Gents
Good day...
RE: Breakaway/Coaster or Non-Traditional Reel Seat
I did a cursory search and nothing came up. I am kicking around the idea of starting to build a Rod.
As an FYI - I just received a couple of packs of interesting 'slip-over' Guides (from China - ok, let the beatings begin.. ;) ). Interesting concept, cheap, and for me, worth a look.
Anyway, I am kicking around not installing a Reel Seat but using Reel Clamps that are available for many Reel Models to affix the Reel. Might have to 'pin' the Reel Seat to a short slot in the Blank to further locate the Reel and still allow some fore/aft adjustment. I have seen a few cheapo Blanks on eBay that i might use as test subjects..
I would like your thoughts on this method of going 'Seatless'.
Thanks
Steve
ARGHHHH
started to do other searches and up comes 'Cork Puppy'.. this might be my answer..
https://www.thelongfin.com/cork-puppy-reel-clamp.html
(https://i.imgur.com/df6mwaC.png)
S
Hi sundancer, Try searching 'Deck Hand' or 'Deckhand' rods as well. I don't use them but someone here will know the pros and cons. Here's a link to a thread by jurelometer about converting a travel rod to deckhand style http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15390.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15390.0)
Mike
cork puppy available from Charkbait and also comes with trigger grip option. suggest you wrap some cork tape or cord / epoxy on blank to clamp to; wrap maybe a 9" section which will allow you to position clamp as you wish and still serve as grip on both sides of the reel.
John
Gents
perfect - thanks for the suggestions..
John..
That is exactly my intent.. lololol now that i found Cork Puppy..
S
heat shrink plain or over cord / cork is option also. i think i have some cork tape if you need. PM your address if you want some.
John
Cork Puppies come in three different sizes, depending on the diameter of the grip where you want to seat the reel. I have always recommended that people take their rods and reels into the tackle shop (difficult if not local) and get the correct size Cork Puppy to fit.
There are other newer types of clamping systems, usually produced by reel manufacturers (such as Accurate Pit Bull and Diawa) to accommodate their reels after a demand has built up. And they are usually higher priced but better at anchoring their reels.
The Cork Puppies use just the two screws and allow the owner to swap rods and reels easily whereas some of the newer systems can easily require four or more screws to change rods and reels. I also keep an assortment of nylon spacers since the Cork Puppy wraps part way around the rod grips, so I can switch out the reels as I want.
Do not pin the blank. You'll ruin it.
Cork puppy or just lash the reel in place. Lashing provides a more comfortable grip.
-steve
UPDATE
got 4 and still waiting on another group of 4 light duty 'plate-type' reel seats.. 4 have a rubber cushion on the bottom of the plate.
will be doing a split butt.
these will be for Penn 9's... Couple of the Reels will be loaded with 20# Braid. they will be for Boat fishing, dragging bait, light jigging... nothing technical...
now to the question.........
when looking at Rod Blanks, they have Casting and Spinning as different categories. is there a functional difference in a Casting v Spinning on a Blank? seems once the Blank is splined, the location dictates the usage - Casting v Spinning.
I am looking to go as cheap as possible for my first couple of attempts with building a Rod
thanks
I love deckhand Ross. The advantages are you don't deal with a reel seat and you get to decide where the reel goes depending on your particular body build and intended use. I can't really think of any disadvantages. Newell made a few deckhand stands for Penns that take 4 bolts. I have 1 and would like a lot more.
Quote from: sundancer on September 27, 2018, 04:55:55 PM
UPDATE
now to the question.........
when looking at Rod Blanks, they have Casting and Spinning as different categories. is there a functional difference in a Casting v Spinning on a Blank? seems once the Blank is splined, the location dictates the usage - Casting v Spinning.
I am looking to go as cheap as possible for my first couple of attempts with building a Rod
thanks
Basically, conventional casting reels sit above the rod, and the guides would be wrapped on the opposite side of the spline. Guides tend to be smaller. Spinning reels hang below the rod, so guides would be wrapped along the spline. Guides tend to start out larger, before funnelling down in size. Jigging methods can be used with rods that have guides above or below the rod.
To further muck up the basic differences, there are closed face spin cast reels, ala basic Zebco 33, that sits above. There are also high priced jigging reels (conventional design), that hang below the rod. And there are spiral wrapped (or 'acid' wrap) guides that start out opposite the spline, but rotate around the blank until the guides align with the spline. The spiral wrap allows the use of conventional reels, but remove torque (trying to twist the reel over) from the forces when fighting a large fish.
Better to figure out what you want to use the rod for, what type of reel you will use, and then what purpose/method you will use. Length of blank, weights of line, and action would be the initial considerations. Ie, 8', 20-40#, extra fast (for casting 3/4 to 2 ounce top water/mid column jigs).
Check out from a library/buy a book on rod building, for the basics.
And yes, a Cork Puppy on a 'deckhand style' rod would work just fine. Always consider wrapping extra material in the immediate area where the reel will sit, to protect the blank from deep damage from heavy flexing (fish or snag).
Good luck!
Ross, I have built dozens of rods, and except where I was after a big-game rod for large conventional reels, cannot tell a difference between spinning and casting blanks. As you say, it's about splining, and now we are wrapping helical orientation on casting rods (spiral or acid wrap), so in essence (if it makes a difference) you would get a spinning blank to wrap an acid wrap on...
IF it actually makes a difference, when applied to the appropriate application in terms of action / lure wt / line wt, is for someone that gets to use them a whole more than I, unfortunately. If I'm not catching fish, that's probably reason #44 on the list...
John
I guess John understood my point
before a Blank is splined, it isn't categorized as a Casting/Conventional or a Spinning.. It is only the placement of the Guides/Seat that defines it.
Thoughts??
I just want to understand the options so i don't 'build myself into a wall'...
steve
Jim beat me on trigger....same view.
One thing you may consider is to get a rod from flea mkt / yard sale / pawn shop and fully strip it, then do you as you wish and transpose you learning experience to a new blank later....frequently you can get decent enough stuff for pennies on the dollar especially if missing a guide or two- point that out in your negotiation. Even if you find a cheap enough blank in catelogs that you would spend the effort on, your shipping cost alone will likely exceed what you could find a used practice stick for- there are a zillion rods out there in re-purpose land that are appropriate for a Penn 9 (one of my favorites). Also don't be afraid of someone's 7' broken off to 6'3"- that may be just the action you are now looking for.
I thought of stripping down an old Rod..
the effort/mess of peeling off the Seat just seems more than the savings.. Mudhole has Blanks that ship for <$35 in the weight/action that I would use if it turns out nice..
S
35 bucks beats your time to strip and paint an old one, if it just to learn with. go for it
I have seen heavy spinning blanks used as lighter conventionals and light spinners used for baitcasters. The listing of the blank is what the manufacturer thinks you should use it for, not what you want it for.
No one is better at explaining this than Alan. Once you see his picture and how it all should work you immediately understand that the last thing you should consider is line rating and intended use.
Ron
There have been times when rod manufacturers used the same blank to make spinning and casting rods. Also, fly rods and spinning rods from the same blank although the tip and butt may have been trimmed differently. The manufacturers are not going to admit it, but when the materials, production techniques, inside and outside taper are the same, it is the same blank.
There are advantages to stripping down an old rod versus buying a new blank. If you look for old rods at the local flea market you get to waggle, bend and fondle it first. Maybe even cast it first. A beat up old rod can hide a really nice blank inside. Cut off the guides, scrape off the finish, use a rotary tool with cutting disc to remove the seat, then lightly sand the whole thing.
All blanks are not created equal. This has never been more true than right now. A cheap blank from ebay is going to be just that and you will not get the performance and longevity of a quality name brand blank.
Don't bother with the slip-up guides. They can only work if the guides are manufactured for a very specific blank and build. Guide placement is important and the slip-on guides will not end up in the right places.
-steve
Steve
That's why i asked. With all the cross Models and Parts for Penn Reels alone, I thought there might be the same on Rod Blanks..
I will go thru my 'stuff' and see if there is something worth using. I also have one coming from eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rod-Building-Wrapping-2pc-66-rod-blank-fishing-Matte-Grey-color/223122688176?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(https://i.imgur.com/4t1roIS.png)
that might work.. Most of my 'saved' stuff are short 2 piece boat rods with the wooden handle. not really the stuff to convert.
I will let you know how it goes.
Steve
Quote from: sundancer on September 27, 2018, 04:55:55 PM
UPDATE
got 4 and still waiting on another group of 4 light duty 'plate-type' reel seats.. 4 have a rubber cushion on the bottom of the plate.
will be doing a split butt.
these will be for Penn 9's... Couple of the Reels will be loaded with 20# Braid. they will be for Boat fishing, dragging bait, light jigging... nothing technical...
now to the question.........
when looking at Rod Blanks, they have Casting and Spinning as different categories. is there a functional difference in a Casting v Spinning on a Blank? seems once the Blank is splined, the location dictates the usage - Casting v Spinning.
I am looking to go as cheap as possible for my first couple of attempts with building a Rod
thanks
F.Y.I.
Building on the spine or "spline" has no effect on the performance of any blank.
The deadlift capacity will always be highest on the straightest axis of the blank.
UPDATE and open to suggestions
Like i have mentioned, I have a virgin Blank, little less than 3/8" diameter at the Butt and a Plate-type Seat (too wide for the Blank) that i plan to use.
My plan is to use a short length of ~1/2" PCV to build up the area where I intend to attach the Seat. Then do the Split Grip arrangement.
Might even drill the Penn 9 Foot to accept a Reel Clamp.
How bad is this plan? This is my first attempt at building a Rod.
As always, thanks
Steve
UPDATE II
2 models of the Reel Seat complete with one better than the other but neither real pretty.
all components stacked on the Rod for viewing.
Butt Cap glued on.
QUESTION
is there a formal dimension on the distance between the Butt Cap and the Rear Grip, or 'whatever works..'?
Thanks
Steve
Another Update
Have put together a few Rods, trying different options on Seats and Epoxy's along the way...
Last night I tried U-40 Permagloss. Seems to work well but 'whoaaaa boy' the fumes from the solvent. I think I will be going back to the 15-minute, 2 part Epoxy from the local Hobby Store...
Wife mentioned she was getting high from the fumes.. LOLOL
Anyway - Bailed on the PVC idea and have adopted and like wrapping the Butt with Paracord twice for thickness. I then wrap the Plate-type Reel Seat on top. Also using Fly Rod-type Guides, 2 Striper Guides, lots of Snake Guides, then the Tip Top. This seems to work well for the Penn 9's, 27's that will be attached..
I am not concerned about the Guides grooving as I don't do the kind of fishing where the Line runs in and out alot...
Steve