edge that could sit against the ring. Worked out quite well.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-5_zpsnbciyhxc.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-5_zpsnbciyhxc.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-3_zpsmi41q4om.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-3_zpsmi41q4om.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-7_zpsbtikfkx9.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-7_zpsbtikfkx9.jpg.html)
Now she is all pretty and ready to fish. Tickled with the result and the red/black combo matches the rod to a 'T'.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-10_zpsfqstxffl.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-10_zpsfqstxffl.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-8_zps2ck2xvzc.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-8_zps2ck2xvzc.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-11_zpsy0w2wuey.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-11_zpsy0w2wuey.jpg.html)
One other small note, I needed to compress the frame ever so slightly to get the holes to line up with the stock rings/side plate. Luckily I had a wood vise and just slight tension lined everything up, I was almost going to give up but thought, 'meh, why not', happy I moved forward for sure :)
Again, hope this info can help another member.
Tight Lines.
I like the combination of red/black in a lot of things, this one looks sweet 8), the handle/knob does it
What's the rod ? Looks familiar
Marc..
Quote from: Alto Mare on May 19, 2015, 02:36:22 PM
Quote from: Rancanfish on May 19, 2015, 02:06:02 PM
Sal, if I could ask about your 'Delrin helping with the dogs' statement.....I am trying to picture how one relates to the other and .........I come up with a blank. Can you expound on that a bit?
A picture will always explain it better, here you go:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/002_16.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/002_16.jpg.html)
the washer for under the gear sits very close to the dogs, actually right on top, I believe the Delrin washer is helping here.
Here is a photo with the carbon fiber washer instead:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/007_14.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/007_14.jpg.html)
The carbon fiber washer is meant to be used for friction, I haven't heard any complains with the carbon fiber washer there, with that said, I'm sticking with the Delrin as shown above.
Let me be clear, I'm not using the Delrin washer under the gears for the the dogs, I'm a strong believer that the washer for under the gear should work as a bearing, not friction.
Sal
Hey Sal
That bridge plate looks different then the one that black pearl puts out. Was that the proto type?
Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on May 21, 2015, 07:39:43 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on May 19, 2015, 02:36:22 PM
Quote from: Rancanfish on May 19, 2015, 02:06:02 PM
Sal, if I could ask about your 'Delrin helping with the dogs' statement.....I am trying to picture how one relates to the other and .........I come up with a blank. Can you expound on that a bit?
A picture will always explain it better, here you go:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/002_16.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/002_16.jpg.html)
the washer for under the gear sits very close to the dogs, actually right on top, I believe the Delrin washer is helping here.
Here is a photo with the carbon fiber washer instead:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/007_14.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/007_14.jpg.html)
The carbon fiber washer is meant to be used for friction, I haven't heard any complains with the carbon fiber washer there, with that said, I'm sticking with the Delrin as shown above.
Let me be clear, I'm not using the Delrin washer under the gears for the the dogs, I'm a strong believer that the washer for under the gear should work as a bearing, not friction.
Sal
Hey Sal
That bridge plate looks different then the one that black pearl puts out. Was that the proto type?
Hi Jason,
I will answer that. There were 2 sets samples was sent to Sal at the beginning. So, the answer is yes. Everything were stainless steel on that plate. Every parts were cut by hand.
Marc - Jigging World Tile/Tuna rod (they are currently on sale for $119.99). It's not quite rated what its advertised as, but darn close. Rod says 3oz - 8 oz, website says 8 oz - 5 lbs...but the tip just barely moves with a 24 oz bank sinker on. I now have two of these and look forward to putting them to the test.
Hey Sal, I used a Penn washer(white, delrin maybe?) from a 704 drag kit under my main gear, wondering if these Penn washers are the same as the delrin ones you are using? I think this was brought up before but soon as my parts come in I'll try it out.
Quote from: Fishit 2 on May 31, 2015, 12:48:19 PM
Hey Sal, I used a Penn washer(white, delrin maybe?) from a 704 drag kit under my main gear, wondering if these Penn washers are the same as the delrin ones you are using? I think this was brought up before but soon as my parts come in I'll try it out.
I think that washer is Teflon.
I had the exact same problem with the last Tiburon Frame that I bought and also had to file down the washers to keep from pinching the rings.
Quote from: coastal_dan on May 19, 2015, 01:10:15 PM
Thanks for the comments Sal, maybe I'll trim down one of those you sent me to fit.
Hope you guys don't mind me adding some more pictures and notes...figure no need to start a new thread.
Got a frame from Randy, ended up getting a used Tiburon through trade. Very happy and Randy is a pleasure to work with! I did take it a part completely and grease the whole thing, the screws had some salt build up in them so a little wire brushing at all was good. I would recommend doing this even with a new one so you can properly grease everything.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-1_zpsq4itlcxu.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-1_zpsq4itlcxu.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-2_zpsprtgyaoy.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-2_zpsprtgyaoy.jpg.html)
Another thing I noticed was that the washers on the bolts for the rod brace were pushing against the stock trim rings. So, I did a little filing on one side to create a flat edge that could sit against the ring. Worked out quite well.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-5_zpsnbciyhxc.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-5_zpsnbciyhxc.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-3_zpsmi41q4om.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-3_zpsmi41q4om.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-7_zpsbtikfkx9.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-7_zpsbtikfkx9.jpg.html)
Now she is all pretty and ready to fish. Tickled with the result and the red/black combo matches the rod to a 'T'.
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-10_zpsfqstxffl.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-10_zpsfqstxffl.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-8_zps2ck2xvzc.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-8_zps2ck2xvzc.jpg.html)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg170/funferdriver/501-11_zpsy0w2wuey.jpg) (http://s248.photobucket.com/user/funferdriver/media/501-11_zpsy0w2wuey.jpg.html)
One other small note, I needed to compress the frame ever so slightly to get the holes to line up with the stock rings/side plate. Luckily I had a wood vise and just slight tension lined everything up, I was almost going to give up but thought, 'meh, why not', happy I moved forward for sure :)
Again, hope this info can help another member.
Tight Lines.
Aloha, I'm looking for a fine thread stainless steel gear sleeve for jigmaster 500 any help please. Mahalo.
Quote from: Fublown on November 01, 2015, 03:31:06 AM
Aloha, I'm looking for a fine thread stainless steel gear sleeve for jigmaster 500 any help please. Mahalo.
I have few. Please check out the following link.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=14738.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=14738.0)
Just got a jig master 500s (used, with the takedown screw on the non-handle side) and it has one problem. When I tighten the drag and then pull out line, the handle binds at a certain spot every time I turn the handle. It binds for maybe 1/4 turn, the other 3/4 of the revolution is normal. The reel doesn't do this when the drag is loose, or if I don't pull out line. Any ideas on how to fix this?
first the quick fix. back of the star all the way, then crank the handle a half dozen times, then button down the star and try it again. sometimes the spacing sleeve is off center a little.
if that doesn't work, it will need to come apart again, and put back together in steps, until the problem is found. :-\
So I finally found the problem. The main gear was rubbing against the side plate. I needed to use a dremel to grind away part of the side plate to provide clearance for the gear. It's odd, though, because that means that the gear must not be quite round, or the hole was drilled off center-either way, a defect. And the previous owner probably fished it for years without doing anything! ???
i don't suppose there were TWO drag washers under the main gear?
Is the post on the bridge loose or at an angle? It should be 90 deg. From the bridge plate. Other than that, what Alan is referring to is that the gear is sitting too high. You may need to use a thinner under gear washer.
The bridge seems to be tight, and there is 1 drag washer under the gear.
Kind of off topic, but holy crap this thread has nearly 100k views...Is the Jigmaster the most commonly modded/worked on reel Penn has made? Of course the Senator series as a whole is their best seller, but I wonder about individual reels, the 4/0 may have it beat...
IMO, Dan --
Hard to beat a Jig Master.
Yes, there are more specialized Reels in the Penn line -- and each has its place.
However, considering the possibilities --
Great stock reel -- 4:1, solid, simple, good for many salt water applications ranging from boat, dropping, jigging, surf, pier -- long lasting, durable, and a good value.
Easy to clean, service on the fly, switch out spools with fresh line, and the ability to effectively target and handle so many different types of heavy fish.
Like many of us, having done hundreds, if not thousands of repairs, service, and mods on these over the years -- the Jig Master demands and has earned our respect.
Plus, the mods on these are effective and useful to further improve their versatility.
A capable reel.
The reel that "Won the West" -- along with the rest of the world.
Too many folks make the mistake of underestimating this reel -- probably because of its low cost, and simplicity.
Best,
Fred
I've just scanned through this thread...and I see some of my questions have been answered, but, I have a couple more things I'm in a "quandary" about. I just received a 500 Jigger, that has been "downsized" to 501 width, and with only two exceptions, all the components are in reasonably good condition. First problem, the end of the gear sleeve is rounded off...and , since I need to replace it, I figure I might as well take the plunge for a stainless one, so....fine tooth? , coarse tooth ?...what I have seems to be 24TPI...is that the fine?, or the coarse ? I *think*it's the "coarse" one, as a 4/0 special I have on the bench has a much "finer" thread ???
Second issue....the reel has carbon fiber discs, but the washers are brass....and very badly "galled", even though the discs look in "new" condition. So, I plan on a new HT 100 kit, BUT....would it make sense to spring for Bryan's 5- stack ? The bronze gear looks to be in A-1 shape, and the gearing seems nice and tight, and smooth, with no noise. Can I 5 - stack the stock gears ? I doubt I'll ever "need" that much drag, but, it would seem to me that the 5, would be a "smoother" set up, than the three...with much less pressure needed on the stack, to achieve the same "poundage" ?
I got the reel for, what seems to me to be, a pretty good price....$32 , delivered, and while it only has the chromed brass (or maybe stainless ?) spool, it will be OK, for me. The reel has "some" corrosion on the stand, and the posts have even more, but, I did manage to pick up a "package deal", of two "bars", a stand, and a reel clamp ($20.80, in my hand), so, with those additions, this will *probably* be the nicest looking reel in my collection, and I guess I can justify spending a few more $ than I usually do ??? I'm guessing that with the narrow frame, and bars, instead of posts...it *should * be a pretty tough little customer ! Thanks !
You have the coarse tooth gear sleeve and Alan's gear sleeve always makes sense to me because it makes the reel much smoother. I don't know why that is it just is.
You would be fine, forever, with a new set of SS washers. However, Brian's kit will increase the smoothness of the reel up to the drag numbers of the factory drag. The 5 stack CAN be fished at a level that would wear through those brass gears very fast unless you never fish with that much drag.
With narrow frame, bars and 3 disks this is a 40-50# line reel that will catch the overwhelming majority of fish caught bu sportsmen on rod and reel in the salt. The 5 stack would let you get away with heavier line but I'm afraid the brass gears wouldn't like it for very long. If you like the 4:1 speed, and with a chrome spool it sounds like the speed would be fine, you can find a steel Penn 4:1 gear for cheap that will let you take full advantage of the 5 stack drag.
Yes, you can mod a Jigmaster to be more expensive than modern reels that are just as capable, but then they wouldn't be modded Jigmasters.
Ron
If your brass gear sleeve has rounded, my first recommendation would be a stainless steel gear sleeve with a larger star from Penn 66 for course or 505 for fine thread. Second would be carbon fiber drag washers, either 3-stack or 5-stack. If you go with an3-stack, the brass washers are fine. Then all you need are replacement HT-100s or Carbontex washers.
The brass gears are good for 15#-18#, which is plenty useable drag for this reel.
Regarding fine vs course gear sleeves, I like fine because it's easier to set the drag pressure since the drag increases more gradual.
I went with Motiv Fabs Newell style star and I like it much better than the Penn stars. It's bigger in diameter and it's easier to crank down on the drag. I have the fine thread stainless gear sleeve in mine.
Thanks, Guys ! What about the dog ? Should I go with a stainless, because of the stainless gear sleeve ? Or will the brass dog hold up ? Seems it would tend to get "chewed" a bit more against the harder stainless ?!
Yes. If you are going with a stainless steel sleeve, down the extra $5 for the SS dog.
Hey all,
Just thought I would get in the fun. I have a jigmaster that I bought way back in 2005 and did some partial modding to. I remember Alan Tani telling me I shouldn't drop so much money in the 500 and spend it elsewhere, but I didn't listen. Anyway, I digress. I stopped the project and life changed and I never got to fish it really. But as things do, life changed again and I am living back near the coast in central CA (Lompoc to be exact) and I now have the opportunity to get back on the salt (albiet without my kayak which life made me sell :( ) So........ Back to the project:
Current state:
Tiburon P20 frame
Bakelite side plates
Newel 5:1 SS gears
SS yolk, bridge, and gear sleave
Carbontex washers/drag discs (3+1)
Just ordered:
Double dog SS bridge
5+1 drag kit upgrade
I looked for Accurate plates but they are hard to find and very expensive. I reached out to Cortez Conversions, but they won't have side plates ready till the end of the year.... So it looks like I'll wait on those.
The rod it is currently paired with is a Shakespeare Ugly Stick Tiger 7' Aluminum Oxide 20-50# rod. Right now I have a stock black spool with 30# mono and a Red spool with 50# braid and 30# leader.
When my new parts get in, I'll post up pics as I break the whole thing down and rebuild it.
Can you get ball bearings that will fit in the bakelite end caps?
MolBasser
Welcome from Santa Barbara. Probably a good thing you don't have the kayak, Surf beach is the home of that giant white shark that's developed a taste for them. Taco Loco still there?make a mean chile relleno
Three guys in my old kayak club have been hit by great whites in the Monterrey area.....
MolBasser
Haven't been to taco loco yet. If you are in the area drop into the brewery. I'm the new master brewer at Solvang brewing company.
MBasser
Will do, we get up there for work now and then. I'll PM you,Thanks
No worries. I'll buy you a beer.
:)
MolBAsser
I have a question also.
The two spools that I have for this reel behave a bit differently. The both spin freely in free spool with zero wobble or anything noticably different, but in gear the red spool is louder and sometimes has a little "stickynes" at one point in the turn of the handle.
I see no obvious defects.... it is just weird.
MolBasser
Check the inside a the spool flange on the head-plate side. Sometimes the it can rub on somethin like bridge plate screw-ends.
Solvang Brewery, so it's Danish beer? That's the name of that Dansk(Danish) themed tourist town somewhere down there on Hwy. 101. Went through there once. Cheese and custom cutlery seemed to be best stuff to me, but everything was expensive.
Might be the red one is a hint out of round by one of the edges? I'm assuming it's aluminum. Might be a little dent that's not really visible
Solvang is strange. Not sure why it's there but there's likely some story there. To me it's just irritating to have to slow down to 25 on the highway. Sure packs in the tourists though
No shortage of breweries up there. It's getting pretty popular. I guess to goes hand in hand with the wineries
Got my new parts, and found a pair of side plates!!!!! So stoked. Gonna order the plates this week. Still gotta lick the wounds from doing my taxes, but payday is coming up. This jigmaster is gonna be tight. And loudly colorful. I get my braid line today (multicolor 50# braid by Kast King) so I'll spool up the red spool with the braid and leave the 30# mono on the black spool. Hopefully the new bridge and drag stack will even out whatever funny thing is going on with the red spool.... Who knows but this thing will be a light tuna slayer in no time.
Oh, I also got my prescription for promethazine so we will see how well I can do in the water to actually use this thing.. lol.
MolBasser
MolBasser,
Compare the OD of your pinion-side spool shaft on both spools. A couple of thousandths difference could put a little more contact pressure between your pinion and main gear and could cause the different feel between the two spools. Also make certain your gear teeth are very clean, a little gunk of corrosion will exaggerate the feel on the spool with tighter contact.
Mike
Thanks man, I'll check that.
This site is awesome.
MolBasser
Molbasser, you might also consider checking Cortez Classic Jiggy full kit instead of buying plates...they are FANTASTIC and have bearings....then you can sell your P21 to offset cost. or more likely keep it for next jigger :)
I just made a deal on some green side plates.....
Its gonna look tight with the red frame yellow handle with the multicolor braid line.
super psychedelic! That and the pure stainless steel guts and 5+1 drag and this is gonna be a beast!
MolBasser
Nice green is prolly my favorite...If Tom makes green CC kits I'll get a full set!
Quote from: thorhammer on April 17, 2018, 11:40:19 PM
Nice green is prolly my favorite...If Tom makes green CC kits I'll get a full set!
Molbasser, let me know if you decide to unload your P21 frame!
I just have the p20. No other frame.
Molbasser
Some of my friends ask me why I'm tossing enough money into this reel to buy prolly two "modern" reels.
I tell them because it is fun. Fiddling with stuff and making it "better" is fun for me. Learning how things work is fun for me. So it isn't that I could have saved money and gotten a "better" reel (that is up for debate), but that I enjoy myself doing it.
My girlfriend shakes her head but gets it and lets me do my thing even though she always sees new fishing things come in the mail.
I pay my bills and keep my home. My hobby is that.
MolBasser
Quote from: MolBasser on April 20, 2018, 10:22:05 PM
Some of my friends ask me why I'm tossing enough money into this reel to buy prolly two "modern" reels.
I tell them because it is fun. Fiddling with stuff and making it "better" is fun for me. Learning how things work is fun for me. So it isn't that I could have saved money and gotten a "better" reel (that is up for debate), but that I enjoy myself doing it.
My girlfriend shakes her head but gets it and lets me do my thing even though she always sees new fishing things come in the mail.
I pay my bills and keep my home. My hobby is that.
MolBasser
And your reel will be around for the grandkids to fish it after all the right parts go under the hood.
Many will look at the reel and see a relic. A relic that will out power many modern day designs and won't
break when pushed.
IMO modern day reels are not better. It's all about the marketing and sales.
Give me a Penn reel any day!
Whats really killing me is all of the Photobucket images are blacked out. About 6 months ago, I get a message on them saying something about 3rd party hosting.
So it hurts to look back at all of these old threads and try to imagine what I'm missing ???
-gary
So got my plates.
I have a bunch of pictures I will post but I came across a problem I want to sleep on (I have other stuff to do anyway).
Everything assembled fine. I screw in the bridge with all the goo and should be good to go. Everything spins like it should, the freespool lever does its thing the yolk and etc. working.
I screw down the 4 screws to get this assembly into the sideplate, tighten completely and now movement is fubar and bleh. Loosen this four screws to tighten the bridge assembly and it gets loose again.
I'm guessing that the dragstack is tall and it is the source of friction as I have not put the star on yet.......
Anyway. Pics tomorrow. Its gonna be tight.
MolBasser
With all the custom parts most take some kind of tweaking to get them perfect. Just did a 500 with plates and a newell graphite spool. It was giving me fits for a week But I finally found the right tweak. Stick with it.
Sometimes the bridge screws are a taste too long and need to be filed down a little, could be the drag stack too, just a process of elimination. There's a tiny shim/washer that came with the kit that slides on the spool shaft, not likely it's that if it's completely bound up but it might be be.
You'll get it,just keep at it
MolBasser,
Which sideplates and bridge are you running? I'm assuming Cortez plates...are you running a double-dog bridge?
Quote from: PacRat on April 22, 2018, 06:12:32 PM
MolBasser,
Which sideplates and bridge are you running? I'm assuming Cortez plates...are you running a double-dog bridge?
Yeah, when I put the plates in I switched bridges to a double dog bridge from Smooth Drag (well, they sold it to me I doubt they make it).
I'm gonna go back to the original bridge because the double dogs actually grip at the same time with my gear post. I was hoping they would alternate and shorten the reverse before locking but no dice. I will pirate the stainless dog to replace the brass one on my other stainless bridge (why that one didn't come with a stainless dog is sort of a mystery. I bought it in 2005 and I can't remember exactly what it came with.
And yes. Cortez plates.
MolBasser
Quote from: MolBasser on April 22, 2018, 06:30:50 PM
Quote from: PacRat on April 22, 2018, 06:12:32 PM
MolBasser,
Which sideplates and bridge are you running? I'm assuming Cortez plates...are you running a double-dog bridge?
Yeah, when I put the plates in I switched bridges to a double dog bridge from Smooth Drag (well, they sold it to me I doubt they make it).
I'm gonna go back to the original bridge because the double dogs actually grip at the same time with my gear post. I was hoping they would alternate and shorten the reverse before locking but no dice. I will pirate the stainless dog to replace the brass one on my other stainless bridge (why that one didn't come with a stainless dog is sort of a mystery. I bought it in 2005 and I can't remember exactly what it came with.
And yes. Cortez plates.
MolBasser
Penn never made a stainless steel bridge in JigMaster. The stainless steel bridge you got from SmoothDrag is from me. You will not be able to use my stainless dog in your original bridge.
I got the bridge aftermarket. I think it was made for a newell and came with the stainless gearpost. The dog pin, dog spring pin, and dog on this bridge are all brass. I still have original brass bridge.
Is there a known issue with cortez plates and the double dog bridge?
MolBasser
Quote from: MolBasser on April 22, 2018, 07:25:51 PM
I got the bridge aftermarket. I think it was made for a newell and came with the stainless gearpost. The dog pin, dog spring pin, and dog on this bridge are all brass. I still have original brass bridge.
Is there a known issue with cortez plates and the double dog bridge?
MolBasser
All bridge come with a stainless steel gear post, brass and stainless.
I only know of 3 bridge, Penn, ProGear ( a while back) and Prochallenger.
The only double dog stainless steel bridge out of the 3 is the Prochallenger bridge.
Yes there is a small issue with the accurate plates, Tom's plates are very close to accurate, so there will also be the same issue using his plates.
One of the dog hits a little, it is actually workable, but you could feel the small bump. This should eventually work itself out, but you could take care of it by shaving 1/32" where I'm showing.
(https://i.imgur.com/qsCd8aO.jpg)
If your issue is with using the brass bridge, this would be the first on me.
Sal
"one dog hits" this explains some behavior of the reel.
I think I might solve this issue going back to the single dog bridge. I'll post pics later. I haven't been on a real forum in a while so I"m relearning syntax and stuff.
MolBaser
MolBasser; If the double dog bridge engages with the two dogs at the same rotation of the gear sleeve, I do not see the problem. It supposed to do that to reinforce the anti reverse with the added Drag system, which is a five stack drag system.
If you want the dogs to alternate then I would figure out how to shorten one of the dogs.
Joe
Yeah, that is the answer to the double dog issue.
More importantly is getting the reel to run smooth. I'll spend some time carefully tracking it down. It is clearly related to the tight pull on the bridge set into the plate.
MOlBasser
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 23, 2018, 12:45:47 AM
We all learn from each other here.
Personally I would keep the double dog bridge, sanding the tip on that dog only takes a couple of seconds.
Good luck with wathever you decide and hopefully it will work for you.
Sal
As I learned from you and others on site. How to modify reels and parts. As you said Sal we all have had experience on the learning curve. ;) ;D
Joe
I'm not gonna get crazy till I understand the actuall problem.
It might take a bit of time or whatever, but everything has a reason. That is why science rocks.
I'll figure it out and get a solution.
MolBasser
Good luck, I'm sure you will figure it out.
Joe
Its all good.
I like figuring stuff like this out. One thing is that I'm not on forums much anymore and I need to re-boot my photobucket account... lol.
MolBasser
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 22, 2018, 09:59:20 PM
Quote from: MolBasser on April 22, 2018, 07:25:51 PM
I got the bridge aftermarket. I think it was made for a newell and came with the stainless gearpost. The dog pin, dog spring pin, and dog on this bridge are all brass. I still have original brass bridge.
Is there a known issue with cortez plates and the double dog bridge?
MolBasser
All bridge come with a stainless steel gear post, brass and stainless.
I only know of 3 bridge, Penn, ProGear ( a while back) and Prochallenger.
The only double dog stainless steel bridge out of the 3 is the Prochallenger bridge.
Yes there is a small issue with the accurate plates, Tom's plates are very close to accurate, so there will also be the same issue using his plates.
One of the dog hits a little, it is actually workable, but you could feel the small bump. This should eventually work itself out, but you could take care of it by shaving 1/32" where I'm showing.
(https://i.imgur.com/qsCd8aO.jpg)
If your issue is with using the brass bridge, this would be the first on me.
Sal
This is conceptually strange to me. All that is, is the "hook" for the dog spring.... It is far away from any other action in the assembly and I have no idea how shaving that bit would do anything.
Also, haven't thought or looked at it enough for that to be a qualified idea..... Just thinking off of my head. I haven't worked on these reels enough to have any of that set in memory.
MolBasser
Quote from: MolBasser on April 23, 2018, 04:55:14 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 22, 2018, 09:59:20 PM
Quote from: MolBasser on April 22, 2018, 07:25:51 PM
I got the bridge aftermarket. I think it was made for a newell and came with the stainless gearpost. The dog pin, dog spring pin, and dog on this bridge are all brass. I still have original brass bridge.
Is there a known issue with cortez plates and the double dog bridge?
MolBasser
All bridge come with a stainless steel gear post, brass and stainless.
I only know of 3 bridge, Penn, ProGear ( a while back) and Prochallenger.
The only double dog stainless steel bridge out of the 3 is the Prochallenger bridge.
Yes there is a small issue with the accurate plates, Tom's plates are very close to accurate, so there will also be the same issue using his plates.
One of the dog hits a little, it is actually workable, but you could feel the small bump. This should eventually work itself out, but you could take care of it by shaving 1/32" where I'm showing.
(https://i.imgur.com/qsCd8aO.jpg)
If your issue is with using the brass bridge, this would be the first on me.
Sal
This is conceptually strange to me. All that is, is the "hook" for the dog spring.... It is far away from any other action in the assembly and I have no idea how shaving that bit would do anything.
Also, haven't thought or looked at it enough for that to be a qualified idea..... Just thinking off of my head. I haven't worked on these reels enough to have any of that set in memory.
MolBasser
Hi there,
That is the known issue on that dog when my Stainless steel bridge is used in Accurate's or Tom's sideplate.
Quote from: Black Pearl on April 23, 2018, 05:10:28 PM
Quote from: MolBasser on April 23, 2018, 04:55:14 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 22, 2018, 09:59:20 PM
Quote from: MolBasser on April 22, 2018, 07:25:51 PM
I got the bridge aftermarket. I think it was made for a newell and came with the stainless gearpost. The dog pin, dog spring pin, and dog on this bridge are all brass. I still have original brass bridge.
Is there a known issue with cortez plates and the double dog bridge?
MolBasser
All bridge come with a stainless steel gear post, brass and stainless.
I only know of 3 bridge, Penn, ProGear ( a while back) and Prochallenger.
The only double dog stainless steel bridge out of the 3 is the Prochallenger bridge.
Yes there is a small issue with the accurate plates, Tom's plates are very close to accurate, so there will also be the same issue using his plates.
One of the dog hits a little, it is actually workable, but you could feel the small bump. This should eventually work itself out, but you could take care of it by shaving 1/32" where I'm showing.
(https://i.imgur.com/qsCd8aO.jpg)
If your issue is with using the brass bridge, this would be the first on me.
Sal
This is conceptually strange to me. All that is, is the "hook" for the dog spring.... It is far away from any other action in the assembly and I have no idea how shaving that bit would do anything.
Also, haven't thought or looked at it enough for that to be a qualified idea..... Just thinking off of my head. I haven't worked on these reels enough to have any of that set in memory.
MolBasser
Hi there,
That is the known issue on that dog when my Stainless steel bridge is used in Accurate's or Tom's sideplate.
OK! Cool. I have something to do now with my dremel. I'll do that presently.
MolBasser
And Black Pearl,
At no time was I ever dissing your bridge or anything. Just trying to get stuff put together.
I appreciate all those that work hard to make aftermarket parts that improve performance and make a better tool.
I'm just a newbie, so my installs need a bit more love and understanding as I'm not an old salt on reel repair.
MolBasser
I read somewhere here that the double dog bridge will engage the dogs differently depending on which gear sleeve is used (SS or stock). With one it alternates, the other engages simultaneously. Not sure which does which.
8 tooth holds on one dog at a time.
10 tooth both dogs at same time.
-gary
Quote from: Gman_WC on April 23, 2018, 11:56:01 PM
8 tooth holds on one dog at a time.
10 tooth both dogs at same time.
-gary
Ah-ha! Thanks.
Quote from: Gman_WC on April 23, 2018, 11:56:01 PM
8 tooth holds on one dog at a time.
10 tooth both dogs at same time.
-gary
Problem solved. ;D
Joe
I received the Pro Challenger JM500X kit last night.
Can't wait to get it installed. Upgrading from 8 tooth ss gear sleeve and CF drags
to the newer config.
-g
Sal and Joe are giving good advice. All of these aftermarket parts are made with very tight tolerances and may or may not require fitting. When parts from three manufacturers come together there will usually be some minor issues. Filing, sanding or stoning that little nub on the dog is necessary in some combinations of parts because some gear-sleeve ratchet ODs are slightly larger (I don't remember which but it is covered on this site). If you want your dogs to alternate; shortening one of the dogs will do the trick. I believe that if you shorten the dog in Sal's photo you may not need to address the nub as the binding occurs as the dog traverses the tip of the AR ratchet tooth on the gear-sleeve; the larger OD gear-sleeve ratchet pushes the nub into the edge of side-plate dog cut-out. That nub on the dog binds against the cut-out on the aluminum side plates and a slightly shorter dog will likely not bind. The difference of just a few thousandths can be felt when you crank the reel. Remember to go slow and remove just a little material at a time then test fit. You will feel the difference each time if you are removing material in the right places. A wise machinist once taught me to be patient and go slow because it's always easier to remove a little more material than it is to put some back on.
Have fun, learn lots
Mike
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=16099.180
Review this thread. The double-dog issue is first discussed on page 13 and the gear-sleeve issue is addressed on page 16. I never fixed my photo bucket account but you can download a free patch that will allow you to see photobucket photos on any site. That's what I'm doing for now.
Awesome.
Praise the Flying Spaghetti Monster for the internet.
I'll look at all that and review that thread. I'm just going to go slow and get it all awesome....
MolBasser
Quote from: PacRat on April 24, 2018, 04:10:29 PM
Sal and Joe are giving good advice. All of these aftermarket parts are made with very tight tolerances and may or may not require fitting. When parts from three manufacturers come together there will usually be some minor issues. Filing, sanding or stoning that little nub on the dog is necessary in some combinations of parts because some gear-sleeve ratchet ODs are slightly larger (I don't remember which but it is covered on this site). If you want your dogs to alternate; shortening one of the dogs will do the trick. I believe that if you shorten the dog in Sal's photo you may not need to address the nub as the binding occurs as the dog traverses the tip of the AR ratchet tooth on the gear-sleeve; the larger OD gear-sleeve ratchet pushes the nub into the edge of side-plate dog cut-out. That nub on the dog binds against the cut-out on the aluminum side plates and a slightly shorter dog will likely not bind. The difference of just a few thousandths can be felt when you crank the reel. Remember to go slow and remove just a little material at a time then test fit. You will feel the difference each time if you are removing material in the right places. A wise machinist once taught me to be patient and go slow because it's always easier to remove a little more material than it is to put some back on.
Have fun, learn lots
Mike
This is wise and I agree.
MolBasser
I have been remiss on follow up.
Lot's of stuff going on at the Brewery so less time to futz with fishing reels. I will try and post up pictures tomorrow. I'm also dealing with a broken washing machine. Anyone know about Kenmore washers? lol.
MolBasser
if it's an older model mechanical control washer likely just a part or 2. If it's newer good luck, likely the mother board.
Even the boards aren't that hard. YouTube is your friend!
Ron
I was trying to paint Jigmaster side plates. They faded in 30 years.
Any recommendations.
Thanks
;D....I would say if thats what it looks like after 30 years, then keep on fishing it!!!!!
Brett
Honestly, repainting or stripping, it's not going to look that much better for very long because of the tight clearances and the wear on the paint. If the appearance bothers you, repaint.
Do you also grease the under gear washer or leave it dry? Setup I went with is detailed here using the 6113 as under gear washer and HT-100's in gear.
i use a carbontex drag washer under the main gear and either three penn or carbontex drag washers inside the main gear, and grease all four washers.
The bottom side of the gear has been a corrosion magnet for me and some gears offa used reels I've bought have pitting from past problems. Since I wanted as little friction down there as possible, and a thrust bearing-like effect from that special washer material( delrin or phenolic), I didn't lube it in the past. Now I do. Gears are expensive.
I have brown plastic looking bearings on one of my Jigmaster-where are they from? Seem very smooth.
Quote from: Rusty hook on April 04, 2019, 06:59:53 PM
I have brown plastic looking bearings on one of my Jigmaster-where are they from? Seem very smooth.
Rusty, I believe those are Newell bearings, I have one reel that has them too, and yes they're very smooth!
Yep, sounds like the Newell bushings. Keep them on there. They're smooth!
Dom
QuoteYep, sounds like the Newell bushings. Keep them on there. They're smooth!
Dom
X3. I think they're pretty hard to replace also!
Mike
Anyone recognize this jigmaster gear? I got it on a jigmaster 500 from eBay and have 5 others(mostly jig 500 or 501) but this is the first I've seen that has an indention on the underwasher side. It also seems like it could be stainless as it's much shinier than other steel gears I have.
Other question. This is the only reel I have that I can just slightly shift the spool towards the right plate which causes it to bind. It did this with the plastic soool it came with as well as another aluminum that does not do this in the other 500/501's. I did not compare the pinions to see if the one it came with matched my others yet. Is this an upgraded/aftermarket gear or did some jig masters come with the indention from factory.
Other than it not coming with only 1 upper bridge screw(I just put one from my other reels to test it) it's in very nice condition after a deep clean(which had what appeared to be caulking or something as lube, it was horrible to scrape off!)
Sorry forgot to post the pocs
newell made a gear with an undercut like that, but that does not look like a newell gear. :-\
That is an earlier Penn gear. Run into a few, especially Surfmasters and Squidders.
Sal
By the way, those are chromed steel gears and not stainless steel.
They're very durable unless the chrome peels off.
Actually they would still be durable if that happens, but you would need to deal with rust.
I do see the chrome starting to wear, a good coating of grease would keep them nice.
I have one or two of those. I always thought the undercut allowed Penn to use one size undergear washer for the smaller reels and Jigmasters.
Ron Jones
I know this is a very old thread but I'm posting this here anyway. Seems like some jigmaster nuts on this one.
I have an old early jigmaster. Took it down and it's got clear plastic looking washers in place of the drag washers. Is this something factory or did someone try to replace the drags with whatever they had laying around? Reel did not turn very well. Box is the green surf guy box marked 500M. It has the undercut main gear. Unmarked left side plate.
Thanks in advance for your time!
Tim O
Someone's attempt to change out the drags, Tim —-
After a complete cleanup and restoration, my recommendation would be CF drag washers with Cal's drag grease, plus a greased CF as the under gear washer —- or a Delrin, non-greased.
The CF's are available through Bryan, Mystic, Smooth Drag, or Penn. All are solid contributing members of our site.
Best, Fred
Hi Tim, like Fred said, those aren't stock drag washers. You say it came in the green 2-piece box ? That is a first year only box (1959). The correct jigmaster for that box would have a sticker on the headplate instead of the stamped logo. The 500M means the correct reel for that box originally came with a metal spool. Most likely a 3piece chrome spool
Thanks for the replies gentlemen.
I had a couple packs of old Newell drag sets laying around so I put one of those in. Pic of the box is attached. The reel foot and the crossbars as well as the spool show pitting. Someone left old nylon line on it and it held the salt etc... IMG_3319.jpg Sideplates and side metal (handle, drag star, shift lever, etc...) are great. I ended up with two reels and the box. Both reels are same vintage. The other reel is a bit more rough.
All the main parts I saw when I took it apart were numbered.
Hey Tim! How about that Abu in back! Love those.
John
I wouldn't use the Newell drag washers... greased Penn HT-100's or Smoothdrag Carbontex are much better!
Mark, I agree that the carbontex is better in a working reel. I've been putting them into my own stuff when it's time to change them out. This one will probably just sit so any drag washers will be better than the plastic things that came out of it. At least now the handle will turn properly if someone picks it up.
Thorhammer, Good eye! That Abu 6500C may be going up for sale. The dirtier one sold already. It came in in the same batch. The one in the picture has a 1966 imprint on the foot. it appears unfished or if so, very lightly fished by a grandma or something. Lol. It's really clean. There were two in a box of stuff that came from an ex-neighbor. Lots of interesting things in the box. The 500 in box in my post, another of same era that's a little rougher. Two very clean 209M Peer reels (one in box), two of the 1966 Abu 6500C 9no boxes), Clean Shimano Custom 6000 spinner from the late 80's with a Bob's bait and Tackle (San Diego area) price tag still on the foot, and a few other tidbits. There is a Heddon Pal Reel and matching rod that's pretty cool as well. That one might go on my office wall.
Tim
PM if you decide to let it go, please :)
John
@Thorhammer Sent a PM a few days ago but no response. Getting ready to sell 6500C and a few other things.
Quote from: timosuna on August 19, 2022, 06:59:08 PM@Thorhammer Sent a PM a few days ago but no response. Getting ready to sell 6500C and a few other things.
Don't give up on Thorhammer. He is very dependable. If the 6500C is the reel he wants please hold it for him. If you need payment right away I'll send you the money. He sometimes travels for work and can't check in everyday. Dominick
Quote from: timosuna on August 15, 2022, 12:30:45 AMMark, I agree that the carbontex is better in a working reel. I've been putting them into my own stuff when it's time to change them out. This one will probably just sit so any drag washers will be better than the plastic things that came out of it. At least now the handle will turn properly if someone picks it up.
Thorhammer, Good eye! That Abu 6500C may be going up for sale. The dirtier one sold already. It came in in the same batch. The one in the picture has a 1966 imprint on the foot. it appears unfished or if so, very lightly fished by a grandma or something. Lol. It's really clean. There were two in a box of stuff that came from an ex-neighbor. Lots of interesting things in the box. The 500 in box in my post, another of same era that's a little rougher. Two very clean 209M Peer reels (one in box), two of the 1966 Abu 6500C 9no boxes), Clean Shimano Custom 6000 spinner from the late 80's with a Bob's bait and Tackle (San Diego area) price tag still on the foot, and a few other tidbits. There is a Heddon Pal Reel and matching rod that's pretty cool as well. That one might go on my office wall.
Tim
There was also a Bob's B&T up in South OC (Lake Forest) at El Toro/Rockfield that was my local tackle store while it lasted.
Apologies, kind sir. We didn't get around to price, then I wasn't feeling well a couple of days and didn't get back to it. The Counselor is correct, I had a drop-in crisis in Canada I leave for Tuesday and prepping for that took what energy and focus I had. I think you may be north of where I want to go on the platform for this particular project, and I wish you good luck on the sale.
Dommie, that was a very appreciated vouch on my behalf, thank you.
Thanks also to Ted, who contacted to me to let me know status.
regards,
John
Hey Tim- what you're describing would for me prolly be a shelfie, and you are correct in that those fetch a price. I'm looking to fish, so for shelfie pricing I'd pay a few more bucks and go up to a fishing Mag Elite with UC spool design. Again, good luck on the sale.
John
Tim, are you playing games or do you really want to sell that reel? Dominick
Am I playing games? Wow brother. No. Been busy over the weekend. :-X
Thorhammer asked about it, I answered him. He declined and now the reel is on Ebay. Honestly, I'm not exactly sure what it's worth. There are others on ebay in lesser condition that are priced into the stratosphere. I put it up there with a buy it now of $285 which is less than the others (which I feel are fishing so to speak with inferior quality reels.) Will see what happens. There are over 20 people watching it last time I checked. Check the pics. I can sell it off Ebay to save the tax if anyone is interested.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125472778393
Tim, that's a really nice example- I certainly wouldn't have fished it.
Thanks! They ex-neighbor handed me a couple old crown royal bags with some other stuff and I didn't even see what was in them until I got home. That one on Ebay is really nice.
Tim
Hi,
I have just received a 500L jigmaster that I would like to put back into use. The spool has side to side play (at least 3mm) even with the bearing (part 40-60) fully tightened.
Looking at the schematic I notice that I do not have a bearing spring (part 41-60) and also do not see it in Alan's tutorial. My question is should my reel have this spring?
Thanks
there shouldn't be that much play. i'm wondering if a new bearing/bushing would help. you could also put a small plug of some sort inside the existing bushing to shim it over. the spring should be there but does not matter.
Ok thanks Alan. I will have a look around for a replacement bushing.
Quote from: alantani on November 05, 2022, 05:45:28 AMthere shouldn't be that much play. i'm wondering if a new bearing/bushing would help. you could also put a small plug of some sort inside the existing bushing to shim it over. the spring should be there but does not matter.
Thanks, plugging the bushing did the trick! I did look online for a new bushing but it would almost cost the same as a new jigmaster to post to Australiastan. Didnt have anything suitable to shim with. So cut a little bit of tin solder and dropped it into the bushing and melted it with a torch. A bit redneck and have lost the oiling port but no big deal I think. Anyway feels pretty smooth now.
Too late now, but some people use a delrin "dot". I use an adjustable leather punch on a delrin washer. Delrin has a nice slippery surface and is pretty tuff stuff. The spring will keep the bushing from un-screwing once you get it adjusted.
Quote from: Gfish on November 13, 2022, 08:42:49 PMToo late now, but some people use a delrin "dot". I use an adjustable leather punch on a delrin washer. Delrin has a nice slippery surface and is pretty tuff stuff. The spring will keep the bushing from un-screwing once you get it adjusted.
Thanks that would have been a better solution. Somehow I missed your reply sorry. I managed to find a used parts reel and swapped bearings but the other one was still doing the job when it was replaced.
I also noticed the main gear in the parts reel is steel(magnet sticks to it). Can somebody please tell me which would be the stronger gear to use, brass or steel?
Steel no question. But I never crank down my drag all the way so have never damaged any brass yet.
Quote from: Rancanfish on August 28, 2023, 03:07:32 PMSteel no question. But I never crank down my drag all the way so have never damaged any brass yet.
Okay thanks for your help!!