the new penn international 50 VISX!
it's been a really long time since i've written a full tutorial. when i first started writing these years ago, i was one of the only ones. since them, lots of guys have stepped up and done some excellent work. these new penns, though, have just been released, even though they have been in development for the last 4 years. looking at this new reel, some things look the same, some things are radically different. the short answer is - very nice reel!!!!!! expensive, for sure, but it is not likely at this point that the reel will be released and you will start to see design problems. penn has taken their time, run all the numbers, crossed all the "t's," dotted all the "i's," and have hopefully come up with a winner. time, and the elements, will have the final say. but for now, it looks like they have themselves a excellent reel. you can buy a 50 visx, load it with 700 yards of jerry brown hollow, add a 25 yard fluoro carbon topshot, set the reel to 60 pounds at full, set the "strike" stopper at 45 pounds, and land anything that the west coast north america has to offer. the only thing i don't like about the reel is the handle grip, but i have that same complaint about the makaira, the accurate atd, and avet. that being said, let's have a look.
schematics will be available on line soon. until then, you'll have to put up with the paper copies.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_28_233661074.jpeg)
and here is our reel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_29_23376429.jpeg)
on the outside, everything is where it should be. simple and clean. note the adjustable strike indicator (key #2C). note also that this is a "pull" system like the makaira. the previous international models were a "push" system.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_33_23377752.jpeg)
the stand (key #30) is precision cast stainless steel, not anodized aluminum.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_35_23378396.jpeg)
the shift button (key #172) is anodized aluminum. it's a very crisp, clean mechanism.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_40_233792061.jpeg)
well, i've never opened one of these up before. you can only glean so much from the schematic. hey, it's just a fishing reel (well, actually it's paul's fishing reel). there are only so many different ways that you can put these together. what could go wrong? let's crack it open! we'll start with the preset knob (key #144) assembly. it just unscrews. see, how hard was that?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_44_23382676.jpeg)
now remove the drag lever assembly (key #21).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_43_233812048.jpeg)
note the orientation of the drag lever assembly (key #21) relative to the drag lever washer (key #4A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_47_233832322.jpeg)
take a moment to add a little oil to the strike button (key #112).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_53_233841886.jpeg)
remove the drag lever washer (key #4A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_38_57_23385745.jpeg)
remove the lever click pin (key #161A) and the spring (key #4). set them aside in a safe place. these get lost easily!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_17_233862277.jpeg)
there are four side plate screws (key #39B). you'll need a #10 torx bit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_18_233882228.jpeg)
each screw comes with a nylon collar to help prevent corrosion. i'm going to toss these collars and grease the screws. also grab the harness lug (key #54) and scrub it with a lightly greased toothbrush, then set it aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_20_233901903.jpeg)
ok, let's survey the damage. we have a preset knob assembly, and drag lever assembly, a drag lever washer, a pin and spring, a harness lug and four screws. see? easy!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_21_23391657.jpeg)
we also have the rest of the reel apart and in three pieces, the left side plate and frame assembly, the spool assembly and the right side plate assembly. this is where the work starts!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_22_23392801.jpeg)
ok, the frame is first.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_23_233912363.jpeg)
guys, it's dry as a bone on the inside. a light spray of corrosion xd would be nice. i'll go after it with a lightly greased toothbrush later.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_24_23395552.jpeg)
there are a pair of gear cover screws (key #39) that require a #10 torx bit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_24_233962276.jpeg)
both the gear cover (key #1D) and the frame extension (key #183A) come off as a unit. separate all the pieces, grease the screws and scrub the other parts with a greasy toothbrush.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_25_233971431.jpeg)
there are four left side plate frame screws (key #39B). again, you will need a #10 torx.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_26_23398171.jpeg)
i'm going to grease the screws and toss the nylon collars, then scrub the stainless steel harness lug (key #54) with greasy toothbrush.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_26_233991518.jpeg)
let's pull the stand (key #30). there are four stand screws (key #24SS).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_27_23400744.jpeg)
the teflon stand gasket (key #264) and the grease you see here will likely not prevent corrosion for very long.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_28_23397346.jpeg)
i'm going to bag the stand gasket and the nylon collars, then scrub everything to spread a super thin coat of grease all through the left side plate and frame. if you miss a spot, you'll find it in a year when salt eats through the anodizing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_30_234031027.jpeg)
install the four greased stand screws (key #24SS) to secure the stand (key #30). make 'em tight, check them every fishing trip! remember, these are now greased. it is always possible that they could back out, so use good judgement. make them tight enough so that they will not back out, yet not so tight that you strip the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_30_234042395.jpeg)
four left side plate screws (key #39B) to secure the left side plate (key #27) and the harness lug (key #54).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_31_234041016.jpeg)
you see a light coat of grease all through the inside. it could stand to be even a little thinner. done with the left side plate and frame. ok, the frame was pretty easy. if you are going to do anything, at least to this. you don't even need to remove the preset knob. just pull the right side frame screws (key #39B), remove the right side plate and spool as a unit, take the left side plate and frame apart, grease everything and put it back together. this will go a long way towards protecting the frame from corrosion.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_32_234061627.jpeg)
Just like riding a bicycle ah boss?... but you're not done ;D.
Thanks for always making it a little easier for most of us.
Nice reel!
Sal
now for the spool assembly (key #29). here's the right side.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_32_234071471.jpeg)
here's the left side.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_55_23408625.jpeg)
back out all of the spool ratchet screws (key #123).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_54_23408796.jpeg)
grease all of the spool ratchet screws (key #123) and scrub the click ratchet ring (key #81) with a tooth brush.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_55_234101408.jpeg)
remove the drag cover (key #156) and the outer drive plate assembly (key #117). rubber gaskets allow you to "snap" them apart and "snap" them back together.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_56_234111394.jpeg)
there is a drag plate bearing (key #20) that measures 8x16x5mm. it will probably be stuck inside the outer drive plate. leave it there for now. note also that the drag washer surface is greased. it might be hard to tell from the photo, but it's easy to tell when you are holding it under a light, that the drag washer material is not greased evenly. we'll have to fix that.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_57_23412443.jpeg)
remove the drag plate bearing (key #20) and let's pack it with yamaha marine grease and then put it back. a bearing packer makes the job much easier. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=870.0
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_57_234131670.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_58_23414727.jpeg)
now for the outer drag plate. let's slather on a whole bunch of cal's drag grease, make sure you get all the creases, and then clean off the excess.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_39_59_234151733.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_40_00_234161131.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_40_00_234082447.jpeg)
"snap" the outer drag plate (key #117) back into the drag cover (key #156) and set it aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_41_38_234181498.jpeg)
remove the drag separating wave spring (key #41A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_41_56_23418119.jpeg)
remove the metal drag washer (key #7A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_41_58_234202338.jpeg)
remove the drive plate retaining spring (key #41B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_41_59_234212256.jpeg)
remove the inner drive plate assembly (key #117A). we'll have to regrease this one as well.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_00_2341978.jpeg)
here's the drag bearing (key #26N) that supports the inner drag plate assembly. it measures 8x22x7. since it doesn't affect freespool, let's pack it with grease. also, there was a shim washer (key #154AA or #154B) behind the drag bearing. this is a pretty slick feature. i'm betting that shim washer 005 #154AA is 0.005 (5 thousandths) inches thick and that shim washer 010 is 0.010 (ten thousandths) inches thick! i think it's a very nice way to shim the inner drag pressure plate in the spool assembly and adjust the drag range. or it could be something else. i'll have to ask later!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_01_234232316.jpeg)
line everything up in order before we get too far. remember, we've never opened up one of these reels before!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_01_234241308.jpeg)
remove the spool spacer (key #13B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_02_234241171.jpeg)
remove the right spool bearing (key #20L). it measures 8x16x5mm and this is a bearing that affects freespool!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_03_234261438.jpeg)
we're going to take a moment to take a look inside this spool bearing. if you need a primer on bearings, take a look here, http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_04_234272206.jpeg)
we're going to open up the spool bearing (key #20L), clean it out with carburetor cleaner, lube it with TSI 321 and leave it open. TSI 321 is good stuff. if you don't have some, get some. other reel manufacturers now use it. i would like to see penn doing the same.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_05_234281121.jpeg)
remove the spool spacer tube (key #13A) and line everything up.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_06_23429672.jpeg)
now for the left side of the spool. there are three screws (key #46A) holding the left spool bearing retainer (key #173). back the screws out and grease them.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_06_23430531.jpeg)
remove the spool shaft/spindle assembly (key #71) and all the other parts as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_08_234311306.jpeg)
from left to right we have a left side spool spring (key #41), a left spool bearing (key #20L) that measures 8x16x5, another spool spacer (key #13B), a spool bearing retainer (key #173), two belleville spring washers (key #18), three screws (key #46A) and a spindle assembly (key #71).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_08_234321505.jpeg)
Interesting, that they chose to go with only 2 Bellevilles in this reel. All previous 50 class Internationals had 4. Guess the cam ramp dictates the steeper tail end of the drag curve. Those washers look to be as thick as the old 130 VSX washers though.
I am enjoying your write-up boss. Been waiting for this one for awhile.
:)
John
remove the shields from the left spool bearing (key #20L), clean it out with carburetor cleaner, lube it with TSI 321 and leave it open. you know the drill!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_09_23433777.jpeg)
we are now down to the bare spool (key #29).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_10_234341681.jpeg)
back to our old toothbrush. scrub it good and leave a light coat of grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_10_23435467.jpeg)
we'll be loading with reel with 700 yards of 130 pound jerry brown hollow core braid, so let's put some flex wrap around arbor. when i load braid, i always start with a lightly greased spool, then a double layer of flex wrap. line up all the parts so we don't miss something.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_11_234361073.jpeg)
first the left side spindle assembly - the spindle (key #71), the belleville spring washers (key #18) in a "( )" orientation, the spool bearing retainer (key #173), the left spool bearing (key #20L), and the left side spool spring (key #41). install this assembly into the left side of the spool (key #29) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_12_234371311.jpeg)
install the three screws (key #46A) and tighten them snugly. remember, these are now greased. it is always possible that they could back out, so use good judgement. make them tight enough so that they will not back out, yet not so tight that you strip the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_12_23438407.jpeg)
install the spool spacer tube (key #13A), the spool bearing (key #20L), the spool spacer (key #13B), the spool shim 005 or 010 (key #154AA or 154B) as required, and the inner drive plate bearing (key #26N).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_13_234391249.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_14_234402496.jpeg)
install the inner drag plate (key #117A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_42_234411998.jpeg)
install the drive separating wave spring (key #41A) and the drive plate retaining spring (key #41B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_41_234411640.jpeg)
install the outer drive plate support bearing (key #20), the outer drive plate (key #117) and the drag cover (key #156) as a unit. remember, this unit has been "snapped" together.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_43_234431471.jpeg)
you may have to shimmy the outer drive plate around until it "mates" with the inner plate. you will know you have it right when the drag cover properly seats.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_45_234442322.jpeg)
install the click ratchet ring (key #81) and all six screws (key #123). ok, the spool is done! set it aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_45_23445294.jpeg)
Really nice tutorial, Alan —
Thanks!
How do you easily get more than 4 photos in a tutorial like this?
I would like to do some tutorials on reels that we may be missing on our site — particularly spinners like DAM's, Mitchell's, and other vintage guys.
Best,
Fred
now for the serious stuff! the right side plate assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_47_234472223.jpeg)
take a quick look. main gears, pinion gears, an anti-reverse ratchet, and a pair of ambassadeur-style dogs. this is how the reel cranks silently.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_48_23448697.jpeg)
we're going to start here.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_49_23449218.jpeg)
there are three screws (key #46A) to remove.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_50_234501629.jpeg)
remove the dog retaining plate (key #3C).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_50_234511426.jpeg)
there are two well greased "ambassadeur-style" dogs (key #15). you can't tell unless you look closely, but they are spring loaded.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_52_23452942.jpeg)
remove the anti-reverse ratchet (key #98), the two dogs (key #15), and the two dog/click springs (key #14) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_52_234532481.jpeg)
remove the low speed pinion gear (key #13LS) and the high speed pinion gear (key #13HS) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_42_53_234542265.jpeg)
now to remove the shifter assembly. the shift button (key #172) is held in place by the shift button retaining ring (key #110C). this ring is has right hand threads and just unscrews in the normal way. the ring is anodized aluminum. a wrench is provided but it will leave tool marks on ring. likewise, if you muscle the ring off with channel locks, you will damage the knurling.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_56_55_234552278.jpeg)
but look carefully. with the button (key #172) up in the "high gear" position, the shift latch (key #172B) is close to the retaining rig (key #110C) leaving very little in between.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_56_57_23457775.jpeg)
with the shift button "down" in the "low gear" position, there is more of a gap.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_56_56_234561323.jpeg)
there is actually enough room to get the strap from a strap wrench ($10 at amazon.com) in between.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_56_58_234582208.jpeg)
piece of cake! remove the shift button retainer ring (key #110C).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_56_58_234591046.jpeg)
remove the shift button (key #172).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_56_59_234602238.jpeg)
remove the pair of shift base screws (key #110D).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_00_23461114.jpeg)
remove the shift button body (key #110B)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_01_2346213.jpeg)
grease the shift base screws (key #110D) and set them aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_27_234632058.jpeg)
remove the shift latch (key #172B) and the shifter spring (key #18C) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_28_23464305.jpeg)
remove the shift button base (key #110A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_29_23465954.jpeg)
you'll need a half inch wrench to remove the handle screw (key #23).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_30_234661431.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_31_23467452.jpeg)
off comes the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_31_234681652.jpeg)
remove the gear stud shield (key #50).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_32_23469870.jpeg)
remove the retaining ring (key #195).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_33_23470106.jpeg)
the main gear assembly drops right out.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_34_23471382.jpeg)
we're going to clean this up a little.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_35_23472521.jpeg)
remove the ball bearing (key #55). this bearing measures 0.500x1.125x0.3125. the bearing designation is SR8-ZZ#1 and typically retails for $20. the entire reason for removing the handle and main gear assembly is to get access to this bearing. it is always the first thing to fail.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_57_38_23473513.jpeg)
removing the "seals" of the bearing takes only a small blade. on inspection, one side is lightly packed with grease, the other side is nearly dry.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_04_234632266.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_03_23474903.jpeg)
salt water intrusion and the extreme pressures that these bearings are under will cause them to rapidly fail. packing them 100% with grease may delay bearing failure, but the down side is that the reel will feel more difficult to "crank." correct, when you turn the handle you will feel more resistance because of the grease that is filling the bearing. well, we're going to pack it with grease anyway.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_05_23476780.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_06_234732011.jpeg)
replace the seals and install the bearing (key #55) back into the right side plate (key #1).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_06_234782243.jpeg)
while we're at it, let's take a look at the gears. the high speed main gear (key #5HS) is a little over 2 inches in diameter, but it's half way between 5/32nds and 11/64ths of an inch thick.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_07_234741204.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_08_234801378.jpeg)
the low speed main gear (key #5LS) is an inch an a half in diameter but again between 5/32nds and 11/64ths of an inch thick.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_08_23481300.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_09_234821205.jpeg)
ok, i'm going to give penn a pass on this one. the gears look awfully thin to me. i would have preferred that they be twice as thick as this, but i'm not an engineer. someone had to have run the numbers, plus these gears would have had to have been tested to destruction. that means that these gears have to be able to stand up to a 250 pound yellowfin at 45 to 60 pounds of drag. there is no changing them at this point. so, in they go!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_10_234811333.jpeg)
install the retaining ring (key #195).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_10_234841510.jpeg)
install the handle assembly (key #24) and the handle screw (key #23).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_34_23484754.jpeg)
install the shift button base (key #110A), the shifter spring (key #18C) and the shift latch (key #172B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_35_234871424.jpeg)
install the shift button body (key #110B) and shift base screws (key #110D).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_37_23490830.jpeg)
install the shift button (key #1720) and the shift button retaining ring (key #110C).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_38_234871662.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_39_234891485.jpeg)
now run it through ten cycles to make sure that the shifter mechanism functions properly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_40_23494536.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_39_234931775.jpeg)
annnnndddd that's why he's the Boss.....
Interesting design changes. Much better shift mechanism. It looks like Penn has been studying other manufacturers.
Thanks Alan
ok, guys, almost done!!!!!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_58_41_23495537.jpeg)
install the low speed pinion gear (key #13LS) and the high speed pinion gear (key #13HS) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_16_234971281.jpeg)
add a little grease to the dog pins (key #158).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_13_23485459.jpeg)
install the anti-reverse ratched (key #98), the dogs (key #15) and the dog springs (key #14) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_17_23496693.jpeg)
install the dog retaining plate (key #3) and the screws (key #46A) and we're done on the inside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_18_234991642.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_18_23474311.jpeg)
we just need to corrosion-proof this reel a little more. remove the quadrant screws (key #39) with a #10 torx bit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_19_23501874.jpeg)
remove the quadrant ring (key #2) and the quadrant spacer (key #2A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_4_59_21_235022396.jpeg)
scrub everything with that old toothbrush and reinstall the quadrant assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_12_235031796.jpeg)
now back to the frame.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_14_235051270.jpeg)
install the spool assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_15_23506118.jpeg)
it's going to take a little coaxing, but shimmy the right side plate assembly onto the spool and frame. it's alot easier said than done. you have to line everything up just right.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_35_235072192.jpeg)
install four right side plate screws (key #39B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_36_23507918.jpeg)
install the lever click pin (key #161A) and spring (key #14).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_36_23509636.jpeg)
install the drag lever washer (key #4A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_38_235101735.jpeg)
line up the pin hole and install the drag lever assembly (key #21), then push the drag to the "free" position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_40_23512683.jpeg)
align the cam follower (key #141) with the drag cam (key #19) so that the two mate properly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_40_235131793.jpeg)
screw in the preset knob (key #144).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_41_235141550.jpeg)
here is your adjustable strike indicator (key #2C). we'll fiddle with this one we get some line on the reel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_22_02_18_5_01_42_235151940.jpeg)
gentlemen, we're done. well, we're done with the service portion of the reel. now for a few comments. first, the gears. they're skinny. if they were going to be a problem, they should have figured it out by now. after all, this reel has been in testing for 4 years. the anti-reverse system. it's a hybrid between a leaf spring ambassadeur-style dog and a standard spring loaded dog. as long as it's quiet and as long as the dogs don't fail, we're good. i don't see a problem. the shifter is a very nice design. the stainless steel lugs and reel stand are a nice touch. i don't like the handle grip at all. the rest of the reel is pretty standard. i think they've got a winner.
ok, now we get to rig it. i have a hot rodded line winder.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_19_02_18_1_37_13_233542285.jpeg)
the bulk spool holder has greased carbon fiber drag washers in it and can be set as high as 35 pounds. yup, that's right. i can wind braid on to a reel with 35 pounds. to determine what amount of pressure i'm going to use, i simply figure out how much drag the reel will be set for, then tighten the drag settings on the bulk spool holder until i get 50 to 75% of that drag range.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_19_02_18_1_35_54_233511609.jpeg)
the original motor was the size of a coke can. a buddy pulled out the old motor, hacked open the box and installed a 1/3rd horse power motor. that's what you see in blue. i can crank a penn 50 in low gear against 35 pounds of pressure with ease!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_19_02_18_1_36_21_233521880.jpeg)
now, for our reel, we are going to load it with 130 pound jerry brown hollow. we want to set this to 45 pounds of drag at strike and 60 pounds at full. that means that the tension on the bulk line holder has to set to 30 to 35 pounds. no problem.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_18_23813380.jpeg)
we will start by loading 100 yards of the 130 pound JB hollow "decade" which changes color every 10 yards.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_18_23812833.jpeg)
then we're going to do an end-to-end splice with 2 feet on either end of the splice and our new color will be yellow for 100 yards. then 100 yards of green, then 100 yards of white, then green, then white, then green for 700 yards total. and finally a 25 yard topshot of 130 pound fluoro.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_19_238141073.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_20_23815110.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_21_238161927.jpeg)
now to set the drag. according to penn, the reel is good to 60 pounds of drag, so this reel was set to 60 pounds at full. once that was done, i check the lower settings. penn has done a nice job of designing their drag cam. with 60 pounds at full, their number 1 setting was 20 pounds, their number 2 setting was 30 pounds, number 3 was 40 pounds, and number 4 was 50 pounds. and just to complete the story, if you set the drag to 50 pounds at full for a 100 pound topshot, the number 1 setting is 10 pounds, number 2 is 20 pounds, number 3 is 30 pounds and number 4 is 40 pounds. it doesn't get any easier than this. this, however, is a 130 pound reel, so it's 60 pounds at full.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_17_238111686.jpeg)
then i adjusted the strike stop so that the lever would stop at 45 pounds.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/1_06_03_18_6_38_16_23810200.jpeg)
and this, gentlemen, is how i rig a 130 pound class reel! my compliments to penn on a job well done! alan
My compliments to you Alan for a job very well done :)
Thanks for another job well done. Great tutorial, many many detailed pictures, This is why you are the Boss! Good luck fishing the new reel too! Best wishes with your health. You seem to have a passion for this stuff. Thanks for sharing your time and experience and knowledge with us. We are greatfull. gst. :D :D
love the hybrid leaf spring dogs
"the anti-reverse system. it's a hybrid between a leaf spring ambassadeur-style dog and a standard spring loaded dog. as long as it's quiet and as long as the dogs don't fail, we're good. i don't see a problem. "
wondering how much time will take to see this on another manufacturers.
Hey Alan PM me your address, I want to send you an Alan Tani wrench for a great tutorial. :D Dominick
Great tutorial, answered lots of questions I had about this reel.
Slightly disappointed to see a very very conventional design internally; when other manufacturers are doing things like thrust bearings to remove the pinion and left spool bearing side-load issues. But then again if it does the job, all good; 4 years of field testing should have told Penn if the pinion was going to fail prematurely.
I'm interested in the anti-reverse setup; do the "ears" on the dogs push the dogs back against the springs when the handle is turned forwards, rather than pulling them onto the ratchet when the handle goes backwards? If so that's a very clever design, if the "ears" fail then you will just get a ticking reel rather than losing your anti-reverse.
Also somewhat intrigued by the mixture of metric and imperial sized bearings in the reel.
Last but not least, 60lb of drag, I hope the rod (and angler) are tethered to the boat!
Quote from: boon on March 08, 2018, 12:23:53 AM
Slightly disappointed to see a very very conventional design internally; when other manufacturers are doing things like thrust bearings to remove the pinion and left spool bearing side-load issues. But then again if it does the job, all good; 4 years of field testing should have told Penn if the pinion was going to fail prematurely.
I agree. I'm sure the reel is just great, and looks fantastic. Nothing wrong there. But I'm a litte disappointed by the apparent lack of imagination. Not just here, but among other reel companies* as well. Four years of research, only to say, "Hey! Let's do the same thing everyone else does! Brilliant!" clapclapclap
Idunno. On the other hand, it can also be interpreted as testament to the excellence of Shimano's original design in ≈1987.
Thanks for the great tutorial and photo exposé!
*i guess it applies to cars and guns and whatever all else as well.
Quote from: Dominick on March 07, 2018, 07:22:58 PM
Hey Alan PM me your address, I want to send you an Alan Tani wrench for a great tutorial. :D Dominick
now thats funny ;D ;D
nice job on this and insight as well.
I just saw this one.
Very Impressive Tutorial Alan.
Nobody does it better. ;)
I have to agree with you about those gears though.
These are a set out of an Everol.
Very Beefy.
Alan, I just bought a 20 VISX. I was going to send you a message on how to set the drag. You kind of answered this with this tutorial on the 50. My question was in regards to the adjustable strike setting piece. With my 20 I plan on fishing 100 lb on it. At what drag setting do I set this reel at full and what setting at strike? Also, should I move that adjustable piece or just leave it at the #4 position? Thanks.
it may need new bellevilles. i had to switch out one. i'm taking a look at another in a bit to see if it is still an issue. ping me in a month and we'll see.
Thanks Alan.
Alan: Very nice tutorial of that Penn. A customer was here to pickup three reels I had serviced and said what was the site I was on. I told him Alan Tani reel Repair, That is the guy I learned from.
Joe
I got my hands on a 80 VISW about a year before they were released in Australia. I found with the reel that I pre-serviced, a much better level pre-prepping from the box. The internal surfaces were given a good coating of Penn Blue, and most of the bearings (except spool) were also properly packed. There were a few screws that were dry, but generally I felt the factory prepping was pretty good.
The 80 VI (and I assume the 130) also had a removable drag cam housing from the right plate, which I thought was an excellent feature, however if the anodising on this new series is better than the VS line, could be a little unnecessary. From my experiences with many VS reels over the years, the cam recesses were a reel problem for corrosion, the anodising was not up to task for the rudimentary pre-prepping from the box these reels got, IMO. One wonders if there will be much of a market for 80 & 130 sized reels in the future, now that the IGFA has approved the braid backing and mono-topshot spool set-ups for record claims, with a few top-shot length requirements. This brings a 50 sized reel into the mix for fishing 130lb test to its limits with the drag capabilities of the modern reels out of the box. I guess time will tell, but I see the "big reel" market becoming greatly diminished over time.
I must admit, I was very disappointed to see that Penn did not go with axial, or even angular contact bearings as standard in the end plates. I think they had a real opportunity to "lead the field" by doing this. I do understand that this could have been a cost and a "replacement availability" issue, but as others have said, it showed a lack of taking a lack of real development to fix the one big issue with lever drags, in the modern context of big drags and small reels. The cranking shaft solution with the bearings, has just created further maintenance issues IMO. Have seen enough A/R and standard bearing failures in this area (AVET's) to know that this is not a great idea. Surprised reel manufacturers do not fit a lip seal on the crank shafts to try and provide an extra level of protection for these bearings. The plastic bearing seal rings just don't cut it.
Having said all that, I would still have one, particularly if the anodising is more robust than the previous line. Throw away those plastic screw collars!! I actually thought they were a nice touch, pre-greased and all! Going to risk a "forum slap" and agree to disagree with the boss on this one! :D
Alan - thanks for the tutorial. I just bought three 50VISXs, with three or four more on the way to gear up for the NJ midshore/inshore/canyons Tuna bite. I haven't opened them up yet but I have confidence that your tutorial will steer me clear of any screw ups. Since writing the tutorial, have you had occasion to work on these after they've been fished and glean any insight into maintenance? I want to develop a maintenance routine and log for the reels moving forward.
Would you suggest stripping the Penn blue from the frame etc. and replacing with Cal's after the first year of service? Would you say replacing the spool bearings every year would be advisable as preventative maintenance? Are there any other parts or pieces that are known to fail and it would be wise to have on hand as part of a maintenance supply kit so that I can get a reel back up and running quickly in-season rather than waiting on parts shipment?
Thanks :d
i don't recommend stripping off the old grease. just wipe off the excess, then go in with an old toothbrush and scrub to leave a light coat of grease everywhere. the cam definitely has to be ground down. a 3 to 3.5 degree grind should do the trick.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=35043.0
I have one sort of niggle with the VI series. These are by and large big game series reels designed to catch the fish of a lifetime. Why armed they manufactured with smooth sides spools to cause as little friction as possible to line being ripped off under heavy drag ( like previous penn internationals, avet trex and ex , Tiagras and Okuma Makairas. What I am saying is why have 3 line capacity grooves machined onto the sides of the spool, is it not possible that line (mono or thin braid) could get wedged in there and damaged when ripped off under heavy drag. Now I must admit many manufacturers reels have line capacity rings and I have never heard of any one having a problem with them, I cant even get my head arround the mechanics of how the line comes off and the potential for damage. But the line capacity rings on my set of Fathoms look sharp edged enough for me to sell them. Any body got any thoughts on this ( or is it just me ) how deep and sharp edged are the line capacity rings on the VI reels ?
haven't ever seen it as a problem. :-\
Hi Alan what are your latest thoughts on the gear thickness in these reels, I find the unique 70 size at 74 ounces hard to resist (for big malin and giant bluefin stand up)
Regards Gary