so here's where i am on lubes so far.....
corrosion x - i pretty much use it exclusively. it was recommended years ago by the guys at my local shop. the claim being that it would not turn to varnish the same way common oils, even wd-40, would. i use in on fishing reel handles, level wind assemblies and in spool bearings. i have also started adding a drop or two to side plate screws when i'm worried about the frame cracking, like the frame of the daiwa saltiga. been pretty happy with the product over the years and i've got no plans on switching. rarely, i will use metaloil, rocket sauce, or hot sauce on bearings for some of the tournament bass guys that are never getting near salt water. i've never systematically investigated anthing else, and don't really see a need to.
yamaha all purpose grease - this stuff was recommended by the guys at my local grady dealership. it's salt water resistant, never hardens and stays blue forever. i can open up a reel 20 years from now and know that it's been service before. and if i open up a reel and i don't see blue grease, i know that it has not. honestly, that (and the $5 a pound price tag) is the reason i use yamaha blue grease. i grease all of the non-exposed metal surfaces with this stuff using just my greasy fingers or a ratty old toothbrush. i also pack all the non-spool bearings with it. it is another product that i have been very happy with.
cal's grease - at $25 a pound, it's a little pricy. i go through 6 pounds a year and i am only applying it to drag washers. there are still guys that do not believe in greased carbon fiber drag washers and for a while they were giving me constant grief. just to pee them off, i started slopping tons of grease on the the drag washers of star drag reels, then let the excess ooze out the sides. that saves you the trouble of wiping off the excess.
for smaller avet drag reels, i slop a little less grease on both sides of the drag washer and the matching surface of the spool, install the drag washer, and then wipe off all of the excess. i don't want the stainless steel drag pressure plate to stick because of the excess grease. that would decrease freespool. for drag systems that have a drag washer glued to an aluminum pressure plate (or to the spoon in the case of the new avets), i slop a bunch of grease all over the drag washer, particularly, the edges, and then carefully wipe off all of the excess. the goal here is to prevent water intrusion. if salt water gets inbetween the carbon fiber washer and the aluminum, the aluminum will bubble and the drag washer will stick. seen that plenty of times with older penn international drag pressure plates.
when i get an old lever drag reel with a carbon fiber drag washer, i grab an old blue rag and rub the surface of the drag washer. that will remove half of the old "crap" out of the drag washer and onto the rag. it will also drive the rest into the fiber material and out of play. the important point is to "raise the grain" of the carbon fiber material so you do not have a "glazed" surface. this prevents sticking of the carbon fiber to the stainless steel pressure plate.
you don't need any kind of fancy cleaners or solvents for this process. if the surface is glazed or corroded with salt, toss it. if it's just gummed up with oil or grease, it can often be cleaned with your trusty old rag. you will know that you are successful when you reassemble the reel, set the drag on your reel, yank on it and see no stickiness or "start up." if you're still having problems, get a new washer. the purpose of the teflon drag grease is to prevent water intrusion. if i recall the story correctly, penn's ht-100 carbon fiber drag washer got it's name because the penn engineers saw no wear on their carbon fiber material after 100 hours of constant full speed pressure. most reels would never see that level of performance in 100 years.
here's a link to the 3 ounce yamaha grease cartridge.....
http://www.usboatsupplies.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=USBS&Product_Code=ACC-GREAS-RE-FL&Category_Code=AYOM
here's something new for you. if someone would have told me that dribbling some of this new lube through a set of bearings would increase the freespool time from 15 seconds to 360 seconds, i would have smiled politely and started backing up towards the nearest exit. i just cleaned out the bearings and levelwind assembly of an old ambassaduer, then lubed it and the spin time was equally amazing (for a levelwind). my concern remains saltwater corrosion resistance. i am going to start playing with this stuff in my own reels. i'll keep you posted.
not affilliated, etc.... alan
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ok, now this is even more bizarre. after reassemblying the bare spool, i'm back down to 15 seconds of freespool. this is after cleaning and lubing the bearings with corrosion x, then letting it sit for several months before finally completing this post.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_29_01_09_9_51_20_1.jpeg)
before shipping the reel out, i decided to give it one more try and lubed it up with this stuff. i took both bearing out, stacked one on top of the other, then added some of this stuff down through the bearings. the freespool time jumped from 15 seconds to 3 minutes. i'm going to have to take a closer look at this stuff.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_29_01_09_9_51_23_2.jpeg)
4/15/09 - There a four different lubricants that I use in fishing reels. A "one size fits all" approach will work in some situations, but not this one. This continues to be a work in progress. As of this writing, April 2009, here are the four lubes that I've settled on.
Blue Grease – There are several different manufacturers that market blue greases for fishing reels. These products are all hydrocarbon based, salt water resistant, they never harden, (important to a service center) they stay blue forever and cost only $5 to 15 per pound. You can service a reel, open it up 10 years later and know that you've worked on it before. These blue greases can be packed into non-spool bearings, applied to all screws, gears and other non-exposed metal surfaces, and provide a lifetime of corrosion resistance. The product that I use is the $5 per pound Yamaha All Purpose Engine Grease. Don't use these blue greases on drag washers.
Drag Grease – There are currently three drag greases on the market, available from Shimano, Cal Sheets and Xtreme Lubricants. These products are Teflon-based and cost from $25 to 50 per pound. One way to separate these products is by melting temperature. Shimano's drag grease melts at 300 degrees Fahrenheit, Cal's drag grease melts at 500 degrees F, and the Xtreme drag grease melts at 1000 degrees F. Water, of course, boils at 212 degrees F at sea level. Unless you see steam coming from you fishing reel, you are nowhere near the melting temperature for any of these products. Under the heaviest drag settings with several hundred yard runs, there is a phenomenon called "high speed runout." Cal Sheets describes a decrease in drag pressure when a big fish is running long, hard and fast with lower melting temperature Teflon greases. This would not be a concern in the vast majority of situations. The product that I am currently using is the $25 per pound Cal's Drag, although the Shimano and Xtreme products perform equally well in the light tackle applications that I am commonly faced with.
Oils – For years, WD-40 had been a popular lubricant in fishing reels, but it turns to varnish over time and has generally fallen out of favor. Many other light hydrocarbon-based oils are available and provide excellent lubricant properties without turning to varnish over time. The product that I have used for the last ten years is Corrosion X. The polar molecular bonding that Corrosion X, Reel X and Speed X offer will give these products excellent lubricating properties and long life. I use these products on any parts of a reel that need a lighter lubricant that a heavy grease. Handles, levers, level wind assemblies, bearings and bushing are the most common places in a reel that are oiled rather than greased. Corrosion X sprayed into an old rag, after a fresh water rinse and towel dry, is also an excellent way of wiping down your reel after a day of fishing.
Dry Teflon Lubricants – For the last 2 months, I have been using a dry Teflon lubricant from Xtreme Lubricants on spool bearings. After cleaning out spool bearings and lubricating them with hydrocarbon based oils, freespool times of 30 to 60 seconds are typical. Lubricating these same spool bearings with one of these dry Teflon lubricants will increase the freespool times from seconds to minutes. Larger spools with a great deal of rotational inertia can spin for up to 5 minutes when the bearings are lubed with these newer dry Teflon lubes. Hydrocarbon-based oils can form can actually form a hydrodynamic wedge (like a standing wave on a very small scale) in front of the balls of the bearings that will actually slow your spin rate. The improvement in freespool time is dramatic! Another reel tech and I had independently tried this product, saw the improvement, and decided in a microsecond that we were going to use this product in our own personal reels. At issue is what to do for a customer. Corrosion resistance is still a concern, but even my tried and true Corrosion x does not last forever. So how good (or bad) is the corrosion protection from these dry Teflon lubes? I will have a final answer for you next year. For me personally, I know that better freespool will give me longer casting distances, and longer casting distances will catch me more fish.
from norcal pescador on May 10, 2010:
Graphite –The mineral Graphite is a crystalline form of Carbon. Graphite lubricant (powder) is made from super-finely ground graphite pieces or chunks. Graphite powder will absorb moisture and clump, basically returning to its pre-ground form (little rocks). It is for this reason that you should never use graphite in fishing reel bearings (or in any other precision mechanism.) I learned about graphite from a well-experienced and educated locksmith while working part-time for him.
Quote from: BigT on January 16, 2010, 10:58:26 AM
Hi Alan, I notice that the reels you've showcased so far are predominantly overhead reels but I'm sure you have a wealth of knowledge about spinning reels too... hence my 2 questions if you're open to sharing your ideas around them?? Firstly, I've had conflicting suggestions about the lubing of clutch bearings in spin reels (I guess overheads would be much the same situation)... some manufacturers suggest a film coat of grease... some say no lubrication at all... all say don't use oil as it can cause the anti reverse to fail... etc, etc, etc. What would you recommend for clutch bearings? Secondly, a lot of spin reels these days have ridiculously small bearings in the line roller assembly. I've been packing them with grease for protection but again, what would you recommend please? Cheers, BigT
accurate did a fair amount of research with anti-reverse roller bearings and found that corrosion x was the best overall product. shimano is now using a thinner grease on their roller bearings. it appears to be a mix of their standard teflon drag grease mixed with an unknown oil (presumably a compatible teflon oil). it's a no win situation. if you leave these anti-reverse roller bearings bone dry, they hold great, but the plain steel (not stainless) needles will rust immediately. if you pack grease into the bearings or add an oil of any type, the inner tube in the roller bearing will slip at a lower range. see what i mean? either way, you loose.
so personally, what i use is just plain old corrosion x. it will slip under an excessive load. it is now critical that your drag system function properly and not seize up. there is simply a physical limit to what these reels can do. and the reason that reels have been pushed so hard is that they have fallen behind. reel performance has perhaps doubled at best. line performance (mono versus spectra) has improved 5 fold. we need reels that have a 5 fold increase in performance as well.
i've had so many guys ask, that i finally had my friend make up a bunch of adaptors for those small grease guns.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_19_5.jpeg)
i also ordered a whole bunch of inflator needles and cut the tips off with my dremmel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_14_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_16_2.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_16_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_13_2.jpeg)
an adaptor and 4-5 inflator needles will sell for $5 with local shipping included. these needles make quick work of greasing screw holes.
i've also come to realize how vulnerable bearings are. a bearing with a seal or a shield held in by a retaining ring can be opened up, hand packed with grease and then re-sealed or re-shielded. if your bearing has a pressed-in metal shield. the only way to pack it with grease used to require that you remove one of the shields and press the grease in with your thumb. when you're trying to service a half dozen lever drag reels in one afternoon, packing bearings with your thumbs gets really old. that's where a bearing packer comes in handy. i had tom make these as well. he wanted to make them out of less expensive aluminum, but i said brass. i just like the look!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_20_6.jpeg)
i've been using these for the last month and have been actually quite pleased with myself! the bearing packer on the left is stepped ever sixteenth of an inch and will accomodate a 1/16ths inch ID to a 1-1/8ths inch OD. the bearing packer on the right is stepped every millimeter from a 2mm ID to a 26mm OD. these are designed to accomodate all of the bearings sizes commonly encountered in fishing reels.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_21_7.jpeg)
the standard bearing packer has a ring and the metric bearing packer is plain. both are tapped on top to 1/8th inch pipe thread and have a zerx fitting (which i do not particularly like).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_21_8.jpeg)
the bearings really fit nicely! i think this is much better than the flat cone that is more commonly seen.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_24_22_9.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_12_0.jpeg)
the 1/8th inch pipe fitting is common for small grease guns available in the united states. i prefer to bypass the zerx fitting all together and just bolt the bearing packer directly to the grease gun. these bearing packers allow you to force grease into a bearing without removing the shield. it is MUCH quicker. i'm going to sell the bearing packers for $25 each. so basically, i am selling a metric bearing packer, a standard inch bearing packer, a nozzle adaptor, and needles for $60 with US shipping. that's the cost of 5 average shimano bearings!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_13_1.jpeg)
now for the mea culpa. i've been using this yamaha grease for a long time now and i purchase it from the local grady dealership. they had the big cartridges, the small cartridges and the 1 pound cans at the beginning. for the last few years, they've only had the large cartridges. so i finally asked the guy, "so what's up? why don't you carry the small 3 ounce cartridges or the 1 pound cans anymore?" the answer surprised the hell out of me. apparently the marine grease is only packed in 14 ounce cartridges. the others are not marine grade. they're still blue, but they're intended for motorcycles and snow mobiles!!!!!!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_14_3.jpeg)
the greases are both the same, except that the marine grease has an additive that makes it salt water resistant.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_15_4.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_16_5.jpeg)
if you want a 3 ounce cartridge of yamaha marine, you have to take an old paper cartridge of any old grease, clean it out really well and then hand pack it with the grease from the 14 ounce cartridge. trust me, it's a real mess. your other option is this stuff. this is evinrude-johnson's marine grease. it's a little thicker and alot more tackier than the yamaha product, but you have none of the mess.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_16_6.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_18_8.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_01_04_10_2_25_19_9.jpeg)
here's what they look like side by side. either way, they will both work fine. alan
Quote from: SharkFisher on June 29, 2010, 04:32:17 AM
Hi Alan,
I am fairly new to the site, and by the way I have been recommending it to my fishing friends. It is nice to see something really valuable on the web without a major sales pitch to go with it. I want to extend my personal Thank You. After going through your reel rebuild tutorials, I decided to hunt for the grease and corrosion x product. One thing should be noted, I went to two Yamaha dealers and although both had the marine grease, it was not translucent like the described grease. It has a turquoise tint, this should be noted so people reading the thread do not continue to seek the translucent non-marine yamaha grease. Again, this is a wonderful site with plenty of information. Thanks again.
Sharkfisher aka: Brian.
I used to live on the great lakes in Michigan catching salmon, walleye, bass and fill the cooler with perch. Moved to Florida, destroyed most of my gear, and caught some monster reds, trout, shark ..etc. Different world here.
thanks! i'll post that. alan
i still have corrosion x as my totally reliable all purpose lubricant. i tried reel x and speed x and did not see a big enough improvement to justify the cost. xtreme reel + is without a doubt the fastest, slickest stuff in the world but just does not last long enough. jim nomura brought over some TSI 301 and i've been using it for the last 3 months. i'm am going to use this for a while and see how it goes. so far, so good. alan
greases and oils - an update (9/14/2010)
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I just want to find out which reel grease & oil do you prefer best. I usually drop off my reels to a tackle store to get it cleaned and lubricated, but it's quite too much in this economy. There's alot of brands out there and I want to see what you can help me on, anything positive or negative, feel free to say. Some brand I saw include:
Abu Garcia Silicote
Quantum Hot Sauce
Ardent Reel Butter
Daiwa Reel Grease & Oil
Penn Synthetic
grease is easy. shimano drag grease still works very well at $50 per pound. cal's drag grease is every bit as good, probably even better, and is half the price at $25 per pound. for general purpose grease, i still prefer the $5 a pound yamaha marine all purpose grease. the omc stuff is too tacky for my liking. penn makes a great product, daiwa's blue grease works great, they all work great. for coating the inside of a reel, i use a ratty old tooth brush that is mostly yamaha marine grease, but it has residue of maybe 20 other greases mixed in. it's no big deal. you just need a light coat of something, anything, to prevent corrosion on the inside of a reel.
for a general purpose oil, i use corrosion x. i have no idea what's in it. the company won't tell, but it's cheap enough and has worked well enough over the last 10 years that i feel very comfortable recommending it even though i don't know what it's made out of. you're looking at $17 for a big pump bottle or spray can that will last me a couple of months, but will last the average fisherman a lifetime. compared to some other lubes, corrosion x has the viscosity of pancake syrup, but i think that it is the single best all purpose product out there. and it's cheap!
then there are the performance lubes that cost $5-10 for a single one ounce bottle. ok, if it's going to cost as much as a single malt scotch, i want to know what's in it before i recommend it. products like quantum's hot sauce, metaloil, reel-x, and all the house brands from penn, daiwa, and shimano, all fall into this category. these products are all much faster than corrosion x, they are much more expensive than corrosion x, and the formulations are all secret. it's fine to have secrets, but until these products are all objectively (there's that word again) evaluated, it would be tough for anyone to make an objective recommendation.
now for xtreme reel +. i used it for over a year and stopped. it is, without a doubt, the fastest stuff out there. it is a teflon polymer lubricant suspended in a freon carrier. the freon evaporates in microseconds and leaves a thin dry film of teflon. the freespool from a reel properly cleaned and then lubed with xtreme reel + is mind blowing! but it only lasts a few weeks. after that point, the freespool is the same as corrosion x, meaning mediocre. still, if you are a tournament guy or a long ranger and you service your reels before every trip, try xtreme reel + and prepare to be amazed. it will absolutely, positively, deliver the fastest longest freespool of any product on the market today.
and finally, there is tsi 301. jim nomura has been working with me for the last half a year. he is an engineer and brought a level of engineering expertise that was sorely missing in this little hobby endeavor of mine. one thing he brought in was tsi 301. i'm guessing that the freespool from reel treated with tsi 301 is perhaps 80% that of a reel treated with xtreme reel +. the big advantage of tsi 301 is that it lasts much longer. i believe that we are looking at 6 to 12 months of great freespool for tsi 301 versus 1-2 weeks for xtreme reel +. this puts the performance on a par with the other superlubes mentioned above, but at a half to a quarter of the price of the superlubes. i've been using it for the last 6 months now (as of 9/2010) and have been very, very, impressed. the downside? it's $20 plus shipping, it is only available on line, and shipping is slow as molassas.
so right now it's yamaha marine all purpose blue grease for all the non-exposed metal surfaces, cal's drag grease for carbon fiber drag washer, corrosion x for a general purpose low speed oil (bearings, levelwinds, handles), and tsi 301 for high speed bearings and levelwinds. for your application, you could grab any of the superlubes online or at any shop and do just fine!
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Grease
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan,
I have read through your thread on greases and oils. I am west coast rep for a product called Inox. Inox was developed in Australia as a anti-corrosion, anti-moisture protective penetrating lubricant for the corrosive elements of the salt mines over 23 years ago.
We have both greases and oils along with a battery conditioner that will reverse the sulphation process which is what kills the battery.
Our products contain no Acid, Silicon, Kerosene or Dieselene. Inox will not dry out, become gooey or sticky or wash off with water. Inox contains no petro-chemicals which makes them non-hyrdoscopic. Petroleum based product draw moisture to them as the base evaporates. Our product base is a mix of high grade machine oils. We add to them to modifiy our product for different applications. Sometimes adding high grade Teflon or lanolin for add lubrication or protection.
Our products are non-toxic. Five off our best selling products are food grade with a Kosher certification. Some off our customers included include NASA, Kennedy Space Center, Fedex, Harley Davidson and Avet.
Our products are available in some tackle shops with more to come. Anglers Choice, Last Chance and Point Loma Tackle. We currently have non-paid write ups in Offshore Angler and Marlin Magazine.
I would like to send you some samples and some information about the different uses of our products. Please visit our websites for other information about Inox Products.
johnjordan@inoxlube.com
(951) 551-0851 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (951) 551-0851 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
__________________
GO CLEAN! GO GREEN! GO INOX!
http://www.inoxlube.com
Quote from: Grain of SaltAlan-
Thank you for the informative post. I always gain good information from your posts and appreciate your efforts.
Regarding Corrison-X...when it first came out, I think in the early 90's I sent for the MSDS and was surprised to find the main ingredients to be mineral oil and zinc, very simple...I am sure there is more to it but that made up over 95% of it at that time...
Thanks for always inspiring me to tear apart my toys.
Jim Brown
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,26443.0.html
Quote from: Dale L on September 15, 2010, 06:03:49 PM
I wanted to throw in on quick comment here.
I work in an oil refinery lab, we don't make lubes of any kind any more but long ago we did make a complete variety of lubes including marine lubes and greases including something called "blue grease". I had the pleasure of working with some old lube oil research people.
The point is, there are additives in marine lubes that absolutely do work to protect against salt water corrosion. They don't put these additives in non-marine lubes.
We used to do tests where we would immerse fresh polished carbon steel in marine lube oil, then add synthetic sea water then after some constant mixing, heat, and aging time, check the condition of the steel probe. The protection offered by marine lubes was phenomenal. The probes would generally come out looking as good as when they went in. We did a similar test once with automotive motor oil, the probe looked like a turd after the test.
So in short, always used a lube designed for the use, don't short cut or get in a hurry and use non-marine lubes in marine apps.
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Hi Alan, Speaking of grease, I found out from viewing your attachment about how the 3oz Yamaha grease is not the same as the 14oz size. I went to a local Yamaha marine service center and purchased a 14oz size cartridge of the marine grease. When I got home, I got to thinking that I don't really want to wield around a big grease gun for small screw holes and crevices. So, the next day I exchanged the 14oz size for the 3 pack of smaller cartridges. After I got home, I viewed your email attachment and learned about how the smaller cartridge of grease is not the same as the marine grease in the larger size. The next day I exchanged the 3 pack for the original 14oz cartridge. I did purchase a similar grease gun from Home Depot. I have to fill it from the 14oz cartridge. It'll be messy but I'll deal with it. The gun I purchased is like the one you have the bearing packer attached to. In order to avoid a long tube extension, I plan on getting a right angle brass fitting to feed the grease from the top of the gun.
I would like to order the entire package for $60.00.
Thank you,
Bill
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Well, I finally got to rebuild 2 identical reels. Both reels were Penn's 209 level winding reels. The rebuild was as http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=659.0
The only difference was the spool shaft, left side and right side spool bushings, left and right side line guide bushings, and the line guide assembly was lubed with TSI321 on one reel and the other with CorrosionX.
The result was freespool lasted almost twice as long on the reel lubed with TSI321 as with CorrosionX. Although these reels will not be great casters, presumeably, give all things equal, the reel lubed with TSI will have a slight distance advantage over the CorrosionX.
Alan, how do you feel about Ca's grease on gears? Thx, Jim
Cal's grease can be used on gears. If you only have one grease available, Cal's can be used throught your reel. It's just expensive and that is why marine grease is used elsewhere due to the number of reels that Alan does.
I actually had the idea today while inside of Kragen Auto.. they have this little display with lucas oil additive and you turn gears and it runs waaayyy smoother.. it would be cool stuff to use, but you would have to have an enclosed gear system.. otherwise you would end up with oil all over your reel..not good! ;D ;D
That what it looks like when I use the Evinrude Triple Guard grease plus CorrosionX. That is why I like it. It reminds me of the Lucas gear lub additive.
Has anyone used the CLP BREAK-FREE lubricant?
It was recommended to me by a friend to use on my fishing reels. I purchased one 4oz. bottle a little while ago and used it on a couple of frozen handle knobs, the results were amazing! I was wondering if anyone used this product on bearings and other reel parts. Here are some of the specs. Thanks!
Break-Free CLP Performance Gun Care Products meet the U.S. Military specifications for use on weapons and weapon systems. The U.S. Military, NATO, and over 30 militaries around the world choose to use this all-in-one cleaner, lubricant, and preservative to keep their weapons combat ready and dependable in battle under any conditions. Break-Free CLP passes over 14 U.S. Army and NATO performance tests that include baking to 150 degrees Fahrenheit and freezing to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit, sea-water immersion tests, and intensive, extended firing tests.
What's the deal with Cal's Light Grease? Is it better for drag washers? Preferred for gears? Does anyone know??
it stays softer in cold weather environs, like alaska!!!!!!!!
Okay this is a noob question. Do those tube of grease fit into the glue gun, or you squeeze them into the glue gun w/o the paper canister? I've just squeeze a tube of quicksliver 2-4-C into my glue gun, now having the feel that I've done it wrongly.
Quote from: Nuvole on June 16, 2011, 04:53:05 PM
Okay this is a noob question. Do those tube of grease fit into the glue gun, or you squeeze them into the glue gun w/o the paper canister? I've just squeeze a tube of quicksliver 2-4-C into my glue gun, now having the feel that I've done it wrongly.
I'm not sure about using a glue gun. ???
I believe the Johnson-Evinrude marine grease comes in a 3 ounce tube but others have reported it's very "sticky". I haven't tried it. The Yamaha Marine grease only comes in a 14 ounce tube so you will have to transfer it to a smaller gun if you want convenience. And yes, most small guns need a grease cartridge inside to seal and work properly. I found the WalMart brand GP grease comes in a plastic cartridge so it's pretty easy (and cheap! ;D ) to clean out before putting it in the gun and loading it with Yamaha Marine.
Quote from: alantani on February 13, 2011, 08:53:22 PM
it stays softer in cold weather environs, like alaska!!!!!!!!
;D
And they advertise it's good as a general lube for smaller mechanisms like spinning reels. Got some, just started using it, still using the tan Cal's as my primary drag grease.
And it tastes better than blubber ;D Dominick
Quote from: alantani on September 15, 2010, 07:25:22 PM
greases and oils - an update (9/14/2010)
Quote
and finally, there is tsi 301. jim nomura has been working with me for the last half a year. he is an engineer and brought a level of engineering expertise that was sorely missing in this little hobby endeavor of mine. one thing he brought in was tsi 301. i'm guessing that the freespool from reel treated with tsi 301 is perhaps 80% that of a reel treated with xtreme reel +. the big advantage of tsi 301 is that it lasts much longer. i believe that we are looking at 6 to 12 months of great freespool for tsi 301 versus 1-2 weeks for xtreme reel +. this puts the performance on a par with the other superlubes mentioned above, but at a half to a quarter of the price of the superlubes. i've been using it for the last 6 months now (as of 9/2010) and have been very, very, impressed. the downside? it's $20 plus shipping, it is only available on line, and shipping is slow as molassas.
Alan,
It is now about a year since this post that included the TSI 301.
Any new opinions?
Thanks,
And Thanks in advance for all of the knowledge that you put out there!
TjB
tsi 301 is great stuff. i'm sticking with it.
Quote from: alantani on August 07, 2011, 10:58:44 PM
tsi 301 is great stuff. i'm sticking with it.
Me too! ;)
i'll bet this would work in a pinch!
Quote
Alan,
Take a look on Grainger's website. They are selling a tube of PTFE grease for $18.53 (grainger number 4TA91) that might be useful. "Premium PTFE Food Grade Grease, Container Size 14 oz Cartridge, Size/Net Weight 14 oz, Temp Range -5 to 400 F, Color White, NLGI Grade 2, Flash Point 200 F, PTFE Base, Film Type Semi-Solid to Solid Grease, Specific Gravity 0.89 @25 Degrees C"
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TRIFLOW-Premium-PTFE-Food-Grade-Grease-4TA91?Pid=search
Great forum, by the way.
Thanks for any info,
Steve
international shipping for tsi 301. http://www.pilkguns.com/masprlist.htm
What do you think of this fat? Can I use it to drag washer?
And that other fat? In Italy, I could not find Cal's oil. Only Penn and Mitchell Troivo X7. You know him? And 'good? thanks
This grease you know?
the products you've shown should all be hydrocarbon based, not tefon based. for drag washers, you have to use a teflon grease. hydrocarbon or lithium based products will not work. you can use any of them on any part of the reel except the drag washer. sorry, alan
Riminds me when I came from Italy in the 70's, I was trying to translate Italian words to English ;D, The word Fat is used as for grease there, well.....fat is grease.
The second, Mysticparts.com should ship Cal's to Italy, that's the grease that Alan recommends for drag washers, you can use the Penn grease for everything else except the bearings, we use reel-x for bearings and yamaha marine grease. Good luck!
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
If you can't get Cal's "fat" shipped look for high temperature Teflon steam turbine packing grease.
Found this site about why TSI 301 works;
http://www.tsi301.com/issynthetic.htm
yeah, saw that. it's great at telling you what it does, what it doesn't do, and what it is, but not so specific about what it's made of. :-\
As long as it's good for my reels and green then I won't mind Alan. ;D
I want to use Cal's grease for ht 100 drag washers for Newell 200 and 300 series reels and Penn reels. Should I use the tan or blue Cal's grease? The reels will be used in the Northeast?
either one will be fine!
Wow just found this site by accident, i have read some of your posts on other forum but i did not know you had your own site.I have been tuning and upgradeing reels for a few years and have tried several oils and reel greases little did i know the best was allready in my greasegun for my yamaha 90hp. I am with you on the topic of greasing carbontex washers i was using super lube multipurpose grease on my reels for drag and bearings with no problems untill i went fishing last weekend and took a dip in the river , no damage done this time but the lube turned into oleo,as of today its yamaha lube for the innards and cals for the drag.
All my reels have ceramic hybrid spool bearings i prefer to leave one side open and i have been cleaning them with quickstart fluid and then oiling with rocket fuel tourniment grade just before a fishing trip, for the most anglers are astounded at the distance acheaved with ceramics but are put off by the upkeep neccesary to keep them free running, i am really interested in the tsi 301 you are talking about where can this and the other lubes you listed be found? i live in canada and for the most have to get most of my supplies from the US. Cheers glad i found this forum
glad to have you aboard!
Quote from: inhotpursuit on October 26, 2011, 12:47:45 AM
Wow just found this site by accident, i have read some of your posts on other forum but i did not know you had your own site.I have been tuning and upgradeing reels for a few years and have tried several oils and reel greases little did i know the best was allready in my greasegun for my yamaha 90hp. I am with you on the topic of greasing carbontex washers i was using super lube multipurpose grease on my reels for drag and bearings with no problems untill i went fishing last weekend and took a dip in the river , no damage done this time but the lube turned into oleo,as of today its yamaha lube for the innards and cals for the drag.
All my reels have ceramic hybrid spool bearings i prefer to leave one side open and i have been cleaning them with quickstart fluid and then oiling with rocket fuel tourniment grade just before a fishing trip, for the most anglers are astounded at the distance acheaved with ceramics but are put off by the upkeep neccesary to keep them free running, i am really interested in the tsi 301 you are talking about where can this and the other lubes you listed be found? i live in canada and for the most have to get most of my supplies from the US. Cheers glad i found this forum
Hey! nice to see you here kenny! Did that really happen to SuperLube grease when it got dunked in freshwater? It clearly states on their label that it's impervious to saltwater. When I got my order of SuperLube, I immediately changed out the cheap reel grease I had been using to these >:( On the bright side, I like its consistency. Not too light, and not too tacky either.
@Alan, how often do you apply TSI 301 to your bearings? and how does it hold up against corrosion? On a normal basis, I put 1 drop of SpeedX to each of my spool bearings every 2-3 freshwater trips or after each saltwater trip. If TSI 301 doesn't need to be reapplied for longer periods of time, don't you get worried that rust might have gotten into your bearings?
By the way kenny, I'm not too sure if TSI 301 will work on ceramics. From what I've read it only bonds to metals, and knowing you, all your bearings are ceramic :)
my makairas are fine after one year with tsi 301.......
Quote from: antonv on November 14, 2011, 09:46:34 AM
Quote from: inhotpursuit on October 26, 2011, 12:47:45 AM
Wow just found this site by accident, i have read some of your posts on other forum but i did not know you had your own site.I have been tuning and upgradeing reels for a few years and have tried several oils and reel greases little did i know the best was allready in my greasegun for my yamaha 90hp. I am with you on the topic of greasing carbontex washers i was using super lube multipurpose grease on my reels for drag and bearings with no problems untill i went fishing last weekend and took a dip in the river , no damage done this time but the lube turned into oleo,as of today its yamaha lube for the innards and cals for the drag.
All my reels have ceramic hybrid spool bearings i prefer to leave one side open and i have been cleaning them with quickstart fluid and then oiling with rocket fuel tourniment grade just before a fishing trip, for the most anglers are astounded at the distance acheaved with ceramics but are put off by the upkeep neccesary to keep them free running, i am really interested in the tsi 301 you are talking about where can this and the other lubes you listed be found? i live in canada and for the most have to get most of my supplies from the US. Cheers glad i found this forum
Hey! nice to see you here kenny! Did that really happen to SuperLube grease when it got dunked in freshwater? It clearly states on their label that it's impervious to saltwater. When I got my order of SuperLube, I immediately changed out the cheap reel grease I had been using to these >:( On the bright side, I like its consistency. Not too light, and not too tacky either.
@Alan, how often do you apply TSI 301 to your bearings? and how does it hold up against corrosion? On a normal basis, I put 1 drop of SpeedX to each of my spool bearings every 2-3 freshwater trips or after each saltwater trip. If TSI 301 doesn't need to be reapplied for longer periods of time, don't you get worried that rust might have gotten into your bearings?
By the way kenny, I'm not too sure if TSI 301 will work on ceramics. From what I've read it only bonds to metals, and knowing you, all your bearings are ceramic :)
Hi Anton, the water that turned the superlube to that nasty looking oleo was fresh water,i have since changed all the lube in my reels to yamaha grease,i know that stuff works well because i use it on my boat which spends a lot of time in the saltchuck and none of my greased parts show any signs of rust,as for using tsi on my ceramics i am not worried that the lube will not permeate the ceramic balls they are so round ,smooth and hard that they do not need lube however the frame and races are stainless steel and do need a little lube, i was running my bearings dry but started using rocket fuel tourniment grade but the lube does not stay on the races for very long hence my interest in the tsi.BTW you should be getting the ceramics soon they will be via Alan or J.P.
TSI301 service life is expected to be 5 years + provided there is no contamination. What this means is the TSI301 will not out gas or oxidize in that time and retain it's original properties. That's why they use it in AEROSPACE and Cameras where there is extreme long life and there is very little contamination.
Jim N.
does anybody know if it is available to canada?
Has anyone used this grease available at WalMart? 3 oz. and 14 oz. tubes.
http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=marine+grease&ic=16_0&Find=Find&search_constraint=0 (http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=marine+grease&ic=16_0&Find=Find&search_constraint=0)
I bought a package of the 3 ouncers just so I could use the tubes after I cleaned the grease out. ;D The empty tubes are used in my grease gun when I refill it with Yamaha Marine grease. :-\
i just found some extra tubes of junk grease. i'm going to start doing the same. alan
I may have missed it, but what is the answer as to whether TSI 301 is suitable for ceramic bearings? I just ordered an 8oz can from the manufacturer in New Jersey. The lady who took my order told me they have been swamped by calls from fisherman.
Alan, am I correct in that you simply dip your bearings in it, let them drip dry for a few minutes and install the bearings? This is a great site by the way and I am glad I found it.
i'm actually not sure about ceramics and tsi 301/321. i always use stainless steel bearings, never ceramics. (ok, i'm an old fuddy dutty, but i like stainless.) i clean them with carb cleaner and a gentle amount of compressed air. the goal is to get these to spin for 10-15 seconds when then are dry as a bone. then i know for sure that they're clean. THEN i dip them in tsi 301 and set them down on a clean rag long enough to get to the next bearing. then they are all installled and we're good.
again, credit goes to jim nomura for finding this stuff. otherwise i'd be back to corrosion x. ;D
Quote from: VW on November 16, 2011, 04:01:39 PM
Has anyone used this grease available at WalMart? 3 oz. and 14 oz. tubes.
http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=marine+grease&ic=16_0&Find=Find&search_constraint=0 (http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?search_query=marine+grease&ic=16_0&Find=Find&search_constraint=0)
The description states that the Walmart product is a Lithium complex grease. Lithium complex has great to excellent washout properties, what makes it suitable for reels. This grease is possible a product from a major supplier. Could be Mobilgrease XHP 222, an excellent grease. I you are looking for high end grease and oil products for little money try McMaster-Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com
Alan, another question on 301 longevity. What is your plan for determining what to do for bearings you have treated with 301 regarding retreatment, wait until performance falls off, etc? As good as this stuff is, how in the world do you clean bearings treated with it, or do they ever need to be cleaned, just retreated? I received my can yesterday, so I am getting ready to take the plunge and wonder were to go from here for bearing TLC.
not sure about longevity. my gear is done with it's second season and they still spin fine. so the answer so far is 2 years. we'll see if i can make it to three, though i will probably go through them before i go on my next long range trip. alan
I have had good luck with Ardent Bearing oil and the stock shimano oil. I did place a order on Speedx.
Interesting tread, great reading.
Probably wouldn't work for the salt water bunch or the casting contest guys, but I've have very good luck using just 20wt turbine oil and white lithium grease.
I did use the Cals on the drag washers I installed as that's what Smooth Drag recommended and I have no experience with replacing them.
I use a mixture of the grease and oil for bearing and gears and have very good luck with this combination.
I used to have a partner I fished tournaments with and he thought it was great to sit and watch the Vikings play and do maintenance on casting reels, he used this mixture and I still have most of the reels I picked up in the mid to early 80's, even both 6500C's and one of two Diawa 6HS Millionaire reels I used when we fished Musky's, not to mention the other 6500 and 6600 models I've picked up.
Been a good mixture in both the casting and spinning reels I have.
But...always willing to learn, considering I fish only fresh water you think I'd gain much by using some of the products you are?
TIA
Al
Quote from: alantani on October 07, 2011, 08:59:15 AM
the products you've shown should all be hydrocarbon based, not tefon based. for drag washers, you have to use a teflon grease. hydrocarbon or lithium based products will not work. you can use any of them on any part of the reel except the drag washer. sorry, alan
Well,
I wish I had read this before! Oh well, at least I have enough practice now, I can take them back down and start over with some Teflon based grease. I guess it's all about learning !
Thanks for the info Alan, and everyone else!
Mic
i just finshed working on a reel that took me two hours instead of 20 minutes. the guy use that tacky light blue grease for the bearings of trailer axles, instead of good quality marine grease. gentlemen, please do not use the light blue trailer bearing grease, it's awful stuff.
Quote from: alantani on December 18, 2011, 06:27:39 PM
i just finshed working on a reel that took me two hours instead of 20 minutes. the guy use that tacky light blue grease for the bearings of trailer axles, instead of good quality marine grease. gentlemen, please do not use the light blue trailer bearing grease, it's awful stuff.
You have to charge for time and materials when that happens. That's a 6 to 1 ratio. Dominick
Quote from: Pescachaser on December 18, 2011, 06:35:26 PM
[You have to charge for time and materials when that happens. That's a 6 to 1 ratio. Dominick
Yea, why don't you try this ratio? That's six 7up's and 1 zin, and not the other way around ;D.
It's a Sunday afternoon. What does one drink with their pizza? Maybe I ought to start another thread. Nah! not fishing related unless its anchovy pizza. Sal: Do you still drink 7up with your wine? Maybe I'll try it again. I haven't had wine with 7up since I was 5 years old. ;) Dominick
Quote from: alantani on September 17, 2010, 09:03:08 AM
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,26443.0.html
Quote from: Dale L on September 15, 2010, 06:03:49 PM
I wanted to throw in on quick comment here.
I work in an oil refinery lab, we don't make lubes of any kind any more but long ago we did make a complete variety of lubes including marine lubes and greases including something called "blue grease". I had the pleasure of working with some old lube oil research people.
The point is, there are additives in marine lubes that absolutely do work to protect against salt water corrosion. They don't put these additives in non-marine lubes.
We used to do tests where we would immerse fresh polished carbon steel in marine lube oil, then add synthetic sea water then after some constant mixing, heat, and aging time, check the condition of the steel probe. The protection offered by marine lubes was phenomenal. The probes would generally come out looking as good as when they went in. We did a similar test once with automotive motor oil, the probe looked like a turd after the test.
So in short, always used a lube designed for the use, don't short cut or get in a hurry and use non-marine lubes in marine apps.
Yes they do, I guess he means Barium Dinonylnaphthalene Sulfonate, or Neutral Barium Dinonylnaphthalene Sulfonate. Anti rust additives are common in many modern oil products, also in automotive greases.
KB do you know which marine greases use the barium compounds? I think this is the stuff that is supposed to make TSI 301/321 so effective - Thanks - Jimmer
There are hundreds, or maybe thousands of different grease products on the market, so the best thing is to look at the data sheet, or the medical sheet that normally is available on the manufactures homepage. But beware that "marine grease" is a just a branding name, it covers both products made particular for stem tubes(that emulsifies and expands) as well as more water resistant products. You will also find all kinds of thickeners in "marine grease", Alu, Calcium, Lithium etc, barium soap can also be used as thickener.
Many greases and oils targeting the hobby market, has no data sheets available, but claims to be full of wonder compounds. This is just to prevent the customers to discover that it's just a basic oil. I would never buy an oil product,like for an engine that comes without data sheet, too risky if you have paid 20.000 $ for your engine!.
For fishing reels I use a cheap product made for military trucks and stuff, it has rust inhibitors, essential to modern car products because we use
salt on the roads in winter.
why not just use plain fishing reel oil and grease? I use abu garcia reels so I use garcia oil and grease. I fish fresh water and do not have any problems
because there is better stuff out there. You get what you pay for!
Quote from: bdoc on December 27, 2011, 03:15:10 AM
I fish fresh water and do not have any problems
That's why it is not necessary to use grease with salt inhibitors. Dominick
I'm not so sure "you get what you pay for" is always true anymore, I tend to do what Killerbug does and do a bit in investigating before I spend my money.imho
That and past exprience plays a part also.
But like bdoc, I only fish fresh water so my needs are different than someone in the salt.
Al
Quote from: Pescachaser on December 27, 2011, 07:27:54 PM
Quote from: bdoc on December 27, 2011, 03:15:10 AM
I fish fresh water and do not have any problems
That's why it is not necessary to use grease with salt inhibitors. Dominick
Acidic freshwater, combined with certain types of algae, can be more corrosive than salt-water. It's not a black and white thing. If you take a look at my Okuma Tutorial, I posted a good example of how corrosive some kinds of fresh water environment can be.
Quote from: alantani on September 15, 2010, 07:25:22 PM
greases and oils - an update (9/14/2010)
Quote
(Alan's quote)so right now it's yamaha marine all purpose blue grease for all the non-exposed metal surfaces, cal's drag grease for carbon fiber drag washer, corrosion x for a general purpose low speed oil (bearings, levelwinds, handles), and tsi 301 for high speed bearings and levelwinds.
As a newcomer to the site I have found it loaded with great information. Having read every post on tools, lubricants, Yamaha grease and more I have learned a lot, but as a primarliy small spinner user, I have one open question. What grease do you recommend for use inside small spinners, like Shimano Stradics, Sustain and even some Penn? I saw your tutorial on Stradic 2500 where you referenced the Shimano Permalube grease, but I can't find it anywhere on the web. You also referenced trying the Boca Bearing grease.
So the question, what grease do you recommend for the workings of small to medium (2000 to 6000 models) spinners? Purely Saltwater usage. Getting ready to redo all the family's reels, about a dozen and would like to do a good job. And if the Shimano Permalube, any idea where to get it?
Quote
(Alan's quote)so right now it's yamaha marine all purpose blue grease for all the non-exposed metal surfaces, cal's drag grease for carbon fiber drag washer, corrosion x for a general purpose low speed oil (bearings, levelwinds, handles), and tsi 301 for high speed bearings and levelwinds.
As a newcomer to the site I have found it loaded with great information. Having read every post on tools, lubricants, Yamaha grease and more I have learned a lot, but as a primarliy small spinner user, I have one open question. What grease do you recommend for use inside small spinners, like Shimano Stradics, Sustain and even some Penn? I saw your tutorial on Stradic 2500 where you referenced the Shimano Permalube grease, but I can't find it anywhere on the web. You also referenced trying the Boca Bearing grease.
So the question, what grease do you recommend for the workings of small to medium (2000 to 6000 models) spinners? Purely Saltwater usage. Getting ready to redo all the family's reels, about a dozen and would like to do a good job. And if the Shimano Permalube, any idea where to get it?
[/quote]
All of the above are what i use in my US reel spinners and Tica spinners along with a carbontex washer upgrade i like to mix my yamaha grease with lloyds ad2000(basically the same as corrosion x)to give it a slightly thinner viscosity to coat the insides , this is my preferance but as you can see by the replys there are lots of choices
Since I already have both the Yamaha marine grease and the CorrosionX, I like the idea of created a somewhat thinner blend for my spinners. Any suggestions on mix ratio?
I would say about 5-1 yamaha grease - corrosion x i don't really measure it,mix it in a small glass jar and stir with a small stiff bristle brush i like the consistancy of soft butter just enough corrosion x to make the grease more spreadable but not runny.
I to mix Yamaha Grease and Corrosion X it is the best !!!!!!!!!
Quote from: HalBrown on December 03, 2011, 05:49:04 PM
I may have missed it, but what is the answer as to whether TSI 301 is suitable for ceramic bearings? I just ordered an 8oz can from the manufacturer in New Jersey. The lady who took my order told me they have been swamped by calls from fisherman.
Alan, am I correct in that you simply dip your bearings in it, let them drip dry for a few minutes and install the bearings? This is a great site by the way and I am glad I found it.
I recieved some 301 recently (thanks Alan) i cleaned out my ceramic bearings with a shot of ether and air and soaked them as suggested by Alan , after the soak they were given a low pressure blast of air and then reinstaled they certainly did not spin free any longer than clean dry bearings but the did spin the same and a lot less noisy,it was a big improvement over the rocket fuel tourniment oil which actually slowed the bearings and had to be reapplied after a few weeks.
I resently started using kano aerokroil oil. It is SUPER thin and stays is the bearings
Anyone have info on or used "Panda Tears" grease. Ran across this in BD tread on New Okuma Mak. page 3. Just curious.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pangamaster
where can you get this Panda Tears stuff? Is it better than Cal's grease?
Fishybuzz:
SouthPawCalico is the only guy who knows how to get it....blows Cals grease away.....
i dunno how anything could get much better than cals..... :-\
Can this be sprayed/dropped into places on the outside of the reels where the lubricant enclosed in the box would go, such as clicker, drag lever, strike button high speed/low speed button, etc etc.
yes, but i would not. the stuff is way to expensive to use like that. i would rather see you use aerosol corrosion x. it's alot cheaper.
Quote from: alantani on February 10, 2012, 06:07:32 AM
yes, but i would not. the stuff is way to expensive to use like that. i would rather see you use aerosol corrosion x. it's alot cheaper.
cheaper - that's what the "C" in "JC" stands for ;D Thanks, Alan!
jc, see you at the fred hall show?
Just found and bought some of this dirt cheap, so thought I would check it out.....
http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3121
Also comes in 14 Oz Cartridge
Anyone have experience with this lube?
Looks to be an Aluminum Complex Lube
Regards, Reid
That stuff doesn't hold up very well. high oil seperation rate, etc. I would use something else. Find something with a less than 1% washout and seperation rating. Alan and a lot of others like the yamaha marine grease, I had my outs with yamaha 30+ years ago and don't use their products. I found an anhydrous alum. based grease manuf. by citgo and sold under the mystic label at our local farm and fleet store that meets these criteria - mystik high performance marine grease - $4.00 per 3 3oz. tubes.
Thanks
The Mystik JT-6 High performance marine grease, looks to be anhydrous calcium thickener, not aluminum?
Am I looking at wrong product?
looks like the yamaha marine grease has a washout of 5% (With no < symbol)
which puts it well out of your criteria....
Can't seem to find the oil separation rate?
Regards, Reid
Yes, it is, don't know why I was thinking alum. It's supposed to not react badly with the more common lithium based products, couldn't find any info on how it does with plastics, guess i'll find out, no problems yet. I could not find any info (manuf, etc.) on the yamaha marine grease either.
Here's the MSDS on Yamaha marine grease
Regards, Reid
Yamaha marine grease is produced by Chemtool Incorporated, and on their homepage you will find more information on their aluminum thickened greases. To be honest, I don't think the thickener plays a major role in fishing reels for two reasons.
The washout test are mostly done at 141 F?
The different thickeners are almost the same in temperatures below +-190 F
Out of curiousity, why are you guys using grease guns. I understand Alan is servicing tons of reels and has bearing packer cups with grease nipples, but don't most of you just use your fingers to apply grease? I haven't found a need for a grease gun using a nipple or otherwise... Granted, I only own about 10 reels that need servicing maybe once per year, just want to make sure I am not missing out on anything
Erik
The bearing packer system will fully grease closed (or open) bearings. The force of the Gun will go into the Shields and push out the old grease and replace with new...
Works wonders.... & keeps the shields on....
Saves a lot of time and messing around...
Thats all I use the Gun for.
Everything else gets the brush or finger job...
Gottcha! I didn't know Alan was selling those bearing packers to others. I only live a couple miles from his area so maybe I need to put together an order and go say hi :D
if u have a vet store nearby, a mid sized syringe makes a great grease applicator........get a large gauge needle & dremel the end and you have a poor mans grease gun :)
Quote from: CoastieFlo on February 27, 2012, 10:09:11 AM
if u have a vet store nearby, a mid sized syringe makes a great grease applicator........get a large gauge needle & dremel the end and you have a poor mans grease gun :)
Yeah, I was going to try this. I'm a veterinarian, so I've got the basics. Another thing that I was thinking about trying was to take a syringe and remove the plunger, then drop a bearing into the bottom of it. Next put a dollop of grease in the barrel, re-insert the plunger and force the grease down and (hopefully) through the bearing.
To work, the bearing has to be only a bit smaller than the inner diameter of the syringe. I haven't done any test fits yet. I'm sure I'll end up buying one of Alan's bearing packers soon, but it was an idea.
That would probably work.....btw the local Ace and Napa both have needle adaptors for grease guns and all they are is a 18gauge needle pressed into a threaded nipple....so there u go lol.
Also this is good stuff, they make lube and also a grease. http://www.corrosion-control.com/media/cms/pdf/cbgspecs.pdf
It not only dissolves corrosion but stops it and is non-conductive so a reaction cannot occur. Here where I live is the largest beach dune riding area in the US and just about everyone uses it for their ATV's.
Oh, Corrosion Block! I have a can left over from when I owned boats (prior to children :D).
Good stuff.
Quote from: CoastieFlo on February 27, 2012, 10:09:11 AM
if u have a vet store nearby, a mid sized syringe makes a great grease applicator........get a large gauge needle & dremel the end and you have a poor mans grease gun :)
18ga needles are too small and don't work and make sure the syringe is the kind that you twist the needle on or it flies off.
jim nomura uses one of these!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/5/1_02_03_12_11_01_34.jpeg)
Quote from: alantani on March 03, 2012, 06:02:32 AM
jim nomura uses one of these!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/5/1_02_03_12_11_01_34.jpeg)
What is it? It looks like an old oil can.
Quote from: alantani on March 03, 2012, 06:02:32 AM
jim nomura uses one of these!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/5/1_02_03_12_11_01_34.jpeg)
I used these too, but wish I had a spring that pushes on the plunger where the grease is. I often have to push it manually. But, at least these will stand on the table.
So I went and got the bearing packers from Alan and they work awesome. Don't really care for using the needle attachment for greasing holes as it usually puts too much in there. When I try to put the screws in, it hydraulic locks. I actually put a dimple in one of my Avet frames when I bolted it back together cause it pushed the grease and stretched a thin part of the aluminum.
I find it much easier to dip a straight seal pick in the grease and swab it around inside the screw hole. Leaves the perfect amount of grease to fill in the threads.
Does this grease gun have a screw nozzle to accept Alan's bearing packing kit?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/5/1_02_03_12_11_01_34.jpeg)
Leo
You have to buy a female to female adapter. i got mine from Ace Hardware.
Hello, I'd like to say hi from Scotland :)
Just jumped on-board today, great site indeed ;D and IF I may indulge the experts.....
I have been reading about TSI-301 from links in this thread and I have to ask, is this not similar to MILTEC
http://www.militec1.com/
OK I have noticed a difference in the speed of the action of my Benelli shotgun since applying Miltec, the theory between TSI and MILTEC seems eerily similar [but with miltec you heat the metal first even a hairdrier will do] can anyone cast light on this?
And finally can you get hold of TSI in the UK??
thanks for taking the time to read this,
all the best
Mo.
I have MILTEC handy so I use it and it works well. I'm not sure how it compares to TSI 301.
Quote from: Keta on April 04, 2012, 04:13:57 PM
I have MILTEC handy so I use it and it works well. I'm not sure how it compares to TSI 301.
Wow! that was quick ;)
Do you "warm" the bearings too??
Mo.
Welcome to the site Mo.
D'oh.... Welcome aboard Mo.
Quote from: mojocvh on April 04, 2012, 04:19:23 PM
Do you "warm" the bearings too??
Most of my shop is not heated so I have to warm my grease gun and lube in the "office"/rod winding room before using it in the winter. I don't usualy warm up the bearings.
OK just tried a wee experiment here, stripped out a 6500 rocket [awaiting parts to mag] and cleaned, then heated and lubed the bearing with miltec, back in oven [gas mk4!] till "warm" out, re lubed and refitted once cool, it's now matching my very quick, original green mag elite just about, sooo miltec seems to do the trick. Of course the important part is longevity so here's hoping once I get it magged I'll report back in time.
cheers for now and all the best
Mo.
no there's an idea. gently warm a grease so that if flows, drop a bearing in, let it cool and then pluck it out of the semi-solid grease. now the bearing is all nice and packed with grease! you guys are brilliant!
Alan, I can't take any responsibility for that warming idea, it's part of the instructions for applying miltec.
What you are meant to do initially is apply the miltec as reqd, reassemble, shoot weapon until "hot" strip, clean, reapply miltec shoot again. Heat apparently allows it molecular whatever to happen quicker and last longer.
However, being a Scot and the price of ammunition being what it is these days, the block goes into the oven at 60C and the rest gets warmed with a hairdrier, surprisingly effective too!
cheers
Mo.
:P
how much grease do you need to put on gears ???
Just brush a light coat is sufficient. If you put too much, you will notice that the grease is pushed away and the excess ends up in your sideplates...which will attract dirt, salt, etc.
Quote from: Bryan Young on April 16, 2012, 05:23:08 AM
Just brush a light coat is sufficient. If you put too much, you will notice that the grease is pushed away and the excess ends up in your sideplates...which will attract dirt, salt, etc.
tHANKS BRYAN
I got this one from my dad. Its super tech marine grease, they come in three ounce cartridges and a three pack is 3 bucks, its the blue kind, works great and is cheap also comes with the smaller cartridges.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Marine-Grease-14-oz/16928008
The one in the link is the 14 ounce but just so you get a picture of it.
Quote from: Biggameaddict on May 02, 2012, 05:49:45 PM
I got this one from my dad. Its super tech marine grease, they come in three ounce cartridges and a three pack is 3 bucks, its the blue kind, works great and is cheap also comes with the smaller cartridges.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Marine-Grease-14-oz/16928008
The one in the link is the 14 ounce but just so you get a picture of it.
Only problem is it turns black over time, and i found it seperates easily. Used it on a few reels, and it felt great, but oil kept leaking out from it, and it's not even hot out yet. I'd stick with the Yamaha/Evinrude for marine grease.
JMHO
Geoff
Quote from: flyforfish21 on May 03, 2012, 01:46:32 PM
Quote from: Biggameaddict on May 02, 2012, 05:49:45 PM
I got this one from my dad. Its super tech marine grease, they come in three ounce cartridges and a three pack is 3 bucks, its the blue kind, works great and is cheap also comes with the smaller cartridges.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Marine-Grease-14-oz/16928008
The one in the link is the 14 ounce but just so you get a picture of it.
Only problem is it turns black over time, and i found it seperates easily. Used it on a few reels, and it felt great, but oil kept leaking out from it, and it's not even hot out yet. I'd stick with the Yamaha/Evinrude for marine grease.
JMHO
Geoff
Man i love this site, almost succomed to the temptation to use walmart crap!
Quote from: alantani on April 04, 2012, 11:10:58 PM
no there's an idea. gently warm a grease so that if flows, drop a bearing in, let it cool and then pluck it out of the semi-solid grease. now the bearing is all nice and packed with grease! you guys are brilliant!
That truly is a great Idea.
Except if the grease were flamible!
A fellow UK poster sent me this link to a USA made blue grease now available over here. It is a quarter the price of Penn Technical Grease and may be even better value in the US. Thanks Ron. ;)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Oils-NEW-Specialised-Marine-Grease-/250797602211?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item3a64b3b5a3#ht_218
this might be the light blue wheel bearing grease. wheel bearing grease for boat trailers is really tacky and just horrible to work with.
Quote from: alantani on December 03, 2011, 07:58:16 PM
i'm actually not sure about ceramics and tsi 301/321. i always use stainless steel bearings, never ceramics. (ok, i'm an old fuddy dutty, but i like stainless.) i clean them with carb cleaner and a gentle amount of compressed air. the goal is to get these to spin for 10-15 seconds when then are dry as a bone. then i know for sure that they're clean. THEN i dip them in tsi 301 and set them down on a clean rag long enough to get to the next bearing. then they are all installled and we're good.
again, credit goes to jim nomura for finding this stuff. otherwise i'd be back to corrosion x. ;D
So you dip one bearing in tsi 301 and stack the rest on top of eachother and placenit on a clean rag then let the 301 drain down?
i am a newbie to servicing my own reels but trying to learn. I appreciate the info this site and members provide. My light spinners and baitcasters are fished inshore in salt/brackish water from a boat where sand is not an issue. I've had very good results using corrosion block liquid for everything in the marine environment for years. I am considering using cal's for drags, corrosion block grease for gears, and corrosion block liquid where needed including bearings. Is this a bad plan? Is corrosion block liquid to thick a lube (not viscous enough) for bearings?
thanks in advance for advice!
you are already ahead of the game by servicing your reels on a regular basis. i should point out that wew are concerned about long term corrosion resistance in all of these products because we will be servicing these reels and they will have to last for a year or more. that's why we are so picky. if you are going to service your own gear on a regular basis, you can use nearly anything.
TG'S rocket fuel tournament or quantum hot sauce?
plan on getting my old bearing clean and using one of these oil, i heard the tg fuel is better.
I tried the Hot Sauce Grease & found it to thick. I just used it till it ran out on non moving parts. I use Penn Grease because I have it & Never Seize on screws because I have 2-3 cans of it. TSI 301 & 321 on Bearing.
Hi,
I went to the TSI 301 website and tried to enter the store but was unable to do so. How/where may I purchase some of the oil?
I used the Phone. Sometimes it works better than the internet.
American Gas & Chemical Co. Ltm
220 Pegasus Ave
Northvale, N.J. 07647
1-201-767-7300
amgas.com
This info came off the invoice they sent me.
Thanks for the info. Will try the phone #.
They even took my CC on the phone
Hello, Alan. Was wondering if I could buy some Tsi 301 and Tsi 321 from you because the website says they do not ship to Hawaii? Or maybe there is another dealer I could order from? Thanks for any info.
not sure why not. i will have to order some. i am down to my last can. please send me an e-mail with your shipping into and i will mail it out. alan
Thanks for the reply. Just sent an email.
i called the them in new jersey, and of course no one answered! gotta wait until after the hurricaine passes.
I just received my order of 301 and 321 today. Must have shipped before the storm.
Hi Alan. Have you ever tried corrosion block grease? A schoolmate of mine is the distributor of this product in Hawaii. Gave me a tube and I have not had a problem with it yet. I know you do a lot more reels than I do so just wondering your professional opinion. ;D
Quote from: Night Prowler on November 02, 2012, 05:30:04 AM
Hi Alan. Have you ever tried corrosion block grease? A schoolmate of mine is the distributor of this product in Hawaii. Gave me a tube and I have not had a problem with it yet. I know you do a lot more reels than I do so just wondering your professional opinion. ;D
Aloha Nighty,
E komo mai.
Corrosion Block products are good stuff. They have been around a long time and around salt water applications. I'm sure it's good.
There are many factors in selecting a good marine grease...availability, recommendation, experience,... if you haven't had any issues, then continue to do what you do. That's experience talking.
Bryan
I have extensively used the Corrosion Block spray (comes out as a blue foam at first). Great stuff!
Hi Alan
I would like to ask you an advice on how to slow the wear on aluminum gears and worm shaft. I have seen many of your posts which directs to blue marine grease. I have used it but still had bad wear on some parts of a reel.
I am only using Coffee grinders - long casting type - Daiwa Basia Surf . Fishing at Cape Town and at cost of Namibia
With heavy surf fishing - long distance, heavy sinkers, bigger fish - gears , worm shaft worn to extend that reel became so wobbly and that is despite the service before every trip I have done. I know these reels are not so durable, parts are difficult to get and very costly - so I given up on them.
I have just now ordered new Shimano Aero Technium 10000 MX-B .
I know that most of internal rotating parts are made out of soft materials. I was thinking of using Moly 60 mixed with Air Filter oil to prevent scorching of the graphite and added water resistance with more stickiness too. Any advice how to prolong the parts of that new reel as it is very expensive. Is there anything can do better then a blue grease. I even bought Ceratec from Liqui Moly thinking to mix with grease.
Be inspired, here you will find tons of information on lubricants.
http://www.axelch.com/composite-73.htm
those soft aluminum gears are very quiet, but they just don't last.
Hi Everybody
I think I found ultimate grease for aluminum gears and also for oscillating mechanism and shaft. I found it after speaking with many lubricant specialist.
I tested over the weekend on the brand new Shimano Ultegra 14 000 Ci14. This "made in Malaysia" Shimano had some cheap lithium grease inside. Reel has most of rotating parts made out of aluminum , only pinon gear is made out of brass. To remove that grease I used dish wash liquid with warm water - all removed in no time. Applied this grey extremely sticky and stretchy grease on all rotating parts except to bearings where I used Reel X.
I started to test the reel by spinning very fast for good 15 min , then opened reel. Grease did not spray anywhere and it stayed on parts lubricated but concentrated more of few places due to centrifugal force . Main gear and pinion had nice amount of grease still on it . So I was impressed with results and then opted to do something more. I sprayed some water inside the reel throw a lubricating hole , than start cranking , felt a bit looser resistance of the grease but grease friction returned after more cranking , run it for few more minutes and then opened the reel. Some of a grease got off but lots stayed on, while water did not mix with grease as grease did not change color.
After messy job I decided to wash all that grease. Dish wash liquid and hot water done nothing to this grease , it just wont get off this way. Then I tried engine cleaner (strong soap), no luck just smudges around. This Grease is so resistive to detergents. Then I managed to clean it by using benzine and lots of it.
I am sure this grease is by far more superior to any marine grease , but working with it is very messy.
It is very difficult to wash the hands and work table. While lubricating reel it stretches as far as 10 cm making a mess all around. So I assume this grease would not find a way to many doors of people who services the reels as for the job. But for enthusiast who want his reel to last longer, I am sure it is one of the best.
I will do further testing this December when I put this reel to some heavy surf fishing and probably some boat fishing too. This reel is of weak nature and it is ideal to see how lubricant can maybe change that statement.
In a later stage I will compare this grease with Quantum HoT Sauce grease.
Grease is South African made buy a lubricant guru from SOS OIL .
See specs below:
Point Open Gear Universal G
An excellent adhesive, high-tech lubricant, which is based on the newest technology. This product contains a synergistic combination of white and black solid lubricants for extreme application, e.g. boundary lubrication. It also has chemical EP (extreme pressure) additives which in combination with the solid lubricants give you a hydro elastic lubricating film which anchors itself to the metal surface thus eliminating wear, tear and pitting. OPEN GEAR UNIVERSAL G has very good water resistance behavior even in seawater and at higher temperatures.
What do you guys think out Oust Met Oil? Thats what I've been currently using on all my reels. I use my reels for mostly salt water. I've also tried shimano oil and daiwa since it came with some of my reels.
alot of these products work just fine. the only thing i balk at is the "$5 an ounce" price tag that seems to be the going rate. if you haven't tried TSI 301, it is the one product that i see that is really worth the extra price beyond a bottle of basic corrosion x.
Oic, thats the only oil I can get besides reel x and corrosion x around my area. I havent really seen any tsi 301 around here. Do you guys know where I can get them for a good price? I've read alot of good reviews about the oil.
http://www.tsi301.com/
Thanks....Do you think its worth it comparted to Oust met oil? Or should I just use all my Oust met oil before purchasing. I've serviced all 13 of of my reels and have more than 3/4 left. I just use a drop or 2 on every spool bearing.
Quote from: Reelz on December 01, 2012, 09:18:58 AM
Thanks....Do you think its worth it comparted to Oust met oil? Or should I just use all my Oust met oil before purchasing. I've serviced all 13 of of my reels and have more than 3/4 left. I just use a drop or 2 on every spool bearing.
Oust met oil is a very lite oil GREAT for SSteel and Ceramic bearings, downside it only lasts a week or so before U have to relube where as TSI 301 will last for months in SSteel bearings.
Gotcha.....Thanks
Hi folks
Just wondering if castrol boating grease would be an adequate alternative to the Yamaha blue marine grease for larger reels and bearings?
This grease is also blue in colour and I assume its marine grade
Cheers
It's lithium complex based if that means anything
not sure. it's more a matter of what you like working with.
Thanks alan
I guess it can't hurt
I hope :)
you'll be fine. i've stuck with yamaha marine for so long because i'm old and changes are hard for me...... :'(
My understanding is that Lithium based is water resistant while Calcium based is water proof. I believe
the original Yamalube used a Calcium complex. The new Yamalube does not mention it's ingredients.
Jim N.
Just want to share what I found on the net;
http://www.dowcorning.com/content/molykote/tacky.aspx?wt.svl=molykote_g1502fm_banner_hor_EN
If this would be too tacky for gears then maybe it would be good for coating the insides of the reel case. They're offering a free sample kit so I'll try it out.
? --- Has anyone used the Inox products? Compared them with Tsi 301? Corrosion X? Etc?
quote author=alantani link=topic=50.msg4507#msg4507 date=1284578783]
Quote
Grease
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan,
I have read through your thread on greases and oils. I am west coast rep for a product called Inox. Inox was developed in Australia as a anti-corrosion, anti-moisture protective penetrating lubricant for the corrosive elements of the salt mines over 23 years ago.
We have both greases and oils along with a battery conditioner that will reverse the sulphation process which is what kills the battery.
Our products contain no Acid, Silicon, Kerosene or Dieselene. Inox will not dry out, become gooey or sticky or wash off with water. Inox contains no petro-chemicals which makes them non-hyrdoscopic. Petroleum based product draw moisture to them as the base evaporates. Our product base is a mix of high grade machine oils. We add to them to modifiy our product for different applications. Sometimes adding high grade Teflon or lanolin for add lubrication or protection.
Our products are non-toxic. Five off our best selling products are food grade with a Kosher certification. Some off our customers included include NASA, Kennedy Space Center, Fedex, Harley Davidson and Avet.
Our products are available in some tackle shops with more to come. Anglers Choice, Last Chance and Point Loma Tackle. We currently have non-paid write ups in Offshore Angler and Marlin Magazine.
I would like to send you some samples and some information about the different uses of our products. Please visit our websites for other information about Inox Products.
johnjordan@inoxlube.com
(951) 551-0851 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting (951) 551-0851 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
__________________
GO CLEAN! GO GREEN! GO INOX!
http://www.inoxlube.com
[/quote]
i've tried inox red grease and it's fine!
it is really, really hard to compare lubricants in systematic and objective way. for greases, if you spread a thin layer on a surface, the protection should be adequate. and this is for almost any grease. some are just really unpleasant to work with. the wheel bearing greases come to mind. they are incredibly sticky. most of the guys that work with me absolutely hate working with them. i like the dark blue greases in particular because they are easy to work with and stay blue for ever. you can crack open a reel even years after you service it and know that you've worked on that reel before.
oils are another matter. the thicker something is, the longer is hangs around. the thinner something is, the better it spins. remember that xtreme teflon lube we were working with before? spools would spin like crazy. it was incredible stuff. the problem was that that the reels would slow down after a couple of weeks. what about corrosion x or reel x? it would last 6 months, maybe a year, sometimes more. spin times were ok. then jim nomura found tsi 301. spools would spin like crazy, almost as good as that dry teflon lube. and i have some reels that still spin after 4 years. next,i'm going to try tsi 321, which is the pure lubricant with none of the solvent. we will see how this stuff works.
through out all of these, we are still working mostly blind. the problem is that do not know exactly what is in these products. we also need to have a reliable testing model so that these different lubes can be evaluated on an objective basis. until we have this, we simply have to go by experience. so we have cal's grease for drag washers, yamaha blue marine grease for all non-exposed metal surfaces, corrosion x as a general all purpose lube for places where an oil is required, tsi 301 for bearings and levelwind assemblies where you need a spool to really spin. and lastly, i'm going to start using tsi 321, even though it's thicker, because it might be easier to work with (and to ship overseas!!!!).
and that, jc wileman, is where i'm at! not much, huh ...... :-\
hi jc wileman
just a thought.if you live in the usa why use inox?
in australia inox is great
cals is $64 a small tub
tsi301 is close to $40 a small can
i dont know what the other stuff costs
ive used cals and mx8(inox)and couldnt tell the difference
tub of mx8 is $16aud
stick to what alan tells you.
its harder for us downunder. and dearer cheers
I have used fluid film on my bro's jet ski for 2 years and it has worked nicely. I will be trying f.f. on my chromed over spools before putting on my wire line. I've used Boeshield, Corrosion X, amongst many other lubes starting with WD-40 (prior to using this site.) It works great on the jet ski engine to displace water, prevent corrosion, and it stays in place for a long time (all season if you let it.)
Here's the link...http://www.kellsportproducts.com/AS&NAS.html
Another product I'd like to bring to your attention is CRC freeze-off super penetrant (watch your fingers-frost bite!)
I just ordered a can, so I can't vouch for it, but reviews say it works well. I'm hoping it may help free up some pinions, screws, and bushings. I'll keep yas posted on my findings.
Here's the link...http://www.crcindustries.com/files/Freeze-Off%20Brochure.pdf
Lastly, I used that canned air stuff upside down with the straw(careful frost-bite) on a trim ring that wouldn't budge. I didn't wanna wait to put it in the freezer, so I had at it with my can of air and thin knife. In two easy prys it was off with no mess at all.)
(I have no affiliation what-so-ever with ANYONE!)
Hope I help someone before they pull all of their hair out ;)
Dom
Fluid film is an excellent product. I wipe down all my reel rods guns etc with it and it works great.
I am interested if you think TS301 and Fluid Film are comparable in terms of effectiveness when lubricating reel bearings?
Does it also works in saltwater?
It is fantastic in salt water.
I wouldn't put it in my bearings because it does seem to attract particles of whatever comes near it.
Those particles wouldn't effect something like a hinge but bearings are way more precise.
I think you guys will really like the stuff
All the best
Dom
;D
Quote from: alantani on February 05, 2013, 06:05:04 AM
i've tried inox red grease and it's fine!
it is really, really hard to compare lubricants in systematic and objective way. for greases, if you spread a thin layer on a surface, the protection should be adequate. and this is for almost any grease. some are just really unpleasant to work with. the wheel bearing greases come to mind. they are incredibly sticky. most of the guys that work with me absolutely hate working with them. i like the dark blue greases in particular because they are easy to work with and stay blue for ever. you can crack open a reel even years after you service it and know that you've worked on that reel before.
oils are another matter. the thicker something is, the longer is hangs around. the thinner something is, the better it spins. remember that xtreme teflon lube we were working with before? spools would spin like crazy. it was incredible stuff. the problem was that that the reels would slow down after a couple of weeks. what about corrosion x or reel x? it would last 6 months, maybe a year, sometimes more. spin times were ok. then jim nomura found tsi 301. spools would spin like crazy, almost as good as that dry teflon lube. and i have some reels that still spin after 4 years. next,i'm going to try tsi 321, which is the pure lubricant with none of the solvent. we will see how this stuff works.
through out all of these, we are still working mostly blind. the problem is that do not know exactly what is in these products. we also need to have a reliable testing model so that these different lubes can be evaluated on an objective basis. until we have this, we simply have to go by experience. so we have cal's grease for drag washers, yamaha blue marine grease for all non-exposed metal surfaces, corrosion x as a general all purpose lube for places where an oil is required, tsi 301 for bearings and levelwind assemblies where you need a spool to really spin. and lastly, i'm going to start using tsi 321, even though it's thicker, because it might be easier to work with (and to ship overseas!!!!).
and that, jc wileman, is where i'm at! not much, huh ...... :-\
Just got back from the guys at tsi. I sent them a mail asking if there were any Norwegian carriers of the product. Actually spoke to a friend of mine who is in the military and the norwegian military use tsi301 and 321 for their guns and equipment, same as a lot of police dept. in the states.
Well, unfourtanetly Alan sent me a can of this wonderful oil but the I lost three quarters by leaving the can accidentally open for a night, so now I am empty...
Nick Armendinger sent me a very nice mail regarding the oil. unfourtanetly there is not a listed store in Norway that carries tsi products so I have to get it from someone who has it. He said he could ship me a can but the shipping and handle is 25$+15$ for the 8oz can. leaving me at a total of 40USD and expected Toll, vat from customs approx. 17$ close to 60$ for an 8 oz can is a bit much, can anyone help me out here? anybody know a website that has a cheaper option for the tsi301?
either way hope to hear back from you guys. I am copying the mail for you to read. MAybe it's already out there but what the heck.
EMAIL:
Dear Mr. Hafnor,
Thank you for your continued use of our products and your recent e-mail. As long as you order the bulk 301 (8oz, 16oz can) instead of aerosol (considered a restricted article for air shipment) we should be able to ship with no problems. We do accept Visa, Mastercard, Discover or American Express payments. Please note that there is a $25.00 handling charge for preparation of export documentation on all orders. The main difference between 301 and 321 is that the 321 is the pure lubricant while 301 has a solvent component added to help remove dirt, rust, carbon builup, etc. So you might use 301 to periodically clean your reels and 321 for regular lubrication but 301 will also lubricate as well. I have attached a price list as well as a data sheet on our product. Hopefully, this information helps you.
Best Regards,
Nick Armendinger

(http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab256/hafnor/tsipricelisting_zps975acaf1.png)
Let's wait until Alan gets back. I think he has sent some overseas before.
yes, Alan sent me last time. I can check with him regarding shipping. :)
Mr Tani i want your feedback about this product , i used this in my jobs and work perfect never dries , we used this with bolts & nut in chilled water in industial a/c systems, my experience i remove nuts with more 10 years very easy, let me know
Share This Product
Anti Seize Compound, Marine Grade, 8-Oz. Brush Top Can, Size/Net Weight 8 oz, Temp Range -20 to 2400 F, Specific Gravity 1.27, Contains 3% VOC, Film Type Paste, Protects Assemblies that are Exposed to Fresh and Salt Water, Offers Water Wash-out Resistance and Excellent Lubricity, Works Well in High Humidity Conditions, For Use on Splines, Bushings, Gears and Chains, K Value 0.18, Standards ABS
They even make Never Seize in Copper Blend. I also worked AC & Heating
Cant go past INOX, their entire range is first class for Marine and anywhere where extreme or climatic and high humidity conditions prevail.
how about i try shipping you a bottle of tsi 321 this time?
I have read so much good stuff about Corrosion X that I have decided to get some.
I have tracked it down here in Australia (I think)?.
http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73_76&products_id=818 (http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73_76&products_id=818)
Is this the same stuff that you use for servicing fishing reels?
Thanks,
Brett.
yes, that's it, but we pay $17 here i the US. we visited australia last year and i know the prices are high, but a $40 price for corrosion x is highway robbery! :-\
Thanks Alan,
Shopping around but it is hard to find cheap freight from the US.
As expensive as it is, it still may be the cheapest option for Australia.
As no supplier will ship TSI301 to the UK I "made" my own. Starting with TSI321 (which can be shipped overseas from Pilkguns in the US) I needed a solvent. After a few trials I settled on IPA (isopropyl alcohol) 99.9% not rubbing alcohol!!. 8 parts IPA to 2 parts TS321 by weight or volume it doesn't matter. The IPA does not materially alter the oil it just dilutes it and quickly evaporates. It is also completely safe with all common plastics (the orginal solvent is not). Healthwise it is also safer than the original solvent which can no longer be purchased in the UK. Hope this helps someone.
hi tiddler
its obvious you are a man of many talents(andros)and now this.
are you a rocket scientist by any chance ;D
cheers
No ;D I just have to much time on my hands and I like things to work properly. Being a retired engineer helps in that respect ;)
Having an unnatural obsession for fishing tackle doesn't help ;D
you're going to get along just fine here.... ;D
Question about Cal's Purple...
I'm new to the site and sorry if I'm asking an already answered question, but I looked through the forum and haven't found a specific answer to this. I'm interested in trying Cal's grease and noticed the description of Cal's purple being suitable for colder climates and "smaller" reels. I'm a bass guy in Kentucky (Cold winters most of the time and HOT summers) and I mostly use Shimano Curados. Would the Cal's purple be okay or should I go for the Cal's Universal (tan)?
Xtreme Reel + lube
Alan, I see you seem to be a fan. Somewhere I read a review where a guy said the awesome long distance casting effects only lasted for about an hour after he used it. I see where you and a few others have been impressed with the free spool time. Have you personally noticed this or had any complaints about the spin time decreasing over time?
not anymore. gave up on it. it was great for a few weeks, then slowed down. tsi 301 was found by jim nomura and it seems to work the best and the longest. my reels are still spinning after 2-3 years.
Just a few questions for beginners like myself
1-Corrosion X or Corrosion X-HD??, aerosol or trigger??
2-Cal's grease(gold sticker on 1-oz container cap) or Cal's grease purple(silver & purple sticker)??
links:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cals-Universal-Reel-and-Star-Drag-Grease-1-oz-/281125778737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417466f531
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cals-Universal-Reel-and-Star-Drag-Grease-1-oz-Purple-/271131628046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f20b4520e
Thanks in advance
Quote from: Inspiro on July 24, 2013, 08:55:04 AM
Just a few questions for beginners like myself
1-Corrosion X or Corrosion X-HD??, aerosol or trigger??
2-Cal's grease(gold sticker on 1-oz container cap) or Cal's grease purple(silver & purple sticker)??
links:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cals-Universal-Reel-and-Star-Drag-Grease-1-oz-/281125778737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417466f531
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cals-Universal-Reel-and-Star-Drag-Grease-1-oz-Purple-/271131628046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f20b4520e
Thanks in advance
I use the standard Corrosion X and the purple Cal's it less viscous and for cold temperature applications.
has anybody ever used Marvel Mystery Oil in the lubrication of their fishing reels?
This goes to the question about Cal's colored grease.
I have both... the tan is more universal. I've used the tan is sub freezing conditions many of times without any problems. You could always get both and change it with the seasons to feel better, but you're fine with just tan.
Dom
Hello, I found your forum while looking for a recommendation grease for my reel.
I did not think that there is such a forum!
I read at the forum and saw some recommendations, my problem is that I have no where to purchase.
I have a new Shimano Stradic CI4+ 2500FA spinning reel, which is my first Shimano reel.
I did not know whether I need the internal gear grease, oil bearings, and drag grease, or do not need to grease the inner gear and just dripping oil through the service hole.
In addition, most of my fishing is in saltwater when temperatures are between 15 ° C in winter to 35 ° C in summer.
And now the big problem, the only place I can buy It is through eBay, do you have a recommendation of suitable materials I could find on eBay?
for an oil, go with tsi 321
http://detectorbuy.com/TSI-301-321-Lubricants_c2.htm
reel x works fine as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ReelX-Reel-Lube-1-oz-Bottle-By-CorrosionX-/281125778363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item417466f3bb
for a grease. anything works, but i use yamaha marine grease
http://www.partspak.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=177419&gclid=CP3X5_PD37kCFcd_QgodpXwAlQ
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-MARINE-GREASE-14-1-OUNCE-ACC-GREAS-14-CT-/251216425910?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7daa73b6
why only ebay?
Since this is the only website that send to Israel.
The Yamaha marine grease, it's all round/inner gear/drag?
no, you can't use a hydrocarbon-based grease on drag washers. you need cal's grease. go to mysticparts.com. they have tsi 321 (preferred), reel x, cal's drag grease and an all-purpose blue penn grease and they MIGHT be able to ship all of that to israel. if not, let me know........ :-\
Something very strange, if I'm looking for the grease on eBay myself, I can not find it at all. But you did find ...
Israel is not listed in mysticparts.com, but Iraq listed :)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
If i will lubricate a fresh water hook with TSI 321, it will help against corrosion for 3 hours of using in salt water?
Or the TSI 321 dropped quickly off the hook and will not help?
has anybody used LSD, not the hallucinogenic drug, limited slip differential oil for CF washers? if no one i'll be the first to find out if it works. i'll be testing the Red Line Synthetic 80W140 Gear Oil. results will probably in dec. stay tuned...
I do know LSD Spray worked great on Dampers in large HVAC units. It kept them free & moving for a few months in a Salt Air of the East River in NYC
Mike
While we are talking about this, what exactly is the difference between drag grease and any other grease? I know we all say to use cals or a similar "drag" grease for drags, but why and what makes the cals suitable? Is it the fact that it's a synthetic? if so, wouldn't any synthetic also work well for drags then?
Drag grease for Carbon Fiber drags has teflon as it's primary lubricant. It increases smoothness and slightly reduces the coefficient of friction, it will provide some protection but nothing like marine grease which is what you use on your auto or engine.
Ron
my 2 cents composition...
I heard of these products that are not that known .
Cyclo W4U - prenatally out performed the Corrosion X and also much cheaper. Another one is Brake -Away penetrating oil C10 from same company Cyclo . http://www.cyclo.com/C330.html
Anybody tried those maybe ?
Not sure how much this video is relevant - your opinions please .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBy_kFO3iNI
Regarding Drag grease , I used these two as alternative and liked the ROCOL Food Lube Multi Paste - food grade as it is food grade and you can get it in spray version. Other one was Molykote DX paste. They all work
great on drag washers and they have high temperature resistance. Rocol one is extremely resistive to water spray and wash.
Can Yamaha Marine Grease be used on lighter freshwater spinning gear or is it too heavy?
Regarding Drag grease , I used these two as alternative and liked the ROCOL Food Lube Multi Paste - food grade as it is food grade and you can get it in spray version. Other one was Molykote DX paste. They all work great on drag washers and they have high temperature resistance. Rocol one is extremely resistive to water spray and wash.
I looked on the ROCOL website for purchase and also did a general search but it doesn't seem like it's available in the US. Where did you purchase it?
For bearings on Shimano TLD's, Tiagra's, and the like, I have been using Corrosion X. I want to try the TSI stuff, should I be using TSI301 or 321? So much info here that my little brain get's confused ;D
Cheers,
hi threadfin
if you live in usa all you need is cal,s grease and tsi301, they are the best
put cals on everything and tsi301 on your spool bearings and level wind
for better freespool.
if you live some where else you can try what other
folks on here do.shimano,penn,inox,etc;
i dont think there are two many that can tell the difference
but you must use something to prevent corrosion
hope this helps cheers
Quote from: threadfin on November 20, 2013, 10:51:27 AM
For bearings on Shimano TLD's, Tiagra's, and the like, I have been using Corrosion X. I want to try the TSI stuff, should I be using TSI301 or 321? So much info here that my little brain get's confused ;D
Cheers,
I see TSI 301 as more for a cleaner and lubrication and 321 for lube only. I clean my bearings before I lube them so I went with the 321. The solvent in the 301 evaporates away leaving the 321 behind.
301 is just one part 321 with 8 parts "degreasing solvent" added so the synthetic ester can make physical contact with clean the bare metal.
When treating bearings it is a good idea to use the 301 solvent to clean residual lubricant traces.
You can make your own 301 by adding 8 parts lighter fluid to the 321.
It is a good idea to treat all bearings with 301 to completely seal the metal from salt water attack, but especially those that are not going to be filled with grease.
I treat spool bearings with "301", then add a drop of Reel-X for insurance.
~
Thanks for the explanation guys. Already using Cal's on drags and Yamaha Lube on frame bearings.
Cheers,
Quote from: amoebasurgeon on November 01, 2013, 04:22:28 PM
Can Yamaha Marine Grease be used on lighter freshwater spinning gear or is it too heavy?
Regarding Drag grease , I used these two as alternative and liked the ROCOL Food Lube Multi Paste - food grade as it is food grade and you can get it in spray version. Other one was Molykote DX paste. They all work great on drag washers and they have high temperature resistance. Rocol one is extremely resistive to water spray and wash.
I looked on the ROCOL website for purchase and also did a general search but it doesn't seem like it's available in the US. Where did you purchase it?
Do you think any cooking spray will work? Sounds like i have to test and report back now
Well, there's.food grade petroleum products such as mineral oil (liquid paraffin in the Queen's English), and then there are cooking sprays which are made from food products like corn oil. The latter would go rancid very quickly inside of a reel.
There are forum members with a much better understand of chemistry than mine, and I'm sure they could explain what happens on a molecular level. I'm sure it wouldn't be good.
Quote from: floating doc on November 22, 2013, 04:34:06 PM
Well, there's.food grade petroleum products such as mineral oil (liquid paraffin in the Queen's English), and then there are cooking sprays which are made from food products like corn oil. The latter would go rancid very quickly inside of a reel.
There are forum members with a much better understand of chemistry than mine, and I'm sure they could explain what happens on a molecular level. I'm sure it wouldn't be good.
As a line cook, some people I have worked with used cooking spray to lube the rails on potato cutters and various slicers; good for about three slices then everything gets gummed up. If it's left on until the next day, it's even worse. I'd hate to see what it would do to reel bearings.
Quote from: amoebasurgeon on November 01, 2013, 04:22:28 PM
Can Yamaha Marine Grease be used on lighter freshwater spinning gear or is it too heavy?
It's pretty darn heavy and on real small reels the increase in handle effort is noticeable. Just thin it with Corrosion-X and it lightens up and is fine. You can also go the "Alto Mare" route and cut Valvoline Red 1:2 with hydraulic brake fluid. Same idea.
best
Hi Alan / Guys,
There is a lot of info to sort through in this forum. Alan, can you tell me what lubes I should be using. Most of my reels are Shimano Sustains. What oil and what grease for gears and drags?
I am not interested in getting super technical and would like to make this easy. I live in a moderate climate and fish both fresh and salt water. I have no big game or 2 speed reels etc.
On the grease, If Cal's tan grease is really "the only reel grease I will ever have to buy again" for gears, drags etc, then that makes it easy. I want to make this simple and easy.
Thanks much!
if i may butt in, I use Cal's entirely on everything except on bearings... ;) :)
And what on bearings?
it seems the consensus here is;
spool bearings TSI 301 to clean and lube or TSI 321 if you have another solution to clean your bearings. a cheaper alternative is SINGER oil but maintenance is higher in comparison with TSI
yamaha blue grease or any marine grease on non-spool bearings, except lithium based because i used it and was not too happy with it...
Soooo....... Can I use 301/321 and Cal's Tan to lube ALL parts including all bearings and drags?
FYI, my reels are mostly small, like Redfish / Specs sized spinners and a few larger bait casters for Rock / Stripers and other in shore fish.
tsi 301 or tsi 321 on bearings, corrosion x for all other parts that need oil, cal's grease on drags, yamaha grease on all other surfaces and inside non-spool bearings.
Quote from: tperk100 on April 03, 2014, 12:35:35 PM
Soooo....... Can I use 301/321 and Cal's Tan to lube ALL parts including all bearings and drags?
FYI, my reels are mostly small, like Redfish / Specs sized spinners and a few larger bait casters for Rock / Stripers and other in shore fish.
I prefer lubes that are not harmful to plastics(like parts, found in most smaller bait casters). This means avoiding TSI and other ester bases lubes, especially on IAR bearings.
I have discovered that Magnalube-G is a better drag grease than Call's, as it will not emulsified with water, and it makes the drag smoother.
Quote from: alantani on April 03, 2014, 05:20:20 PM
tsi 301 or tsi 321 on bearings, corrosion x for all other parts that need oil, cal's grease on drags, yamaha grease on all other surfaces and inside non-spool bearings.
Alan, can I substitute Cal's grease for the Yamaha?....just to make thing a little simpler.
If so, which Cal's would you recommend for my smaller reels?
Thanks much!!
you could, but i've found that teflon grease and pick up moisture. that's why i prefer yamaha grease as an all purpose grease.
Sounds like Cal's grease is the go. Who sells it in usa? Penn maybe? We've plenty of Yamaha places over here for their grease. Is it right that I read somewhere on this site that you use grease on HT100 drag washers?
smoothdrag.com
Is this for the drag discs only? Or can this be used on the level wind gear (shaft)?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_29_01_09_9_51_23_2.jpeg)
The only LUBE that goes on Drag Washers is Cal's Grease. You can use the other Extreme Reel on the rest of the reel. Grease the inside of the side plates to make water dispense faster.
Thank you for clarifying about what grease to use for the drag discs.
BUT IM VERY confused about the other grease types.
Can I use the above pictured lube for packing BREARINGS?
And what about the level wind shaft gear?
What are spool bearings and what are non spool bearings?
Should I even try to take my reel apart? Will parts fly out, or be hard to replace inside in the correct face-in / face-out?
What are the differences: TSI 301 VS TSI 321 ???
And what is the YAMAHA grease used for if all these other ones are also used? Seems "all other surfaces" are covered by BOTH corrosion X and YAMAHA.
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? :-[ wow im about to have a head ache.
https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/product/details/marine-grease?b=Yamalube+for+Outboard&d=38
is the above the exact same MARINE GREASE? Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2009, 03:42:47 PM
4/15/09 - There a four different lubricants that I use in fishing reels. A "one size fits all" approach will work in some situations, but not this one. This continues to be a work in progress. As of this writing, April 2009, here are the four lubes that I've settled on.
Blue Grease – There are several different manufacturers that market blue greases for fishing reels. These products are all hydrocarbon based, salt water resistant, they never harden, (important to a service center) they stay blue forever and cost only $5 to 15 per pound. You can service a reel, open it up 10 years later and know that you've worked on it before. These blue greases can be packed into non-spool bearings, applied to all screws, gears and other non-exposed metal surfaces, and provide a lifetime of corrosion resistance. The product that I use is the $5 per pound Yamaha All Purpose Engine Grease. Don't use these blue greases on drag washers.
is this the MARINE GREASE?
https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/product/details/marine-grease?b=Yamalube+for+Outboard&d=38
izak, here is where i'm at now......
cal's drag grease - without this stuff, nothing works. nothing. absolutely nothing. having a smooth drag system from this combination of a carbon fiber drag washer and teflon grease changes everything. it amazes me that a reel would even be sold without a greased carbon fiber drag. the fact that every reel manufacturer save one has switched over is a final admission that this system works. yet they still sell reels that have cheaper drag systems because they can get away with it. so cal's grease is 100% pure teflon and i use it for carbon fiber drags only. i've seen it thicken when used on other parts of the reel and i think it is hygroscopic, meaning it absobs water. not a good thing. plus, it's moderately expensive at $7 per ounce or $25 per pound and i go through easily a pound every month! so i use it on drags only.
yamaha marine grease - this is hydrocarbon based grease that should have excellent salt water resistant properties. i say "should" because i have no idea what makes a grease salt water resistant. i am going to have to trust the chemists at yamaha to know what they're doing. other marine greases should work just as well, but i prefer this stuff because it is the cheapest and it stays blue forever. i can open a reel in 20 years and still see blue grease. red grease turns black, other greases cost more. that's why i use this stuff as an all purpose grease. at at $7 for a 14 ounce tube, it's cheap. don't use it on drag washers because it will make them stick.
reel x- my favorite thing about reel x is the dropper bottle. it's great! but at $7 per bottle, i will refill it with corrosion x that costs $17 per pint, basically $1 per ounce. i am told by the company that the difference between reel x and corrosion x is that reel x has more of their mystery lubricant in it. that's why it costs 6-7 times more. it is no doubt worth the cost and can be used with confidence, but for a high priced bearing lube, i prefer tsi.
corrosion x - i refill my reel x bottles with corrosion x and use corrosion x as an all purpose oil. at a little more than a buck an ounce, i love this stuff!!!!! i reach for corrosion x first, anytime i want to oil something. it's cheap and works great. i use it specifically for AR bearings. i do not want to use the slicker TSI products because i'm afraid that the TSI products will cause the AR bearings to slip. i also keep corrosion x in aerosol cans to spray down my rods and reels after a long range trip. if you are looking for one oil and want to balance cost, performance and versatility, get corrosion x.
TSI 301 - this is the expensive stuff. i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance. this stuff is slicker 'n snot! it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping. the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened. and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle. now remember, TSI 301 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry.
TSI 321 - this is actually a better bargain than reel x and it's cheaper. reel x is $7 for a once ounce bottle. TSI 321 is $8 for a 4 ounce bottle. that makes it twice the price of corrosion x but much cheaper than reel x. and remember how TSI 301 is only 10% of that mystery lubricant? well, TSI 321 is 100% of that lubricant. it's easy to ship and easy to divide up into smaller plastic bottles. my only concern is that it might be too slick for AR bearings, but that is just a concern at this point. it's not something i've had a problem with. i can tell you that using TSI 301 and TSI 321, i have spool bearings in my long range reels that were treated 3 years ago and the spools still spin like crazy!
and that is where i am currently at! ;D
that's the right stuff!
Quote from: MuskyFishing on July 20, 2014, 03:02:09 PM
https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/product/details/marine-grease?b=Yamalube+for+Outboard&d=38
is the above the exact same MARINE GREASE?
Quote from: alantani on April 22, 2009, 03:42:47 PM
4/15/09 - There a four different lubricants that I use in fishing reels. A "one size fits all" approach will work in some situations, but not this one. This continues to be a work in progress. As of this writing, April 2009, here are the four lubes that I've settled on.
Blue Grease – There are several different manufacturers that market blue greases for fishing reels. These products are all hydrocarbon based, salt water resistant, they never harden, (important to a service center) they stay blue forever and cost only $5 to 15 per pound. You can service a reel, open it up 10 years later and know that you've worked on it before. These blue greases can be packed into non-spool bearings, applied to all screws, gears and other non-exposed metal surfaces, and provide a lifetime of corrosion resistance. The product that I use is the $5 per pound Yamaha All Purpose Engine Grease. Don't use these blue greases on drag washers.
is this the MARINE GREASE?
https://www.yamahapartsandaccessories.com/product/details/marine-grease?b=Yamalube+for+Outboard&d=38
Quote from: alantani on July 20, 2014, 09:49:06 PM
izak, here is where i'm at now......
TSI 301 - this is the expensive stuff. i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance. this stuff is slicker 'n snot! it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping. the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened. and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle. now remember, TSI 321 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry.
Hey Alan,
I'm sure this is a typo. You mean to say "TSI 301".
oops! thanks, i fixed it!!!!!! ;D
Quote from: mandaragat on July 21, 2014, 02:56:21 AM
Quote from: alantani on July 20, 2014, 09:49:06 PM
izak, here is where i'm at now......
TSI 301 - this is the expensive stuff. i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance. this stuff is slicker 'n snot! it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping. the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened. and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle. now remember, TSI 321 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry.
Hey Alan,
I'm sure this is a typo. You mean to say "TSI 301".
So I take it, That the 301 Is for the bearings, DRAG DISCS, And level wind part. (right?) .
But for EXTERNAL level wind shaft, I use the YAMAHA BLUE, Right?
Mr Tani, Thank you for not letting my constant questions get on your nerves. I am new, as I explained.
Thank you so much for all your help.
Quote from: alantani on July 20, 2014, 09:49:06 PM
izak, here is where i'm at now......
cal's drag grease - without this stuff, nothing works. nothing. absolutely nothing. having a smooth drag system from this combination of a carbon fiber drag washer and teflon grease changes everything. it amazes me that a reel would even be sold without a greased carbon fiber drag. the fact that every reel manufacturer save one has switched over is a final admission that this system works. yet they still sell reels that have cheaper drag systems because they can get away with it. so cal's grease is 100% pure teflon and i use it for carbon fiber drags only. i've seen it thicken when used on other parts of the reel and i think it is hygroscopic, meaning it absobs water. not a good thing. plus, it's moderately expensive at $7 per ounce or $25 per pound and i go through easily a pound every month! so i use it on drags only.
yamaha marine grease - this is hydrocarbon based grease that should have excellent salt water resistant properties. i say "should" because i have no idea what makes a grease salt water resistant. i am going to have to trust the chemists at yamaha to know what they're doing. other marine greases should work just as well, but i prefer this stuff because it is the cheapest and it stays blue forever. i can open a reel in 20 years and still see blue grease. red grease turns black, other greases cost more. that's why i use this stuff as an all purpose grease. at at $7 for a 14 ounce tube, it's cheap. don't use it on drag washers because it will make them stick.
reel x- my favorite thing about reel x is the dropper bottle. it's great! but at $7 per bottle, i will refill it with corrosion x that costs $17 per pint, basically $1 per ounce. i am told by the company that the difference between reel x and corrosion x is that reel x has more of their mystery lubricant in it. that's why it costs 6-7 times more. it is no doubt worth the cost and can be used with confidence, but for a high priced bearing lube, i prefer tsi.
corrosion x - i refill my reel x bottles with corrosion x and use corrosion x as an all purpose oil. at a little more than a buck an ounce, i love this stuff!!!!! i reach for corrosion x first, anytime i want to oil something. it's cheap and works great. i use it specifically for AR bearings. i do not want to use the slicker TSI products because i'm afraid that the TSI products will cause the AR bearings to slip. i also keep corrosion x in aerosol cans to spray down my rods and reels after a long range trip. if you are looking for one oil and want to balance cost, performance and versatility, get corrosion x.
TSI 301 - this is the expensive stuff. i reserve TSI 301 for spool bearings and for levelwind parts, when i want the absolute minimum friction and the absolute best freespool and casting distance. this stuff is slicker 'n snot! it is not good to ship because it only comes in metal cans, and these cans leak sometimes during shipping. the manufacturer says that the solvent will attack plastics, but i've gotten it on plastic before and nothing happened. and at $23 per 8 ounce can, it's not cheap. not being able to break it down into smaller containers is also a real hassle. now remember, TSI 301 is something like 90% solvent and only 10% lubricant, so i dip bearing and levelwind parts into this stuff, then let it the parts dry.
TSI 321 - this is actually a better bargain than reel x and it's cheaper. reel x is $7 for a once ounce bottle. TSI 321 is $8 for a 4 ounce bottle. that makes it twice the price of corrosion x but much cheaper than reel x. and remember how TSI 301 is only 10% of that mystery lubricant? well, TSI 321 is 100% of that lubricant. it's easy to ship and easy to divide up into smaller plastic bottles. my only concern is that it might be too slick for AR bearings, but that is just a concern at this point. it's not something i've had a problem with. i can tell you that using TSI 301 and TSI 321, i have spool bearings in my long range reels that were treated 3 years ago and the spools still spin like crazy!
and that is where i am currently at! ;D
[/quote]
For BEARING packing, Do I use the YAMAHA blue, or the '321' 100% secret stuff? Im worried to use the '301' on the level-wind shaft BC the shaft is very close to the level wind BODY, and that body is plastic.
I do though, have machinegun oil that is polymer safe, and is non toxic, It's called EWL made by SLIP2000. They also make grease.
Now I understand that machinegun grease is designed to not burn at high temps, And that REEL greases are designed for the non corrosive properties. I always tend to worry about the long term "what-if".
Questions
For BEARINGS:
YAMAHA blue, OR TSI321?
For level-wind:
I'm planning to use the YAMAHA on the level-wind gear (shaft) is that ok?
tsi 321!
have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings? Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.
i wish i knew how much of that was real and how much was marketin hype. :-\
What would I mix 100-ISO Polyolester oil with so I can use it on spool bearings without damaging graphite or other plastics on reels I'm servicing? Or does it not damage plastics or graphite in its original state?
Quote from: maxpowers on July 27, 2014, 04:31:05 AM
have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings? Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.
Yes I have, and there is a big difference between that and the Reel-X.
A member Here Graciously provided me a sample. Its called Eco-seal.
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_24511_zpsc346c460.jpg)
That little green bottle is The ecoseal nonolube that a member here provided me, I have been using that on the bearings and you can definitely tell a difference verses the Reel X. Its good stuff. I'm not affiliated with this ecoseal, I just know it works! ;)
Quote from: Shark Hunter on July 29, 2014, 04:46:09 AM
Quote from: maxpowers on July 27, 2014, 04:31:05 AM
have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings? Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.
Yes I have, and there is a big difference between that and the Reel-X.
A member Here Graciously provided me a sample. Its called Eco-seal.
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_24511_zpsc346c460.jpg)
That little green bottle is The ecoseal nonolube that a member here provided me, I have been using that on the bearings and you can definitely tell a difference verses the Reel X. Its good stuff. I'm not affiliated with this ecoseal, I just know it works! ;)
Quint would have been envious of this gear; especially the custom aluminum handle arms and the A.T. handles that would have fared well on his famous 16/0 Penn Senator.
yea, to the above posts about what to mix with this or that and is it plastic safe etc etc....
To paraphrase Alan in previous posts he uses Yamaha Marine Grease because it is readily available, relatively light among Marine bearing greases and yet is sticky enough and does the job. ANY Marine grease that is convenient for you is outstanding for protecting your reel, some is lighter or stickier than others.
Corrosion-X has been a staple for many because it is readily available (often found in Tackle Stores) and is known to be plastic safe and mix well with other greases as a lightener. It is also safe on Monofilament! This is why it universally gets used any and everywhere (except drag washers) and to even wipe down a reel with at the end of the day. Cheap enough. Awesome on the outside of a reel as it picks up less schmutz than grease (knobs, line rollers, rotors, level-winds, levers, handles).
Corrosion-X HD is a spray that can be used to quickly coat surfaces for long term protection. Corrosion-X grease is hard to find and probably outstanding protection in "non-speed" applications.
Cals Drag Grease is totally proven (also mixes well with Corrosion-x, ie Accurate uses this blend in their AR Bearings). It can be used anywhere in the reel, but may be too sticky or too pricy for general use depending on your taste.
TS1 is a miracle performance lube for bearings but "is safe for most plastics"...proceed as you will, each reel has to be looked at in this light.
Sal loves his Valvoline Red thinned with Brake Fluid, Penn Precision Grease is an outstanding light marine grease as well that comes in a compact package that is convenient for individual guys. These lighter greases and "mixes" are preferred for spinning reels. Penn Grease is doubling as drag grease from the Penn Factory on HT-100 drags and should be fine on spinners and smaller conventionals at least that use this drag material. Jury is out for truly big game reels.
etc etc. YMMV No need to take a flier on some wacky new stuff unless for fun and exploration. Unlikely that the general properties of the stuff outlined above is going to be improved on much.
TL;DR Grease on the inside, Drag Grease on Drags and Oil on the outside for protecting your reel. As long as it is plastic safe just about anything will do.
ps I tried re-inventing the wheel with Dupont Marine Grease but it dries more quickly and leaves a bit of a chalky residue that is not to my taste fwiw. :)
Quote from: amoebasurgeon on July 29, 2014, 06:45:34 AM
Quote from: Shark Hunter on July 29, 2014, 04:46:09 AM
Quote from: maxpowers on July 27, 2014, 04:31:05 AM
have anyone tried the nano-lube on bearings? Supposedly it does not need much to protect and molecularly bonded to the metal.
Yes I have, and there is a big difference between that and the Reel-X.
A member Here Graciously provided me a sample. Its called Eco-seal.
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_24511_zpsc346c460.jpg)
That little green bottle is The ecoseal nonolube that a member here provided me, I have been using that on the bearings and you can definitely tell a difference verses the Reel X. Its good stuff. I'm not affiliated with this ecoseal, I just know it works! ;)
Quint would have been envious of this gear; especially the custom aluminum handle arms and the A.T. handles that would have fared well on his famous 16/0 Penn Senator.
No Aluminum here. Stainless and Steel! ;)
(http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag93/darondyer/IMG_24511_zpsc346c460.jpg)
No Aluminum here. Stainless and Steel! ;)
You're kidding! Those are some beautifully machined handle arms. Did you make them yourself?
Members here make them. Keta aka Lee makes the "Keta Kranks" and 'Adams arms' are made by Seven se7ens.
Because it is difficult to find a Yamaha blue grease (only white used in the official Yamaha Service) i found some alternatives - Quicksilver dark blue grease proved to be the best of those that i can find on the market...Is anyone using?
Quicksilver (Mercury marine) grease -black packaging
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag170/bocaporta/reels/omoto1_zpsff667c47.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/bocaporta/media/reels/omoto1_zpsff667c47.jpg.html)
on the gears
(http://i1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag170/bocaporta/reels/omoto_zpsb2038df9.jpg) (http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/bocaporta/media/reels/omoto_zpsb2038df9.jpg.html)
Considering your location Igor, I say it will do fine. I only use penn Blue and Cal's for the drags.
I am leaning to INOX because of geography and availability
TSi321 simplicty is key or you will have 20 tubes on the shelf ;)
Yamaha Grease in San Diego. Where can I purchase it?
i talked to the guy there a couple of years ago and he was telling me that their sales started going up and they didn't know why. they eventually traced it back to us. that was actually quite a compliment! ;D
you could drill out the old grip and bolt on a new one, but you would still be stuck with the same arm. not much help...... :-\
Is there a thread here that shows pics of how your bearing packer brass cones work? I seem to be missing the concept...
Sorry if I missed it Alan but how do you feel about the stock Shimano oil? Was just having a look through my old reel boxes and I have quite the collection; it would save me buying INOX for some time.
it's probably ok. funny thing about the tsi 301 and 321. the stuff really is better. i was more cautious about saying that without knowing what was inside, but it's been 5 years now and reels are still spinning. i think it's worth the extra cost.
i spoke to a guy at the company and he told me that the us secret service uses this stuff.
I got some Weldtite TF2 high temperature teflon grease. It's meant for use on bikes. Water repellant and surface protector.
Used it on the drags on my #49 reel with hex inserts. Seems to be working great. Haven't had any fish dragging out line yet, but in my initial tests the line came off the spool in a sleek way when testing drag. Got a max drag of 29lb. I suppose that is more than the foot of the reel will handle. :)
It has steel gears and SS gear sleeve, so the failure point isn't in the internals.
I think this stuff is great if you can't get cal's grease.
Quote from: trond_solem on March 09, 2015, 09:00:11 PMI think this stuff is great if you can't get cal's grease.
I worked in a bike shop while I was at Uni and got given 3 tubes of that stuff, I used that TF2 in the past on a reel and and walked straight past it the second time it came to service. Just not a consistent lubricating grease the NLGI is too low and the grease isnt what I would call sticky enough for gears; great for bearings in a bike in wheels and bottom brackets / head tubes yes as its a fluid grease - working gears not really in my view.
How's it in drag stacks? I am not a fan of the bright red colour personally.
this might have been asked before but I really cuoldnt found my exact question.
right now Im following step by step the normal "alan tani way" of servicing a reel, light coat of grease on metal parts, grease on bearing that arent spool bearings, 2 droops of oil on spool bearings and levelwinds assemblies, new drag and cal grease on them, tab of grease on screws, etc.
right now I am using Cals grease for every single of those jobs.. I have many small size recipients of cals grease and Im using it for light coat the metal parts, for new carbon fiber washers and also for grease non spool bearings.
now my exact question.
can I continue using cals grease on all this jobs or Im better getting some yamaha marine syn grease for everything except the drag washers which needs to be greased with cals grease?
Im not into a servicing and repair job and dont have any reel shop, so my current grease will be enough for many time for my own reels, but recently some of my friends are giving me their reels for service them and thats what brought me that question.
Cals grease is good for anything - but - apart from drags - its far cheaper to use a marine grease like yamaha or evinrude etc.
thanks,
then I will look for some yamaha marine grade grease
Quote from: steelfish on March 21, 2015, 04:49:18 PM
thanks,
then I will look for some yamaha marine grade grease
Any Marine bearing grease will do. If it is the uber sticky kind that is great for conventional reels, though maybe thin it with oil for spinners.
Ok I started a new thread to see what everyone is using for grease oil and cleaners. but no replies. so lets try it here instead grease isn't that big of a deal any marine or reel grease with an anti corrosion additive. but what is recommended for bearings, bushing, and levelwind parts. Also where can what you are using be found. Also what cleaners is everyone using.
Thanks
Dustin
I may be newish here but I'm happy to kick off the replies:
Casting reel bearings (Abu 6500/7000 etc.) - Rocket Fuel (red or yellow)
Level wind - Rocket Fuel (red)
Everything else except carbon drag washers - marine grease (Yamaha, which was brown, or Lucas, which is blue)
Previously, I used Castrol LM wheel-bearing grease and it has kept my oldest reels in good condition for over 40 years. This stuff tended to dribble in hot weather (like me ;D)
If I was to want free freespool in a Penn International, I'd use Rocket Fuel Liquid Grease knowing it would need frequent replacement.
Chris
When searching the site, I was surprised to find only one brief reference to Boeshield T-9. I first learned of T-9 from the Guys in my Battalion who competed in the Camp Perry matches back in the 1980's. I was told that it was first developed by Boeing to clean and protect canopies on some of the early jet powered fighters. from what I understand that is why T-9 is a water based product and not petroleum based. Anyway, Boeing people soon found that it was a wonderful cleaner, lubricant, and protector for metal. My personal use is as a surface protector for all my plastic and metal fishing, hiking, biking, boating, tools, and on and on. One story I'll tell just as an example. I had a boat trailer cut in-half to extend the length. Before I could get anything done as far as painting it the fall weather was upon me so I sprayed all of the raw metal box tub and welds with T-9. After setting out in the rain and snow for six months the metal was still protected as when it was new. The only drawback is that it can be expensive but I also know that you use a lot less of it to get the job done. Here is the Boeshield website just in case your interested. http://boeshield.com
Quote from: Reel 224 on May 10, 2015, 04:38:31 AM
Quote from: retrofit on May 09, 2015, 07:18:18 PM
When searching the site, I was surprised to find only one brief reference to Boeshield T-9. I first learned of T-9 from the Guys in my Battalion who competed in the Camp Perry matches back in the 1980's. I was told that it was first developed by Boeing to clean and protect canopies on some of the early jet powered fighters. from what I understand that is why T-9 is a water based product and not petroleum based. Anyway, Boeing people soon found that it was a wonderful cleaner, lubricant, and protector for metal. My personal use is as a surface protector for all my plastic and metal fishing, hiking, biking, boating, tools, and on and on. One story I'll tell just as an example. I had a boat trailer cut in-half to extend the length. Before I could get anything done as far as painting it the fall weather was upon me so I sprayed all of the raw metal box tub and welds with T-9. After setting out in the rain and snow for six months the metal was still protected as when it was new. The only drawback is that it can be expensive but I also know that you use a lot less of it to get the job done. Here is the Boeshield website just in case your interested. http://boeshield.com
I just checked out the site you refer to, which of the products do you use on your reels? I see there are several different application and different labeling for each. I think I have used something similar to that product in my gun cleaning and lubricant applications in the past.....the names of the products are not popping in my mind right now but it's not that important. I would just be interested in the specific T-9 product you have been using. There are a lot of lubricants out there but not all have the ability to stand up to salt water as well as some of those that are used here like Cals,Yamaha blue,and 301,321,. Those are the more popular but there is always room for better products for sure, I'm just wondering how much research has been done for the saltwater application.
It has a big T-9 on the label. Packaged in three drip sizes, two sprays, and a gallon jug. I get the 12 oz spray and it comes with that little red tube like most spray stuff so I can shoot it in where I cannot reach. Now I'm striking out on how to post the picture of the stuff. I'll have to do some learning but if you go back to the Boeshield site there other products do not have T-9 on the label. About salt, all I can tell you is I've used it here in Pensacola on rods, reels, boat trailer, trolling motor, outboard motor, boat trim, and other stuff I cannot recall. This has been in the gulf and in the bay. It works for me.
Quote from: retrofit on May 09, 2015, 07:18:18 PM
When searching the site, I was surprised to find only one brief reference to Boeshield T-9. I first learned of T-9 from the Guys in my Battalion who competed in the Camp Perry matches back in the 1980's. I was told that it was first developed by Boeing to clean and protect canopies on some of the early jet powered fighters. from what I understand that is why T-9 is a water based product and not petroleum based. Anyway, Boeing people soon found that it was a wonderful cleaner, lubricant, and protector for metal. My personal use is as a surface protector for all my plastic and metal fishing, hiking, biking, boating, tools, and on and on. One story I'll tell just as an example. I had a boat trailer cut in-half to extend the length. Before I could get anything done as far as painting it the fall weather was upon me so I sprayed all of the raw metal box tub and welds with T-9. After setting out in the rain and snow for six months the metal was still protected as when it was new. The only drawback is that it can be expensive but I also know that you use a lot less of it to get the job done. Here is the Boeshield website just in case your interested. http://boeshield.com
Alan: Don't mean to bother you but was just wondering if you have ever used Boeshield T-9. It has been around for a long time and I've used it for about 20-25 years after I got a 12 oz spray can at an Orvis store.
i bought a can for a long range trip years ago but ended up leaving it on the boat. otherwise, never tried it.
T-9 works, I guarantee it. I used it first on gun barrels 10 years ago and it has always been effective. I by a can whenever I see it at a store and use it liberally on my boat and on the outside of my reels (because I reapply it often in high use areas as an abundance of caution). 301 is great stuff but it is pensive and hard to get so I hoard it for use in areas that I get to less frequently, like inside my reels.
Reel 224, have you ever used "Break Free" CLP? Back in the days when I was a Maintenance BN CO, all of the small arms repair guys used it and said it was the best stuff ever. They optimized their own weapons for the Perry matches and used it on those. Even the heavy weapons guys used it on 50's, 155's, tank guns, & etc. It had a mil number so it could be ordered and we used to get it in gallon and five-gallon jugs. I get it now at Walmart and it is now made by Safariland but it is still Break Free CLP.
Yamaha is still producing the yamalube grease lical in BLUE color ?
Here in Greece the reseller gave me the yamalube grease lical in TAN color.
He said me that the production of the blue color grease is stopped ...
Thank you
The tan coloured Marine Yamalube is the only one available in the UK - No blue ???
do someone knows where to find the bright blue yamaha grease marine, I found some locally that is marine but is between greenish and blueish
not the crystal blue that appears on the pictures of few guys here
I know and suppose its equal on quiality it just that the real blue grase looks better on the reels once serviced
sorry, lenguage translation mistake.
I was just trying to say it was really blue in color, not the new color that loos more lile "teal" color.
Perhaps it's an old stock - new stock thing :-\
Different countries have different standards. The product is probably not produced in only one location. Or, even if it is, the different standards of countries must be recognized. What is blue in the US might have to be tan in some other country. Just an aside, I personally think Penn Blue reel grease is just as good if not better than Yamaha marine blue grease. Also there are other marine blue greases out there that are as good as Yamaha, foe example, AmsOil makes a blue synthetic marine grease that I have used on trailer wheel bearings and it is outstanding. ::)
Theres an interesting field test done on dayattherange.com. Dabbles in lubrication and rust prevention. Interestingly, in the corrosion prevention test, T9 which is highly acclaimed here, failed pretty bad in the test. CorrosionX did better but failed eventually too.
Quote from: 0119 on June 06, 2015, 11:46:07 AM
Theres an interesting field test done on dayattherange.com. Dabbles in lubrication and rust prevention. Interestingly, in the corrosion prevention test, T9 which is highly acclaimed here, failed pretty bad in the test. CorrosionX did better but failed eventually too.
How many of those corrosion tests on gun products tested moving parts?
We could paint surfaces (literally with paint) and get the best corrosion protection of all.
But we need products that work on constantly moving parts. Not stuff that produces a coating on the outside of parts that never move (products for the outsides of guns).
This is why Marine Grease is #1 (more durable protection for moving parts than any oil) with a variety of things that are fast and durable enough for bearings and provide good corrosion protection (oils) are #2.
Coating something on the outside that never moves has limited utility for us. Fast oils that do not last have limited utility for us.
The struggle here is to get fisherman to do something (anything) to protect their reels. That starts with generic Marine Bearing Grease that cannot be beat for straight protection for the coin and availability.
After that it is all a variety of bonus qualities that faster lubes have, durability in bearings being chief among them.
Testing is really valuable to us, I just haven't seen any tests from the gun users that are valuable to us because they never test stainless steel bearings in saltwater.
I don't know. My handguns had much more of a difficult life than the internals of my reels ever do. Salt spray and splash, sitting in a wet holster for 12 hours a day. Freezing cold Alaskan rain. Then on duty in Fl., again salt spray, sweat as it rubbed my wet uniform, sweaty hand oils and again sitting in wet leather as I stood in the rain. My reels get pampered compared to that. I think its foolish not to look at what other sports use and see where they can be applied. Example:I find Cyclings Phil's Tenacious Oil to be exactly the same as Rocket Fuel Liquid Grease at a fraction of the cost.
Quote from: 0119 on June 06, 2015, 07:33:24 PM
I don't know. My handguns had much more of a difficult life than the internals of my reels ever do. Salt spray and splash, sitting in a wet holster for 12 hours a day. Freezing cold Alaskan rain. Then on duty in Fl., again salt spray, sweat as it rubbed my wet uniform, sweaty hand oils and again sitting in wet leather as I stood in the rain. My reels get pampered compared to that. I think its foolish not to look at what other sports use and see where they can be applied. Example:I find Cyclings Phil's Tenacious Oil to be exactly the same as Rocket Fuel Liquid Grease at a fraction of the cost.
How many cycles did it have in a particular day? You reel in a lure once and that is far more cycles than your service revolver sees in every day use. How many cycles does your gun have underwater like a skisher uses his reel? Point being that it is clear the products we have seen in these tests recently seem excellent...for surfaces not in motion.
I think there are many excellent products that will be awesome for the outside of the reel and more to be discovered that might be the best for bearings...the perfect durable lube for bearings that is ultra fast may still be out there. Corrosion-X is proven, widely available and cheap. TSI 321 is the up and comer that may be superior...
But until a bearing test is done in a scientific manner then the stuff they actually designed for use to protect bearings in saltwater is what I am going with.
The problem is testing lubes for bearings takes years of real world use.
That is why Marine Bearing grease has the rep it does...there is decades of real world terrific performance for the cost and minimal regularity of maintenance. Every single boat trailer out there is packed with the stuff. Far harsher testing than any reel will ever experience.
Some of the new oils we have been using are starting to gain acceptance....but, there is nothing scientific out there that tests the performance of moving parts in saltwater over time.
Final point: We can debate this or that brand new lube but the fact of the matter is that the vast majority of the trouble the pro reel techs see is because someone *did nothing* to protect even one single part of his reel.
In comparison probably even whale blubber lube is superior or some other animal fat that the Egyptians used 4000 years ago to lube their chariot hubs :D . Any oil is AWESOME compared to doing nothing.
ps. I'm gonna market some green Nile Gator Goo to keep your Chariot hubs turnin' smooth...;D..."If it was good enuff fer Ramses II it'll get 'er dun for your reel!"
gator hide accessories sold separately.
Quote from: Reel 224 on June 04, 2015, 06:16:41 PM
Quote from: steelfish on June 04, 2015, 04:32:30 PM
sorry, lenguage translation mistake.
I was just trying to say it was really blue in color, not the new color that loos more lile "teal" color.
Yes that's okay I was wondering myself if the Yamalube blue was being discontinued, but it seams to be available at Amazon and should be at most Boat dealerships.
OK, I totally understand what steelfish means. Basically, much earlier on in this thread I believe Alan posted pictures of the Yamaha blue grease to let people what it looks like. I just received my order from amazon.com from the States yesterday and was surprised that it wasn't "crystal blue" neither, the colour is more like blueish green, not sure what to call it, teal or kind of like the Miami Dolphins green.
But, more importantly, I think I might have rushed into buying the Yamaha blue grease as I now know it is petroleum-based. And if I am not wrong, people say petroleum-based is no good and the grease should be synthetic instead. Actually, I would like to ask Alan about that.
Hi.. First time poster here. I'm getting in to Ocean Kayak fishing. I dunked my almost new Tekota 600LC on a beach launch with poor timing in to the surf. It had a bit of sand inside and the bearings had a bit of sand too. I opened it took it apart and cleaned everything well. Lubed up parts/surfaces with some Lubrimatic high temp bearing grease (says good for marine). The bearings were cleaned well and seemed like they were spinning smooth. I went to the trouble of getting some ReelX (mostly for the bottle) and have CorrosionX coming soon. My issue and question is about the ReelX or other good bearing lubricants/oil. When applied, the bearings SLOWED down considerably. I would say about 75% slower. I applied with two different amounts and the second was just the smallest drop I could muster out of the bottle.. very very little amount. I SURE was expecting the bearing to be faster, not slower, with the lubricant. I've read a lot on this website and didn't remember reading anything that lubricant slows down the bearing, but I sure have to believe it does. It doesn't matter much to me for this Tekota, but if one was wanting casting distance, it's seems any "oil" is going to slow the bearing considerably. Am I missing something? Thank you!
Quote from: kalo on September 15, 2015, 07:42:51 AM
Hi.. First time poster here. I'm getting in to Ocean Kayak fishing. I dunked my almost new Tekota 600LC on a beach launch with poor timing in to the surf. It had a bit of sand inside and the bearings had a bit of sand too. I opened it took it apart and cleaned everything well. Lubed up parts/surfaces with some Lubrimatic high temp bearing grease (says good for marine). The bearings were cleaned well and seemed like they were spinning smooth. I went to the trouble of getting some ReelX (mostly for the bottle) and have CorrosionX coming soon. My issue and question is about the ReelX or other good bearing lubricants/oil. When applied, the bearings SLOWED down considerably. I would say about 75% slower. I applied with two different amounts and the second was just the smallest drop I could muster out of the bottle.. very very little amount. I SURE was expecting the bearing to be faster, not slower, with the lubricant. I've read a lot on this website and didn't remember reading anything that lubricant slows down the bearing, but I sure have to believe it does. It doesn't matter much to me for this Tekota, but if one was wanting casting distance, it's seems any "oil" is going to slow the bearing considerably. Am I missing something? Thank you!
Oil in excess creates a fluid wave inside the bearing that will actually slow it down. The most minimal amount is ideal.
However, not to worry as the excess oil will soon leak out/evaporate etc and your bearings will be fine.
The best way to always speed them up is to remove the shields. This way they don't hold excess for long as the first few spins removes excess oil. ;)
Quote from: johndtuttle on September 15, 2015, 02:53:32 PM
Oil in excess creates a fluid wave inside the bearing that will actually slow it down. The most minimal amount is ideal.
However, not to worry as the excess oil will soon leak out/evaporate etc and your bearings will be fine.
The best way to always speed them up is to remove the shields. This way they don't hold excess for long as the first few spins removes excess oil. ;)
Ok. The opening is the spout of the reelx bottle is very small. The second time I applied, the oil just barely flowed out to one spot on the bearing. I will assume it will spin better over time. Might have to do a test at some point to "believe" it though.. :p Thanks very much for your reply. RW
I think the Yamaha grease I just got on Amazon is petro-based. Should I not use it since it is not synthetic?
Darn, I'm on here 25 of 24 hours a day and still got it wrong?
Quote from: kalo on September 15, 2015, 07:28:58 PM
Quote from: johndtuttle on September 15, 2015, 02:53:32 PM
Oil in excess creates a fluid wave inside the bearing that will actually slow it down. The most minimal amount is ideal.
However, not to worry as the excess oil will soon leak out/evaporate etc and your bearings will be fine.
The best way to always speed them up is to remove the shields. This way they don't hold excess for long as the first few spins removes excess oil. ;)
Ok. The opening is the spout of the reelx bottle is very small. The second time I applied, the oil just barely flowed out to one spot on the bearing. I will assume it will spin better over time. Might have to do a test at some point to "believe" it though.. :p Thanks very much for your reply. RW
Talk to me more about this increased slowness. Was this tested with the bearing out of the reel? Or was it tested with the reel back assembled by spinning the spool?
Reason being is that oil will slow them down (sometimes alot) with a simple spin out of the reel but when they are bearing the weight of the spool it is very different.
Quote from: Rancanfish on September 16, 2015, 04:08:20 AM
I think the Yamaha grease I just got on Amazon is petro-based. Should I not use it since it is not synthetic?
Darn, I'm on here 25 of 24 hours a day and still got it wrong?
Don't worry about. It really is more of an issue over very great time (like opening a 40yo Penn), not for any reel used regularly.
Quote from: Rancanfish on September 16, 2015, 04:08:20 AM
I think the Yamaha grease I just got on Amazon is petro-based. Should I not use it since it is not synthetic?
Darn, I'm on here 25 of 24 hours a day and still got it wrong?
It's fine. That's the right grease you purchased. It's not blue anymore. It's a blue/green color and lighter than the older Yamaha grease. The old blue stuff is no more.
Read a bunch in the beginning and some towards the end, I'll admit I didn't knock out all 20 pages yet, but is the grease gun still available for purchase? Even though it's 5 years now that you made it ;D
the grease gun itself is available and many hardware stores. i just got a new order of bearing packers and fittings for the inflator needles. let me know if you want me to send one out.
I went to order another gallon of CorrosionX oil and I saw they have their grease available. I bought 2 14oz tubes and they were just under $11.00 each.
It's green like the oil and very slippery. About the same consistence as Yamaha Marine grease.
I used it today on 2 Penn International 50TW's and it feels and works just fine. It is a tad thicker than Yamaha grease.
At least it mixes with CorrosionX oil very well. I wonder why..!!
nice find, tell us how it works in the long run
Going to order some yamalube soon from amazon, turns out it's $11 shipped on there. Not too bad but that corrosion X grease has my interest.
Anyone ever try the Lucas Oil Marine grease? Could have sworn I'd seen a comment on here saying it was really tacky. Wouldn't that be good in the sense that it's coating the inside of the reel?
I've heard the Lucas grease is good also. It will work just fine. You just need different consistencies of grease for different application's.
For someone just starting out in this game, here's an overthinking it question for you. What grease gun do you prefer? Just got the grease kit from the Boss. Was going to snag some Yamaha grease but I need some Corrosion X lube anyways so I might grab the grease with it. Any guns you guys like over another? Any reason to not just snag the cheaper prettier one on Amazon?
Quote from: handi2 on November 13, 2015, 01:15:53 AM
I've heard the Lucas grease is good also. It will work just fine. You just need different consistencies of grease for different application's.
Thank you. I wanted to try that, because it's already in a 3oz tube and NLGI II as well.
Quote from: ReelCurious on November 13, 2015, 01:18:40 AM
For someone just starting out in this game, here's an overthinking it question for you. What grease gun do you prefer? Just got the grease kit from the Boss. Was going to snag some Yamaha grease but I need some Corrosion X lube anyways so I might grab the grease with it. Any guns you guys like over another? Any reason to not just snag the cheaper prettier one on Amazon?
I only use oil in my guns, of which is a product called Fireclean.
I wouldn't be hesitant at all to recommend the CorrosionX Grease to anyone. Once I use up all my Inox MX8 grease I will use this grease.
Why not?
It's made to use anywhere any marine grease is used and it's cost effective. I just don't know if it changes color when in contact with saltwater like most other greases. I live on the water (Intercoastal) so I guess I'll try it and see.
I will take one of my reels serviced with the CX grease and dunk it for a few minutes, let it sit a day or two, and check it out.
Quote from: handi2 on November 14, 2015, 01:06:53 AM
I wouldn't be hesitant at all to recommend the CorrosionX Grease to anyone. Once I use up all my Inox MX8 grease I will use this grease.
Why not?
It's made to use anywhere any marine grease is used and it's cost effective. I just don't know if it changes color when in contact with saltwater like most other greases. I live on the water (Intercoastal) so I guess I'll try it and see.
I will take one of my reels serviced with the CX grease and dunk it for a few minutes, let it sit a day or two, and check it out.
Would you recommend Brylcream for the hairy parts of my head? ::) Dominick
;D ;D
Well my hairy parts are getting mighty thin so yes go for it..!! Slick it down..
You have no hair left on your head Dominick. Only fuzz. ;)
Darin
Dominick is a Peach
Mike
The raillery on this site is 8). Dominick
Quote from: bluefish69 on November 18, 2015, 04:53:09 AM
Darin
Dominick is a Peach
Mike
But he looks like a happy peach..!!
What an interesting mission it has been to get some grease. Couldn't find Yamaha grease at a few places locally, so I ordered some on ebay. Come to find out it should have been delivered but I haven't seen it. Looking like it's been lost. Also called a few spots for the spray bottle of corrosion x, everyone has only the aerosol. So I had to order that as well as evinrude grease via amazon. Hopefully they arrives safely.
Boats.net has the Yamaha grease at a low price. You can get CorrosionX products from Scott's Bait and Tackle.
I'm assuming you are in the USA.
You can get CorrosionX products from Scott's Bait and Tackle.
and dont forget to ask for the new CorrosionX Grease!!
www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-grease.html
Quote from: Mudman on November 19, 2015, 07:53:55 AM
What an interesting mission it has been to get some grease. Couldn't find Yamaha grease at a few places locally, so I ordered some on ebay. Come to find out it should have been delivered but I haven't seen it. Looking like it's been lost. Also called a few spots for the spray bottle of corrosion x, everyone has only the aerosol. So I had to order that as well as evinrude grease via amazon. Hopefully they arrives safely.
Any Marine Bearing Grease is fine. Don't knock yourself out trying to find Yamaha.
Thanks guys!
Right after ordering some evinrude, my yamalube arrived. Had a debate with the post man, after he had insisted delivering it. Despite being wrong, he was kind of enough to deliver it to me personally, shortly after- I had been in contact with the seller and they had already sent a second yamalube. Asked them not to send one, but they did anyway (prior to me getting the original shipment). Looks like I will be supplied with grease a good long while.
Corrosion X also came, I had assumed it was clear this whole time but mines is green.
All setup now, Corrosion X, Yamalube, Evinrude, Cal's Grease, and a small bottle of TSI 321. ;D
Quote from: Mudman on November 21, 2015, 09:39:31 PM
Corrosion X also came, I had assumed it was clear this whole time but mines is green.
Yep, it has a little green tint to it.
Recently I have talked to JD Hill with Corrosion Technologies and he is considering making the CorrosionX grease available in 2 lb. tubs and the small tubes for the small grease guns for our reel repair shops and individuals.
I think that's great news..!
He will be browsing this forum when he gets back from vacation to see what product we like to use and make them available.
His response;
Hi Malcom,
That's great news!
We are having some issues safely shipping our grease right now. Normally they would come 40 tubes to a case, but until we can come up with a custom shipping box for them, I think the safer thing to do is ship them to you in the inner carton (wrapped in bubble wrap, and that inside a shipping box), which would be 10 tubes per box.
We are looking at purchasing or leasing a new grease filler machine for packing cylinders and soft tubes, so if there is a specific size you're interested in, please send me the size, measurement, as photo, etc., and I'll see if I can add that to my shopping list. On these filling machines, each different size tube requires purchasing additional tooling.
We do have CorrosionX grease in bulk drums. We don't have 2 lb. tubs, but that would be pretty easy for us to do. We would just need to source some containers and create the labels. I'll pass the request along, and if we can bring in a small number of tubs, maybe we can do this for you.
I'll be on vacation next week, but I'll try to do some research on this for you.
Best regards,
- -
J.D. Hill
Vice President of Marketing
2638 National Drive • Garland, TX 75041
469.583.9218 mobile • 972.271.7361 office • 800.638.7361 toll free
corrosionx.com • jdhill@corrosionx.com
Quote from: johndtuttle on November 25, 2015, 04:31:47 PM
Yep, it has a little green tint to it.
Mine looks pretty green, but it's working good so I'm not too worried. Thanks for confirming.
I already serviced all my reels, but with all this grease and oil, I wish I had more to do! ;D
Ha Handi2,
Would it be prudent to put X-grease into a jar or container like Cal's grease or even Penn blue stuff? Seems that would require minimal equipment investment and it would be in a very usable form. Run that past your rep and see what he thinks. ;D
I've only used Penn Blue, but I would definitely switch if it came in a container like that.
Anything marked with the Corrosion X label is good stuff. Any updated on this Malcolm?
Quote from: retrofit on November 29, 2015, 05:07:18 PM
Ha Handi2,
Would it be prudent to put X-grease into a jar or container like Cal's grease or even Penn blue stuff? Seems that would require minimal equipment investment and it would be in a very usable form. Run that past your rep and see what he thinks. ;D
They are researching this now and I sent him pictures of the containers the we now get grease in. He said it would required tooling for there grease dispenser but it's no problem.
Quote from: handi2 on November 26, 2015, 12:23:54 AM
Recently I have talked to JD Hill with Corrosion Technologies and he is considering making the CorrosionX grease available in 2 lb. tubs and the small tubes for the small grease guns for our reel repair shops and individuals.
I think that's great news..!
He will be browsing this forum when he gets back from vacation to see what product we like to use and make them available.
His response;
Hi Malcom,
That's great news!
We are having some issues safely shipping our grease right now. Normally they would come 40 tubes to a case, but until we can come up with a custom shipping box for them, I think the safer thing to do is ship them to you in the inner carton (wrapped in bubble wrap, and that inside a shipping box), which would be 10 tubes per box.
We are looking at purchasing or leasing a new grease filler machine for packing cylinders and soft tubes, so if there is a specific size you're interested in, please send me the size, measurement, as photo, etc., and I'll see if I can add that to my shopping list. On these filling machines, each different size tube requires purchasing additional tooling.
We do have CorrosionX grease in bulk drums. We don't have 2 lb. tubs, but that would be pretty easy for us to do. We would just need to source some containers and create the labels. I'll pass the request along, and if we can bring in a small number of tubs, maybe we can do this for you.
I'll be on vacation next week, but I'll try to do some research on this for you.
Best regards,
- -
J.D. Hill
Vice President of Marketing
2638 National Drive • Garland, TX 75041
469.583.9218 mobile • 972.271.7361 office • 800.638.7361 toll free
corrosionx.com • jdhill@corrosionx.com
My full name is Malcolm "Keith" Rawson.
I'm sure if someone else on this forum would contact them showing interest in their products they would get things moving faster.
2lb tubs :o Jeez, some of us are only hobbyists ya know. ::) My personal preference would be sourcing 1lb tubs.
I thought I would follow the above link directed to a 15oz cartridge of CorrosionX grease. I placed it in my basket followed by my details; with tax added its close to $12 and international shipping is at $22. I closed my browser.
Hi, my first post here :)
Could anyone recommend a good substitute for SuperLube grease e.g. another grease with PTFE additive that doesn't easily emulsifies with water?
I've used SuperLube and liked it a lot on my daiwas (07Luvias, 06Certate) but then I heard a few stories about jammed gears... so I made some non-scientific test (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27523346/grease_testing.jpg) and now I'm pretty concerned.
Just rubbed a few grease I got between 2 steel blades without(A) and with(B) water. SL emulsifies and right away you can see a bare metal.
Cal's, also a PTFE grease doesn't emulsifies like SL so probably PTFE is not the main problem here...
So any input on some good grease that able to silence a bit my daiwa's "geary gears" and also protect them from wear and water - would be much appreciated.
BTW I did try some blue grease, can't recall what exactly... but I didn't get this "moist" feel that I like (and I know it sounds strange:))
One more thing, found some interesting grease (http://www.kaken-s.co.jp/originalbrand/) that is very popular right now in Japan.
For a change (IOS, ZPI?) some tech data could be found here (http://www.kaken-s.co.jp/originalbrand/pdf/naskalub.pdf), also a video (https://youtu.be/HZyf7kF6DL4).
They have spray, oil and 3 types of grease which comes at a fair price (for an amateur use) but what worries me is an Chlorinated Paraffin as an EP additive in that grease/oil. Any thoughts on that?
Cheers, and excuse me for my terrible English :)
i can tell you that both cal's grease and shimano drag grease are hygroscopic and will absorb moisture. go with a good saltwater resistant outboard motor grease as a general purpose grease and leave the teflon products for drag washers only.
oh, and welcome!!!!!! ;D
I have been using Quicksilver 2-4-C for about a year now (even for drags) it's sold/made by Mercury Marine. Seems to work fine. It is a PTFE marine grease and it's even available in the UK.
And welcome!
Thanks for welcoming!
Alan, Yamalube is still a preferred option?
Is it friendly to internal rubber and plastic parts?
Quicksilver 2-4-C is an interesting option! Thanks Tiddlerbasher.
BTW found Yamalube's MSDS (http://www.parkeryamaha.com/forms/ACCGREAS14CTmsds.pdf) and it also contains EP additive, probably zinc dithiophosphate.
Just saying that may be this japanese NASKALUBE is also worth a try?
The primary goal David, is saltwater protection and the Marine Bearing Greases (of any type) are what are preferred for protection. Some are thicker, some thinner and people use whatever suits them. One type is not more protective than another, just may have a viscosity that people like.
Freshwater guys use a variety of "performance" lubes (as well as some Saltwater Manf.) to make their reels as free spinning as possible...but that is not our principal concern as much as the ravages of saltwater.
Quote from: johndtuttle on December 19, 2015, 01:24:59 AM
The primary goal David, is saltwater protection and the Marine Bearing Greases (of any type) are what are preferred for protection. Some are thicker, some thinner and people use whatever suits them. One type is not more protective than another, just may have a viscosity that people like.
Freshwater guys use a variety of "performance" lubes (as well as some Saltwater Manf.) to make their reels as free spinning as possible...but that is not our principal concern as much as the ravages of saltwater.
Also I'm fishing saltwater (mainly surf) my main goal is protect the reel from the rain.
If the reel washed with the wave and sand or dunked... well... it should be cleaned anyway.
So probably I need something marine grade with good water-washout-resistance but just more refined?
Quote from: DavidKa on December 19, 2015, 02:41:13 AM
Quote from: johndtuttle on December 19, 2015, 01:24:59 AM
The primary goal David, is saltwater protection and the Marine Bearing Greases (of any type) are what are preferred for protection. Some are thicker, some thinner and people use whatever suits them. One type is not more protective than another, just may have a viscosity that people like.
Freshwater guys use a variety of "performance" lubes (as well as some Saltwater Manf.) to make their reels as free spinning as possible...but that is not our principal concern as much as the ravages of saltwater.
Also I'm fishing saltwater (mainly surf) my main goal is protect the reel from the rain.
If the reel washed with the wave and sand or dunked... well... it should be cleaned anyway.
So probably I need something marine grade with good water-washout-resistance but just more refined?
Its not that complicated. You need no protection really from rain (rinsing in freshwater is good :) ). Any Marine Bearing grease is fine, we just thin them with an oil (ie Corrosion-x) if they are too thick for a small reel.
Quote from: johndtuttle on December 19, 2015, 04:02:46 AM
Its not that complicated. You need no protection really from rain (rinsing in freshwater is good :) ). Any Marine Bearing grease is fine, we just thin them with an oil (ie Corrosion-x) if they are too thick for a small reel.
Thanks! Should I consider grease complex (alu, lithium etc) when adding CorrosionX?
EDIT: what i meant - does the grease oil complex matters if I want to dilute it with oil?Anyway... I couldn't find a good deal for Yamalube on ebay or amazon, shipping prices are delusional.
So I have to chose from Penn, Cal's purple, Johnson Evinrude Triple Guard and ReelX Medium grease...
The goal is max. protection BUT also max. smooothness ;)
Cheers.
PS. Regarding rain protection. Old Certates has "washable" body concept e.g. many holes in the reel's body. So rain could be a problem with weak, "watery" grease.
New gears are pretty costly :P
Quote from: alantani on December 18, 2015, 02:51:36 AM
i can tell you that both cal's grease and shimano drag grease are hygroscopic and will absorb moisture. go with a good saltwater resistant outboard motor grease as a general purpose grease and leave the teflon products for drag washers only.
this remains me that I need to clean up and re-lube with yamaha grease 3 of my own reels.
before getting bit serious on maintenance and repair reels I only had Cals grease on my tool box, so few of my reels are lubed completely with it (gears, internals, drags, etc). later, I started using yamaha marine for my friends and client's reels but mines still have Cals on the gears and internals, not a big deal but as the boss said, marine grease is better for them
Yamaha Marine Grease Supplier;
AccGreas-10ct Yamahas famous to this forums Marine Multi-purpose Grease is now available in a 10 oz tube which would be handy, available at Amazon.com for $11.49 including free shipping. I havent purchased any yet but it would be better to dispense than the big cartridge......
Quote from: handi2 on November 26, 2015, 12:23:54 AM
Recently I have talked to JD Hill with Corrosion Technologies and he is considering making the CorrosionX grease available in 2 lb. tubs and the small tubes for the small grease guns for our reel repair shops and individuals.
I think that's great news..!
He will be browsing this forum when he gets back from vacation to see what product we like to use and make them available.
His response;
Hi Malcom,
That’s great news!
We are having some issues safely shipping our grease right now. Normally they would come 40 tubes to a case, but until we can come up with a custom shipping box for them, I think the safer thing to do is ship them to you in the inner carton (wrapped in bubble wrap, and that inside a shipping box), which would be 10 tubes per box.
We are looking at purchasing or leasing a new grease filler machine for packing cylinders and soft tubes, so if there is a specific size you’re interested in, please send me the size, measurement, as photo, etc., and I’ll see if I can add that to my shopping list. On these filling machines, each different size tube requires purchasing additional tooling.
We do have CorrosionX grease in bulk drums. We don’t have 2 lb. tubs, but that would be pretty easy for us to do. We would just need to source some containers and create the labels. I’ll pass the request along, and if we can bring in a small number of tubs, maybe we can do this for you.
I’ll be on vacation next week, but I’ll try to do some research on this for you.
Best regards,
- -
J.D. Hill
Vice President of Marketing
2638 National Drive • Garland, TX 75041
469.583.9218 mobile • 972.271.7361 office • 800.638.7361 toll free
corrosionx.com • jdhill@corrosionx.com
CX started marketing their grease in 1kg tubs about a year ago. They released these after discontinuing the grease gun cartridges.
I bought two from our Australian agent which cost me a small fortune. I am not sure where in the food chain these are being bottled. I just assumed it was in the USA.
For the home user, the same stuff is marketed as Reel-X grease in 30 gram tubs with several viscosities.
~
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on December 18, 2015, 09:21:44 AM
I have been using Quicksilver 2-4-C for about a year now (even for drags) it's sold/made by Mercury Marine. Seems to work fine. It is a PTFE marine grease and it's even available in the UK.
And welcome!
There is a Pro here in Oz who has been using this stuff for decades and swears by it. I will have to give it a try one day.
Just bought medium ReelX grease and oil from europe.
Couldn't find decent-priced option for Yamaha and Mercury, someone should start selling them on ebay in small 1-2oz packages, like Cal's and Penn from certain sellers.
Quote from: DavidKa on December 26, 2015, 06:20:43 PM
Just bought medium ReelX grease and oil from europe.
Couldn't find decent-priced option for Yamaha and Mercury, someone should start selling them on ebay in small 1-2oz packages, like Cal's and Penn from certain sellers.
Here's a link to Amazon I recently used to purchase 14oz Yamalube Marine grease cartridge. It was shipped from the US to the UK costing a mere $12 in total: http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Outboard-Marine-Cartridge-ACC-GREAS-14-CT/dp/B004K9FT8K
Once received my preference is to place 4oz's of YM grease into a plastic container (neat) and another 2oz's into an old Penn grease container which has been cut with CorrosionX. For personal use, it will last for many, many years. For use servicing friends and friends of their friends reels, 14oz's should still last a long time.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc146/Chriscpb/Feature/lube.jpg)
I would like to get my hands on the CorrosionX grease, but I'm not prepared to pay $22 in shipping charges alone direct from Corrosion Technologies. :-[ I'll wait until the availability becomes more widespread and prices become more competitive.
Fish - CorrosionX grease is now available in the UK (just) their site lists it under CorrosionX HD
Here is the contact info I was given:
Hi Chris
We have stock and will sell in the UK as 225ml CorrosionX HD grease; we await proper UK-compliant labels, so have not fully launched yet.
We are a couple of weeks away, but if you're OK with an unlabelled tub, we will happily supply immediately. I have put it live on the website without images etc.
http://www.corrosion-x.co.uk/product/corrosionx-hd/
Regards
Rob
Rob Mugglestone
Director
CorrosionX Ltd
Basepoint Business Centre
Bromsgrove Technology Park
Bromsgrove, Worcestershire. B60 3ET
(t) 01527 888 955
(m) 07976697327
(w) corrosion-x.co.uk
(e) rob@corrosion-x.co.uk
Quote from: Fish-aholic on December 27, 2015, 03:45:52 PM
Here's a link to Amazon I recently used to purchase 14oz Yamalube Marine grease cartridge. It was shipped from the US to the UK costing a mere $12 in total: http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Outboard-Marine-Cartridge-ACC-GREAS-14-CT/dp/B004K9FT8K
Thanks. Most of amazon sellers won't ship to israel and if they do - $20-30 on shipping :o
I could find relatively cheap option on ebay~$25 in total... but its still expensive.
I have ordered ReelX grease and oil from croatia HERE (http://triple%20guard%20marine%20grease).
Thanks for the forwarding of the email, Chris. Unfortunately the CorrosionX HD grease is a different product to that of the CX grease Handi2/Keith had posted in this thread (page #21 - reply #302). Until the UK distributor can label/advertise accordingly I will not be comfortable in placing an order with them. :-\
DavidKa - I find myself in a similar situation to yourself; postage charges costing 3x the value of the product. I service quite a lot of reels for friends/friends of their friends these days and find the shipping costs to be a deal killer. It took a long while before I could find a distributor that would ship yamalube marine grease to the UK with reasonable shipping charges.
If you're only planning on servicing your own reels, the excessive shipping rates may be a bitter pill to swallow but to look on the bright side, that one time hit may more than likely leave you with a lifetimes worth for self servicing. Well, until you get bitten by the bug and then your friends shall begin forming an orderly queue. ;D
Not to change the subject, but....
When I clean a reel and oil it on the bench it gets blue Yamaha, Cal's on the drag and TSI 321 on the bearings. When the bearings need more oil in the field I use a small bottle of Reel-X from the tackle box. Are the Reel-X and TSI 321 compatible? Will there be some sort of adverse reaction that might send the reel back to the bench sooner? I like the Reel-X better but notice it does not last as long as the TSI 321.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on January 19, 2016, 08:10:43 AM
Not to change the subject, but....
When I clean a reel and oil it on the bench it gets blue Yamaha, Cal's on the drag and TSI 321 on the bearings. When the bearings need more oil in the field I use a small bottle of Reel-X from the tackle box. Are the Reel-X and TSI 321 compatible? Will there be some sort of adverse reaction that might send the reel back to the bench sooner? I like the Reel-X better but notice it does not last as long as the TSI 321.
-steve
They mix fine.
Thank you John.
Quote from: Wolli on November 21, 2015, 01:39:19 PM
You can get CorrosionX products from Scott's Bait and Tackle.
and dont forget to ask for the new CorrosionX Grease!!
www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-grease.html
Scott's doesn't sell Corrosion X grease. Mo said there is not enough demand for it.
Quote from: RowdyW on January 21, 2016, 04:48:24 AMScott's doesn't sell Corrosion X grease. Mo said there is not enough demand for it.
It's a product that's still in its infantile state (not enough people know of its existence). Give it legs and it will run. ;)
Available from Amazon with reasonable domestic shipping rates, but won't ship to the UK :-\
http://www.amazon.com/Corrosion-Technologies-CorrosionX-Grease-15/dp/B014GYHAIK
I didn't realize the were distributing in the USA. Can you send a photo of the grease Joe? I wonder if it's the same formulation as what was initially produced in Germany.
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 23, 2016, 02:20:24 PM
I didn't realize the were distributing in the USA. Can you send a photo of the grease Joe? I wonder if it's the same formulation as what was initially produced in Germany.
Hi Bryan,
Yeah, I think they have been distributing the grease in the US for a while now.
I have not found a US source that will ship to Australia though and the price here is out of this world.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B014GYHAIK (https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B014GYHAIK)
~
How is the viscosity on the corrosion X grease? Is it as thick as the Yamaha marine grease? Thanks.
Mike
It's available at Corrosion Technologies right here in the USA. Online.
http://www.shop.corrosionx.com/CorrosionX-Grease-15-oz-tube-96801.htm
Quote from: handi2 on January 23, 2016, 04:29:19 PM
It's available at Corrosion Technologies right here in the USA. Online.
Just about the same..
http://www.shop.corrosionx.com/CorrosionX-Grease-15-oz-tube-96801.htm
Quote from: mike1010 on January 23, 2016, 04:29:08 PM
How is the viscosity on the corrosion X grease? Is it as thick as the Yamaha marine grease? Thanks.
Mike
Not quite as thick, but as a carrier of the CX lube, you can tailor it to your own requirements.
~
Quote from: handi2 on January 23, 2016, 04:29:19 PM
It's available at Corrosion Technologies right here in the USA. Online.
http://www.shop.corrosionx.com/CorrosionX-Grease-15-oz-tube-96801.htm
Ha! Thanks for that. Wish I had known sooner.
~
Quote from: Fish-aholic on January 18, 2016, 06:34:46 PM
DavidKa - I find myself in a similar situation to yourself; postage charges costing 3x the value of the product. I service quite a lot of reels for friends/friends of their friends these days and find the shipping costs to be a deal killer. It took a long while before I could find a distributor that would ship yamalube marine grease to the UK with reasonable shipping charges.
If you're only planning on servicing your own reels, the excessive shipping rates may be a bitter pill to swallow but to look on the bright side, that one time hit may more than likely leave you with a lifetimes worth for self servicing. Well, until you get bitten by the bug and then your friends shall begin forming an orderly queue. ;D
I decided to give up on yamalube. Because of the $$$ on shipping but also because it's supposedly a "regular" lithium complex grease and not Aluminum complex as the old one, that (again) supposedly should protect reel better.
I just received two interesting greases. ReelX Medium and just out of curiosity - Molykote G-4500 grease (al. complex thickener+PTFE). Both are passed my "blade test" I posted before, no bald areas on blades... although they seem to emulsify pretty badly.
ReelX is pretty tacky "long fiber" grease, very smoooth, sticks to metal very well, even after wiping it off leaves some oily residue. Polar bonding! :)))
Molykote is thinner and not tacky at all. As all PTFE greases I tried, it also have a mildly gritty-paste like texture plus it's opaque white so it's hard to see when it emulsifies... but nevertheless IMO it's worth a try on light spinners.
Quote from: DavidKa on January 24, 2016, 02:01:24 AM
I decided to give up on yamalube. Because of the $$$ on shipping but also because it's supposedly a "regular" lithium complex grease and not Aluminum complex as the old one, that (again) supposedly should protect reel better.
I just received two interesting greases. ReelX Medium and just out of curiosity - Molykote G-4500 grease (al. complex thickener+PTFE). Both are passed my "blade test" I posted before, no bald areas on blades... although they seem to emulsify pretty badly.
ReelX is pretty tacky "long fiber" grease, very smoooth, sticks to metal very well, even after wiping it off leaves some oily residue. Polar bonding! :)))
Molykote is thinner and not tacky at all. As all PTFE greases I tried, it also have a mildly gritty-paste like texture plus it's opaque white so it's hard to see when it emulsifies... but nevertheless IMO it's worth a try on light spinners.
ReelX is CorrosionX grease repackaged for the servicing market. It comes in different consistencies. This is what I use for most reels.
I have not tried Moly grease because while it is great for gears it is apparently death for bearings.
The Daiwa Moly product is now obsolete according to company techs here and has been superseded by their new product range which is very good.
But it is unclear whether the grease you have is in fact molybdenum grease or it's just the brand name?
~
Quote from: exp2000 on January 24, 2016, 04:35:38 AM
ReelX is CorrosionX grease repackaged for the servicing market. It comes in different consistencies. This is what I use for most reels.
I have not tried Moly grease because while it is great for gears it is apparently death for bearings.
The Daiwa Moly product is now obsolete according to company techs here and has been superseded by their new product range which is very good.
But it is unclear whether the grease you have is in fact molybdenum grease or it's just the brand name?
~
Molykote is a brand name. Here (http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=1227EN) the grease I was talking about. It's pretty huge lubricants manufacturer.
I have a tube of daiwa Mo grease and I have tried it once on my certate. Good grease but IMO not for duralumin-brass gears (like most light daiwa/shimano spinners have) - after a couple of times at sea the grease became black and gears were shiny and polished :)
I really liked the ReelX. I also got the ReelX oil and will try to mix it with grease for repacking "slow" bearings. Any experience with ReelX in bearings, how quite it is?
Quote from: DavidKa on January 25, 2016, 02:21:15 AM
I really liked the ReelX. I also got the ReelX oil and will try to mix it with grease for repacking "slow" bearings.
This is basically the way I treat drive bearings. I mix a light brew and pump it in. But I buy the CorrosionX grease in bulk and mix in the regular CX lube. My primary strategy is corrosion prevention.
Quote from: DavidKa on January 25, 2016, 02:21:15 AM
Any experience with ReelX in bearings, how quite it is?
ReelX and CX are used by many folks here. I use it in conjunction with other lubricants on spool bearings - once again for corrosion prevention. It has a very good reputation.
Let me know how the Molykote product goes. I know a guy who has used a similar grease for many years - Mercury 2-4-C.
I like Teflon lubes for use on anything plastic.
~
Quote from: exp2000 on January 25, 2016, 03:14:33 AM
Let me know how the Molykote product goes. I know a guy who has used a similar grease for many years - Mercury 2-4-C.
I like Teflon lubes for use on anything plastic.
I'm not sure if I should try it on the main or the oscillation gear... Compared to ReelX, Molykote is much softer so may be it's more suitable for osc. area which have a lot of rubber parts.
Anyway I'll post some test pics I made for the "blade test". BTW I don't know if my test is legit in any way or just stupid? :)
Regarding bearings - I think that corrosion protection is highly important but with smaller spinners, especially as precise as Certate (Exist, Stella etc) noise suppression and ware protection is also important. Silent bearing is protected one, noisy bearing will wear off pretty quickly, also noisy bearing will ruin the reeling experience for some perfectionist individuals like myself :) I will try ReelX on some clean degreased bearings I have, with a viscosity of Medium grease I think 60 grease 40 oil mix or 50/50 will be perfect.
Not sure what exactly this pic will prove :) but i've just updated my 'blade test (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27523346/grease_testing.jpg)' photo with ReelX and Molykote.
Although some bare metal can be seen in the most 'wet' pics, only with super lube I got this terrible scraping noise.
Just for laughs.
Didn't found polishing compound when servicing my reel... Daiwa Mo grease is a wonderful alternative :)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27523346/IMG_7494.jpg)
Quote from: DavidKa on February 02, 2016, 08:38:10 PM
Just for laughs.
Didn't found polishing compound when servicing my reel... Daiwa Mo grease is a wonderful alternative :)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/27523346/IMG_7494.jpg)
Yes, the Molybdenum component of Mo Grease will polish like that. I have some Molykote M77 with Molybdenum additive coming that I hope to test.
I noticed David that you have some pipe cleaners there for the inside of the Pinion. I got a great tip from Foakes on the site here to use fine steel wool wrapped around a drill bit for that task. Highly recommended if you can find some.
regards
John I didn't remember where that tip came from but I used it the other day on an old Penn 712. I used bronze wool wet with oil around the drill bit to clean out the bushing inside the reel.
Thanks Foakes..!
Quote from: johndtuttle on February 02, 2016, 08:56:50 PM
I noticed David that you have some pipe cleaners there for the inside of the Pinion. I got a great tip from Foakes on the site here to use fine steel wool wrapped around a drill bit for that task. Highly recommended if you can find some.
regards
Thanks John for the great tip!
hi guys still new and learning so forgive me for the stupid questions but i was reading this and just have a question about the tsi 301 from earlier. should it be used on spool bearings or should i stick with something made for spool bearings such as speedx or xtreme reel + to maximize free spool? also now that some time has past dose anyone have any information on how long the 301 actually lasts.
It's good stuff, Joe. I've used it on unauthorized applications as well :-X
Sid
Quote from: jamesbay on February 04, 2016, 01:58:36 PM
hi guys still new and learning so forgive me for the stupid questions but i was reading this and just have a question about the tsi 301 from earlier. should it be used on spool bearings or should i stick with something made for spool bearings such as speedx or xtreme reel + to maximize free spool? also now that some time has past dose anyone have any information on how long the 301 actually lasts.
TSI 301/321 is ideal for spool bearings. Very, very fast lube that seems quite durable as well. Alan had reels that still spun like TSI was just applied a year later.
However, 301 is NOT plastic safe. It contains a solvent that is very useful for a final removal of previous lube, then when it drys the lubricating qualities of TSI are left behind.
TSI 321 conversely is only lube and safe with plastics. I prefer this route (I only service my own reels) but TSI 301 is very useful for a "volume" reel repair/tuner guy. Dawn at smoothdrag sells only the TSI 321.
I stand corrected, what I used was TSI-321.
Sid
Quote from: Reel 224 on February 04, 2016, 09:12:21 PM
I also made that same mistake, yes it's 321 not 301. The 301 is in the can. I always make the mistake between 301&321
Joe
Yep, when it comes in a can it usually is not Plastic safe! :D
Like beer!
At $45.00 a can its expensive too. I use it occasionally. Its a great penetrating oil.
Quote from: handi2 on February 05, 2016, 01:31:33 AM
At $45.00 a can its expensive too. I use it occasionally. Its a great penetrating oil.
What's $45 a can?
If you need a plastic safe solvent/oil mix IPA and 321 - 80% IPA and 20% 321 works just like 301 ;)
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on February 05, 2016, 10:13:26 AM
If you need a plastic safe solvent/oil mix IPA and 321 - 80% IPA and 20% 321 works just like 301 ;)
X2
The more I use TSI 321 on small baitcasting reels the less I like it. I'm sure TSI 321 does everything it is advertised to do and more. Adheres to metal, long term corrosion protection, etc. But, it bogs down the spool shaft bearings and reduces distance. I don't know if the viscosity it too high, the adhesion to metal makes it sticky, or what. It works fine everywhere except the spool bearings. I like Reel-X better for the spool bearings. Have not yet tried Hot Sauce or one of those yet but read somewhere here that it may not last as long.
Longevity is the other issue for me (besides distance). After applying Reel-X there is a loss of performance for a few minutes. After casting for a while performance increases, plateaus, then eventually performance drops off again and it is time to lubricate. I don't know what causes that initial loss of performance. I use as little oil as possible but maybe there is still too much excess initially.
With TSI 321 the initial loss of performance is way too long (many hours of casting), but the plateau is also long. With Reel-X it only takes a few minutes to "brake in" or "spin out" or whatever, and the plateau will last for something like six to eight hours of casting. For me that's three to four outings of a few hours each. Hot sauce.... don't know yet. For a trolling reel, infrequent use or long term storage TSI 321 is probably the way to go. But perhaps there is a better option for small plastic reels that are used every day or so.
-steve
Mix the 321 with IPA, as per the previous post, apply ONE drop to a spool bearing. The results will last a season! Been there done that ;) Still happy with the results ;D
Quote from: oc1 on February 05, 2016, 09:25:16 PM
The more I use TSI 321 on small baitcasting reels the less I like it. I'm sure TSI 321 does everything it is advertised to do and more. Adheres to metal, long term corrosion protection, etc. But, it bogs down the spool shaft bearings and reduces distance. I don't know if the viscosity it too high, the adhesion to metal makes it sticky, or what. It works fine everywhere except the spool bearings. I like Reel-X better for the spool bearings. Have not yet tried Hot Sauce or one of those yet but read somewhere here that it may not last as long.
Longevity is the other issue for me (besides distance). After applying Reel-X there is a loss of performance for a few minutes. After casting for a while performance increases, plateaus, then eventually performance drops off again and it is time to lubricate. I don't know what causes that initial loss of performance. I use as little oil as possible but maybe there is still too much excess initially.
With TSI 321 the initial loss of performance is way too long (many hours of casting), but the plateau is also long. With Reel-X it only takes a few minutes to "brake in" or "spin out" or whatever, and the plateau will last for something like six to eight hours of casting. For me that's three to four outings of a few hours each. Hot sauce.... don't know yet. For a trolling reel, infrequent use or long term storage TSI 321 is probably the way to go. But perhaps there is a better option for small plastic reels that are used every day or so.
-steve
TSI 321 is a extremely low viscosity grade oil and is very slick. In my needle applicator bottle it runs like water. You should be experiencing great, sustainable freespool times with the product. ReelX is higher in viscosity than the aforementioned, so if pitted against TSI, it will have inferior spool spin times.
When I lube with TSI 321 (shields removed and binned), I gently blow out all excess oil with a can of compressed air to leave a mere skin behind. As a long distance surfcaster who used to rigorously pull my spool bearings to clean and re lubricate after 100 or so casts (5-6 outings) due to the reel suffering a loss in freespool - or increase in bearing noise - I am now lubricating once a season with TSI without contamination.
I have never seen TSI turn sticky, either. The viscosity operational range (temp) is that wide, outdoor temperatures will not be a factor like it can be with other oils (thin/thicken).
Not sure what's going on with your reel, but it sounds like it needs further investigating, not the choice of oil. :-\
Steve.
for my use which would be just servicing my reels and couple of friends reels should i go with 301 or 321 for bearing servicing? dose 321 also give you the corrosion resistance that 301 gives? looking for the best option to use on all my bearings but in particular my spool bearings in my baitcasters which i use in saltwater as well as all my spinners and conventionals. thanks
Quote from: oc1 on February 05, 2016, 09:25:16 PM
The more I use TSI 321 on small baitcasting reels the less I like it. I'm sure TSI 321 does everything it is advertised to do and more. Adheres to metal, long term corrosion protection, etc. But, it bogs down the spool shaft bearings and reduces distance. I don't know if the viscosity it too high, the adhesion to metal makes it sticky, or what. It works fine everywhere except the spool bearings. I like Reel-X better for the spool bearings. Have not yet tried Hot Sauce or one of those yet but read somewhere here that it may not last as long.
Longevity is the other issue for me (besides distance). After applying Reel-X there is a loss of performance for a few minutes. After casting for a while performance increases, plateaus, then eventually performance drops off again and it is time to lubricate. I don't know what causes that initial loss of performance. I use as little oil as possible but maybe there is still too much excess initially.
With TSI 321 the initial loss of performance is way too long (many hours of casting), but the plateau is also long. With Reel-X it only takes a few minutes to "brake in" or "spin out" or whatever, and the plateau will last for something like six to eight hours of casting. For me that's three to four outings of a few hours each. Hot sauce.... don't know yet. For a trolling reel, infrequent use or long term storage TSI 321 is probably the way to go. But perhaps there is a better option for small plastic reels that are used every day or so.
-steve
Probably excess application of TSI 321 would be my first thought with a longer time before it leaves behind just enough to do the job?
One advantage of 301 is that it leaves that ideal thin layer behind.
Regardless, Reel-X is great stuff too and I use it without reservation. I honestly don't concern myself with ultimate speed. I cast straight braid and often slowing down the reel is needed.
Quote from: jamesbay on February 06, 2016, 01:06:47 AM
for my use which would be just servicing my reels and couple of friends reels should i go with 301 or 321 for bearing servicing? dose 321 also give you the corrosion resistance that 301 gives? looking for the best option to use on all my bearings but in particular my spool bearings in my baitcasters which i use in saltwater as well as all my spinners and conventionals. thanks
301: Contains a solvent not plastic safe. Leaves behind the ideal thin coat of TSI. Probably best only for bearings so the solvent doesn't get where you *don't* want it.
321: Just lube. Ideal for anywhere in the reel.
TSI301 is 1 part TSI321 to eight parts powerful solvent.
The purpose of the solvent is to remove any traces of old lubricants to expose clean bare metal so the Barium compound can bond directly to it.
You can duplicate the 301 product by adding 1 part 321 to 8 parts Isopropyl Alcohol. IPA is not quite so aggressive as the original solvent but it evaporates cleanly.
Currently I am experimenting with slightly richer dilutions.
Some people may mistake TSI for "oil". It isn't. It's more like paint in it's application.
I do not use it in drive bearings as it has similar properties to Teflon so grease will not adhere to treated surfaces - it just sides off it.
In these, I pump a light Corrosion X grease mix inside, completely filling the bearing.
~
I'm must be applying too much then. The Reel-X came in a small bottle with a small tip. The TSI 321 came in a larger bottle with a larger opening in the tip. Guess I'm not controlling the amount well enough. Will try it again but with a syringe this time.
A reel was accidentally dunked today and that is a good excuse to clean and lube it tomorrow. I soak the bearings in acetone and then put them on a dowel and roll the bearing under pressure in acetone (pressing the dowel against the side of the container of acetone and rolling it back and forth). Seems to get everything out and the acetone that is not blotted away on a towel evaporates quickly.
Cutting the TSI 321 with isopropyl sounds interesting. The isopropyl (91% from the pharmacy) might screw up the finish but it seems like the composite frame and hard plastic parts would be OK. No? One advantage of an inexpensive plastic Korean baitcaster is there are not very many things to corrode.
-steve
I only use 99% IPA to cut the 321 - 8 parts to 2 parts. One drop of that on a spool bearing does the trick. ReelX is very good but doesn't seem to last very long :(
Thank you. I'll look for 99% locally. Can't order it on line because it can only be shipped over land or by sea. Too flammable to be put on a plane.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on February 06, 2016, 08:37:40 AM
Cutting the TSI 321 with isopropyl sounds interesting. The isopropyl (91% from the pharmacy) might screw up the finish but it seems like the composite frame and hard plastic parts would be OK. No? One advantage of an inexpensive plastic Korean baitcaster is there are not very many things to corrode.
-steve
The main impurity in IPA is water. The higher the purity the better. Yes 99% is about as pure as you can get.
~
You can get 91% isopropyl alcohol (to me IPA is something you drink on a hot afternoon) at most drug stores. It's also available more commonly as 75% isopropyl alcohol.
Quote from: exp2000 on February 06, 2016, 11:55:44 AM
The main impurity in IPA is water. The higher the purity the better. Yes 99% is about as pure as you can get.
~
I would also think about adding other organic solvents to TSI-321 - acetone, and mineral spirits come to mind - almost any organic solvent will work to thin out the 321 and dissolve gunk.
Sid
Sid - The main advantage of IPA is that it doesn't attack plastics and is relatively non-toxic - Acetone will, the quality of mineral spirits is vary variable. Other well known solvents like Trichlor are very volatile and toxic :( (in the UK it's almost impossible to buy retail).
IPA=India Pale Ale and it won't dissolve plastic :) Acetone is pretty safe with most plastics, but to be sure there are organic solvents that aren't plastic-safe. If you're going to add a solvent to your TSI-321 to clean bearings I'm not worried about plastics. Just make sure to rinse it out and oil lightly when finished.
I use Shellite as a solvent for a general purpose mix - its cheap and is a better grease solvent than acetone and will not affect plastics.
But for bearings you must be cautious of residual contamination. You need something that leaves absolutely no residue - especially where spool bearings in the likes of baitcasters are concerned.
99% IPA is the safest option here although you could use acetone as an alternative.
~
I put a drop of TSI 321 and a drop of Reel-X on a piece of glass but the volume of the two looked about the same so that probably was not the problem. The reel (Lew's BB1) was cracked open, everything put through the sonic cleaner with Simple Green and the three spool bearings flushed with acetone. Putting it back together I was trying to be as stingy as possible with the grease (blue Yamaha) and TSI 321. Put one drop of TSI 321 on each bearing as before. Then it hit me. I had been putting one or two drops on the shims wear plates at each end of the spool shaft in the left side plate and in the right-side cast control knob. The wear plates are some sort of fine woven fabric impregnated with some sort of hard resin and serve the same purpose as the familiar square copper shims that you have seen in a ABU. They have never shown any sign of wear or dimple but since they are touching the ends of the spool shaft I figured they had to have some oil. But, it may have created a little oil reservoir that kept the bearings too wet. The wear plates were left dry this time. The reel was cast for a while to dial in the brakes and it is doing about 46 measured yards with a 3/8 oz. jig. That is as much as I can hope for. Thank you all for your help.
Oh... and the isopropyl. I had never considered using isopropyl with reel maintenance until you guys mentioned it. After putting everything in a little sonic cleaner with Simple Green I rinse with water, shake off the excess and dry with a hot air gun turned down to the minimum temperature (its barely warm). This time everything was rinsed with 91%isopropyl after the water. The isopropyl evaporated quickly leaving very little water that has to be died with the warm air gun. It saved some time and there was no sign of residue.
-steve
Hi to everyone here.
I am new and this was the best board I have been able to find. I am so happy to find this site. I am trying to take all of this information and put it to use. After reading the entire post I have to say that Alan is a reel "Master" and there are more than a few that have contributed greatly to this post. So living where I do "Alaska" I have a few questions. On any given year the temps that we fish are from 15 degrees at the coldest to 75 Fahrenheit at the warm end. with most of it being 35-65 degrees. should I use the purple or tan Cal's grease (drag disks, I have a friend that has some purple that he will give me)? I have is on the Avet SX 6/4 MC Raptor. It states on the material that it came with that these are "DRY" carbon fiber drags. Should I even use grease on them? And which general purpose grease should I use in the colder temps Yamaha or corrosion x grease? I have the tsi 321 on the way, as well as the reel x oil. If the tsi 321 is so good, can it be used everywhere in the reel that oil is needed? or is there an issue with doing that. I only have 8 conventional style reels so price is not as big of an issue to me. It is more about having dependable equipment in good working order. I service my reels once a year, two at the most.
Thanks for all the great information on this post, it has been a true pleasure to read... Great Info...
Brent
Welcome Brent, as for greasing your drags I would use the Cal's purple. It will cover for your use at all those temps & higher & lower. Your choice on the grease whichever is easier to get.They both work great. If it is to thick just thin it slightly with ReelX. T S 321 can be used anywhere that you want to use oil. Cal's grease can be used on any carbon fiber drags in any reel. Now 8 reels is just a start. Hang around here & they will multiply like rabbits. :D RUDY
Hello and welcome Brent!
Sorry, I can't help you much with your drag grease situation; your warmest day on the water is probably one of the cooler ones for me.
Others will chime in with something more substantial, until then enjoy.
Chad
Thanks for the info. And you are right, what I should have said is that I only use about 8 reel there are 20 more in the storage shed that I do not use any more. Upgrade, upgrade, upgrade.... It seems never ending
Brent
Welcome aboard, Brent --
We have a couple of members on here who fish and live in Alaska -- plus Lee (Keta)who knows SE Alaska well. They will chime in shortly, or tomorrow. Bill is a professional tackle repair guy -- with a shop in Alaska.
Yamaha or Penn is good for the gears and internals, 321 for the oil places, Cal's purple for the drags, and if really cold conditions -- use a combo mix of purple and 321 on the bearings.
Service all of your reels, including the 20 in storage -- plus show us some pics.
An unserviced reel in storage is just a paperweight.
Enjoy the site -- and welcome!
Where do you live and fish in Alaska?
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred.
I live on the Kenai peninsula. All of my salt fishing is out of Homer and Seward or in the gulf between the two. I am at work right now, so no way to download any Pics. But this seems to be the place to get good advice on reels. Most of our salt water is for Halibut, ling cod, rock fish and a little winter king fishing too. The reels I have in storage are older models I keep them for loaners or if I take a kid out and he really likes it I will toss him/her a old set up, it makes them smile and helps get them into the sport. Win, Win..
Quote from: foakes on February 20, 2016, 08:01:06 AM
Welcome aboard, Brent --
We have a couple of members on here who fish and live in Alaska -- plus Lee (Keta)who knows SE Alaska well. They will chime in shortly, or tomorrow. Bill is a professional tackle repair guy -- with a shop in Alaska.
Yamaha or Penn is good for the gears and internals, 321 for the oil places, Cal's purple for the drags, and if really cold conditions -- use a combo mix of purple and 321 on the bearings.
Service all of your reels, including the 20 in storage -- plus show us some pics.
An unserviced reel in storage is just a paperweight.
Enjoy the site -- and welcome!
Where do you live and fish in Alaska?
Best,
Fred
Didn't I just say that ??
Hey the more people say the same thing the more weight it carrys.
Hi Brent -- And welcome to the board. As someone mentioned, I too live in Alaska and run a reel repair shop, Taku Reel Repair, out of Juneau. Don't hesitate to contact me for any help or advice. (907 789 2448)
As for drag grease: I tried Cal's purple for a while but decided that the tan stuff was fine. I suppose if you are fishing in the winter extensively, purple might be better -- but none of my customers who fish winter kings have mentioned anything negative about their drags, and all have been serviced with Cal's tan grease.
I always grease Avet drags. Avet doesn't recommend it but I find that greased drags are smoother and offer considerable help against corrosion. Just remember to apply only a very light coating of Cals on lever drag washers.
Tight Lines,
Bill
Thanks Bill,
If I have any problems I will call...
Brent
Just a tiny update on my personal experience with ReelX grease-oil.
Old Daiwa Certate, Shimano Exsence (09 twonpower MG) - all good, smooth and silent. Medium grease for main gear, soft grease for worm gear area, oil for shaft.
12 Vanquish waiting for his turn, feels very "dry" to me...
We Muskie fish in to the second week of Dec and the temps and wind chill are most often below freezing. I do a ton of reels and I've had no issues or had any reported to me and I use the tan Cals.
PENETRATING OIL COMPARISON
Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. The results are as follows;
Penetrating Oil .......... Average load
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ........................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster ................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50-50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Excellent thread and site! But I do have some questions about gear greases that I'm unclear on.
Firstly) Alantani likes Yamaha Marine, and I'm inclined to want to use something everyone has good luck with. But people have mentioned it getting a change in recipe and color. Is the newer stuff just as good, or acceptable at least?
Secondly) Some of you have said that just about any Marine Grease is fine and to not overthink it, and if you buy one that's too sticky on accident, to just mix some of your reel oil with it to the desired consistency. I took that advice and while out shopping today I didn't see any Yamaha Marine so I picked up the first brand I recognized from the many posted here. I almost bought it, but then I noticed it was lithium based. Pretty sure I read somewhere that lithium greases in reels ends up hardening and super tough to clean out. Is this something I should be looking out for? Or should I have just bought it anyway?
Thirdly) Someone on reddit recommended that I use an orange colored marine grease that's used on oil rigs. The idea of a grease that is designed to likely be cheap and able to withstand those conditions, caught my attention. But the guy couldn't remember what the name of the grease was, and I wasn't able to find it by simply googling "orange marine grease". Does anyone have any ideas on what he might've been talking about?
Lastly) Regarding the synthetic marine lubes. Previous posts said that in theory they would last longer than the more common marine lubes. But you guys also said it's no big deal because it's not a problem when you clean your reels more than once a year. I happened to find some synthetic marine lube that was actually cheaper than the others though. Like only a few bucks. In a situation like that, is there any reason to not go with the synthetic?
in most situations, the coat of grease is very thin and you can hardly tell anything about the properties of the grease. i usually just take an old tooth brush and spread around the grease that is already inside the reel. nothing fancy. yamaha marine is easy for me because i can pick up all i want at the local grady dealer that i take my boat to.
for a light oil, joey and i are pretty much just using TSI 321 now. i still have corrosion x for applications that require an aerosol, like spraying down rods and reels after fishing.
and lastly, the drag grease. it's still cal's!
Quote from: alantani on September 27, 2016, 04:20:24 PMi still have corrosion x for applications that require an aerosol, like spraying down rods and reels after fishing.
Interesting, so no bad effects on the mono or rod finish with that?
I always worry that the fish are going to smell it if I get grease or oil on the line. No evidence that happens though.
-steve
I wouldn't worry too much about that Steve...many fishermen in my neck of the woods used WD-40 as an attractant...and it has been documented to work. I had a hard time believing a petroleum product wouldn't spook a fish til I saw diesel fuel used as a cover scent while deer hunting...sheesh...who'da thunk it? 8)
Thank you for that Mo. I've had some spool corrosion problems and need to be more careful about putting grease or wax on the spool before loading line. Grease is easy and probably works better but I was worried about smell.
When hunting around corn and bean fields the best deer stand is a tractor left by the field overnight. Hides the smell and is comfortable to boot.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on September 27, 2016, 07:40:58 PM
I always worry that the fish are going to smell it if I get grease or oil on the line. No evidence that happens though.
-steve
Actually, my concern is not about the smell. It is about whether the greases or spray lubes might weaken mono line?
Mono is nylon. Here's a nylon compatibility chart:
http://www.calpaclab.com/nylon-chemical-compatibility-chart/ (http://www.calpaclab.com/nylon-chemical-compatibility-chart/)
I'm no chemist but it should be OK with most oils. The one that surprises me is that nylon is compatible with acetone and mineral spirits, but not isopropyl alcohol.
-steve
Quote from: Jimmer on February 17, 2012, 08:53:43 PM
I found an anhydrous alum. based grease manuf. by citgo and sold under the mystic label at our local farm and fleet store that meets these criteria - mystik high performance marine grease - $4.00 per 3 3oz. tubes.
buddy, are you still using the Mystik marine grease currently ? any pro or con additional detail that you want to share after this years of use on your reels.
for me yamaha marine is becoming harder to get lately, almost imposible in Baja and frequentely out of stock on Calexico, Ca (US city bordering with Baja) which I visit every 3 weeks, and getting yamaha shipped normally increase the price 80-90%, not that bad I know.
mystic marine grease is available in two different autoparts in Calexico, Ca. I can get it but I wanted to check to you before, my plan is to use it until waiting to Yamaha to stock up the marine grease again and save the mystic for cases like this.
So for 50 SW, Yamaha marine grease for all the internal moving part and bearings, Cal's for drag and everything else slathered with Corrosion X...?
I'm so glad I found this forum. Wow, what a great thread! This is my first post (of many to come, I'm sure). I'm in the process of learning my own reel repair and servicing. This site has been a gold mine. The collective experience here is second to none. Thank you all for your time and willingness to share with newbies like me.
After reading 20 of the 27 pages of this thread, I have come to conclusion that there are plenty of things that will work for different applications; however the main constant from the first of Alan's posts, to the last was the use of Cal's on the drag washers. I just looked it up online to see if there was any placed that sold it up here in Alaska, and the only thing I could find was Okuma Cal's universal grease.
Did Okuma buy the formula for this or the company? Is it the same grease that you all are talking about?
Just want to make sure I buy the right stuff.
Thanks again!!
Adam in Alaska
Quote from: Smude442 on February 24, 2017, 05:26:54 AM
I'm so glad I found this forum. Wow, what a great thread! This is my first post (of many to come, I'm sure). I'm in the process of learning my own reel repair and servicing. This site has been a gold mine. The collective experience here is second to none. Thank you all for your time and willingness to share with newbies like me.
Adam in Alaska
Adam,
Welcome to the Forum . . . You are among friends here !
Tight Lines !
Welcome, Adam --
And good fortune with your reel repair endeavor!
Cal's sells in bulk to some wise manufacturers that repackage under their own label.
Okuma is very smart, progressive, and willing to listen to folks like Alan Tani, and others who use various products successfully -- that are proven and work well. Why reinvent the wheel?
Cal's sells two kinds of drag grease -- regular tan formula for most applications -- and the purple for very cold weather use.
I go through about (3) tubs a year -- two tans and a purple.
At the Fred Hall show, they generally have a special going where if you buy 2 large tubs -- you get the third one free. That is what I do.
Best,
Fred
I'm currently using the Okuma Cal's...it looks like Cal's...smells like Cal's...and Ted says it tastes like Cal's too! :D ;D ;) 8)
I've been using Dupont Marine Waterproof Grease sometimes in place of Cal's. I haven't noticed any differance between either of them. I've been using it for over 3 years now & it seems the same as Cal's. The color is just slightly lighter then Cal's. The cost for a 16 oz. can was $7 & change + s&h. I sent some to Sal a couple of years ago and I'm still waiting for his opinion of it.(hint hint). ;D Rudy
Understood and thank you for the quick responses Dave, Fred, Mo65, and Rudy! I really think I'm going to like this place...
Quote from: Smude442 on February 24, 2017, 05:26:54 AMI just looked it up online to see if there was any placed that sold it up here in Alaska, and the only thing I could find was Okuma Cal's universal grease.
Just want to make sure I buy the right stuff.
Thanks again!!
Adam in Alaska
Adam,
If you can't find a local dealer for Cal's in Alaska . . . Never fear, EBAY is here !!!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Fishing/1492/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=cals+grease+drag&_sop=15 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/Fishing/1492/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=cals+grease+drag&_sop=15)Tight Lines !
Hi all,
Buddy asked me to check his reel out..Daiwa SL50SH that has issues with the handle. Decided to give it a look and whilst i was at it decided to experiment with his reel. Not recommended that this be the norm but since i was not charging him and i don't receive income from reel servicing i thought i will satisfy my curiosity lol.
Checked the handle out and found the nut was not properly tightened and problem quickly solved. Now he just asked me to check the handle out ;D. Staring at the reel i thought i have time on my hands and so decided to strip the entire reel as i could feel the reel was not in good shape after a free spool spin. Removed the left side spool and removed the shield from the bearing. Soaked the bearing in battery acid to remove the old grease :o. That didn't impress me as the old grease in the bearing was pretty much there still and i had no lighter fluid or something else to remove old grease. Then sprayed the bearing after i dried it with Wurth Multi. Greased the rest of the l/s plate and set it one side. Removed old grease (thin layer) from spool shaft and give it a spray with the Wurth Multi and set spool aside.
Started with the right side plate removing the handle and washers etc until i got to the gear box. What a sight!! Old grease slapped thick on pinion and drive gear. Bearings full of sand and rusty but still given a clean in car battery acid and shields removed. Removed all the old grease that was green in colour?? Put some new fresh grease on inside of plate and regreased washers. Gave the drive gear a spray of Wurth Multi as well as the pinion. No grease. Put the reel back together. Received a what sup message from buddy who went to test cast the reel and cannot repeat message he sent me except to say he was one happy chappy. Not really advisable i know but the product and i don't work for them or owe them anything really is corrosion resistant and i will after a while inform him the reel needs some extra grease where there is not. Pic of the multi.
(http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh567/fumoro2/multi_zps8ynxsx5c.jpg) (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/fumoro2/media/multi_zps8ynxsx5c.jpg.html)
also interested in the Wurth hhs2000 that is a grease in solvent form..sprayed out when the solvent evaporates you left with the grease so can reach tight places.
(http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh567/fumoro2/hhs-2000_zps1wv6dscb.jpg) (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/fumoro2/media/hhs-2000_zps1wv6dscb.jpg.html)
as added extra i see some guys like to polish the pinion.. i have used 3M Perfect It Rubbing Compound along with my dremel + ear bud at 20 000 rpm's to polish my reel pinions.. good stuff.
(http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh567/fumoro2/perfect-it-ex-rubbing-compound-quart-36060_zpszu1jjxju.jpg) (http://s1252.photobucket.com/user/fumoro2/media/perfect-it-ex-rubbing-compound-quart-36060_zpszu1jjxju.jpg.html)
Regards..
Alan...I have a group of old school Shimano Bantam Mag 200 SG' s that I use for winter steelhead fishing here in NorCal...including 2 Bantam MagCast that I am told were manufactured solely for the Japanese market...even though these reels are in exceptional condition considering their age, I upgrade the drag washers to Carbon Fiber, and the bearings to Boca ABEC 7 Orange Seal, where possible....my question is, what oil and grease would you recommend for these reels? Boca sells their own label of bearing oil....A lot of guys swear by Quantum Hot Sauce, as well as Ardent products.....What would you recommend?
I'm a new member and after reading extensively on the forums here, I have switched over to a moderate coating of blue Yamaha marine grease for most everything but the drag washers and bearings on my Shimano Bantams. The blue grease seems to stay in place nicely and hasn't migrated down into the bottom of the pinion gear. I'm using Cal's drag grease on the cf drag washer upgrades.
So far I've lubed the bearings and inside the pinion on two Bantam SGs with TSI321 and did the same to the bushings and pinion on another Bantam SG. There was a huge improvement in casting distance on all three reels. And the one with the bushings is now casting equally as well as the two with bearings.
has anybody ever used super slick slick stuff, or for grease just a general purpose heavy duty grease or red n tacky....are these just not good to use
Quote from: Johnj67 on April 22, 2017, 05:03:24 PM
has anybody ever used super slick slick stuff, or for grease just a general purpose heavy duty grease or red n tacky....are these just not good to use
You don't want heavy sticky greases or tacky greases. Just look for Marine greases like most outboard dealers stock. Not the heavy wheel bearing & axle greases. Check the outboard dealers like Yamaha which most on here use or Mercury, Evenrude, etc. One tube will last a long time.
Quote from: mo65 on February 24, 2017, 06:44:01 PM
I'm currently using the Okuma Cal's...it looks like Cal's...smells like Cal's...and Ted says it tastes like Cal's too! :D ;D ;) 8)
LOL why was Ted tasting it?
Quote from: mizmo67 on April 22, 2017, 08:31:39 PMLOL why was Ted tasting it?
Survival training for the Zombie Apocalypse . . .
Well I did a taste test, and the flavor Is similar to grease from mesquite/hickory smoked bacon !! ;D
Yamalubes color was a turn off so didn't try it..
Does the madness never end ;D
Quote from: Rickb on April 24, 2017, 03:08:59 AM
Yamalubes color was a turn off so didn't try it..
Yamaha makes different lubes for different purposes. You need to get the Yamaha Marine grease which is a shade of blue. It is labeled "Marine" grease.
I think the best lubricant is grease that has NLGI of 00 ( EP is even better )
that is the perfect viscosity with which you can fill up the reel and it does it all
I know this is an old post but as a new member I am slowly going through all the posts. I use a reel repair business ( when lost ) here in Brisbane, Australia called D & H reel repairs. Duncan ( the owner ) who is a bit of a whiz "kid" especially when it comes ABU Garcia Ambassadeur reels told me he uses lanolin based oils but what he uses for grease I have no idea. He also gave me a tip on how to get the spool on my Ambassadeur 6500C3 running faster without upgrading the bearings. He used a 3/8" drill bit ( I believe ) on the nylon gear end of the spool to make opening for the shaft a fraction larger. Holy mackerel what a change in spinning time. Personally I use baby grade vaseline on all my external metal parts and screws which seems to protect them well so far.
Quote from: privateone on May 03, 2017, 10:52:17 PM
Personally I use baby grade vaseline on all my external metal parts and screws which seems to protect them well so far.
Doesn't the handle grasp slip out of your hands? :)
Do they still make the x treme reel + lube and if not any recommendations for a dry spool bearing lubricant?
Quote from: PennDaddy on May 04, 2017, 07:06:17 PM
Do they still make the x treme reel + lube and if not any recommendations for a dry spool bearing lubricant?
TSI321 or TSI301 is what most folks here use.
~
I'm sure the Xtreme reel+ is no more. It was some amazing stuff..!!
(http://www.pierandsurf.com/fishing-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=15603&d=1435005752)
Tight Lines !
Hello everyone, I just recently found this site and all the information is awesome. I only fish freshwater and mainly use shimano reels. I have been servicing my reels for several years now with no problems but am looking fo advice on a couple of things. My biggest concern has always been the pinion bearing on what to do after cleaning it. I do not have a bearing packer (although I would love to have one) currently I have been soaking them in Rocket Fuel liquid grease which seems to work pretty good. What is y'alls opinion of this? I ordered some tsi321 will this be a better option for the pinion and handle bearing? Rather than the liquid grease. Also all my reels have ceramic spool bearings which I use hedgehog anf zpi oil on. Will the tsi321 work better or should i use both. Not a fan of running them dry. Definitely plan on using the 321 on the worm gear seems like the best method I've seen to keep the grime out. Thanks any help is greatly appreciated
maybe i'm out in left field, i haven't read all the postings on lubricants, iv'e been using penn blue grease, and penn oil and haven't had a problem, the oil really works great on losening stiff handle knobs, i say why experiment or try to cut cost , lord knows we spend enough money on fishing and supplies, i personally think the penn lubes are great, just my take on the matter. harryk
Once bearings are treated with tsi321 how do you clean them when you service the reel again? Or do you just reapply. Thanks
I use naphtha to dissolve the TSI away. You can reapply unless it is collecting gunk.
-steve
Just serviced my reels for the SOA trip. I don't have the money or time to find the "best" oil and grease, but have to say just follow the recommendations here and grease the corrosive surfaces with something and you will be several times better off. As a start, that's going to give you a huge advantage on corrosion. Fished my JX out of the box and had to deal with a few things a few years ago. Followed the recommendations here with regular marine grease and no issues for the last couple of years. My advice is to coat them with "something" and gain a huge advantage as long as you service them yearly. Finding the best stuff out there may let you skip some service time on some parts and add extra insurance, but bottom line, the basic protection will give you a huge leg up. Just my thoughts.
With regards to lubricants,my fishing is always saltwater and seldom use conventional casting reels,my casting is done with spinning reels where free spool is of no consecuence.Trollng,live bait,jigging and casting hard lures are may main fishing styles.I disassembled a reel and cleaned ball bearings with degreaser,water,pressured air and acetone the last to leave the driest possible surface.Placed the bearing on a dowel (tight inner) and free rolled the bearing,it rolled for about 7 seconds.After placing a drop of TSI 321 and waiting so it would evaporate the bearing rolled a couple of times and stopped.This was repeated with other bearings with similar result.Since free spool is not that important to me I now treat my bearings with TSI 321 first and pack them with Yamaha blue grease.I find this gives my bearings the best protection against salt water.As far as liquid lubricants I still use TSI 321 and Daiwa Ultimate Tournament drag grease on the drags.The last a bit expensive coming from Japan,an alternative drag grease is a product found on e-bay called Eel Slime,very similar to Daiwa's at a third of the price.
Well Pals thats my five cent worth,Love this site and your feedback.
Cal's drag grease is cheaper than Daiwa's and readily available from several places including Smoothdrag.
I am currently using Mercury Quick Silver 4-2-C (with Teflon) for everything including drags - It seems to be working very well.
TSI 321 for oil. A drop of CorrosionX for ARBs - some oils and greases can make them slip.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on August 06, 2017, 01:08:18 PM
Cal's drag grease is cheaper than Daiwa's and readily available from several places including Smoothdrag.
I am currently using Mercury Quick Silver 4-2-C (with Teflon) for everything including drags - It seems to be working very well.
TSI 321 for oil. A drop of CorrosionX for ARBs - some oils and greases can make them slip.
Hi Tiddlerbasher,
I use a similar overall approach.
A friend of mine who has been in the game forever, gave me some 2-4-C to try but I have a sensitive sniffer and I could not get past the smell.
Otherwise I might be using it myself.
~
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on August 06, 2017, 01:08:18 PM
ARBs - some oils and greases can make them slip.
I hear lots of members talking about anti-reverse slipping with grease. This applies to dogs also? Does "slipping" mean that the anti-reverse is mechanically engaged, but becomes disengaged because of the grease? Trying to visualize this...
With the silent Abu type dogs they sometimes can get hung-up if too much grease is used - I use just a light smear and don't get problems.
Never had a problem with spring operated dogs. If that helps clarify what I meant - Chris.
Too much grease in the dog area will lead to problems, keeping the dog from mechanically engaging.
It sticks to the plate or other mating surface it is riding on or against.
The Anti reverse bearings are another issue. They don't like a lot of lube. They need very small amounts of lubrication to keep them working properly.
Roller brngs in the ARB have to be loose and a bit sloppy to work. Grease can prevent them from moving in the race and binding which engages the arb function
Quote from: Lunker Larry on August 08, 2017, 01:12:09 PM
Roller brngs in the ARB have to be loose and a bit sloppy to work. Grease can prevent them from moving in the race and binding which engages the arb function
Personally, I would take strong, reliable, mechanical Dogs over IAR, all day, any day . . . I don't care if it's not "instant anti-reverse" or isn't "silent" !
Quote from: Lunker Larry on August 08, 2017, 01:12:09 PM
Roller brngs in the ARB have to be loose and a bit sloppy to work. Grease can prevent them from moving in the race and binding which engages the arb function
Thanks, Larry. I get it now.
Quote from: Lunker Larry on August 08, 2017, 01:12:09 PM
Roller brngs in the ARB have to be loose and a bit sloppy to work. Grease can prevent them from moving in the race and binding which engages the arb function
This IS true in particularly cold scenarios but for normal fishing conditions lighter greases are ideal for corrosion protection for clutches in saltwater applications depending on the make (never lube any Shimano spinning reel clutch).
Penn Grease works perfectly fine in other ARB (light) as long as temps don't get too close to freezing.
Accurate has long used Cal's cut with a little corrosion-x in their's.
I would never use grease to lube the clutch in a dedicated freshwater reel (in my neck of the woods that generally means high altitude and cold in spring and fall). A little Corrosion-x is more than fine as corrosion in freshwater is of minimal concern.
But in the salt, your favorite flavor maybe thinned a bit with oil is ideal, imo. Clutches get destroyed in one trip in the salt if not protected, if it gets wet and is not serviced for some time afterwards.
What you are really trying to protect is the **clutch sleeve** as they are typically some soft carbon steel with chrome plating and are the typical source of the origin of trouble. Be sure to lube it inside (where it is keyed to the shaft) and out (where it will have contact with the clutch rollers).
I recently disassembled a friend's Shimano Sahara spinning reel to replace some parts, clean & lube it and the roller clutch assembly unit had "Do Not Oil" printed on it, so I didn't. He only uses it for freshwater so I didn't think further about it.
Hi...have read tons about corrosion x and reel x and believe corrosion x makes the reel x but my question is what is the difference between the 2???Thought one might be for saltwater reels and other for freshwater?? Manythanks for any info...
Here's some info I've seen on it from another website and I believe it came from someone at U.S. Corrosion Technologies:
QuoteEverything that CorrosionX does – it's incomparable metal-on-metal lubrication, its ability to prevent rust and corrosion, the Polar Bonding that causes CorrosionX to penetrate (rust, powder fouling, primer salts, whatever) to reach the clean metal underneath – all of that comes into play in a firearm, which is why CorrosionX is the perfect product for firearms. ReelX does all that, but to the core CorrosionX formula we add an exotic EP (extreme pressure) additive that is activated by triboenergy (the heat energy of friction) to chemically modify metal and metal alloy wear surfaces. So basically, the more pressure you put on a wear surface, the slicker it gets. So as amazing of a lubricant as CorrosionX is, under high loads, ReelX is actually a half step better.
I got the larger spray bottle of CorrosionX because it is so highly regarded by so many on the alantani forums here and this is where I first found out about it. I'm using it for various purposes including adding to Yamaha blue grease. I also bought a small bottle of ReelX with the applicator tip just to try it, but I think for most of my reel maintenance needs the regular CorrosionX will do the job for me --plus, the ReelX is a lot more expensive. CorrosionX really is good stuff (I used it on my lawn tractor yesterday to free up a corroded bolt that I thought I was going to have to cut off with a hacksaw).
thanks for info...have been using reel butter with no complaints but heard so much about the X products I thought I would investigate..
Quote from: Noviceman on September 01, 2017, 06:24:21 PM
thanks for info...have been using reel butter with no complaints but heard so much about the X products I thought I would investigate..
Don't overthink it for freshwater. We spray our reels down with freshwater after a day in the salt and think it is wonderful stuff.
Ultimate simplicity for fresh and keep it nice and light like 3 in 1 for oil and reel butter for gears (or bearing grease lightened with oil).
Saltwater: Corrosion-x and marine grease plus Cal's for drags.
Thanks for the advise....learning lots on this site...
Any opinions on Lucas Reel oil??
Any reel oil will work for general purpose. If you want a premium oil for bearings go for 321 synthetic lubricant. Rudy
This sales rep who travels all over the world gave me some free samples,,,,so I'm sending it to a lab in florida to be tested by an expert ;D
No test results yet from Florida so I sent it to a lab in Pennsylvania ;D
Could it be Food Grade heavy grease?
I got some in the mail, Thanks..!
I haven't researched yet but it sure feels like a synthetic silicone based food safe grease. Its very slick and creamy. Looks good to eat.
Edit..
All I had to do was Google.
Aluminum complex grease. #1/#2 NLGI. This means its light not thick and tacky.
I will try some in my little Shimano Sustain 2500 spinning reel. I'm sure it will be fine for a year or so. It will probably turn dark quickly.
Keith
http://www.swepcolube.com/sites/default/files/package_inserts/swepco_115_food_machinery_grease_sales_brochure_j11199.pdf
Quote from: handi2 on January 25, 2018, 12:47:16 AM
I got some in the mail, Thanks..!
I haven't researched yet but it sure feels like a synthetic silicone based food safe grease. Its very slick and creamy. Looks good to eat.
Edit..
All I had to do was Google.
Aluminum complex grease. #1/#2 NLGI. This means its light not thick and tacky.
I will try some in my little Shimano Sustain 2500 spinning reel. I'm sure it will be fine for a year or so. It will probably turn dark quickly.
Keith
http://www.swepcolube.com/sites/default/files/package_inserts/swepco_115_food_machinery_grease_sales_brochure_j11199.pdf
thanks Keith for your help,,,,I hope this stuff works good,,,,,,you never know about products or how you can misuse them,,,,that's the fun part ;D
Quote from: handi2 on January 25, 2018, 12:47:16 AM
I got some in the mail, Thanks..!
I haven't researched yet but it sure feels like a synthetic silicone based food safe grease.
Its very slick and creamy. Looks good to eat.
Does it come in vanilla?
~
I have been using Mercury Quicksilver 2-4-C with Teflon (PTFE). I was looking to buy some more so shopped around for prices. Ouch the price has shot up over 20% in the last year.
I don't just use this for reels it gets used on everything around the house and garden.
So I started looking around for alternatives. Criteria were simple - Must contain Teflon (for drag use), no thicker than NLGI 2, low water washout, provide protection against salt water, no silicon (fine for plumbing but not for fishing stuff imho), high drop point (in case the drags should get hot ::)), preferably fully synthetic, non-toxic, and a few other ad hoc criteria.
Checked loads of sites, read countless specs. I was mostly put off by the quantities I was expected to buy - I don't need 10kgs of grease (plus shipping costs). Many of the greases had restricted shipping requirements because they are considered hazardous.
I eventually found this product:
https://www.smithandallan.com/products/industrial-grease/4640-smith-and-allan-teflube-plus-2-grease/
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371874087883
Just received a 400gm cartridge. Initial impressions - virtually no odor - not too tacky but stayed in place when run under a tap (yeah I know shouldn't really be doing that ::)) - Very translucent no added colour. Felt ok when rubbed between my fingers :-\
So I slapped some on the drags of a small spinner (easiest route for a quick check) - Smooth as silk - no different to the Quicksilver or Cals for that matter.
Obviously early days yet - but looks promising at a reasonable price - Cals is over £30 in the UK :o
Quote from: exp2000 on January 25, 2018, 02:50:17 AM
Quote from: handi2 on January 25, 2018, 12:47:16 AM
I got some in the mail, Thanks..!
I haven't researched yet but it sure feels like a synthetic silicone based food safe grease.
Its very slick and creamy. Looks good to eat.
Does it come in vanilla?
~
I worked in an ice cream factory for a short time. They had special edible lubricants for the machinery.
I'm trying an oil that says it cleans, lubricates and protects.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on January 25, 2018, 09:29:19 PM
I'm trying an oil that says it cleans, lubricates and protects.
-steve
Mine says tastes great
and less filling ::) (Manteca)
Quote from: oc1 on January 25, 2018, 09:29:19 PM
I'm trying an oil that says it cleans, lubricates and protects.
-steve
I'm sitting back, waitng for the "horror stories" and "carnage reports" . . . LOL !
Tight Lines !
Hi.
Long time lurker here.
What can i say i just like to read.
I have a couple of questions regarding lubricants.
Any one using the corrosion-x grease instead of the Yamaha Marine grease?
What do you use to thin TSI-321
What do you use to thin the grease.
Great Site.!!
Thank you. ;D
i've seen corrosion x grease and it's probably fine, but i have been using yamaha for so long i'm reluctant to change just to change. for tsi 321 and greases, i don't ever thin them at all, but other guys do. i'm sure the other guys will chime in! and welcome!!!!
For thinning grease I use CorrosionX - I only really do this for small spinners where the grease maybe too thick
For TSI321 I thin with IPA (Isopropryl Alcohol 99% pure it doesn't attack plastics like some solvents) - 4 or 5 parts IPA to 1 part TSI321 - I only do this for spool bearings on a casting reel - otherwise I use it neat. It's also excellent on tool joints like pliers/cutters etc. Hope that helps - Chris.
Quote from: alantani on February 14, 2018, 04:48:15 PM
i've seen corrosion x grease and it's probably fine, but i have been using yamaha for so long i'm reluctant to change just to change. for tsi 321 and greases, i don't ever thin them at all, but other guys do. i'm sure the other guys will chime in! and welcome!!!!
Thank you Alan
I need to order 1 of your tools and a set of bearing packers.
Do you know if Reel Speed is still making the bearing Pullers?
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on February 14, 2018, 05:04:20 PM
For thinning grease I use CorrosionX - I only really do this for small spinners where the grease maybe too thick
For TSI321 I thin with IPA (Isopropryl Alcohol 99% pure it doesn't attack plastics like some solvents) - 4 or 5 parts IPA to 1 part TSI321 - I only do this for spool bearings on a casting reel - otherwise I use it neat. It's also excellent on tool joints like pliers/cutters etc. Hope that helps - Chris.
IPA, Exactly what i was looking for!
Thanks.
FYI:
I bought these to cut TSI 321 with IPA,
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shop-accessories-supplies/liquid-squeeze-bottles/needle-oiler-bottles-prod44434.aspx
the mix works well in just about everything, I am very impressed with it TSI.
Quote from: Gobi King on February 14, 2018, 05:19:45 PM
FYI:
I bought these to cut TSI 321 with IPA,
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shop-accessories-supplies/liquid-squeeze-bottles/needle-oiler-bottles-prod44434.aspx
the mix works well in just about everything, I am very impressed with it TSI.
Thank you Gobi.!
Quote from: glos on May 03, 2017, 04:58:10 PM
I think the best lubricant is grease that has NLGI of 00 ( EP is even better )
that is the perfect viscosity with which you can fill up the reel and it does it all
Old post , I know but , you might like Maxima 80916. I've been using it with excellent results. Under $8 and it's blue.
http://www.maximausa.com/product/waterproof-grease/
I'm a bass angler.
How about using Triple-guard or 2-4-C on drive gear and pinion of baitcast reels?
If it's for freshwater only I would go with TSI321 on everything (cut the 321 with IPA for spool bearings)
Doesn't the IPA evaporate and stop diluting?
Quote from: wfjord on July 11, 2018, 04:50:58 PM
Quote from: nelz on July 11, 2018, 04:28:27 PM
Doesn't the IPA evaporate and stop diluting?
Yes, it evaporates and leaves a lighter coating of TSI on the bearings.
Also, the capillary action will be better for the thinner liquid to spread.
I going to apply a liberal amount to my honda ridgeline's rear diffy drain and fill bolts which are corroded frozen.
Hi everyone, I have a question regarding quantum hot sauce grease, as you may know, the factory that supplied the grease had a fire accident and currently the product is no longer in production. I would like to know your recommendations on what other "Low Viscosity" grease to use instead of Quantum Hot Sauce Grease, until the product is back in the market. the reason I like the Quantum grease is that it is low viscosity so I can use it in bearing as well as small size spinners (1000 to 2500).
Welcome Karim to the reel addicts website. ;D
I've used Abu Garcia reel grease in the past and it's very light, should fit your need. I'm sure the guys here will have plenty of other options though.
I'll stay with the Penn lubes. From the original Penn reel oil (remember the little green or blue tubes that came in the box) Spinfisher lube, original blue grease, Muscle Grease, XR-7, and the present oil and grease they have all worked to keep my reels in good repair. Break free CLP also get's use.
Hot Sauce is the most volatile oil I've used. It will crawl out of the bottle if you let it. It doesn't slow down the bearing at all, but it doesn't last very long either. If you want to experiment you could try one of the spray "dry" lubes. Most of it evaporates away leaving a thin layer of lubricant.
I have never tried mixing TSI with alcohol but will do so. We read that TSI 310 is like TSI 321 mixed with a solvent. We also read that TSI 310 is not safe to use with some plastics. Isopropyl is safe with most plastics. It seems like a hydrocarbon like naphtha might be better for diluting TSI 321 though because it would dissolve easier and not leave any water behind when it evaporates. Might be worth trying that too.
-steve
Thanks guys for the help. I will give Abu Grease a try. Currently I lube the bearings with Corrosion X, it protects the bearing but it might not be the best in terms of smoothness.
I've read on the forum here a lot about TSI lubes, and I'm thinking to give it a try as well.
Quote from: glos on May 03, 2017, 04:58:10 PM
I think the best lubricant is grease that has NLGI of 00 ( EP is even better )
that is the perfect viscosity with which you can fill up the reel and it does it all
no, just tried it on my 3 new okuma surf 8k-s
too runny - leaky..
one 0 is probably better, NLGI 0
Greetings to fellow hobbyists! Greases with PTFE SSL by Synco emulsify and seize when operating in a humid environment (rain!). The same tip about CalS lubrication - catching fish in the rain - the reel wedges. I drew attention to the ReelX Soft and Medium lubricant, but in the datasheet (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4JXOtP3XxetTERsSnIzT25QWk0/view) I did not see information about the content of PTFE in its composition. There is concern - how to behave when working in the rain! ?? Alan already exhausted his questions (difficulty of translation!) And I ask for help from everyone who has data on the presence of Teflon in its composition. Respectfully!
Grease is so mysterious. I thought all oil and grease would emulsify inside a reel if it became wet.
-steve
Oh.... and welcome.
Quote from: snowmen70 on December 30, 2019, 04:59:04 PM
Greetings to fellow hobbyists! Greases with PTFE SSL by Synco emulsify and seize when operating in a humid environment (rain!). The same tip about CalS lubrication - catching fish in the rain - the reel wedges. I drew attention to the ReelX Soft and Medium lubricant, but in the datasheet (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4JXOtP3XxetTERsSnIzT25QWk0/view) I did not see information about the content of PTFE in its composition. There is concern - how to behave when working in the rain! ?? Alan already exhausted his questions (difficulty of translation!) And I ask for help from everyone who has data on the presence of Teflon in its composition. Respectfully!
PTFE (Teflon is a trade name) is extremely resistant to absorbing water. I am not a chemist, but I would be surprised if its presence was a contributing factor in a grease retaining water and/or causing gears to jam up. A grease emulsified with water will loose some of its valuable properties, but it seems that it should still have too a low coefficient of friction to jam up a reel if the water is not freezing and the parts are not heavily coated in grease.
If you want exact specifications and are willing to stay away from reel specific products, greases that are used in industrial settings will have data sheets that list standardized (ATSM) test results for water resistance, among other things. The world is full of lubricated machinery that works just fine in the rain. However, some greases can be a bit too thick for many reels, so if you use too much of the wrong grease, this can be a problem, especially in colder weather (I see your name is Snowmen). Moving thick grease around wastes energy.
In more general terms, greases that are labeled for use in wet or marine environments will be your best bet. These greases will not absorb moisture for a longer period of service. Also look at viscocity at your operating temperature. Some greases are labeled for cold weather. for example Cal's has a regular and cold weather grease products.
Hope this helps,
-J
Hi guys! Hi jurelometer! Thanks for your thoughts on my question. The gear transmission of the spinning reels during rotation serves as a "mixer" and "whips" the grease with water if water or condensate enters the reel. This is how the emulsion happens. All lubricants are emulsified, some more, others less. Are more susceptible to emulsification. I'm talking about gears of spinning reels now. Especially - alloy (aluminum + zinc + silicon!).
Here is an example of a failed SSL by Synco test. After servicing the gear train, the coil was specially lowered into the water, moved to the freezer, worked, then moved to the battery and worked again ... All this was done at home. The coil is jammed due to Teflon grease filler (PTFE!). On the same coil, another synthetic lubricant (polyalpholein!) Was used, which quietly passed the test. Having met ReelX grease on the pages of this forum, I was puzzled by the question - is there Teflon (fluoroplast!) In this grease? If he was there, I would not purchase it for maintenance of the spinning reel! Thank you and Alan for the answers. And I apologize for the automatic translation from Russian into English - the machine cannot correctly convey human thoughts. Respectfully to all!
Quote from: snowmen70 on December 31, 2019, 01:45:47 AM
Hi guys! Hi jurelometer! Thanks for your thoughts on my question. The gear transmission of the spinning reels during rotation serves as a "mixer" and "whips" the grease with water if water or condensate enters the reel. This is how the emulsion happens. All lubricants are emulsified, some more, others less. Are more susceptible to emulsification. I'm talking about gears of spinning reels now. Especially - alloy (aluminum + zinc + silicon!).
Here is an example of a failed SSL by Synco test. After servicing the gear train, the coil was specially lowered into the water, moved to the freezer, worked, then moved to the battery and worked again ... All this was done at home. The coil is jammed due to Teflon grease filler (PTFE!). On the same coil, another synthetic lubricant (polyalpholein!) Was used, which quietly passed the test. Having met ReelX grease on the pages of this forum, I was puzzled by the question - is there Teflon (fluoroplast!) In this grease? If he was there, I would not purchase it for maintenance of the spinning reel! Thank you and Alan for the answers. And I apologize for the automatic translation from Russian into English - the machine cannot correctly convey human thoughts. Respectfully to all!
Grease is made up of a base oil, thickener (usually a soap), and additives.
From what I have read, the thickener is primarily responsible for demulsibity.
Polyalpholein is a synthetic oil that is used as a base for some greases.
PTFE is an additive to some greases. The particles are extremely small and the amount of PTFE in grease is very low. It is heavier than oil or water. If the PTFE managed to separate, it would settle due to gravity, and would make a small harmless layer at the lowest point.
There are probably many differences in the greases that you have tested, so you may want to reconsider the conclusion of PTFE as the culprit. At least you should not be comparing PTFE vs. polyalpholein.
If you disagree with this and only want to know if Corrosionx grease contains PTFE, you can contact the manufacturer and ask them.
That main gear in the photo looks pretty badly damaged. Corrosion?
-J
as per the UK distributor CX Grease does not contain PTFE
www.corrosion-x.co.uk/marine/
Greetings to colleagues! I agree with the opinion of those who consider the cause of emulsification - base oil filler. In Super Lube, the filler became the cause of gear jamming! Unlike American and other global manufacturers, it is possible for us to get any product information of interest, any test data and characteristics that interest you. Buying grease from you in the USA or Europe is like buying an "invisible product"! You will only find out what you bought when you start using it. Did you spend the money profitably, or just threw it away! :o :-\
Here is an example of PTFE lubrication data sold in Russia:
(https://d.radikal.ru/d11/2001/e2/48158774d8bd.png)
ReelX grease: To my chagrin, I was in a hurry to buy in Germany. Huge shipping costs, but the saddest thing is that it is a mineral lubricant, not a synthetic one and there is no data on its behavior in the cold season, at 10.4 ° F
. Will it thicken and stop working - is unknown! The manufacturer made a "military secret" from the datasheet and guards it very strictly! If any of the forum participants Alan can help with information about ReelX grease, does it become more viscous in the cool season or does not change with changing ambient temperature? How long can it be stored? Did any of the participants use it in their spinning, inertialess reels Shimano&Daiwa?
Here is my experience which lubes/greases,
I have 2 girls and I have on the road a lot for work, so most of my toys are neglected or barely used few times in few years.
Engine oil, rear end, grease... dino or regular base ones nearly always went to curd. I switch to synthetic and what do you know, it even brought hair back to my head!
What it is worth, peak synthetic marine grease is available at pepboys for few dollars only.
Quote Unlike American and other global manufacturers, it is possible for us to get any product information of interest, any test data and characteristics that interest you.
See, now, that`s a new information for me, and a pleasant one. That`s real freedom.
yeah, the freedom for Russian manufacturers & distributors to lie,
just like the West (before, only the Russian government could do it ;D)
I can still read Russian well enough, so I don't need to figure out how to Google-translate a PDF:
DOES NOT SAY PTFE-BASED!!! says, "with thickener based on aluminum complex
[whatever that is... prob., aluminum compound... prob., AlO2 dust... so much, for alleged full disclosure]
...with added solid lubricants including PTFE" -- that's technically true,
if you dust a few grains of PTFE into an industrial vat of budget grease -- what are the other solids?
also says, "functional in humid and dusty environments" ::)
I'm dealing with wet environments & I'm mighty dubious of the "dusty claim"
I looked all over but did I see a post where it said to not use "food grade" PTFE on reels?
LL
Which bearings need packing. 90% of my work is fresh water reels.
Hi Larry, inox is made from lanolin, a grease extracted from wool, they use it in butcher shops, also for fresh water reals, bearings & bushes, Inox MX4 should work good, or a few drops of TSI 304 or 321, cheers Don.
Thanks DB. Appreciated
I'm seeing aqua shield cut with oil for gears,,,? But oil I have used slick 50 on knives and works great,,,,, :D has anyone else tried slick 50 for oil,,,,,, ;D
well, it's for engines -- correct? so whatever it is/has is intended for much higher temperatures
I have cal Grease light. Is it Good for Carbon washers?
Yes. Cal's is the stuff. Does "light" mean the color? I have tan and purple colors. The purple is maybe lower in viscosity and made for colder ambient temperatures.
Yes Cals is the best for carbon fibre washers, but not a good lube for anything else, cheers Don.
Quote from: Donnyboat on November 18, 2020, 11:02:50 PM
but not a good lube for anything else, cheers Don.
I guess you are saying Cal doesn't know what he is doing when he lubes his custom reels or does services. Rudy
Quote from: Donnyboat on November 18, 2020, 11:02:50 PM
Yes Cals is the best for carbon fibre washers, but not a good lube for anything else, cheers Don.
Rudy is exactly correct —
Cal's reel and drag grease is good for all areas (inside or outside) of Conventional Saltwater reels. Drags, gears, screws, all working parts. Exceptions, IMO — would be crank knobs, gear sleeves, and dogs. For these, I would recommend TSI321 because of potential sticking issues due to grease as opposed to oil.
These are also excellent for plastics as well as seals like rubber "O" rings.
I will use it in a pinch — particularly on Internationals or large Shimano or Okuma Conventionals. But I use Yamaha Marine Grade grease 95% of the time. The Cal's grease is very expensive if one is doing a lot of reels. Yamaha is just as good at 25% of the price.
However, I always use Cal's for HT-100 or CF drag discs — nothing else is nearly as good.
Cal Sheets and his son are "the" expert's in their field when it comes to upgrades and blue-printing a reel.
When they put their name on a product — no need to look any further. They are good people who know what they are about — and have been doing this work successfully for decades. They run a good service and operation.
Best,
Fred
WOW !,
34 PAGES !!!!!
Please, if your new to the board, read the frequently asked questions. Hope I can help you as much as I've been helped. Hold on...
Cal's Drag grease is the recommended lubricant for drag washers.
Marine grade grease is recommended for internal surfaces inside the reel (doesn't give minerals a stopping/starting point)
TSI - 321 seems to be the viewer's choice for bearings
There ya go
I've read all 34 pages and am really impressed by several things. First I guess would be options and opinions. Lots of options and lots of opinions. I have one of my own. Now, I've seen posted in the 34 pages several times people asking about a product called Kroil. It is a penetrating oil. IMHO, one bad #### penetrating oil
I was introduced to Kroil about 10 years ago by a feller working in a coal fired power plant. For those who don't know, just the operating of a coal fired power plant causes the said power plant to eat itself. So, maintenance is not periodically. It's daily. This feller and his team and plant use this Kroil oil on everything. Couple of shots, let it set a little bit, overnight if needed, but whatever you put it on is coming loose. For the life of me, I don't know why I chose the HVAC field to kill me, but I did. I use this product quite, quite, quite often. AC units in an industrial environment have to be repaired a hell of a lot more often than the one on your house.
"Where's this going Mic ? you might ask yourself". Well, just hold on....
I was raised on a farm and still work on rusty old tractors from time to time. Got an electric ½" impact and you want to take the wheels off, Spray the lugs with this and crack open your adult beverage and then come back and take the rusty old tractor nuts off. It's that good. Hold on...
No pictures for proof, but my son and I were fishing salt water in Rockport Tx a few years ago. My ABU 55K was instantly jerked into the bay. We casted around for about 20 minutes trying to snag it. Nope ! Next day about noon and I was still mad about losing that reel, told Travis, my son to roll'em up. We're going home. He caught the line from that reel. It sat in salt water for 18+ hours. Got it out, washed with fresh water and took it completely apart at the truck. Put it in a Ziplock bag and sprayed the hell out of it with Kroil oil. It sat on a shelf in the barn for about 6 months before I washed it down and put it back together. Worked like my Grandma's Singer sewing machine.
You can spray Kroil oil on you trailer ball of your truck and in the morning it'll be on the front bumper....yeah, I'm from Texas. We exaggerate a bit. Just a bit...
Now, I have been reading quite a bet here on the Boss's Forum and when I see something that catches my eye or mind, I usually ask. Stupid question or not. On page 27, EZC Dave posted a point about it's breaking torque. WOW ! Really impressive I think. Now, Like I said I keep my mind and eyes open. When you see a feller that you look up to in this little world of ours using a product that you love, you just gotta ask him his opinion about it.
So, Mr. Fred Oakes,
Do you suffer from Old Rusty Tractor Nuts ?
I seen the Kroil in your shop and I was impressed Sir. Can I ask what you use it on or how do you use it ?
Okay,
Just so it's known. I'm not a sponsor for Kroil Oil. No nickel or trade was given to me to speak my opinion. Although, I could be bought off pretty cheaply if they wanted too !
Last night my sister called and asked if I could take a look at the leaking drain under her sink. 50+ year old black iron pipe and rusted to hell and back, Brother in law tried taking the 1 1/2" nipple out with a 16" pipe wrench. Damn near crushed it in half, but he left it there for me because he couldn't get it out.
Got there, sprayed it with some Kroil oil and made me a cup of coffee and said hi to my sister. About 10 minutes later, I took the nipple out in about 10 seconds. This stuff works. Don't have any idea what it would do to plastic ? It smells horrible, but it sure works
I did notice today that Justin in Auckland New Zealand used Kroil oil during a takedown of a Daiwa Saltiga Z40 in his tutorial for removing a salt sealed and rusted bearing. Another feller I admire in this reel world.
Justin, how often do you use Kroil oil for take downs ?
I'm not pushing Kroil oil. Just passing on something I've learned that might help someone else
Mic
Quote from: Mic on February 09, 2021, 05:39:29 PM
You can spray Kroil oil on you trailer ball of your truck and in the morning it'll be on the front bumper....yeah, I'm from Texas. We exaggerate a bit. Just a bit...
I seen the Kroil in your shop and I was impressed Sir. Can I ask what you use it on or how do you use it ?
Mic —
A can of Kroil was given to me by a good member here. It is old school — and super effective to soak a stuck reel part in — like you said — it never fails — it just works. I am on my third can in 4 years.
As for Texas —
Two cousins were both ranchers. One stayed in Texas, and one moved to California.
The Texas cousin decided to visit his California cousin — after 40 years of not seeing each other.
As they were walking around the California ranch, the Texan asked his cousin just how big his spread was —
The California cousin proudly pointed out distant landmarks that indicated the corners of his property.
Then California asked Texas — how big is your ranch in Texas?
"Well Cuz, I get up way before the sun comes up, make a thermos of coffee and some lunch, then hop in the truck and start driving. When the sun sets — I still haven't got to the end of my spread...what do you think about that?"
California cousin just sez — "It sounds like your ready for a new truck"...
Best, Fred
Ok!, I'mina get me some Kroil. Wait a minute though, WD-40 is known to emulsify when mixed with water, right, or is that just grease? Also, it gums up over time, after application. What about Kroil?
Quote from: Gfish on February 10, 2021, 09:41:45 PM
Ok!, I'mina get me some Kroil.
If you look at all the ebay listings for Kroll you can find one that will ship it to Hawaii. Amazon will not ship it to us. The stuff must have a lot of solvents and vapors.
-s
I don't know if they exclude Hawaii or not, but you can order direct from Kano Labs:
https://www.kroil.com/where-to-buy/ (https://www.kroil.com/where-to-buy/)
Quote from: Gfish on February 10, 2021, 09:41:45 PM
Ok!, I'mina get me some Kroil. Wait a minute though, WD-40 is known to emulsify when mixed with water, right, or is that just grease? Also, it gums up over time, after application. What about Kroil?
Gfish,
I have no idea what it does when contacting fresh or salt water. Now, that being said. When Travis and I were making monthly trips to Rockport, I would soak my reels in a bucket of fresh water when we got home for a day or so. Take them out and spray them with Kroil oil. Then put them in the barn.
When that ABU spent 18 hours in the bay, I didn't look at it for damage, I was just proud to get it back. Ziplock bag and 6 months or so on a shelf in the barn. Worked great. Wish I still had it....
Get you some. You won't be disappointed in it at all. It does work.
Mic
Nice red.
-steve
I see no mention of Mil-Comm TW25B. I use this synthetic grease for 2 reasons, I use it for guns and it's on-hand. It's pricey at $9/oz but the reels feel smooth, the grease last a long time and not much is needed.
yup, plenty of good options out there.
Does it have fumes that will kill you? lol I tried Ardent Reel Kleen cleaner in the past. It worked great but the fumes were terrible. Could not use it inside the shop. Even a little spray. Scary stuff. Got rid of it.
when i'm working with oils from a dropper bottle or greases from a tub, i don't worry about fumes to much with the stuff that i have. when i'm cleaning bearings, i use corrosion x and compressed air to get it to spin, then do the final clean out with carb cleaner and more compressed air to get it perfect. that means more compressed air that spreads everything. i do this at an open garage door. i also wear gloves all the time. personally, i think that there is no health risk by working with this stuff in this manner. still, having survived cancer once, i would rather not tempt fate again.
The Mil-Comm TW25B has very little odor. If it did I wouldn't use it on guns, when I mainly use it on the slide components.
Hi guys, I need a good substitute in Europe (EU) of Shimano grease SR-G DG13, for my Shimano Stella FA/SW.
DG13 is no more availabe in all stores I have seen on ebay/Amazon, but only from Japon/Korea at very high cost.
What could I use for maintenance of gears?
A reel service shop sent me the grease (no name) he uses but it's very sticky and the reels I tryed on run badly.
For ball bearings I still use proper shimano oil.
Thanks
Costas
any marine grease should be fine.
Quote from: Cost_spin on January 17, 2023, 08:09:13 PMHi guys, I need a good substitute in Europe (EU) of Shimano grease SR-G DG13, for my Shimano Stella FA/SW.
DG13 is no more availabe in all stores I have seen on ebay/Amazon, but only from Japon/Korea at very high cost.
What could I use for maintenance of gears?
A reel service shop sent me the grease (no name) he uses but it's very sticky and the reels I tryed on run badly.
For ball bearings I still use proper shimano oil.
Thanks
Costas
I now use Shimano Premium grease. It's way expensive but goes a long way. It's actually made for the fork bearings in their bicycles. Impervious to salt
Quote from: handi2 on January 17, 2023, 11:49:42 PM----
I now use Shimano Premium grease. It's way expensive but goes a long way. It's actually made for the fork bearings in their bicycles. Impervious to salt
good, it's available online here; just to avoid another sticky grease, did you use it on Stellas without problem?
@Alantani: I found this Blu marine grease in the store in my city,
bku_marine_grease_CFG.jpg
The specs say viscosity=5000 cps and consistency NLG=2 :
I don't know about those parameters, do you think that could be a good grease?
Best regards.
Costas
Quote from: Cost_spin on January 18, 2023, 03:43:11 PMQuote from: handi2 on January 17, 2023, 11:49:42 PM----
I now use Shimano Premium grease. It's way expensive but goes a long way. It's actually made for the fork bearings in their bicycles. Impervious to salt
good, it's available online here; just to avoid another sticky grease, did you use it on Stellas without problem?
@Alantani: I found this Blu marine grease in the store in my city,
bku_marine_grease_CFG.jpg
The specs say viscosity=5000 cps and consistency NLG=2 :
I don't know about those parameters, do you think that could be a good grease?
Best regards.
Costas
It's very sticky and slick. I'm using it now on 25 Saragosa's, Stradic's and Stella's.
It does not bog down the reels
NLGI grade and CPS are two measurements of the thickness of the grease.
The thicker the grease, the more force it will take to displace it, but the less the grease will migrate.
NLGI 2 is the most commonly used and availabile in general, and is what is mostly used on fishing reels. Sometimes thinner greases are used for colder climates and/or lighter spinning reels. Adding (a hopefully compatible) oil to thin the grease to is a common practice here, but you run a greater risk of separation compared to simply purchasing a thinner grade of grease.
Applying less grease will mean less grease to displace when the gears are turning, which should also decrease the amount of force required.
Here is a table that compares NLGI grades to common household products:https://www.thelubricantstore.com/laymans-guide-to-nlgi-grades/ (https://www.thelubricantstore.com/laymans-guide-to-nlgi-grades/)
In addition to thickness, greases are formulated to have specific adhesive properties, but I don't think that there is a numerical measurement applied, just a subjective observation. I would expect that a general purpose grease suitable for small gears and bearings would have the suitable level of adhesion for fishing reels, and you simply select the NLGI grade that meets your needs from there.
Greases can separate and even become gummy/tacky due to oxidation over time, so a sticky batch of grease could simply be past its useful life.
Hope this helps,
-J
Handi and Jurelometer thanks for your esustive answer :d
Costas
Yeah. I was wondering about oxidation with grease.
Quote from: Gfish on January 19, 2023, 10:29:29 PMYeah. I was wondering about oxidation with grease.
It i probably the property that we should care about the most. Reels are not very demanding in terms of load or RPMs, so it is probably the exposure to air over time that causes the most degradation.
I was just reading about the how industrial products have an ISO tag, so you can just compare the digits (oxidation resistance, pressure, temp, water resistance, etc.) against the decode table and know if it is the right grease for the job.
Too bad all the "magic" reel lubricants don't provide this data. But if they did, we probably wouldn't be paying big bucks for tiny jars, as we would find that there are plenty of equivalent products out there that are much cheaper :)
-J
I've noticed that if I happen to leave the cap off my SuperLube tube overnight the next day the grease near the opening is a little stiffer, nothing major, but air exposure definitely makes a difference. Closed up inside a reel shouldn't make a whole lot difference, though, I wouldn't think.
Quote from: alantani on January 17, 2023, 09:44:15 PMany marine grease should be fine.
People tend to overlook, that all you need to do, is take something that has to do more, in terms of performance, conditions, and put it into something less demanding, like reels, being greased with Yamalube.
At ~ 20%- O2, plain ol' air is an oxidizer.
Quote from: jurelometer on January 18, 2023, 09:43:46 PMNLGI grade and CPS are two measurements of the thickness of the grease.
The thicker the grease, the more force it will take to displace it, but the less the grease will migrate.
NLGI 2 is the most commonly used and availabile in general, and is what is mostly used on fishing reels. Sometimes thinner greases are used for colder climates and/or lighter spinning reels. Adding (a hopefully compatible) oil to thin the grease to is a common practice here, but you run a greater risk of separation compared to simply purchasing a thinner grade of grease.
Applying less grease will mean less grease to displace when the gears are turning, which should also decrease the amount of force required.
Here is a table that compares NLGI grades to common household products:https://www.thelubricantstore.com/laymans-guide-to-nlgi-grades/ (https://www.thelubricantstore.com/laymans-guide-to-nlgi-grades/)
In addition to thickness, greases are formulated to have specific adhesive properties, but I don't think that there is a numerical measurement applied, just a subjective observation. I would expect that a general purpose grease suitable for small gears and bearings would have the suitable level of adhesion for fishing reels, and you simply select the NLGI grade that meets your needs from there.
Greases can separate and even become gummy/tacky due to oxidation over time, so a sticky batch of grease could simply be past its useful life.
Hope this helps,
-J
Once displaced the extra amount applied does nothing in sense of further dragging the motion. It is actually beneficial due to bigger volume which can keep the properties of the whole batch longer, in terms of oxidation and drying out.
Also, the property and one of main functions of grease, to absorb any traces of condensation or leakage, of water, inside of the reel. Is only better with more of it.
QuoteOnce displaced the extra amount applied does nothing in sense of further dragging the motion. It is actually beneficial due to bigger volume which can keep the properties of the whole batch longer, in terms of oxidation and drying out.
Also, the property and one of main functions of grease, to absorb any traces of condensation or leakage, of water, inside of the reel. Is only better with more of it.
Agree a little with the first part, but tend to disagree with the rest.
Some grease will be pushed aside, but the remaining grease is continuously pushed around. For example, all the grease does not leave a ball bearing, it gets moved around and pressurized during rotation. If the grease vacated the friction surfaces, it would not serve as a lubricant. That is why the thickness makes a difference.
Unoxided grease lying under a crust of oxidized grease is not providing benefit.
Greases are mostly oils, and oils are hydrophobic. Absorbing water degrades the lubricating properties, so enhanced water resistance is a key property of many greases. Also, we want water that gets into a reel to evacuate before it starts evaporating, especially saltwater. Excess salt and moisture is a key component of rapid corrosion. This is also why nobody puts sponges or silica packets inside reels to sop up moisture. Too much moisture to collect and effectively isolate.
I am personally a proponent of lightly greasing all metal surfaces inside a reel to provide more surface corrosion protection. Big globs of grease can trap water or block drain ports on most (unsealed) reels. With "sealed" reels, you are mostly screwed by water penetration. The seals that kept most of the outside water out will be also keeping most of the leaked water in.
-J
"The seals that kept most of the outside water out will be also keeping most of the leaked water in. "
That is the problem ( in potential ) with sealed bearings also. Not just in regards to moisture but particles of sand..
"Greases are mostly oils, and oils are hydrophobic. Absorbing water degrades the lubricating properties, so enhanced water resistance is a key property of many greases."
Even if greases are not meant or made to absorb water, they do absorb it if it stays around, and by doing so turn white-ish. Making the grease less effective in performance but also preventing the water hazards.
"Some grease will be pushed aside, but the remaining grease is continuously pushed around."
This pushing around, is in case of those extra bulges of extra grease turned into pushing back, and thus making the wanted effect of greased teeth longer and better.
Plus it holds up - gives back the "moisture", of the - to the grease that works.
Quote from: Mic on February 09, 2021, 05:39:29 PMWOW !,
34 PAGES !!!!!
Please, if your new to the board, read the frequently asked questions. Hope I can help you as much as I've been helped. Hold on...
Cal's Drag grease is the recommended lubricant for drag washers.
Marine grade grease is recommended for internal surfaces inside the reel (doesn't give minerals a stopping/starting point)
TSI - 321 seems to be the viewer's choice for bearings
There ya go
I would be compelled to add....
There is a place for marine grease in sealed bearings. I'm still gonna pack the pinion bearing in a spinner that is so exposed to salt with marine grease as well as roller bearings and the handle bearings. Might cut it a bit with Corrosion-X but grease is going to last longer afaik.
TSI 321 is the clear choice for any bearing where you truly need speed like in a reel that has to cast very light lures or baits (spool bearings). But for something you crank that's exposed to salt a sealed bearing that has been packed with ie Yamaha marine grease has survived months at the bottom of the ocean (just ask hand2). I don't have the evidence to believe TSI 321 would last that long. Of course, for an open bearing I would use a top oil too.
(if you think about it, the marine bearing ie the bearings on a boat trailer undergo the most rigorous testing we know. They get completely and repeatedly saturated with saltwater at a depth of several feet then are never serviced again typically for years and years yet the bearings hold up to this abuse due to the powers of the marine grease. Can't ask for much more than that.)
has anyone tried wd40 gel lube?
Quote from: random66 on August 13, 2023, 07:00:11 AMhas anyone tried wd40 gel lube?
I have not even seen that grease before (not that I'm looking specifically for it).
I use various lubricants depending on the reels use.
all reels are grease using ACF50 corrosion block.
This is a blue waterprood grease. It is used by the RNLI in their boat trailer wheel bearings.
Oil wise i use rocket fuel, 3in1 or penn synthetic reel grease. in the bearings of my surf reels
i sometimes use EP80 gearbox oil in the spool bearings to slow the spool down.
When i service my reel i remove the bearings and flush out the old lubricant with lighter fluid
Quote from: random66 on August 13, 2023, 07:00:11 AMhas anyone tried wd40 gel lube?
WD40 is not highly regarded in this community. The solvents contained in the mixture will loosen things up, but its a crappy lube for corrosion protection with documented poor durability.
WD-40 is probably the greatest stuff ever made to get newbies to keep spraying it on stuff when a better lube would last many times as long. The "2 in 1" nature of it was marketing genius but its a poor choice as a dedicated lube. The idea is that the solvent evaporates off leaving behind a little lube. Better to truly clean the part and then use a dedicated lubricant that is ideal for the function of the part.
Who knows what they are up to with the gel, probably just another silicon lube rebranded. I like something that has been created specifically for saltwater like marine bearing grease when a heavy lube is called for.
But as Alan has sagely put it (I paraphrase): "Just doing something with whatever is better than nothing". All the rest is just varying degrees of better or worse.
Quote from: random66 on August 13, 2023, 07:00:11 AMhas anyone tried wd40 gel lube?
In addition to the safety/health risk information, you can get useful information on a lubricant's properties from the SDS/MSDS. So let's take a look at this puppy:
https://media.napaonline.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/3012544pdf (https://media.napaonline.com/is/content/GenuinePartsCompany/3012544pdf)
Looks like it is a petroleum based (not synthetic) grease mixed with ~25% VOCs (yow!) so that it is temporarily thinned enough to be sprayed out of a can. Once the VOCs evaporate, you are left with a residue of grease of an unspecified thickness.
This "gel" might serve a purpose for cases where you want to insert some grease in a hard to reach spot without taking machinery apart (it seems popular for consumer lubicration of garage door moving parts), but formulating a grease that can be delivered with a large amount of solvent has to limit the ingredients available. So probably not the best grease.
Plus you will be inhaling a bit of VOCs and aerosolized grease with every application.
My vote is to stick to a grease that comes out of a tub or tube, and since reels are not very demanding in terms of grease performance, pick one on the safer side for handling. Most NLGI 2 greases will be good enough, but there are some favorites.
Here is an overview on chosing lubricants:
https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,36984.msg437266.html#msg437266 (https://alantani.com/index.php/topic,36984.msg437266.html#msg437266)
Hope this helps,
-J
Here's something new. Many of you who work on electronics are likely familiar with DeoxIT. I was on their website and just noticed they produce grease. I'll follow up after I get my hands on some.
https://acct113328.app.netsuite.com/core/media/media.nl?id=156128&c=ACCT113328&h=db6568e1ac1bf8acc432&_xt=.pdf