This post will help folks identify their gear types, and hopefully give some tips to save trouble when delving into gears for the first time. I learned about gears by quizzing members here and piecing many threads together. To have it all in one thread would be awesome...so I'll make an attempt.
Most all Penn gears come in these variants I'll cover, but for simplicity I'll use all #5-60 photos. Since I don't have a stash of gears to photograph, I used eBay pics, many are products that members here are selling. This first version is probably the most common...the bronze gear. It meshes smoother than steel, but isn't as strong.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4013/34826486293_981c8fa3c5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V4uR3e)
Next up is the bare steel version. Many times the bare steel gear is in so fine a condition you wonder why some gears were ever plated.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4229/35635264125_32eec00d87_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WhY3vB)
Ahh...the chromium plated version...sporting it's usual flaking. This damage is only cosmetic though, I've had severely chipped or corroded finish that performed as well as NOS.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4288/35635264425_3096838d20_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WhY3AM)
Here is the Moly coated gear, easily identified by its satin grey finish. This is my preferred stock Penn gear type.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4134/34826486533_9d0e0458b7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V4uR7n)
This is a "bushed" gear, which also comes in a steel version with a brass or bronze bushing.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4265/34826486633_95d1257b60_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/V4uR96)
This photo shows the different back cuts used on these gear through the years. Surprisingly, the hard fiber spacers used with the larger cutout won't fit into the smaller cutout...something to watch if you're using OEM undergear spacers.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4266/35635264235_7650b3e9ff_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WhY3xv)
Here's my preferred undercut...none! I like these type because the back's surface can be polished for using a steel washer/carbontex washer undergear set.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4137/35635264165_12e9364a0f_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WhY3wi)
Well...that gets things started...hopefully the members will chime in with other tidbits of knowledge. Questions are welcomed, I may even have a few questions myself. 8)
Thanks Mo...that's a lot of information packed into a small package....Bill
And there were a limited number of stainless steel gears for the Anniversary specials for the 113H. Not sure about the 114H and 500S though.
Quote from: Bryan Young on March 31, 2017, 12:46:06 AM
And there were a limited number of stainless steel gears for the Anniversary specials for the 113H. Not sure about the 114H and 500S though.
I'd say a stainless steel gear could have been made for the 500s or maybe even other models. I have a 210 with a #5-500 gear that really looks like stainless.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4149/35248763710_dd33a1425a_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VGP8pm)
Mo has it all covered. ;D
Mo,
Awesome! You helped me identify 5-60 gears and what to look for a few weeks back. This post with pictures helps tremendously as well.
Thanks for posting.
Thanks for posting, Mo. Great info.
Sid
Many times us tinkerers and hobbyists don't have the tools on hand the pro service folks use...no big deal...we can improvise...like this gizmo I fashioned to polish the inside of gears. Drag stacks are much like the braking system on your car, the smoother the brake discs the better the braking. Many times when installing new drag washers the old washers are stuck to the gear...creating lots of power robbing debris. Getting the inside of that gear clean and smooth will yield the best results. My gear polisher is the essence of simplicity...you ready fer this Dominick? :D It's a wine cork! With a piece of 1500 grit taped on. ;) Don't forget to polish the metal drag washers too, they are more important than the gear, being as only the first drag washer is affected by the condition inside the gear. With all drag surfaces slick and smooth you'll get the most power from your setup. 8)
Another good idea Mo!
For drag washers I use the Sal method....lay a sheet of smooth sandpaper down flat and push the washer around a bit while pressing down with a couple of Italian sausage digits.
You may have noticed in my posts I use Bryan's under gear set often to make a 4-stack drag setup.
It's a great way to grab a few more usable pounds of drag without over stressing a reel with stock framework. I've even used it in a 113H with a 5-stack for 6 friction surfaces. The first pic shows 2 types of stock Penn under gear washers above Bryan's stainless steel/carbontex set. Sometimes this under gear set will push out the main gear a few thousandths causing rub on the side plate. The reason for this is the stock Penn undergear washer is .032-.034 and Bryan's set is .040...each washer contributing .020. I know 8 thousandths doesn't sound like much...but it's tight inside that gear housing. The second pic shows how similar the two systems are in thickness. The third pic shows how the gear housing is "terraced". These are the areas the main gear, the drag washers, and the spring washer all fit into. Any one or all could be scraping if the main gear is pushed out a bit. It's easy to identify where the rub is...now you need to remove a little material. I do mean a little...just skim off a shave. I'll say it now...if you don't have a Dremel tool...get one. The fourth pic shows the type bit I use. Sometimes just removing the spring washer will take care of the rub. If you don't like the feel of the drag with it removed...just move it to between the spacer and the star. 8)
P.S. I forgot to mention shimming the gear sleeve will also sometimes contribute to side plate/gear rubbing, as it moves the gear out in the same way. No sweat though, skimming a few thousandths off the side plate is worth the reward of a solid feeling handle and more usable power.
Some might say the washer for under the gear should perform as a bearing, not adding drag. this gives the best performance. Clutch assembly should not be combined with that washer for under the gear.
Removing a Belleville or a wavy washer ( both spring washers) from the top of the drag stack will create a possibility for the star to back up on its own when you don't want it to.
Of course you set your reels as you like, this is just my opinion and also what I do on my personal reels.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 08, 2017, 11:44:50 PMClutch assembly should not be combined with that washer for under the gear.
Sorry, could you elaborate just a little? :)
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 08, 2017, 11:44:50 PM
Removing a Belleville or a wavy washer ( both spring washers) from the top of the drag stack will create a possibility for the star to back up on its own when you don't want it to.
I agree with this, but I think what Mike was saying was that if you have a spring washer under the spacer sleeve, and it's causing rubbing on the side plate/gear housing (I don't think I've encountered this), you can move the spring washer to on top of the spacer sleeve/below the star to eliminate the rubbing.... by shortening the stack inside the gear housing.... and this will also prevent the star from backing off when you don't want it to because it's maintaining pressure on the star.
Sid
Quote from: sdlehr on April 09, 2017, 12:53:38 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 08, 2017, 11:44:50 PMClutch assembly should not be combined with that washer for under the gear.
Sorry, could you elaborate just a little? :)Quote from: Alto Mare on April 08, 2017, 11:44:50 PM
Removing a Belleville or a wavy washer ( both spring washers) from the top of the drag stack will create a possibility for the star to back up on its own when you don't want it to.
I agree with this, but I think what Mike was saying was that if you have a spring washer under the spacer sleeve, and it's causing rubbing on the side plate/gear housing (I don't think I've encountered this), you can move the spring washer to on top of the spacer sleeve/below the star to eliminate the rubbing.... by shortening the stack inside the gear housing.... and this will also prevent the star from backing off when you don't want it to because it's maintaining pressure on the star.
Sid
drag stack shouldn't have the same functionality as the washer for under the gear, you would want that washer to hep the main gear spinn as smooth as possible when under tension. installing a carbon washer there would defeat the purpose, you want that washer to be as slippery as possible.
On your second comment, I read it differently than you did, yes Mo is correct on that one.
About the washers, I have a bunch, if you have some as well try measuring one at a time, you'll be surprised in the variations.
I have 3 different piles, ranging from 1mm to 1.20mm. Metal washers also come in various thickness.
if you have rubbing issues, at times choosing the thinner washers helps.
Hi Mo
With regard to your first photo, how can a keyed washer fit on the gear sleeve under the gear when the sleeve is round at this area?
Forgive me if I am understanding this incorrectly.
Basto
Hi Greg, Alan T had some '2nd generation' gear sleeves made with the flat extended to the bottom of the sleeve to accommodate the under gear keyed washer. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13041.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13041.0)
Mike
Quote from: mhc on April 09, 2017, 02:00:25 AM
Hi Greg, Alan T had some '2nd generation' gear sleeves made with the flat extended to the bottom of the sleeve to accommodate the under gear keyed washer. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13041.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13041.0)
Mike
Yep...I guess I should have mentioned the second generation sleeves. Some members here have also filed their own sleeves to accommodate the keyed ss washer...but I just buy mine.
Also, for the record, I have reels set up with all three types of under gear washers. The original Penn hard fiber spacer, Sal's delrin washer, and Bryan's ss/carbontex set. When all three are properly set up and lubed...I can't tell one from another...they all perform smoothly. The advantage of Bryan's set for me is the addition of another friction surface
while being supported by a stainless steel bearing surface...all for the wallet friendly price of $6.40. 8)
Quote from: mhc on April 09, 2017, 02:00:25 AM
Hi Greg, Alan T had some '2nd generation' gear sleeves made with the flat extended to the bottom of the sleeve to accommodate the under gear keyed washer. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13041.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13041.0)
Mike
Thanks Mike, I was not aware of the new sleeves. The only sleeve I know of like that is on the Shimano Triton Mark 1 and 2. These were made in 1982.
cheers
Greg
Quote from: mo65 on April 09, 2017, 02:26:30 AM
Also, for the record, I have reels set up with all three types of under gear washers. The original Penn hard fiber spacer, Sal's delrin washer, and Bryan's ss/carbontex set. When all three are properly set up and lubed...I can't tell one from another...they all perform smoothly. The advantage of Bryan's set for me is the addition of another friction surface being supported by a stainless steel bearing surface...all for the wallet friendly price of $6.40.
Mo, what kind of drag did you have on the reel when you couldn't tell one from the other?
Just turning the handle after servicing wouldn't be noticeable. On the water, or pulling on the line with some drag would.
if that's how you came to your conclusion, great!...good to know.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 09, 2017, 02:39:05 AM
Mo, what kind of drag did you have on the reel when you couldn't tell one from the other?
Just turning the handle after servicing wouldn't be noticeable. On the water, or pulling on the line with some drag would.
if that's how you came to your conclusion, great!...good to know.
Yes...I meant while pulling off line during drag testing...and fishing also. I'll admit the only reel I've built that gets a little "chattery" at high settings has the stock Penn hard fiber spacer. I want to change it to delrin and see if that clears up...but I have a hard time finding delrin here. Also note I don't have any hard running fish like tuna to severely test on, so I have never spun a bearing washer/spacer to its death, although that sounds like some real fun! ;D
I have trouble finding thin delrin washers too and have been using mylar washers from the local hardware store. Its cloudy white, hard, rigid, slick, and it seems to work fine. Delrin and Mylar have similar specs (temperature, friction, hardness) but I cannot find a comparison of wear resistance.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on April 09, 2017, 08:07:43 AM
I have trouble finding thin delrin washers too and have been using mylar washers from the local hardware store. Its cloudy white, hard, rigid, slick, and it seems to work fine. Delrin and Mylar have similar specs (temperature, friction, hardness) but I cannot find a comparison of wear resistance.
-steve
Dawn at smoothdrag should have some precut.
If you could cut your own I believe McMasters shipps worldwide
https://www.mcmaster.com/#2638T15
I've been giving them out on my dime for the past 3 years, I'm now done doing so.
Sal
Wrong size, this is the one I usually use https://www.mcmaster.com/#2638T75 , but I'm noticing the thinner staock is just as durable.
You just busted open an old wound Sal. I wanted some delrin tubing (really handy stuff) and ordered a piece from McMaster. I thought the order was for one foot. A few days later they sent an invoice for ten to twenty dollars of material and sixty or seventy dollars shipping. Their web site doesn't calculate shipping costs. I told them sixty to seventy dollars shipping was too much thinking they could have put a foot of tubing in an envelope and I wanted to cancel the order. They said the order had already been shipped and sent me a refund. I said if it's already been shipped then OK, just charge me and I'll ask for a pro forma invoice next time. We went back and forth and they refused to take the money. Then the package arrived. It was a huge five foot long cardboard tube with five feet of tubing inside; sent via courier no less. That's why it cost sixty or seventy bucks to ship. I felt like the senile old coot that I am and was so embarrassed that I haven't been back and do not know if they would have me back. If I knew how the office was set up I'd send them a bunch of coffee supplies or buy the next birthday cake or something.
-steve
Steve, at times things happen. Mcmaster has been very good to me, I have no complains, this is why I always recommend them.
Dawn is also excellent, so you have a couple of choices.
Sal
Mcmaster has been really good to me too, and the return policy is second to none. Their prices are a bit high, but they have nearly anything you could want from an industrial supply, and one of their regional offices is close enough to me that UPS ground arrives next day. I order from them almost on a weekly basis...
On the delrin washers, I usually have the Penn Senator 113H and up sizes in stock. If there is an interest, I can offer them separately.
Here's another gear related subject that always stirs up a debate...shimming the gear sleeve. Some folks don't mind the loose fit of a stock gear sleeve, some folks are driven crazy by it, and I guess I fall somewhere in between. I like my gear sleeves to fit precisely, not tight. I like a thousandth or two of freedom...but tight enough not to "klunk" when handling the reel. Many reels will have a close fit right from the factory, while others will exhibit a wider gap, it's just a tolerance of manufacturing. Also switching to an aftermarket gear sleeve can sometimes change the feel, and need a minor adjustment.
At any rate...the gear sleeve's fit can be adjusted easy by tapping out the retaining pin and adding a shim washer or two. What seems like a huge gap will surprise you by how narrow it really is. Having a variety of thicknesses will make shimming easier. As stated many times earlier...McMaster-Car is a great source of these shim washers. The first photo shows a typical gap on a stock gear sleeve. The second pic shows a few shim washers I use regularly. 8)
OK gear heads...this time I have a question of my own. I'm sure most everyone who has handled the #5-155 gear has noticed that many times the cutouts for the eared washers will actually poke right through the outer surface, leaving a sizable open gap. My question is, has anyone ever had this lead to a gear failure? It sure looks like trouble, but maybe the teeth don't engage so deep as to cause a problem. I'm just curious about it... ???
It happens in manufacturing as to how the gear is oriented when the slots for the eared washers are milled. Many are like this on a number of different sized gears. If penn thought it would impair the duribility of the gear it would have been rejected at inspection time. Rudy
Mo, nicely done. A instant classic posting.
Someone once suggested that the Penn 160 Light Casting reel is "light" because the gear is like that. Can't find it now.
-steve
Quote from: RowdyW on May 03, 2017, 04:09:30 PM
It happens in manufacturing as to how the gear is oriented when the slots for the eared washers are milled. Many are like this on a number of different sized gears. If penn thought it would impair the duribility of the gear it would have been rejected at inspection time. Rudy
Yep! I have a few 5-155 myself, all with the slot going through the gear. these will do just fine.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Photo%20May%2003%204%2059%2017%20PM.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/Photo%20May%2003%204%2059%2017%20PM.jpg.html)
Good observation Mo.
Sal
I've got four 5-113 main gears that were milled through between the gear teeth. __it happens. Rudy
I thought they tried to mill the notch where it would cut through. If they center the milling at the base of the tooth, the tooth is only supported by a thread on both sides.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on May 04, 2017, 10:57:01 AM
I thought they tried to mill the notch where it would cut through. If they center the milling at the base of the tooth, the tooth is only supported by a thread on both sides.
-steve
x2, I think they purposely oriented the gears that way for this reason.
Sid
Then why aren't all the same gears done the same way?
Quote from: RowdyW on May 04, 2017, 04:37:33 PM
Then why aren't all the same gears done the same way?
You got me there. Have you ever seen a gear drilled through a tooth like Steve was talking about above? Me neither. Did they not make them or did they not pass QC, or something else I'm not thinking of? If it was random orientation when they milled out the little ears some, maybe many, would be rejects... not the way Otto Henze did things. That leaves us with the logical conclusion (I think) that the gears were hand-positioned so as not to mill out a piece centered on a tooth. Pretty sure they didn't have CNC machines back then, so there would be some variability, but I imagine the gear-makers got pretty good at not producing rejects. I don't know any of this to be true, I'm guessing based on what I know.
Sid
I've been noticing lately folks are having a harder time finding #5-500 steel gears for their Jigmaster and 112H Senator projects. Decent prices have become scarce on eBay. When I first joined this site, a fellow could ask if anyone had one, and before he could even finish his sentence 4 or 5 guys would offer him one. Not seeing as much of that these days either.
One solution is to not forget the other reels that use that main gear. The good ol' 309 uses a #5-500 main, and they can still be found on the cheap, especially at flea markets, pawn shops, and yard sales. Look for the older maroon plated models for a good chance at steel.
Another solution...and this is my preferred solution...is to just buy a new stainless steel gear set. Pro Challenger's JM500X kit has everything you'll need for $70. By the time you buy a donor reel, a drag washer kit, and an under gear washer, you'll probably have that much invested anyway. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on May 31, 2017, 09:40:52 PM
I've been noticing lately folks are having a harder time finding #5-500 steel gears for their Jigmaster and 112H Senator projects. Decent prices have become scarce on eBay. When I first joined this site, a fellow could ask if anyone had one, and before he could even finish his sentence 4 or 5 guys would offer him one. Not seeing as much of that these days either.
One solution is to not forget the other reels that use that main gear. The good ol' 309 uses a #5-500 main, and they can still be found on the cheap, especially at flea markets, pawn shops, and yard sales. Look for the older maroon plated models for a good chance at steel.
Another solution...and this is my preferred solution...is to just buy a new stainless steel gear set. Pro Challenger's JM500X kit has everything you'll need for $70. By the time you buy a donor reel, a drag washer kit, and an under gear washer, you'll probably have that much invested anyway. 8)
Yes, now you'd be looking at the custom SS gears...the old Penn ones are few and far between.
Here's another gear issue I've seen pop up a few times lately. Folks adding aftermarket drag kits with many thin washers need to watch out for this gremlin. Some stock Penn gears only had the slots for the eared washers cut deep enough to accommodate those thick washers used at that time. Then when you try inserting thinner washers, that first eared washer stops where the slot stops, and doesn't even touch the carbontex washer below it!
Most times it isn't even noticed until the user slaps the reel back together only to find the drag power suffering miserably. Of course the slots could be milled deeper, but for the average Joe an easier fix is to just use a few thicker washers first in the stack. This raises things up to where the first eared washer doesn't bottom out in the slots.
Here's a photo of a gear with the shallow slots. I have a 6/0 like this, but didn't want to tear it down to take a pic, so I used Tiddlerbasher's photo, I hope that's OK. 8)
Been there done that - I think I recognize that photo Mo ;)
Gear noise and growl are issues we've all probably dealt with at some point and time. Naturally, the first place ya look is the gear, but as this photo demonstrates, other components in the drivetrain can be the cause. Although this gear sleeve is the only one I've encountered with such extreme wear, I can see this happening pretty easily. The damage that looks like a deeper cut in the sleeve is where the gear rides. With a steel gear riding on that sleeve dry...or a hard run by a lunker...the sleeve is going to take the wear. The little 180 this worn sleeve was in growled like a grizzly bear, and when replaced it quieted right down, felt normal and smooth. Just more gear food for thought. 8)
So do you think the growling was really a chattering of the gear around the sleeve that it no longer fit well? I can see that kind of wear causing a problem if the gear were turning on the sleeve, but with the drag locked down, there shouldn't be any movement there - except for what can now occur because of the wear on the sleeve...?? Trying to understand how this type of wear ends up translating into a "growl".
Quote from: sdlehr on January 30, 2018, 07:07:14 PM
So do you think the growling was really a chattering of the gear around the sleeve that it no longer fit well? I can see that kind of wear causing a problem if the gear were turning on the sleeve, but with the drag locked down, there shouldn't be any movement there - except for what can now occur because of the wear on the sleeve...?? Trying to understand how this type of wear ends up translating into a "growl".
Possibly the offset of the main gear due to the wear on the sleeve resulted in a poor mesh with the pinion gear.
Possibly the offset of the main gear due to the wear on the sleeve resulted in a poor mesh with the pinion gear.
[/quote]
Yeah, that sounds probable.
Another issue: corrosion on the underside of the main gear. Got my first vintage steel 5-500 pretty bad. So far, I've only noticed it on gears with the red-fiber, stock, under-the-gear washers only. Does anyone lube that area, and if so what with? Could there be a better washer or set up under there, to mitigate this?
Like to think that flater it is on the underside of the gear the smoother the gear'll spin and the better the drag function.
Gfish
Quote from: scrinch on January 30, 2018, 08:49:11 PM
Quote from: sdlehr on January 30, 2018, 07:07:14 PM
So do you think the growling was really a chattering of the gear around the sleeve that it no longer fit well?
Possibly the offset of the main gear due to the wear on the sleeve resulted in a poor mesh with the pinion gear.
Exactly...this kind of wear throws out the main/pinion mesh...she'll howl like a dog! You can feel every tooth when you turn the handle.
Quote from: Gfish on January 30, 2018, 09:33:31 PM
Another issue: corrosion on the underside of the main gear. Got my first vintage steel 5-500 pretty bad. So far, I've only noticed it on gears with the red-fiber, stock, under-the-gear washers only. Does anyone lube that area, and if so what with? Could there be a better washer or set up under there, to mitigate this?
Like to think that flater it is on the underside of the gear the smoother the gear'll spin and the better the drag function.
Gfish
This issue is common too Gfish. What's going on under that gear when in drag can definitely be felt. That corrosion between the main gear and the under gear washer has to go. Earlier in this thread I showed how I use a wine cork with sandpaper attached to smooth the inside
and the backside. Those red fiber washers work well if in good condition and greased with Cal's...but for top notch performance a Delrin or Teflon washer under the gear makes her slick. Contrary to popular belief...you want all metal friction surfaces smooth. Metal drag surfaces need to be like glass for most power...think clutch plates.8)
This is my first look at the thread and it's very thorough I've learned a lot.. Thanks for starting this Mike
Joe
Interesting that the contact between main gear and sleeve can be a wear point. Most on this site place a higher value on steel gears. The sleeves have always been brass (to the best of my knowledge), which begs a question. Why did Penn choose to use brass (or bronze) main gears on most of its conventionals?
I gather that there is only movement there when the drag is in motion (like Sid said,) so it might take a lot of long runs to wear like Mo's pic. Another reason to be grateful for SS sleeves! ;D :o 8)
Quote from: Reel 224 on January 31, 2018, 05:17:04 AM
This is my first look at the thread and it's very thorough I've learned a lot.. Thanks for starting this Mike
Joe
Thanks Joe, my intent was to pack a lot of usable gear info into one location. Sometimes it gets buried pretty deep, then when I add another topic it's back to the top, and some folks like yourself see it for the first time.
Quote from: Decker on January 31, 2018, 01:39:56 PM
Interesting that the contact between main gear and sleeve can be a wear point.
This type of wear will never occur in my fishing, there just isn't a fish in my waters that will run long enough to smoke a gear sleeve. Well...if I hooked a passing barge...and left my pocket knife in the truck...HA! Seriously though, in ocean fishing, every day someone hooks a big ray or shark and gets spooled. Then that reel ends up on fleabay, and a guy like me buys it. I spent
hours troubleshooting that reel, only to notice that sleeve wear at the last minute, and then changed sleeves. Instantly, it was like a different reel. Like I said earlier, more gear food for thought. 8)
Another way that can happen is trolling something heavy and using the drag to let line out instead of putting it in free spool. standard procedure when salmon trolling using 2-3 lb balls and a sinker release. Maybe that reel is from a light trolling outfit
An idea I've been playing with for a while is this:
An under sleeve teflon shim (.25mm)
(https://i.imgur.com/RGrtTNG.jpg)
I'm expecting this to reduce any friction between the sleeve and bridge.
Of course there is also the delrin under gear washer. Both washers are large diameter so the dog 'floats' between the two.
(https://i.imgur.com/ScuiJXp.jpg)
And another delrin on top of the stack.
(https://i.imgur.com/nqKCFff.jpg)
The complete 5 stack - topped by thick washer, no spacer, and 2 belleviles () under the star
(https://i.imgur.com/xeh35em.jpg)
Not a bad idea. Not sure how it will hold up with use? The Teflon is a bit softer then the Delron. It is less fraiable, but more prone to marring/distortion.
Interesting, Tb. Does seem like a good idea... So the dealie that looks like a big O ring gasket, is that simulating where the side plate would be?
Gfish
I've been thinking about Delrin under the gear sleeve for a while. I'm just not sure if the thin material will hold up over time. I have been using stainless steel shims instead...for now at least.
IMHO there is no great stress on the under sleeve washer - so thin teflon will work - if you can find delrin that thin give it a try, not available in the UK. As I said I'm only playing with this idea. My own feedback is slow so if others try it we may get a quicker/ better result :-\ I just like the idea of a dog between slippy slidey surfaces :)
Looks good Chris, I like the idea of keeping dogs and dog springs protected - my only concern is that if there is any deformation in either of the teflon washers they could close in on the dog and restrict it from moving. Like you said, the under sleeve one shouldn't be under much load but the under gear one would have the drag pressure pushing it towards the smaller diameter sleeve ratchet. Smaller diameter teflon would be less prone to distortion but wouldn't cover the dog as much. Won't know until you try it I guess - let us know how it goes unless someone else tries it first.
Nice work on the bridge by the way, did you do the jeweling?
Mike
I plan on making drawings like the one below available as I make them. I will start with the gears I have and can ID but will need help with ones I do not have or can't ID. If there is interest I will make a data gathering template.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1583_13_02_18_11_50_04.jpeg)
Quote from: Keta on February 14, 2018, 02:40:47 PM
I plan on making drawings like the one below available as I make them. I will start with the gears I have and can ID but will need help with ones I do not have or can't ID. If there is interest I will make a data gathering template.
Lee, I have been stewing some ideas for a Penn parts database, with franken-reel cross-references. Your drawings would fit right into that schema 8) My suggestion would be to follow a standard naming scheme for your output, so that they can be easily organized and referenced. Would you be saving them as CAD files, or images, or both? This is great!
P.S. I like the template idea too, for building the data incrementally. This is very exciting (to a geek like me).
Both .dxf and .jpg
Awesome, Lee. One "OCD" suggestion though: units(i.e., in., " or mm). I know, I know it's obvious yours are inch decimals, maybe not to some, though?
Gfish
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on January 31, 2018, 05:24:27 PM
An under sleeve teflon shim (.25mm)
(https://i.imgur.com/RGrtTNG.jpg)
I see a "plastic" washer under the AR dog too. The jeweling looks nice.
Quote from: Gfish on February 14, 2018, 08:13:47 PM
Awesome, Lee. One "OCD" suggestion though: units(i.e., in., " or mm). I know, I know it's obvious yours are inch decimals, maybe not to some, though?
Gfish
Not enough room for both but I can get around it, metrics are easier anyway.
Decimals did not come through.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1583_14_02_18_6_14_54.jpeg)
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on January 31, 2018, 05:24:27 PM
The complete 5 stack - topped by thick washer, no spacer, and 2 belleviles () under the star
(https://i.imgur.com/xeh35em.jpg)
Wow Tiddlerbasher! That has to be the sweetest looking bridge and gear stack I've ever seen. I love blinged out muscle under the hood! 8)
Quote from: mo65 on March 29, 2018, 03:13:36 AM
I love blinged out muscle under the hood! 8)
Hey Mo I have the feeling that you are the kind of guy that
would have a muscle car with plenty of power. If so open the hood and post a picture. Dominick
Quote from: Dominick on March 29, 2018, 03:40:57 AM
Hey Mo I have the feeling that you are the kind of guy that would have a muscle car with plenty of power. If so open the hood and post a picture. Dominick
Well Dominick...I probably should have some kind of fast 4 wheels, because I'm getting too old and fat to ride this Milwaukee shaker. Never mind that flat tire...proof she's been sittin' still. ;)
Quote from: mo65 on March 29, 2018, 06:14:28 AM
Quote from: Dominick on March 29, 2018, 03:40:57 AM
Hey Mo I have the feeling that you are the kind of guy that would have a muscle car with plenty of power. If so open the hood and post a picture. Dominick
Well Dominick...I probably should have some kind of fast 4 wheels, because I'm getting too old and fat to ride this Milwaukee shaker. Never mind that flat tire...proof she's been sittin' still. ;)
Mo: That there is a nice bike brother! ;D
Joe
I've been comparing the #5-60 gear to the #5-66 gear. Although these 2 gears are the same diameter, that's just about where the similarity ends. The photo below shows how much more robust the teeth are on the #5-66. It's also deeper, allowing more drag washers inside the gear. The #5-66 will allow a stock thickness 5-stack to be used, where fitting that arrangement into the #5-60 requires one of Bryan Young's 5-stack kits using very thin washers.
Moving along to the pinions used with these two gears, it doesn't take long to see which is the beefier design. The downfall of this mass though is lost speed. The tiny #13-140 pinion combined with the increased tooth count of the #5-60 main makes it the faster set up. We're seeing a trade off here...speed vs. strength...but how much faster? Or how much stronger?
I performed some low tech experiments, but real world experiments, with real world results. I converted the speed concern from gear ratios to "inches per turn"...each turn of the handle would draw in a length of line measured in inches. In the pic are gear sets from a black plate Senator 3/0(on left) and a Squidder 140.(on right) The Senator's set develops 2.25:1 while the Squidder's is rated at 3.3:1. The Senator brought in 12-13 inches per turn, while the Squidder cranked up 22-23 inches per turn. Around 10 inches more per turn.
That difference may be insignificant for some of my fishing, making the #5-66 something I could benefit from. I've always liked the #5-60's speed/power for catfishing, but I'm giving the #5-66 a whirl. Only time will tell if I'll like it better. The reduction in speed can be offset by added muscle for big fish. 8)
Recently while working on a batch of estate sale reels, I had an issue with a bushed steel main gear on one of the 113H reels. The bronze/brass bushing came out of the gear. I snapped it back into place and finished the assembly then drag tested the reel and everything was fine. Would this be a problem down the road, or would the pressure of the drag stack hold everything in place?
Hi Long Enuff. I've seen a few guys ask this same question...and they were told its not a big deal...the bushing will stay in place. I can't remember where I saw this, or I'd leave you a link to it, but I have seen it mentioned here a few times. 8)
Thanks Mo! That is encouraging.
Quote from: mo65 on April 17, 2017, 04:13:17 PM
Here's another gear related subject that always stirs up a debate...shimming the gear sleeve. Some folks don't mind the loose fit of a stock gear sleeve, some folks are driven crazy by it, and I guess I fall somewhere in between. I like my gear sleeves to fit precisely, not tight. I like a thousandth or two of freedom...but tight enough not to "klunk" when handling the reel. Many reels will have a close fit right from the factory, while others will exhibit a wider gap, it's just a tolerance of manufacturing. Also switching to an aftermarket gear sleeve can sometimes change the feel, and need a minor adjustment.
At any rate...the gear sleeve's fit can be adjusted easy by tapping out the retaining pin and adding a shim washer or two. What seems like a huge gap will surprise you by how narrow it really is. Having a variety of thicknesses will make shimming easier. As stated many times earlier...McMaster-Car is a great source of these shim washers. The first photo shows a typical gap on a stock gear sleeve. The second pic shows a few shim washers I use regularly. 8)
I've not yet done this to any reel, but have a few that could use this. What thickness shims should I get to keep on hand? They seem to come in packs of 5 from McMaster.
Quote from: sdlehr on March 31, 2018, 03:09:41 PM
I've not yet done this to any reel, but have a few that could use this. What thickness shims should I get to keep on hand? They seem to come in packs of 5 from McMaster.
Hi Sid, its good to have several thicknesses on hand, I use shims from 2 thousandths to 12 thousandths, depending on what is needed. Just remember, don't make it tight. Always allow a few thousandths space for heat expansion, in the event you might be lucky enough to have a lunker empty your spool. 8)
One of the pier rat kids gave me this in a bag to see if I could fix it. It's a Humpty Dumpty and missing a bunch of parts. I'm sure it's not worth the time or $ to fool with it but it has a big main gear (unfortunately no pinion) any idea what gear this is? It's pretty big so thinking it might be useful for a project down the road. Thoughts?
Sid, Sharkhunter turned me on to these a couple of years ago. They worked great for a 114H.
Quote
The Rogue of the Seven Seas!
Re: 114H gear sleeve spacer
« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2015, 02:49:02 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote
I use the .010 thick Brass. 3/8"x5/8". They work on the 114H and up. part# 92678A278
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3256/=10daj2t
Quote from: sdlehr on March 31, 2018, 03:09:41 PM
Quote from: mo65 on April 17, 2017, 04:13:17 PM
Here's another gear related subject that always stirs up a debate...shimming the gear sleeve. Some folks don't mind the loose fit of a stock gear sleeve, some folks are driven crazy by it, and I guess I fall somewhere in between. I like my gear sleeves to fit precisely, not tight. I like a thousandth or two of freedom...but tight enough not to "klunk" when handling the reel. Many reels will have a close fit right from the factory, while others will exhibit a wider gap, it's just a tolerance of manufacturing. Also switching to an aftermarket gear sleeve can sometimes change the feel, and need a minor adjustment.
At any rate...the gear sleeve's fit can be adjusted easy by tapping out the retaining pin and adding a shim washer or two. What seems like a huge gap will surprise you by how narrow it really is. Having a variety of thicknesses will make shimming easier. As stated many times earlier...McMaster-Car is a great source of these shim washers. The first photo shows a typical gap on a stock gear sleeve. The second pic shows a few shim washers I use regularly. 8)
I've not yet done this to any reel, but have a few that could use this. What thickness shims should I get to keep on hand? They seem to come in packs of 5 from McMaster.
These have been talked about a few times in the past and there are a few threads spread out.
Here is one from 4 years ago:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=10736.msg102911#msg102911
you could use just one or a couple stacked on top of each other as you need.
Mo is correct! you do not want the gear sleeve to be tight, it should have a hint of up and down movement.
Penn never made these tight and for a good reason.
Sal
Quote from: Swami805 on March 31, 2018, 04:08:23 PM
One of the pier rat kids gave me this in a bag to see if I could fix it. It's a Humpty Dumpty and missing a bunch of parts. I'm sure it's not worth the time or $ to fool with it but it has a big main gear (unfortunately no pinion) any idea what gear this is? It's pretty big so thinking it might be useful for a project down the road. Thoughts?
That's a GTO 220 Swami, they have their own gear, the #5-220. It's not a severe duty reel...along the lines of a 309...just a good average strength reel. They are popular with many catfishermen around this neck of the woods. Scott's has just about all parts for one...short of the decals and gear stud shims. 8)
Thanks Moe. It's missing a bunch of parts, it came in a plastic grocery bag with a hole in it so I'm sure the missing parts are on the bus the kid rode to the pier and long gone. Thinking it would cost more to replace them than to buy the reel. We've kinda of adopted this kid cause his family doesn't have much money so we've set him up with decent gear since he fishes there so much. I traded him a shimano speedmaster for the bag of parts, I know I'm a shrewd operator on that deal. Was hoping the gear might fit something else. Thanks again
Something Penn excelled at was using just a few main gears to produce a wide variety of size and speed in their reels. How did they accomplish that? With the pinion gear! Different size pinions gave a single size main a lot of options. I checked Mystic's info, and just the #5-60 main gear alone was used in 15 models! 5 different pinions were used in those 15 models, for a speed range of 2.3:1 up to 3.3:1. They did this by keeping their gears' pitch the same. This is why you'll see a #13-85 pinion used with either a #5-60 main(Longbeach 60) or a #5-500 main(Peer 309). These pics show how the #13-85 and #13-140 pinions varied in size, and even the spool shaft openings varied, but they retained the same pitch. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on March 31, 2018, 06:29:04 AM
I've been comparing the #5-60 gear to the #5-66 gear. Although these 2 gears are the same diameter, that's just about where the similarity ends. The photo below shows how much more robust the teeth are on the #5-66. It's also deeper, allowing more drag washers inside the gear. The #5-66 will allow a stock thickness 5-stack to be used, where fitting that arrangement into the #5-60 requires one of Bryan Young's 5-stack kits using very thin washers.
Moving along to the pinions used with these two gears, it doesn't take long to see which is the beefier design. The downfall of this mass though is lost speed. The tiny #13-140 pinion combined with the increased tooth count of the #5-60 main makes it the faster set up. We're seeing a trade off here...speed vs. strength...but how much faster? Or how much stronger?
I performed some low tech experiments, but real world experiments, with real world results. I converted the speed concern from gear ratios to "inches per turn"...each turn of the handle would draw in a length of line measured in inches. In the pic are gear sets from a black plate Senator 3/0(on left) and a Squidder 140.(on right) The Senator's set develops 2.25:1 while the Squidder's is rated at 3.3:1. The Senator brought in 12-13 inches per turn, while the Squidder cranked up 22-23 inches per turn. Around 10 inches more per turn.
That difference may be insignificant for some of my fishing, making the #5-66 something I could benefit from. I've always liked the #5-60's speed/power for catfishing, but I'm giving the #5-66 a whirl. Only time will tell if I'll like it better. The reduction in speed can be offset by added muscle for big fish. 8)
Hey Mo try this if you have a spare 113 4/0 Senator laying around. Get a 66 bridge, 66 pinion gear, & 66 yoke and slip them into a 113 plate with a 113 main gear. The gear sleeve will only be offset about .017". That will up the gear ratio a little & still give a strong set up with a 5 washer setup. (Grouper Special) Rudy
Quote from: RowdyW on March 26, 2019, 05:37:17 PM
Quote from: mo65 on March 31, 2018, 06:29:04 AM
I've been comparing the #5-60 gear to the #5-66 gear. Although these 2 gears are the same diameter, that's just about where the similarity ends. The photo below shows how much more robust the teeth are on the #5-66. It's also deeper, allowing more drag washers inside the gear. The #5-66 will allow a stock thickness 5-stack to be used, where fitting that arrangement into the #5-60 requires one of Bryan Young's 5-stack kits using very thin washers.
Moving along to the pinions used with these two gears, it doesn't take long to see which is the beefier design. The downfall of this mass though is lost speed. The tiny #13-140 pinion combined with the increased tooth count of the #5-60 main makes it the faster set up. We're seeing a trade off here...speed vs. strength...but how much faster? Or how much stronger?
I performed some low tech experiments, but real world experiments, with real world results. I converted the speed concern from gear ratios to "inches per turn"...each turn of the handle would draw in a length of line measured in inches. In the pic are gear sets from a black plate Senator 3/0(on left) and a Squidder 140.(on right) The Senator's set develops 2.25:1 while the Squidder's is rated at 3.3:1. The Senator brought in 12-13 inches per turn, while the Squidder cranked up 22-23 inches per turn. Around 10 inches more per turn.
That difference may be insignificant for some of my fishing, making the #5-66 something I could benefit from. I've always liked the #5-60's speed/power for catfishing, but I'm giving the #5-66 a whirl. Only time will tell if I'll like it better. The reduction in speed can be offset by added muscle for big fish. 8)
Hey Mo try this if you have a spare 113 4/0 Senator laying around. Get a 66 bridge, 66 pinion gear, & 66 yoke and slip them into a 113 plate with a 113 main gear. The gear sleeve will only be offset about .017". That will up the gear ratio a little & still give a strong set up with a 5 washer setup. (Grouper Special) Rudy
Sal had come up with a 5-149 main & 13-113H pinion combo that I have been wanting to try too.
Nice write up, Mo. Good to know the inches-per-turn numbers.
The main difference between the two is cost to gain .2 (2.6) in the gear ratio over the Grouper Special (2.4). Sal's needs a special drag washer set. I built one of Sal's with an Wide Accurate frame with Sal's help when he first came out with it. (Sal double dogged it for me.) I also have 4 Grouper Specials in narrow, standard, & wide widths. I really can't feel any difference when fishing them. Rudy
That particular combination with the 149 main and 113h pinion is to me the smoothest reel,
A few others feel the same way, but of course not everyone🙂
Sal
Interesting, Rudy, about the 113 main (with 13-49 pinion and 66 yoke & bridge) having more room for OEM drag washers. Hope I got that right.
Mo, sorry for the hijack ::) Good thread.
Quote from: Decker on March 27, 2019, 08:33:17 PM
Mo, sorry for the hijack ::) Good thread.
No hijack there Joe...it's all good gear talk. The more you guys chat the more I learn! 8)
Quote from: Decker on March 27, 2019, 08:33:17 PM
Interesting, Rudy, about the 113 main (with 13-49 pinion and 66 yoke & bridge) having more room for OEM drag washers. Hope I got that right.
Mo, sorry for the hijack ::) Good thread.
Decker, the 113 gear can be loaded with 6-60 drag washers for a 5 stack instead of the 6-113 drag washers which are a 3 stack. Pinion is from a longbeach 66, which is the same in the 66, 67, & 68. Sal's setup uses a 49 main & 113H pinion & needs a special custom drag set from Bryan. 113 & 113H are 2 different reels.
Quote from: RowdyW on March 27, 2019, 11:53:10 PM
Decker, the 113 gear can be loaded with 6-60 drag washers for a 5 stack instead of the 6-113 drag washers which are a 3 stack.
Thanks, Rudy! Found a thread for this that specs it all out ;D: https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4500.msg34527#msg34527
I'm surprised you don't remember the 5-stack mod for the #5-66 gear Joe. I think we talked about it when you hooked me up with the stand and spool for this "Frankendream". ;D
Is there a link on the post for 149 main and 113 pinion
Quote from: mo65 on March 28, 2019, 02:04:36 PM
I'm surprised you don't remember the 5-stack mod for the #5-66 gear Joe. I think we talked about it when you hooked me up with the stand and spool for this "Frankendream". ;D
Thanks for the reminder, Mo. ...Another thing waiting for me to find a round-tuit :D I want to do a 111 pig-puller.
That's a helluva catfish winch!
P.S. That DAM Quick 330 you did for me is my go-to saltwater spinner.
Quote from: sharkman on March 29, 2019, 12:15:35 PM
Is there a link on the post for 149 main and 113 pinion
Sharkman, in the vein of "give a man a fish," versus "teach a man to fish," here is how to find that... In Google Search, enter this: "site:alantani.com 5-149 13-113H Sal" and search. The "site:alantani.com" part limits the search to this site. Try that... like shooting fish in a barrel. ;D
Thanks Decker, I found it.
Quote from: Decker on March 29, 2019, 12:35:00 PM
That DAM Quick 330 you did for me is my go-to saltwater spinner.
That's great Joe! I'm glad it's working so well. 8)
Quote from: Alto Mare on March 26, 2019, 10:24:11 PM
That particular combination with the 149 main and 113h pinion is to me the smoothest reel,
A few others feel the same way, but of course not everyone🙂
Sal
The 149 main/113H pinion is indeed a fantastic upgrade for 4/0, 3/0, and 2/0 black Penn Senators. It requires a little Dremel work, but the increased speed is
very usable. This double dogged 4/0 Senator is sporting the 149 main/113H pinion upgrade. Kudos to Sal for discovering a killer gearing combo. 8)
Again, really nice dremel work Mo, but you need to get out more :)
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on April 20, 2020, 07:00:38 AM
Again, really nice dremel work Mo, but you need to get out more :)
-steve
With the current Pandemic lock downs here in Ohio...there ain't much to do outside. Sittin' in the cave piddling with my reels will hopefully pass the time. My spare parts are so organized now it's unnatural. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on April 24, 2020, 09:54:06 PM
Quote from: oc1 on April 20, 2020, 07:00:38 AM
Again, really nice dremel work Mo, but you need to get out more :)
-steve
With the current Pandemic lock downs here in Ohio...there ain't much to do outside. Sittin' in the cave piddling with my reels will hopefully pass the time. My spare parts are so organized now it's unnatural. 8)
Mo, for a guy that turns out so many beautiful reels, you sure have a compact bone yard!
Little plastic tubs---good idea.
I suppose there's more cleanin an organizin goin on in the world now than ever before.
Quote from: Gfish on April 27, 2020, 03:33:34 PM
Little plastic tubs---good idea.
They worked out very well G. Then inside the tubs all the parts are in individual bags.(mostly left from Mystic orders) I guess I really don't have much...when compared to some of these guys...I wouldn't have much of anything if it weren't for Ted. I saw this morning Lee needed a side plate and before I could even answer two fellows offered one. That is the greatest thing about this site. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on May 01, 2020, 07:22:49 PM
That is the greatest thing about this site. 8)[/color]
100%!
I'm surprised along with Joe. I thought your stuff would fill Fred's trailer, lol. I bet your reels would, eh? ;D
Quote from: Keta on February 14, 2018, 02:40:47 PM
I plan on making drawings like the one below available as I make them. I will start with the gears I have and can ID but will need help with ones I do not have or can't ID. If there is interest I will make a data gathering template.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1583_13_02_18_11_50_04.jpeg)
How did this go? My friend in our college fishing club is a fellow PENN head and we are thinking of making a google doc to list all the parts, cross compatibility and combinations, kinda like a "PENN reel bible".
That would be great. The only dimensions I would add is the size of the notch, that determines what spools it will fit.
The Man
Quote... we are thinking of making a google doc to list all the parts, cross compatibility...
Y'know, i have a bìg binder of schematics Penn sent me like 25 years ago. In that i think there was a list of common parts, or that you could tell by looking at the part numbers if it was a common part among other reels. Now, that doesn't do the job for you, but it would probably make it a tad easier. I"ll have a look tomorrow. I betcha Fred would have a similar list.
.
Quote from: Ron Jones on May 04, 2020, 05:33:58 PM
That would be great. The only dimensions I would add is the size of the notch, that determines what spools it will fit.
The Man
i winder if the notch (female) can be milled out to be bigger? or the spools "male end" milled down? that would be a great addition tho.
Quote from: Robert Janssen on May 04, 2020, 06:13:07 PM
Quote... we are thinking of making a google doc to list all the parts, cross compatibility...
Y'know, i have a bìg binder of schematics Penn sent me like 25 years ago. In that i think there was a list of common parts, or that you could tell by looking at the part numbers if it was a common part among other reels. Now, that doesn't do the job for you, but it would probably make it a tad easier. I"ll have a look tomorrow. I betcha Fred would have a similar list.
.
Everything helps, between my friend Adam and I we can get alot done, plus we can recruit more. Im sure a bunch of tech savvy college kids could wipe this out in a few weeks, and turn out a book....
I know it's ridiculously nit-picky, but units of measure might be a "thing".
hi, do you know of a better pinion gear for a penn 9m? i have 6 of these that i use for freshwater trolling, and since i'm not very good at reel repair yet, and have arthritis in my fingers, i seem to be going through these faster than normal (every 2-3 seasons) thanks
Quote from: quabbin boy 62 on July 27, 2020, 11:35:45 AM
hi, do you know of a better pinion gear for a penn 9m? i have 6 of these that i use for freshwater trolling, and since i'm not very good at reel repair yet, and have arthritis in my fingers, i seem to be going through these faster than normal (every 2-3 seasons) thanks
I don't think there is an option for the Peerless 9 pinion...that reel uses it's own size pinion gear. I haven't opened a lot of 9s, but I do know my older one has a steel pinion. Maybe the newer ones are brass? Switching from brass to steel would help you...other than that I guess using a larger reel would help. 8)
Has anybody played with main/pinion combinations for the 309 to try and get a higher retrieve speed on it? I read on some of the older Newell kits that they fit the 309 but I can't see how that would work, seeing as the 85 seaboy pinion is different than the jigmaster pinion.
Maybe something can be made to fit by fitting a different pinion and gear combo, and maybe sleeving the inside or boring out a pinion to fit?
If only I had a sack of parts to dig through to see what would work. I only have 209 parts on hand and won't have the 309 (and a 109 :) ) until thursday. ???
Quote from: Lingwendil on July 27, 2020, 06:36:36 PM
Has anybody played with main/pinion combinations for the 309 to try and get a higher retrieve speed on it?
This has been discussed a few times, and determined a dead end street. You're correct...the pinion size limits options. If you want a faster 309...the Penn 210 is your boy. It will do everything the 309 will do...at a 4:1 ratio. Another faster Penn levelwind reel is the 320/330 series. 8)
I have a 210 already, and it sure is a heck of a reel. I do try and fish every reel I own, even if just occasionally, so I think I'll just enjoy the 309's leisurely paced return speed for what it is then. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on July 27, 2020, 07:34:26 PM
. If you want a faster 309...the Penn 210 is your boy. It will do everything the 309 will do...at a 4:1 ratio. 8)
A 210 can go 5:1 with 505 gears. Yet another unfinished project in my storage bins ::)
So the 505 gears will just drop in to a 210?
Quote from: Swami805 on July 28, 2020, 11:33:31 AM
So the 505 gears will just drop in to a 210?
If I remember correctly Sheridan...you'll need to grind the lip off the 505 gear or grind away some plate. Joe, can you remember what thread we talked about that? Post a link if you can. 8)
Thanks Moe, I looked around but couldn't find anything
Quote from: mo65 on July 28, 2020, 12:19:03 PM
Quote from: Swami805 on July 28, 2020, 11:33:31 AM
So the 505 gears will just drop in to a 210?
If I remember correctly Sheridan...you'll need to grind the lip off the 505 gear or grind away some plate. Joe, can you remember what thread we talked about that? Post a link if you can. 8)
I had a go at fitting the the 505 gears in my cut down 210, and you're correct Mo the main is a bit tall and needs to be ground down to fit - and the slot in the pinion gear was a hair too narrow to fit the spool shaft shoulder. The Pro Challenger 4.8: 1 gear set was a drop in and seemed to work well - see the last page of this post https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23852.30 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23852.30)
Mike