I'm one of those guys who falls into the "hobbyist" category...I don't have any ultrasonic cleaners or professional tools. I'm sure there are many others in the same shoes who want to restore their vintage reels. I see a lot of folks asking "how do I remove corrosion?" and "what do I polish with?"...maybe I can offer some help here.
First off, it's not rocket science. Normal household items can get the job done very well. Green corrosion will simply melt away with normal white vinegar. A short soak is all it takes, and rinsing with clean water will stop the chemical action. Now your parts are neutralized, you won't find green crap growing again in 3 months.
This Monofil 26 I'm demonstrating with was a rare treat, as it had no corrosion, it must have been fished in freshwater. Therefore, we can skip straight to grime removal. It has the normal dried up grease and oil, varnished and stuck on pretty well. These first photos show the reel as I received it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4679/24692103637_29debcea87_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DBXu9M) (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4642/25689418338_2aa99490df_n.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F95Z4Q)
Here's a look at the general condition of some of the parts. Note the grime on the handle, that is where we'll start.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4728/39559517831_aee80b1dad_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gJSqg)
I'm going to use a product that has been beat up pretty good on the forums...WD-40. True, WD-40 is not a good reel lubricant. But, it is an excellent reel cleaner! Nothing removes dried on grease, oil, or varnished WD-40 itself better than a fresh squirt of WD-40! In the pic below you'll see WD-40 running down the handle, the grime already loosening.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4691/39530060132_c4c1f3a8bc_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23e8TEU)
Wow, a quick wipe with a paper towel and the grime is gone. No scrubbing...no scratching...no problem.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4590/27783235029_4329c7fb67_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jk7kPB)
Same story with these drive parts. They are sticky to the touch, no wonder the anti-reverse barely works. I thought the main gear was bronze until I removed the under gear washer, revealing the true color. A quick "squirt and wipe" will clean these parts too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/39559473601_f9b83e6b7b_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gJDgF)
Boy howdy, looks like they're ready to be washed.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4590/27783234359_9aa17a3b38_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jk7kC4)
Final washing is where the parts get their shine. I use simple kitchen products for this also. Dish detergent and baking soda work great. Old toothbrushes reach into nooks and crannies, excellent for scrubbing side plates. The photo below shows a technique I use for posts, stands, and rings. With the parts in the palm of your hand, add a shot of dish soap and a shake of baking soda.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4689/39530060432_e493f9b64b_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23e8TL5)
Now add a little warm water and rub your hands together, like you're trying to warm them over a fire.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4687/39559476321_c3eab11be5_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gJE5z)
Look at those posts...they look like the day they were made over 70 years ago! Let's slap 'er back together.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4598/27783236079_ecd47806a4_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jk7m8H)
She looks like new money...even smells good. All functions are crisp and tight. I've been waiting patiently for one of these...now all I need is the grey Monofil 25 and I'll have all three Coloromic Monofils. 8)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4739/39559472541_3a45a4552f_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gJCXp)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/27783233239_3248ca6357_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jk7khK)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4690/39559470941_98c403f91f_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23gJCtP)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4725/24692104147_cc079f282d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DBXuiz)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4587/25689418738_433cac0fba_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F95ZbJ)
Mo that reel looks super clean with crisp lines and writing. Great job.
Excellent tutorial and wow does that reel pop ! Looks fresh out of the box.
Thanks for posting this, great advice, it looks new. Never tried the baking soda and detergent, but l will next time.
Mo, some great servicing advice right there but that reel sucks and is not worthy of your collection. You can store it in mine for safekeeping :)
Mo; Looks like you've got the right idea for a simple cleaning product for a dirty job, my hat is off to you.
Joe
Good job Mo !! Thanks for all the tips. This will help me with mine in the future.
Nice clean look.
x2 on the WD-40. I think it gets a bad reputation from people who don't understand its intended use. It's an excellent solvent. In fact I have an owner's manual from Shimano which recommends it for wiping down your reels after each fresh water rinse. I like the WD-40 because it's gentle and really gets the job done. It's also much less flammable than many other solvents and it won't harm finishes like the purple detergents will.
Mike
Cool! Simple, inexpensive, and to the point without to much varibility in materials, which can bring in confusion.
Gfish
I like it. A simple, no nonsense approach to restoration.
Quote from: PacRat on January 07, 2018, 09:17:06 PM
x2 on the WD-40. I think it gets a bad reputation from people who don't understand its intended use. It's an excellent solvent. In fact I have an owner's manual from Shimano which recommends it for wiping down your reels after each fresh water rinse.
I'll agree with what Shimano says...because reels that get regularly fished are handled a lot...and the WD-40 doesn't "sit" long enough to varnish. It gets rinsed off...and reapplied. Sprayed down and put away for keeps is a different story. It behaves like one of those coatings they put on parts...a tacky preservative. 8)
Thanks Mo, very good post, great value, cheers Don.
Great post. Does not take a lot of money to clean stuff up and make it run like new and look almost new.
Dwight
That's a nice, informative post, Mo. I'm going to revisit my can of WD40... and the baking soda. That little green monofil must be one of the prettiest reels ever made.
Thanks for the tips. Great info. :)
Very nice transformation.
Tight lines, Brendan.
Good job, Mike --
You are right on all counts!
Best,
Fred
Good write up brother,,,,what cleaner did you use for the side plates? Bill
Mo that's a damn good job you did on that green monofil! I would've written it off as a ~6/10 at first but that thing is looking minty now!
Aloha,
Kyle
Great job MO - she sure looks purrrty now :)
Good job Mo, the reel came out great! Thanks for showing us your techniques.
Sal
Great post.
Lots of good information.
Beautiful reel BTW.
Scott
Great write up Mo, thanks for showing how simple cleaning neglected reels can be. I like the hand 'tumbler' technique with the posts.
Mike
Quote from: Bill B (Tarfu) on January 08, 2018, 02:32:20 AM
Good write up brother, what cleaner did you use for the side plates? Bill
I mentioned using toothbrushes on the side plates...but It looks like I didn't say what was on the toothbrush...glad ya asked Bill! The side plates get the same dish soap/baking soda mix, unless they are seriously faded. For faded plates you'll need to bump it up to rubbing compound so as to get down past the surface. I've heard many folks say shoe polish is an easy effective solution too.
Also I'd like to thank everyone for the nice comments, and I hope this thread helps those that are new to all this. 8)
Very helpful info & end product speaks for itself.
Frank
Great transformation and explanation, Mike. It's basically unrecognizable, now!
I will be trying that baking soda dishwashing detergent trick,
It has to be quicker than chrome polish.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 09, 2018, 06:30:08 AM
I will be trying that baking soda dishwashing detergent trick,
It has to be quicker than chrome polish.
Daron, I'm not sure if it's quicker, but it's definitely easier. It also has the added bonus of completely cleaning your hands after the previous degreasing steps. 8)
Thanks for this post, Mo. I need to try the baking soda and dish detergent. Usually I use Brasso for that, but your mixture looks good and cheaper.
I've used WD40 for cleaning too, but sometimes I run into grease that has turned to varnish that won't budge. I'm thinking of trying carborater cleaner for that. Someone with chemistry knowledge could probably tell me what is the right solvent to use. Something safe that doesn't require gloves, I hope.
P.S. My favorite eBay reels are the dirty ones. Seems like sometimes dirt protects against corrosion. Most people don't distinguish between dirty and corroded, so the reels tend to be cheaper ;D
Quote from: Decker on January 09, 2018, 04:06:08 PM
I've used WD40 for cleaning too, but sometimes I run into grease that has turned to varnish that won't budge. I'm thinking of trying carborater cleaner for that. Someone with chemistry knowledge could probably tell me what is the right solvent to use. Something safe that doesn't require gloves, I hope.
Hi Joe. Try letting the fresh squirt of WD-40 sit on the varnish awhile...it should loosen it then. You can even add a shake of the baking soda and use the toothbrush too. I've found carb cleaner doesn't really cut stiff varnish any better than the WD-40 unless it sits also. Forget brake parts cleaner...it evaporates fast...and is chemically vile...ha! 8)
Mo great job. I like your idea of using baking soda with dish detergent. Dawn has been suggested for grease removal. Now if someone could come up with a process of restoring parts with corrosion and pitting.
Quote from: George6308 on January 09, 2018, 06:01:21 PM
Now if someone could come up with a process of restoring parts with corrosion and pitting.
There a many out there, but it would cost you more for refinishing than a new part. I don't mean painting parts.
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 09, 2018, 06:42:53 PM
Quote from: George6308 on January 09, 2018, 06:01:21 PM
Now if someone could come up with a process of restoring parts with corrosion and pitting.
There a many out there, but it would cost you more for refinishing than a new part. I don't mean painting parts.
That's another "holy grail" that someone on this site needs to find. ;)
This powder-coating looks good: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3855.0 Sal, how did it hold up?
There was another posting recently about using a gun-blackening coat on metal reel parts... Here it is: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23515.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23515.0)
^OH... look three Philly guys posting in a row^ :o
Quote from: Decker on January 09, 2018, 07:57:50 PM
Quote from: Alto Mare on January 09, 2018, 06:42:53 PM
Quote from: George6308 on January 09, 2018, 06:01:21 PM
Now if someone could come up with a process of restoring parts with corrosion and pitting.
There a many out there, but it would cost you more for refinishing than a new part. I don't mean painting parts.
That's another "holy grail" that someone on this site needs to find. ;)
This powder-coating looks good: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3855.0 Sal, how did it hold up?
There was another posting recently about using a gun-blackening coat on metal reel parts... Here it is: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=23515.0
^OH... look three Philly guys posting in a row^ :o
Can't really answer that question, the reason being that Powder-coating needs to be done correctly. The rings that I had done by Jamie are still holding up and it is now over 6 years.
Jamie doesn't want anything to do with them, I'm guessing it wasn't worth it for him.
There is another member that just joined us, I invited him over after seeing some of his work and I believe he joined the group.
His name is Mike Lauer from Hi-Tide Reel Works...he does some nice custom work especially on alder spinfishers.
Best,
Sal
Hello , Thank you Sal for the add.
Quote from: Hi-Tide Reel Works on January 10, 2018, 05:29:49 AM
Hello , Thank you Sal for the add.
Hi Mike, welcome to the forum
We all love admiring custom reel work cause that's what keeps us into our forward thinking mode. I'll be looking forward to seeing your work.
Ted
Me too.
Welcome Mike. ;)
Hi Mike - welcome from the UK :)
Hello Mike , welcome from SW France :)
Welcome. Mike!
Howdy, Mike/Hi-Tide, from Minnesota.
Frank
Quote from: George6308 on January 09, 2018, 06:01:21 PM
Mo great job. I like your idea of using baking soda with dish detergent. Dawn has been suggested for grease removal. Now if someone could come up with a process of restoring parts with corrosion and pitting.
Corrosion
removal is a cinch. Unfortunately, corrosion
restoration is a toughie. Short of spending a fortune, about the best we can do is remove the corrosion and hope that half the chrome doesn't go with it. Yep...once again...I apply the ol' "roll the dice" mentality.
The photos below demonstrate corroded parts bathed in vinegar for 1/2 hour and then scrubbed with baking soda and rinsed with clean water. Photos 1 and 2 exibit complete failure, as the corrosion was so deeply set into the metal it had passed the point of no return. Photos 3 and 4 show how a lighter corrosion can be very successfully removed, leaving a great looking reel. 8)
Mike, that's an amazing rescue, not that I'd expect anything less of you....I really like the leadcore chart on that reel...GREAT idea I have to steal :)
Thanks, Mike!
Good tips, and great pics 📸 —
Best,
Fred
Great post and a beautiful reel
I, too, am not in the business of gear repair/restoration, and certainly no professional. I can't justify buying expensive tools, cleaners, etc., unless I can also use them outside of fishing gear work. So, I look for more common things I can use. Yes, it probably takes more time, and if I was doing this for a living, I could completely understand the "time is money" mantra. But, I can expend a little extra time and I feel get pretty good results, and I only have to please myself. Thanks again, Mike, for your valuable tips & insight.
Frank
Kind of along Happyhooker's train of thought, I don't see myself as cheap, more like frugal.. ;) I also hate wasting time running out to buy something I really don't need to spend money on.
Papertowels / toilet paper / Kleenex make cheap and readily available filters.
I filter vinegar and kerosene used to clean parts. They keep a green tint but work fine. Use a single layer of whatever. You can easily make 8 filters from a single Kleenex. I clean greasy gears and stuff with kerosene in an old tuna or catfood tin. I clean rings and chrome in the cut off bottom of a gallon vinegar jug. You can fit a Squidder size spool in half a water bottle, it saves wasted space in case you are low on the fluid needed.
There is funk in the kerosene jar, but that got in there before I figured out to filter it. Once I am down to about a tinful left I will filter that crud out too.
Rob
Quote from: JoseCuervo on October 19, 2018, 09:04:28 PM
I filter vinegar used to clean parts. They keep a green tint but work fine.
I have never filtered it, but I do reuse cleaning vinegar, it does take on a lovely green hue. ;D
This is a good post section that you started, Mike.
When needing to filter out some crud or junk from a container to get a few more uses from the batch -- these cheap and readily available coffee filters work great.
Best, Fred
After every reel I filter my lacquer thinner jar using 3 squares of toilet paper. TP is really cheap & does a great job. I use one square when I dump it into a different jar. I wipe out the original jar with the two squares and then fold it over so any film is in between the double layered square. Then I pour the lacquer thinner back into the original jar through the doubled square. It works great eliminating grime. The thinner has a little oily residue left to it but it will still clean another or two sets of reel parts. As a notation, I don't use a lot of lacquer thinner in my jar. I use a 3" glass jar with just enough thinner to cover all of the smaller parts and halfway up the bail & main shaft. I'll lose some thinner when I filter so I'll usually add a little more in the next batch if some is needed. After about 3 or 4 reels the thinner will be getting polluted with grease & oil so at that point I pitch it and start anew.
Here is another hot tip, an easy way to clean bearings for folks who don't have a solvent tank or ultrasonic cleaner. I heard Sal mention this stuff so I ordered a can...best move I ever made for cleaning bearings. A few quick squirts of Paslode and a spin is all it takes. 8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49024387038_c603b25415_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2hG7Nho)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48876841188_383894ba99_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ht5A3q)
Looks like good stuff Mo. Better n' Brake or Carb cleaner?
These dental brushes come in three sizes(thick showen) and are great for greasing screw holes, and getting up underneath stuff I 'm too lazy to disassemble. Also they are easy to clean off and last awhile.
So how do y'all dispose of the used solvents?
Quote from: nelz on August 13, 2020, 04:05:01 AM
So how do y'all dispose of the used solvents?
My harshest solvent is kerosene so I just filter it and reuse it, no disposal. I keep it in a Ball pint size jar w/ a lid [gently stored] or the original small jug.
If I needed to get rid of it, evaporation seems innocent enough to me. Don't use or buy more than you need (a quart or so at a time) and have a plan for storage and waste management in advance.
I use vinegar for chrome and that can go down the sink drain, so can Simple Green or the purple stuff.
You know, now that I look at it after a few months since the last use, it looks like a..., sample.
Various stuff.. Chrome brassed parts go in a plastic tub of vinegar, size dependent. Use the same thing to fresh water rinse the parts, so space to shake stuff is good, a handle on the vessel is great (one gallon water jug cut up). That cut off 5 gallon jug bottom will hold 16/0 rings and plates. Steel and brass take baths in a not shown cat food or tuna tin of kerosene.
See pic of a lonely fishermans' apartment counter. ::) That round tea bag thingy is great for soaking screws, bearings, springs, etc in either vinegar or kerosene.
The acid brush for grease application beats the toothbrushes which are better for scrubbing.
Growing up in a NY tenement we had kerosene heaters. I cannot stand the smell of the stuff so I won't use it. Dominick