So I dug out old reels I never junked..I'm sure no one serviced it.,so I figure why not? Anyway..this crosspin is stopping me from being able to get the rotor off..what can I do to get the pin out?
Just need to remove the entire spool shaft by opening up the sideplate and removing the pin, screw, or keeper holding the shaft in.
Remove the shaft — then the rotor will come off.
With most modern spinner disassemblies — pop off the spool — remove the crank handle — open up the sideplate — remove the spool shaft keeper — remove the rotor nut & rotor — then decide how much farther you plan on going. All of this takes just a couple of minutes.
No need to remove the cross pin.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on December 01, 2018, 06:24:23 AM
Just need to remove the entire spool shaft by opening up the sideplate and removing the pin, screw, or keeper holding the shaft in.
Remove the shaft — then the rotor will come off.
With most modern spinner disassemblies — pop off the spool — remove the crank handle — open up the sideplate — remove the spool shaft keeper — remove the rotor nut & rotor — then decide how much farther you plan on going. All of this takes just a couple of minutes.
No need to remove the cross pin.
Ok ...I'll try it..thanks,,hope things are good on your end..R
Best,
Fred
that's pretty much a permanent crossbar -- not a pin to be removed each service
reversed disassembly sequence: do the gearbox, first; pull the shaft out the top; get under the rotor, last
[NOTE: sometimes, because of extra grime or stupid design, you have to loosen the the nut & let the rotor dangle, before you can pry off the sideplate... PITA, but still easier than trying to remove that "pin"]
Quote from: philaroman on December 01, 2018, 10:39:26 AM
that's pretty much a permanent crossbar -- not a pin to be removed each service
reversed disassembly sequence: do the gearbox, first; pull the shaft out the top; get under the rotor, last
[NOTE: sometimes, because of extra grime or stupid design, you have to loosen the the nut & let the rotor dangle, before you can pry off the sideplate... PITA, but still easier than trying to remove that "pin"]
Thanks...the side plate came off easy...but I haven't disassembled yet..
sorry, the "stupid design" dig applies to much later Malaysian rear-drag (Spirex?) -- not your reel
when you disassemble, go slow & take pics (esp. the rear drag) -- if I recall, there are parts you DON'T want to flip & the schematic is too fuzzy to show which way they go!
Quote from: philaroman on December 02, 2018, 12:41:34 AM
sorry, the "stupid design" dig applies to much later Malaysian rear-drag (Spirex?) -- not your reel
when you disassemble, go slow & take pics (esp. the rear drag) -- if I recall, there are parts you DON'T want to flip & the schematic is too fuzzy to show which way they go!
I've never been inside a rear drag reel,,maybe I should leave that part alone.
1) best to take a look -- who knows what's in there after 30 yrs.?
2) if you leave it alone, the keyed parts will likely get misaligned after you take the spool shaft out -- might be tough to wiggle it back in
3) is exact model "AX 300Q"? ...schematic is surprisingly clear, for an oldie: http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/ax300q.pdf (http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/ax300q.pdf)
...and drag is an impressive 6-stack+1 -- upgrade to CF, and you get a BEAST
P.S., your older post mentioned you want braid; line-lay won't be great; IMO, go 40-50# so diameter is closer to intended mono line-class
Quote from: philaroman on December 02, 2018, 04:00:20 AM
1) best to take a look -- who knows what's in there after 30 yrs.?
2) if you leave it alone, the keyed parts will likely get misaligned after you take the spool shaft out -- might be tough to wiggle it back in
3) is exact model "AX 300Q"? ...schematic is surprisingly clear, for an oldie: http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/ax300q.pdf (http://dunphysports.com/forms/warranty/schematic/ax300q.pdf)
...and drag is an impressive 6-stack+1 -- upgrade to CF, and you get a BEAST
P.S., your older post mentioned you want braid; line-lay won't be great; IMO, go 40-50# so diameter is
closer to intended mono line-class
Actually,no it's an AX 300..I have an AX 300Q,,this is a bit different.
very similar rear drags
also, I'm guessing both reels have plastic bushings on the main gear, which are prob. brittle after 30 yrs.
bearings (or brass bushings, for S/W) would be a nice upgrade
pretty sure it's the most common Shimano size (7 X 13 X 4 mm), but check
Quote from: philaroman on December 03, 2018, 05:37:30 AM
very similar rear drags
also, I'm guessing both reels have plastic bushings on the main gear, which are prob. brittle after 30 yrs.
bearings (or brass bushings, for S/W) would be a nice upgrade
pretty sure it's the most common Shimano size (7 X 13 X 4 mm), but check
Yes plastic bushings...I can't imagine these were expensive reels...wpyou would really consider adding bearings? I can't imagine these being worth much.
if you're going to use the reels -- why not? ...makes them smoother & stronger
guess I'm thinking from my own perspective: I have too many later models w/ dead gears & perfectly good bearings -- plenty of spares
I've also fixed & sold quite a few -- "upgraded to maximum bearing count" is a good selling point
Quote from: philaroman on December 03, 2018, 01:24:53 PM
if you're going to use the reels -- why not? ...makes them smoother & stronger
guess I'm thinking from my own perspective: I have too many later models w/ dead gears & perfectly good bearings -- plenty of spares
I've also fixed & sold quite a few -- "upgraded to maximum bearing count" is a good selling point
Well, I will think about it,but the bearings will probably be worth more than the reel lol.
Anyway,I took the gearbox apart,and the first small issue..the end of the shaft running through the main gear,had some pretty significant burr,preventing me from sliding the bushing off. Sandpaper wrapped around it took care of that in about 10 seconds. So now that I have the bushings off,how do you degrease plastic parts? I use brake cleaner to degrease metal,but wouldn't use it on plastic. So what should I use?
many options:
1) dishsoap + elbow grease :) Dawn Power Clean + old tooth brush
2) Fred says, Simple Green -- I wouldn't doubt him
3) WD40 soak w/ thorough water rinse (WD40 residue degrades grease)
4) oil soak, but don't waste reel oil -- sewing machine oil is MUCH cheaper
...if "some pretty significant burr" was S/W pitting, DEFINITELY open/inspect rear drag
Quote from: philaroman on December 04, 2018, 04:05:46 AM
many options:
1) dishsoap + elbow grease :) Dawn Power Clean + old tooth brush
2) Fred says, Simple Green -- I wouldn't doubt him
3) WD40 soak w/ thorough water rinse (WD40 residue degrades grease)
4) oil soak, but don't waste reel oil -- sewing machine oil is MUCH cheaper
...if "some pretty significant burr" was S/W pitting, DEFINITELY open/inspect rear drag
Ok ,but how should I approach disassembly of this section..not familiar at all with this type of system.
that's just basic old-school A/R ratchet/dog (aka, pawl) with disengaging "silent" dog
the top wire spring keeps the reel from going clunk, clunk, clunk as you retrieve
it just looks goofy because the self-centering ratchet only has one tooth, so the FastCast (aka, QuickFire) trigger returns right under your finger
before disassembly, play around with turning the A/R on/off & turn the pinion in both directions, by hand, to contemplate how it functions
Quote from: philaroman on December 04, 2018, 04:57:16 AM
that's just basic old-school A/R ratchet/dog (aka, pawl) with disengaging "silent" dog
the top wire spring keeps the reel from going clunk, clunk, clunk as you retrieve
it just looks goofy because the self-centering ratchet only has one tooth, so the FastCast (aka, QuickFire) trigger returns right under your finger
before disassembly, play around with turning the A/R on/off & turn the pinion in both directions, by hand, to contemplate how it functions
I was just wondering if taking the two screws out that hold the pinion in,,would be enough..or does the screw holding the dog in place have to come out as well...that wire is my concern.
just take it off, GENTLY! it's a spring -- it springs back to original shape
Quote from: philaroman on December 04, 2018, 07:39:38 PM
just take it off, GENTLY! it's a spring -- it springs back to original shape
Well I completed servicing it,,and of course,just like every spinning reel I have serviced,it feels worse than it did before I tore it down. A bit more geary,,and also,,I tore down the drag,,and it was very black coated ,I guess old grease,,looked like real old motor oil..some sand as well,,but when I put it back together,the clicking sound when adjusting the rear drag has pretty much disappeared,,,I don't think it was supposed to lol..so what did I do?
check the Drag Click is not bent & properly installed
part #876 for AX-300 (1987)
RD-1559 for AX-300Q (1988)
RD-1937 for AX-300Q (1989)
Quote from: philaroman on December 05, 2018, 09:55:10 PM
check the Drag Click is not bent & properly installed
part #876 for AX-300 (1987)
RD-1559 for AX-300Q (1988)
RD-1937 for AX-300Q (1989)
I haven't checked it out yet,,but I just realized that the self centering mechanism,doesn't work ..although I am not sure if this reel had that feature In the first place,,do you know?
Quote from: Scattergun2570 on December 11, 2018, 07:27:37 AMI haven't checked it out yet,,but I just realized that the self centering mechanism, doesn't work
completely "doesn't work", or stops in the wrong place?
if I remember, after a few rushed reassembles, the rotor centered/stopped half turn (180*) from where it should... don't remember which part I had to flip/rotate, but it was easy to figure out
Quote from: Scattergun2570 on December 11, 2018, 07:27:37 AM
although I am not sure if this reel had that feature In the first place,,do you know?
ALL Shimano with FastCast/QuickFire casting trigger have one-point, self-centering A/R -- that's how they work
Quote from: philaroman on December 11, 2018, 01:54:31 PM
Quote from: Scattergun2570 on December 11, 2018, 07:27:37 AMI haven't checked it out yet,,but I just realized that the self centering mechanism, doesn't work
completely "doesn't work", or stops in the wrong place?
if I remember, after a few rushed reassembles, the rotor centered/stopped half turn (180*) from where it should... don't remember which part I had to flip/rotate, but it was easy to figure o
Ye
Quote from: Scattergun2570 on December 11, 2018, 07:27:37 AM
although I am not sure if this reel had that feature In the first place,,do you know?
ALL Shimano with FastCast/QuickFire casting trigger have one-point, self-centering A/R -- that's how they work
Yeah 180 degrees out..what did I do?
going by the clear '88 300-Q schematic (same parts/names; dif. #'s)
& distant memory, so not 100%...
I believe the ratchet (RD-1604) is keyed to the pinion (RD-1609), so it can go on one of two ways
if it were a normal ratchet w/ teeth all around, it wouldn't matter which way
BUT, a self-centering ratchet can be installed with its one single tooth to either side,
which moves the rotor stop-point 180 degrees
...remember, I did warn you about flipping parts