Hello all. I am.making a thread on my 80 TW rebuild.i have always wanted one and picked up this one that looked like it had fallen out of the bed of a truck going 80 mph down a gravel road. But, I have plans for that.
I'll start by posting pictures of the original condition.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/Screenshot_2017-04-23-13-06-54_zpsnkljr0ql.png)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_181904_zpsbqetor2q.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_181920_zpsbgjekcov.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_181927_zpsbhflelgd.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_185400_zpsw0z0ljed.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_181910_zpswiryayei.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_222056_zps8eytmtpq.jpg)
After a whole can of liquid wrench, and 9 days of soaking I started taking out the side plate screws to have 2 of them corroded and frozen and 1 stripped out and corroded frozen. I used an easy out bit to drill through the heads. I had no luck with the extractor so I went into drilling them out.
The frozen stripped screw in the picture below was ground down using an air cut off tool wheel to remove the chrome plate, then drilled out the remaining screw.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_222047_zpsxzicotgj_edit_1493950684330_zpsgl3rflqm.jpg)
I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I hope it goes well although you have had a tricky start already and who knows what may be lurking inside. Brings tears to my eyes to see great gear mistreated like that. Good luck in restoring it to full functionality even if its beauty might be a little, um, tarnished.
Thank you. I plan on doing a custom color paint job and have already restored the main side plate I just haven't had time to post the progress that far yet. I must say I am pleased with the results as of now.
After getting the screws drilled out and getting the reel opened up here are the pictures.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170426_222040_zpscwibqbbq.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_074609_zpsbphyqhnc.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_074628_zpsueavb7qo.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_074706_zps2xifwjpo.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_074650_zpssvo20nyk.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_074730_zps14vsjihl.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_090314_zpsrcs38oav.jpg)
Last one of the soak bucket.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170428_090319_zpsrl9ngjui.jpg)
While the parts were soaking I ordered some replacement bearings from fast eddy in case I couldn't restore the original bearings or they were damaged and to stay within budget for the project. Eventually I will upgrade the bearings.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170504_084033_zpsgsfzz581.jpg)
Original bearing with damaged cover.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170504_082245_zpsarbngy5a.jpg)
I soaked the bearings in a zip lock bag for 2 days with liquid wrench. I them removed the shields.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170504_082333_zpspj1wcqeb.jpg)
The bearings looked good and only showed surface rust on the housing. I lightly sanded the surface rust away and used carb cleaner and compressed air to dry them.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170504_083548_zpsteyxogpr.jpg)
I then packed the non spool bearings with marine grease.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170504_084234_zpsjtsgjvou.jpg)
Next step is installing them in the refurbished end plate.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170502_133031_zpsvst4fxh2.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170502_134410_zpspva3tm9f.jpg)
My special cheat tool for pulling bearings is a paint can opening tool.
I used JB Weld Steel Stik epoxy putty to fill in the cleaned corrosion spots and dents. I applied, waited 30 min, then used my belt sander to sand the spots smooth. (Sorry was too dirty for pictures).
I made a protective for the inside of the housing using cardboard. I then sanded and filled in the worst corrosion spots with JB Weld Steel Stik. I kneaded the material in small pieces and used wax paper and a rolling pin to make it very flat before molding it to the reel so there was less to sand. I then primer ed with a self etching primer.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_105559_zpsptoqmgqz.jpg)
I didn't realize how much the anodizing hid the imperfections. I didn't like the finished result so started back at square one using acetone and aircraft remover to strip it down. A little more filler and another sand job.
Meanwhile I began the spool portion with sanding and wire wheel.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170503_135225_zpspsuwffyf.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170503_135232_zpspocvtmsu.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170503_135239_zpsasqhuv3h.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170503_135243_zpsxyzsqqya.jpg)
I let 2 coats of primer dry for 24 hours, then it was on to the base coat. I didn't want to do much filling here, so I kept it minimal on the spool.
Minimal Filling, sanding, 2 primer coats, 2 base coats and 3 clear coats later the finished spool...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_161004_zpsm7hyx9wo.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_161031_zpspcnggv9j.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_161013_zpsfr9nek9i.jpg)
With some down time between coats and sanding I decided to open my bearings completely and run them 'naked' as maintenance will be easy on this reel once completed. I got the originals bearings extremely clean and smooth using a soaking in rubbing alcohol and gentle periodic shaking method.
(//)
Now time to take apart the other side.
Coercion with a rubber mallet and a block of wood results in the separation of parts once the screws are removed. I also removed the strike and full knobs by depressing them, then removing the retainer clip underneath. Inspection shows no abnormalities, so I'm unsure why the one was sticking. The clicker knob was removed with a single nut removal.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170511_075543_zps9x0jdsmp.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170511_075509_zpsbfmdtbyf.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170511_075524_zpsw5c23tm3.jpg)
And now what? You guessed it, filling, sanding, wire wheel and then primer.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170511_083446_zpscrazhdk1.jpg)
While I had sand paper out, I roughed up the other parts, cleaned them with carb cleaner, then primer time only taping off the plastic part of the reel handle.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_105548_zpsxjqsyyrc.jpg)
Next up, the frame. I put as many screws as I could salvage back into the frame to lessen the tap and die cleanup after all the other work.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_112002_zpsyjpwrwwh.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_111948_zpssvctlnag.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_112012_zpsqgmklzow.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_112019_zpso8br2m2m.jpg)
Now this is going to take some work....
PennDaddy, great write up so far....please keep us posted on the progression.....Bill
Nice work PD - looking forward to seeing more!
Cheers, Justin
Thank you. It's a slow process. Next up is everything self etching primed, sanded and ready for final coat.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_105014_zpstxfqm2ly.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_105548_zpsxjqsyyrc.jpg)
Perhaps a little more sanding before final coat..
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170510_105609_zpsm7p5by76.jpg)
After more sanding, the final coat started on the left side plate..
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170514_080442_zpsb0zjwhyy.jpg)
There is some minor pitting showing up in the final coat but it is far from where it was.
Here is the frame primered...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170514_080457_zpsuvbz9vtj.jpg)
So far the frame has turned out excellent with most of the major damage repaired and the horrific corrosion from the rod mount almost unnoticeable.
I received all my parts I ordered yesterday. Some of the parts came from JDL TREASURES on E-bay. They have a great deal going on now, with 25 percent off orders when you buy more than two parts! Excellent transaction, and some of the best packing I have seen. The rest of the parts they didn't have, were ordered from Scott's MysticParts website. I also ordered some reel -X lubricant after doing some research for reassembly. More to come soon...
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
What products did you use to paint and prime?
I really like the torx head screws for these reels. They are very easy to remove with an impact driver even if corrosion builds.
Nice work on the rebuild. Looks good so far.
Thank you. I have been using Rustoleum brand self etching primer. I would have liked to get the toe head screws and may in the future. I am using VHT brand high temperature wheel paint for the color coats and also the clear finishing coats. More pictures to come. I picked the paint up at my local Auto Zone. I chose this paint due to it's scratch resistance. Only time and use will prove if it is.
Thank you!
Looking good! Love the spool.
Is the paint hard when dry?
I ask because I was planning to restore and re-paint a Mitchell fixed spool reel. Someone had said use heat-resistant engine paint but there was a reply to say that such paint needs the heat to make it set hard. I note you have used wheel paint not engine paint.
I was planning to try Humbrol spray enamel. I once used it on the bodywork of an old car I had and the paint was tougher than the steel!
Keep up the good work.
Quote from: alantani on May 15, 2017, 03:55:33 PM
Thank you!
No. Thank you. This site has helped me so much. I would have never braved a reel tune up let alone a rebuild without your tips, tricks and tactics listed here. We owe you a debt of gratitude!
Quote from: UKChris on May 15, 2017, 04:02:13 PM
Looking good! Love the spool.
Is the paint hard when dry?
I ask because I was planning to restore and re-paint a Mitchell fixed spool reel. Someone had said use heat-resistant engine paint but there was a reply to say that such paint needs the heat to make it set hard. I note you have used wheel paint not engine paint.
I was planning to try Humbrol spray enamel. I once used it on the bodywork of an old car I had and the paint was tougher than the steel!
Keep up the good work.
Thank you. I thought the paint was hard after 2 hours, and turned it over and laid it on a towel for some pictures. When I flipped it back over, the towels impression was left into the paint. Well that just added another day of sanding. I will update you on the hardness as I resanded and sprayed it again. It doesn't say anywhere that it needs heat to cure. I believe it has heat resistant properties, so that it won't peel or change colors from the exposure.
I am going with matte black and two colors of gray for a military plane type look. The spool looks great and the other plates are coming along. I'm getting nervous about the reassembly as it is a lot of parts. :o
Quote from: PennDaddy on May 16, 2017, 01:30:14 AM
Quote from: alantani on May 15, 2017, 03:55:33 PM
Thank you!
No. Thank you. This site has helped me so much. I would have never braved a reel tune up let alone a rebuild without your tips, tricks and tactics listed here. We owe you a debt of gratitude!
Update:
I got the final coats on and read the instructions on the can. The VHT paint needs 7 days to harden. Ouch. I have been waiting and it has 3 more days. I'll update when it is finished.
Top work so far Penndaddy. I have also been down this path refurbishing an old Daiwa 300 (still a work in progress) and can appreciate the effort you have put into this. Please keep us posted. This reel can stop just about anything that swims, and is well worth saving. I hope you get to catch a fish of a lifetime on it when it's completed.
Thank you. I hope so as well. Here's a shot of the final coat of base.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170514_080442_zpsb0zjwhyy.jpg)
Finished side plate. It turned out very good in my mind. There are a few bubbles that turned into dimples. I assume it is from oils not completely removed. I did use brake cleaner, carb cleaner, and also aircraft remover with finally rubbing alcohol prep. Here is the finished side plate.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170515_154826_zpstrswmyre.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170515_154844_zps6lpmfzrv.jpg)
Here is a picture of the inside with my card board paint shield installed.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170515_154924_zps7yfnat5t.jpg)
Removed. Some dust did get in from sanding so I redid the grease job.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170515_155100_zps2snl4ner.jpg)
About here is where I started learning a lesson about the tight specs of a penn reel. I will discuss this later. Notice I built up the major corrosion around the screws with the putty and actually attempted to make the screw holes sealed.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170515_184539_zpsmnoeynv3.jpg)
Here is the primered right side plate. Again dimples that reappeared after sanding and reprimering. I built up around the clicker where corrosion had borrowed some metal.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170515_184546_zpswycm1yk5.jpg)
The finished right side plate and the tap and die cleaning out all thread holes.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_083041_zps3zqnlou6.jpg)
I am following this thread with great interest. This is something I have often considered doing. I have had some pretty badly corroded reels accross my bench. Customers have requested cosmetic and corrosion-arresting refinishing work. Short of refering them to anodizers, I was (and still am?) hesitant to dive into this kind of work. Looks like it certainly can be done at home, but is likely (I suspect) time/energy expensive, likely cost prohibitive for customers reels. Still, I may give this type of thing a try on one if my parts reels (if I am ever looking fir a project).
Looking good!
Keep up the good work, and watch those spacing issues on the rebuild/tuning end of things.
John
Thank you for following. I have learned many lessons which I hope will help others should they venture down this road. I will put these lessons and tips/tricks into a post when I am done. If you're a perfectionist like me, this kind of project will drive you mad. If you have reels that were as bad as this one, with a hourly rate of 10 dollars per hour, it would be cheaper for them to buy a new high end reel. I have some tips to cut some time down, but the corrosion is difficult to combat.
There is definitely spacing issues and I will get into them. I initially wanted to make thin gaskets to go around the end of reel frame, but it would be very difficult. I have painted spinning reels before, but the bigger surfaces of this reel prove to be more difficult to hide flaws. I am a little further ahead on this project than my posts but I'll keep them coming.
Here is a picture of the refurbished clicker flat black with the bolt painted grey.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_083153_zpspvzw64lm.jpg)
All my new parts sorted and ready. I went ahead and replaced everything with the drag as it looked worn out and unreliable.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_083455_zps517qjtqd.jpg)
A lot of my salvaged screws were reconditioned using CLR in a small tupper ware container for about 15 minutes with and occasional shake, followed by the same process using isopropyl alcohol.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_085650_zpsuii5t2r7.jpg)
Now I start installing hardware back onto the spool making sure to lightly grease surfaces.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_090926_zpsmr4n3xl6.jpg)
I don't have a fancy greaser, so for the screws I dip them into the grease or use a Q tip for application.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_090932_zpspqdjs50y.jpg)
First side finished with the reconditioned fully "open" bearings.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_091951_zpsoobvmymc.jpg)
I'm still loving this thread.
I have an Int. 30W that is just about perfect inside but is pug-ugly because of the corrosion outside on the frame.
I cleaned it up a bit and then painted over the corroded parts with Humbrol enamel paint - gold - which wasn't too bad a match at first. But, on reflection, it is still looking pretty ugly. The craters of corrosion are still there, just a bit golden rather than a bit black.
Do i have the courage to follow in your footsteps, sir? Not sure...
Thanks Chris. Wait until my last tips post when I'm done and I will simplify it. It can be done. The reason I am doing it is I figured I had nothing to lose. Worst case scenario is having to re strip it down and leave it the way it was.
On to the other side of the spool.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_092927_zpsaseaxw9c.jpg)
Here's a close up of the refinished original bearings.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_092953_zpshwfxb36v.jpg)
Here is the original drag washers (Top) and the new upgrades (Below).
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_093555_zpsq7ynpa5v.jpg)
The other side...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_093610_zpsqduxuqvc.jpg)
I greased the new drag washers with Cal's. I like to use my finger, and do a rotational pattern similar to vehicle waxing. Then, I reverse the swirls.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_094008_zpsmjxyevkl.jpg)
Excess grease removed and ready for installation.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_094800_zpszxyogieh.jpg)
Then new drag washer and bellevilles. I will install them using the stock (()) configuration.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_095002_zpssue2mevh.jpg)
And here's a picture of the refinished cam. I used a very gentle wire wheel followed by a polishing wheel.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_095201_zpsvvykfauz.jpg)
Side by side drag washers. New on the left and old on the right. The old one had deep grooves and I had to replace it.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_095330_zpsjrpu7j51.jpg)
Stock Belleville orientation. (())
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_095426_zpst7znpmfb.jpg)
Installed.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_100106_zpsxz3pu9gy.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_100332_zps3gwrkenq.jpg)
Cleaned and polished drag cap ready for jnstall.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_100446_zpscfpcepcb.jpg)
Otherside.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_100452_zpsknulvb8d.jpg)
Completed. Ah deep breathe.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_101303_zps3gijzkbf.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_101556_zpsdxzbjncj.jpg)
Finished left side plate under side.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170516_103747_zpsg8vplnum.jpg)
Now it's time to move onto the right side of the reel. I start by lightly greasing the 2 contact surfaces between the right side plate assembly and the bridge and press together.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_131933_zpszhh4htit.jpg)
Then a little more grease on the inside.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_131947_zpsqt0fukci.jpg)
Off to the side I put together the cam follower assembly. Lightly greasing everything and packing the bearings.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_134436_zpsb9nhh46f.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_134447_zpsp8redmoi.jpg)
Now installing the brass cup that I couldn't find a name for. Again lightly greased.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_135340_zpsobqd6agt.jpg)
Then the number 60 backing washer. I greased this lightly because it had grease on it upon disassembly.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_140105_zpszhxfwmd3.jpg)
On to the preset drag knob installation.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_140121_zpsbyut6fyn.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_140135_zpsnhid5h7y.jpg)
And the cup now screwed into place. These small screws had washers on them.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_145109_zpsholbrvnb.jpg)
The clicker now installed, the drag lever, washer and plate set into place.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_160015_zps7zp5ndne.jpg)
And then screwed into place.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_160411_zpseniaagb9.jpg)
The refurbished main gear ready for grease and installation.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_160550_zpsrjfvezgw.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_160600_zps7eyhrbeq.jpg)
Greased and Installed with the handle.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_162801_zpsnap9etbb.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_162811_zpsqqq9mxfn.jpg)
And 2 holes that need tap and die cleaned. .
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170520_162820_zpsam43pb8x.jpg)
Arrrgghhhh....talk about a cliff hanger....Tune in next week, same Bat time, same Bat channel.....you're killing me Smalls... ;D ;D
Very impressive....Great work brother....Bill
Yes, this is like one of those old time Serials at the movie theatre. Just got to go back next week and see what happened. Really impressed with the attention to detail and the refinishing. I wouldn't have thought the parts would fit together with the extra coats of paint.
I'll be looking often!
josa1
Cliffhangers make interesting stories. ;)
I didn't think the parts would fit back together either. It did take "some" resanding and light scraping. I plan in doing a synopsis at the end as well as a tips section.
Stay tuned....
Now I move on to the badly corroded bottom of the reel. I really built this up due to the corrosion. The threads cleaned out, and ready for the base.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_111153_zpsigzaele5.jpg)
Next up is the left side of the reel.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_112426_zpsc3txmkwt.jpg)
And the right side...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_121605_zpsxklrtwzy.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_121547_zpsmsw78yom.jpg)
Base installed with excess grease coming from the sides.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_121926_zpsqymkpbaj.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_121932_zpscyakf33p.jpg)
Final pictures...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_121337_zpss2f3rh9w.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/Point%20Blur_May222017_143150_zpsr8qi6y51.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/2017-05-23%2007.30.02_zpsdbs0kgon.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_125511_zps4q0eflkz.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_125533_zpsl5dkccpv.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170522_125722_zpswnopqnxm.jpg)
Lots of work, patience and experimenting have transformed my reel. It went from a cosmetic 4 and functional 7 to a cosmetic 8 and functional 10. I think it looks pretty slick comparative and I may come back with a fine felt tip sharpie and do the letters on the logo in black. Now for the line and then fishing!
Next post is tips...
Nice work! That looks like a military grade stealth winch. I've done a bit of same here and there, but just to flush out a spool or something internal. Let us know how this paint holds up. I, and many others, have Spinfishers that could use a coat...
Now for the tips. This process can be done and can be simplified. Here are my recommendations.
Bake the reel. Yes that's right. I bought a small electric counter top oven at Walmart. After I had cleaned the main parts of the reel with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, then rubbing alcohol, I placed the sides and frame into the oven separately. After reading some articles, I decided to do it. I was at 300 degrees and the two side both received 30 minutes a piece. I started with the screw holes up, then after 15 minutes rotated them down with tongs. The frame got 15 minutes per side equaling 1 hour. There was a small place of some kind of oil or grease on the bottom of the oven when done. I wouldn't suggest using the family oven for this.
If building up an area of the reel, really score the area before using the putty. Half of the putty I placed came right off after drying. After rescoring more than before, it adhered better. The putty is where most of the imperfections showed through the paint, assuming it had absorbed some oil or something.
Next time, I would put the reel together, just sides and frame, and fill the middle of the frame with wadded newspaper or pool noodle to avoid over spray and excessive paint layer build up. You would be surprised what a single extra layer of paint or over spray will do to the fitment of these reels.
To avoid filling in screw holes, use a small amount of play dough. Excessive paint in the screw holes chipped off upon final assembly taking some nearby paint with it. Assemble the reel, screw it together with just a few screws, play dough in the holes, and then prime and paint and seal.
I wouldn't buy a new reel and try this. This is more a "what have I got to lose" tactic. When I purchased this reel I really didn't care if it looked gnarly as long as it functioned. Then I got the idea to try to reanodize it. The quote I got was 100 dollars to strip it and another 100 to 200 to reanodize it based on a few factors. This was more than I paid for the reel.
Experiment. Try different things. You can always strip it back to where it was before. I did this about 3 times and it was fairly easy using aircraft remover.
Be patient and be prepared for surprises. Things needing sanded or stripped to just a primer and 1 coat later to fit back together.
Watch the humidity and where you are painting. It does affect it. I had it in my garage and put a layer on the left side plate during the wrong time and ended up with a layer of bubbles. Another layer fell victim to outside temps as I had the garage door cracked open for drying and ended with another layer or bubbles.
Wait long enough for the paint to be completely dry. I was impatient.
If you can't wait like me, take off your wedding ring. When tightening down, a quick slip will give you a nice little chip or scratch if the paint hasn't completely set.
If you have some experience with paint you can do this. I will update on the paint durability after trips. It may not be frequent as this will be a deep drop/ kite bait/ sword reel. On my side of the state, that's a 80 plus mile run.
Now get out there and paint and post some pics!!
Quote from: thorhammer on May 23, 2017, 11:59:19 AM
Nice work! That looks like a military grade stealth winch. I've done a bit of same here and there, but just to flush out a spool or something internal. Let us know how this paint holds up. I, and many others, have Spinfishers that could use a coat...
Thanks! I used 2 different matte gray colors and a matte black for the military/ stealth look. I may end up putting an A-10 sticker on the side. Something along these lines...
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/CY64J1NWcAALBH5_zpsiritrfyv.jpeg)
The graphics portion anyways.
The Warthog. no nonsense and deadly. very appropriate.
Mounted on my rod awaiting line..
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170601_112847_zpscrkza7qh.jpg)
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/20170601_112903_zpsqoiyevd9.jpg)
I have to respectfully ask. How many dollars do you have in the reel now?
Keith
Congratulations it looks great. I hope it will hold up. Dominick
Love the look .
Maybe now a retro all glass rod , rebuilt in the same colors ?
Thank you. Not including the backup bearings I bought and didn't use, rod or reel cover, I have a rounded up total of 330 dollars (US). I had all of the tools and other things like Cal's drag grease and the marine grease.
I have definitely considered redoing an old rod in the same colors as there is several rod building places around. 1 of them is a class in which you build your own rod with help.
I will post updates as I fish it as to the durability of the paint finish.
hi, wanted to ask what tool you used to remove the hidden bridge screws. im working on a 80 stw and cant get the hidden bridge screws removed, on parts diagram, they look like the yare flat head screws, but when i peer down the hole with a flashlight, i dont see the slot. and they look like hex heads. i tried every size hex head bit and none seem to grab the screw, so im not sure if they are are stripped or possibly not the originals. thanks for all help.
Quote from: SumthinFishy on June 06, 2017, 12:47:29 AM
hi, wanted to ask what tool you used to remove the hidden bridge screws. im working on a 80 stw and cant get the hidden bridge screws removed, on parts diagram, they look like the yare flat head screws, but when i peer down the hole with a flashlight, i dont see the slot. and they look like hex heads. i tried every size hex head bit and none seem to grab the screw, so im not sure if they are are stripped or possibly not the originals. thanks for all help.
They are typically flat heads but may be torq heads.
John
Quote from: SumthinFishy on June 06, 2017, 12:47:29 AM
hi, wanted to ask what tool you used to remove the hidden bridge screws. im working on a 80 stw and cant get the hidden bridge screws removed, on parts diagram, they look like the yare flat head screws, but when i peer down the hole with a flashlight, i dont see the slot. and they look like hex heads. i tried every size hex head bit and none seem to grab the screw, so im not sure if they are are stripped or possibly not the originals. thanks for all help.
By hidden bridge screws I assume you mean the ones underneath the Bridge(#3) on the inside of the reel.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/2017-06-06%2020.25.26_zpszfa7q24e.jpg)
These screws are not recessed and are almost always flat head screws.
If you are talking about the screws under the quadrant ring on the outside of the reel.
(http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p507/Brian_McCullough/Reel%20Rebuild/2017-06-06%2020.46.11_zpsvxmbdh6w.jpg)
Those screws above can be flat or torn head. I received a torn head replacement screw from Scotts for that area, and it is a size 15 torn head.
If that doesn't work you will have to drill it out. You should only have to drill a little ways down and then you can pop off the side plate and use vice grips to remove the screw portion that remains.
If you are talking of another screw let me know what the number is on the diagram and I'll try to help.
If the screws holding the bridge need drilling out do it from inside the plate, and only drill the depth of the plate. If the bridge us still frozen, remove the cam pocket retaining screws, support the plate at its edge and press tye pocket through the bridge with an arbor press, or use a hardened socket and a hammer. Be careful not to bend the plate or cam retainer.
Fascinating work on your Restoration PennDaddy!
I love the Grey and Black look.
Reminds me more of a Battleship than a warthog.
Someone give this man a Cigar! ;)
The USS New Jersey had some mighty big guns.
I would put a 62 on the side and call it a day. ;D
JMO
This was a great restoration job PennDaddy you should be very proud :)
Nice work, thanks for taking the time to record the process and sharing your tips with the rest of us.
Mike
Thanks everyone. The battle ship idea is cool. First trip out and it was a success. Trolling with the rod out it landed 2 Mahi. Not much action on the kite other than some small kingfish. The paint held up well. The only part that sustained any damage was the harness lugs. I'm not sure where or how it happened but it happened. More reports to follow.
Nice. You can troll a mahi as bait on that winch!!!
Lol I thought about trying It.