Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Okuma Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: alantani on March 01, 2010, 01:08:04 AM

Title: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: alantani on March 01, 2010, 01:08:04 AM
okuma convector CV 30L rebuild - 2/28/10

this will be the fist time that i've ever done a rebuild post on this style of fishing reel.  it is a variation on the theme of the older mitchell, ocean city, penn, and newell reels, in which the bridge plate bolts to the side plate.  these reels are found in large numbers in asia and to a lesser degree in the united states.  it's like the m-16 vs ak-47 situation in this country.  m-16's are more common, but there are plenty of ak's here and even more throughout the rest of the world.  first, pull up the schematics.

http://schematics.okumafishing.com/CV30L.PDF

here's our reel.  it's last year's model of the okuma convector 30L.  i had to do a few calculations, but it looks like this reel will hold a shade under 300 yards of 30# mono.  that compares to the penn 330 gt2 holding 330 yards of 30# mono.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_46_48_0.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_46_50_1.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_46_58_3.jpeg)

it's very important to keep the line and the leveler in sync.  an easy way to do that is to pull out the line until the leveler moves to a far side, then cut the line.  when the reel is back together, crank until the leveler moves back to that side, find the tag end of the line, poke it through the leveler, pull, tie it off and you're back in sync.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_47_03_4.jpeg)

let's start by removing the four left side plate screws (key #9311).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_48_52_0.jpeg)

stainless steel.  very nice!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_48_54_1.jpeg)

remove the left side plate cover (key #311), also stainless steel.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_48_56_2.jpeg)

remove the left side plate cover (key #300) assembly.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_48_58_3.jpeg)

here's a view of the inside.  all stainless steel!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_49_01_4.jpeg)

you can go cheap and easy here and just lube the right side plate bearing (key #9106) without pulling it out.  this bearing measures 4x11x4mm.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_50_25_0.jpeg)

you can also pull the bearing and clean it out.  on some models, you may have to remove the click pawl spring (key #305) and the transmission gear (key #707).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_50_37_3.jpeg)

remove the spool assembly (key #400).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_50_30_1.jpeg)

in all of the star drag reels, this right spool bearing (key #9107) that always fails first.  it measures 6x13x3.5mm.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_50_33_2.jpeg)

remove the retaining clip (key #9406).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_50_42_4.jpeg)

we're going to toss the shields and lube the bearing, then reinstall it and the retaining clip.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_59_56_0.jpeg)

lube the worm shaft (key #712).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_4_59_58_1.jpeg)

install the spool assembly (key #400).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_00_01_2.jpeg)

install the left side plate assembly (key #300).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_00_07_3.jpeg)

install the left side plate cover (key #311).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_00_09_4.jpeg)

install the four left side plate screws (key #9311).    

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_01_55_0.jpeg)

in the future, this will be the only work required to maintain your reel.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_01_58_1.jpeg)

now for the right side.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_02_03_2.jpeg)

remove the handle nut holder screw (key #515).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_02_09_4.jpeg)

remove the handle nut (key #117).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_04_12_0.jpeg)

remove the handle washer (key #9204).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_04_14_1.jpeg)

remove the handle assembly (key #500).  at one point, the hadle arms were stainless steel.  this particular arm is made of anodized aluminum.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_04_17_2.jpeg)

remove the tension washer (key #614).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_04_21_3.jpeg)

remove the star drag (key #615).  this is also anodized aluminum, not as good as stainless steel but better than the chromed zinc found in older models.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_04_30_4.jpeg)

removed the washer stack and keep the washers in order (key #'s 9201, 609 and unk).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_07_00_0.jpeg)

remove the 5 right side plate screws (key #9301).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_07_02_1.jpeg)

remove the right side plate cover (key #208).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_07_12_4.jpeg)

remove the right side plate assembly (key #200).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_08_35_0.jpeg)

here's a shot of the inside of the assembly.  it is different in appearance, but the basic "design" is same a penn 4/0 senator.  one of the most impressive things about this particular reel is the amount of stainless steel in it.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_08_38_1.jpeg)

remove the two screws (key #930-1) for the hold plate cover (key #912).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_08_41_2.jpeg)

remove the hold plate cover (key #912).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_08_43_3.jpeg)

remove the clutch cam screw (key #9317)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_08_47_4.jpeg)

remove the clutch cam slider (key #804).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_20_28_0.jpeg)

remove the pinion gear (key #702) and yoke (key #805) as a unit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_20_31_1.jpeg)

remove the two yoke springs (key #806).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_20_34_2.jpeg)

line everything up.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_20_37_3.jpeg)

remove the two large hold plate screws (key #9302) on top.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_20_39_4.jpeg)

remove the smaller countersunk hold plate screw (key #9302-1) at the bottom.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_21_50_0.jpeg)

note the orientation of the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) assembly.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_21_55_2.jpeg)

remove the anti-reverse pawl pin (key #211).  this side is up....

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_21_57_3.jpeg)

..... and this side is down.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_22_00_4.jpeg)

remove the drive shaft assembly as a unit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_21_52_1.jpeg)

this model has a white nylon drive gear shaft bushing (part #17200005) that is not shown in the schematic.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_32_03_0.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_32_06_1.jpeg)

here is an expanded view of the drive shaft assembly.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_32_10_2.jpeg)

there are two drag washers (key #'s 9205 and 610) in this particular reel that are not made of carbon fiber and should be replaced.  call okuma directly or use a penn ht-100 #56-440 as a replacement.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_32_13_3.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_32_17_4.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_38_36_0.jpeg)

slap a thick coat of cal's grease on the carbon fiber drag washers and reassemble the drag stack.  don't worry about the excess grease.  it will simply squeeze out the sides.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_38_39_1.jpeg)

install the one way clutch bearing (key #9103).  lube it first with corrosion x.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_38_42_2.jpeg)

install the drive shaft assembly half way.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_38_46_3.jpeg)

rotate the hold plate (key #207) clockwise about 30 degrees.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_38_53_4.jpeg)

install the anti-reverse pawl pin (key #211) and align the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) with the the ratchet gear of the drive shaft assembly (key #701).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_38_53_4.jpeg)

rotate the hold plate (key #207) couterclockwise 30 degrees and snap it into place.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_44_15_1.jpeg)

turn the drive shaft (key #701) and make sure the anti-reverse pawl (key #201) clicks properly.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_44_24_3.jpeg)

install the lower hold plate screw (key #9302-1).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_48_15_0.jpeg)

install the two upper hold plate screws (key #9302).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_48_19_1.jpeg)

install the two yoke springs (key #806).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_48_22_2.jpeg)

install the pinion gear (key #702) and yoke (key #805) as a unit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_48_26_3.jpeg)

install the clutch cam slider (key #804).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_48_31_4.jpeg)

install the clutch cam screw (key #9317).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_50_54_0.jpeg)

check the function of the clutch bar (key #802).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_51_02_1.jpeg)

install the cover board (key #912).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_51_11_3.jpeg)

install the cover board screws (key #9301-1).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_51_15_4.jpeg)

almost done!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_52_11_0.jpeg)

install the right side plate assembly (key #200).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_52_14_1.jpeg)

install the right side plate cover (key #208).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_52_23_2.jpeg)

install the side plate cover screws (key #9301).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_52_28_3.jpeg)

install the drive gear shaft bushing (no key #).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_52_47_4.jpeg)

install the drag spring washers (key #609) in a "()" orientation.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_53_48_0.jpeg)

install the drive shaft gear washer (key #9201-1) and click gear (no key #).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_53_54_1.jpeg)

install the star drag (key #615) and turn it down past the shoulder of the drive shaft.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_54_01_2.jpeg)

install the tension washer (key #614).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_54_04_3.jpeg)

now for the handle assembly (key #500).  it you need to lube it, pop the cover and back out this small screw.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_54_10_4.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_56_36_0.jpeg)

i'm going to drill this one out and install something a little more substantial.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_56_48_1.jpeg)

there, that's more like it!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_56_56_2.jpeg)

install the handle washer (key #9204).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_56_59_3.jpeg)

install the handle nut (key #117).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_5_57_02_4.jpeg)

install the handle nut holder screw (key #515).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_6_02_15_0.jpeg)

almost done.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_6_02_52_1.jpeg)

the quickest way to damage the level wind assembly is to have the line and the leveler out of sync.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_6_03_13_3.jpeg)

remember where the leveler was when we cut the line?   right!  crank the reel until you have the leveler on the far right side.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_6_03_25_4.jpeg)

poke the line through the leveler and pull until you can clearly see that it is back in sync.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_6_06_54_0.jpeg)

now tie a loop at the end, add a rubber band, and NOW you're done!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/2/1_10_02_10_6_07_02_3.jpeg)

now, for a few comments.  at the risk of sounding like a broken record, the bearings need servicing.  and sneaking in two non-carbon fiber washers into the drag stack is not good.  but the rest of this reel is fine!  there is ALOT of stainless steel in this fishing reel.  that by itself makes the reel worthy of consideration.  stainless steel and graphite will last for years.  the anodized aluminum handle arm, star and spool will have to be watched, but this reel will require very little maintenance after the initial service.  i'm afraid i would have to rate this reel higher than the penn 330 gt2 and the shimano tekota because the convector is mostly graphite and stainless steel.  if you're looking for a 30# levelwind, this is the one to get.  alan
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: alantani on March 10, 2010, 09:14:18 PM
« on: Today at 08:16:23 AM » Quote Modify Remove Split Topic  

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Glad to see you post this one Alan, thank you. I just wanted to add a few comments. It may be worth the time to check the tightness of the 2 small screws holding the clicker gear to the spool on an annual basis. It's also time well spent to remove the eccentric cam and slap on a thick coat of blue grease to seal it off and protect it from corrosion. I also like to remove the screw holding the mainshaft to the holding plate, grease the mainshaft bushing, loctite the screw before reinstalling, and grease the thin washer below it to seal it off (make sure this washer is centered on the screw/ bushing). Just a little more protection against the elemnts. Thanks again for all your great posts and tutorials, please keep 'em coming.  

Jimmer

    Re: RE: Okuma CV 30L tutorial
« Reply #1 on: Today at 08:42:12 AM » Quote Modify Remove Split Topic  

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Forgot to mention sometimes the drag stack will be a little high with the carbonite washer replacing the plastic one in the drag stack. You can lap down the inside keyed washer and the eared washer on a sheet of 320 grit it get rid of the sharp punched edges (do this carefully in a figure 8 pattern, rotating the washer 90 degrees after 10 strokes to avoid uneven thickness) annd pick up some depth. as a last resort bend the ears down slightly to get engagement with the main gear. I haven't had a problem with sideplate clearance yet. I think tthe penn washers are a little thinner, haven't tried them yet but that might be a good solution.  




Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: picaso66 on March 09, 2011, 02:44:27 AM
I have an Okuma 30D.. can I use this tutorial for that?   

Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: cduced on March 10, 2011, 05:30:01 AM
Quote from: picaso66 on March 09, 2011, 02:44:27 AM
I have an Okuma 30D.. can I use this tutorial for that?   

I just finished doing a CV30D.  I believe if you have an older CV30D, this tutorial will be almost the same, there are three small screws that hold the linecounter on.  I had to remove the linecounter to get the drag stack out.

Actually, the one I opened was brand new.  A couple of notes, the hold plate is now plastic.  In addition to the removing the three screws, you need to remove the screw from the center of the shaft that screws into the main shaft of the drag stack before removing the hold plate.  On a positive note, the drag washers are now carbon fiber.  They are installed dry from the factory.  I greased mine up and re-installed.  They also replace the washer with the dog ears with a thinner one th help accommodate the slightly thicker drag washers.

Also note that I used this tutorial to do an older CV45L and there was virtually no diff between the inside of that reel and this one.  

BTW, Thanks Alan!

-- Bud
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: coastalobsession on November 13, 2011, 10:54:44 PM
I just got finished servicing one. It was probably one of the most easiest reels to service. My only complant is on the one I serviced is that they use loctite on the screws.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: CaptKev on January 10, 2012, 11:26:03 PM
I'm looking for opinions about the newer 'cheapened' hold plates in the newer reels. I owned a few of the older blue Convectors when Okuma was not so well regarded. They were bullet proof back then. Obviously Okuma increased profits going with a plastic plate on the newer reels. I could look for some older reels that would have the stainless ones, but I just assume buy new and start fresh. 

1) Not having the reel in hand and torn apart, does the plastic plate make any difference in the reel's performance?

2) Even with the plastic hold plate, is still a good reel overall. Plastic doesn't corrode...?

3) Any opinions about the longevity with the plastic plate? 

I'm looking at buying six 20D line counters for salmon trolling for my charter ops. The majority of fish will be about 8-12# Coho with the occasional 20-30# Chinook. Any opinions greatly appreciated.

Kevin
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: alantani on January 11, 2012, 05:28:30 AM
check with okuma.  they might have a stainless steel option........
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: CaptKev on January 11, 2012, 09:51:14 AM
Think the Catalina and Clarion models have stainless hold plates. For the extra money, probably just buy Tekota line counters instead.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: jhm on July 01, 2012, 08:56:14 PM
Wow i've had 6 Convector CV D reels in a box for a few years now but I came across your post here and finally had the guts to pull them apart. I was able to fix 4 of them so far by simply filing down a little burr I found on the main shaft that wasn't allowing the reel to engage after letting line out. But I have a couple other reels that seem to have a issues with the worm shaft the line on the spool seems to get out of time with the lever. I hope I explained my problem ok. What could cause my problem?
Thanks Jeff
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: redsetta on July 01, 2012, 09:27:42 PM
G'day and welcome Jeff,
Well done on the Convectors.
If I understand your question correctly (ie the level wind is out of synch with the line lay?), it's a common issue.
If the spool is removed for servicing or the line goes back through the level-wind guide, the line lay and level wind will get out of synch.
The next time you fish, it'll spool off out of synch, but lay correctly as it's wound back in.
It'll then spool off correctly to the previous length, then get out of synch again.
There really isn't any way around this, other than avoiding letting the line back through the level-wind guide.
Some reels feature a 'disengaging level wind' when in free spool, so they effectively get out of synch with every cast.
Hope that's what you were after.
Cheers, Justin
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: jhm on July 01, 2012, 10:21:10 PM
OK thanks a lot. I never pulled the spools out previous to reading this post but I may have had some break offs and got things out of sync there. Have you ever seen where reels just get out of sync with the line lay because of mechanical reasons. Just curious in case that's actually my problem? Thanks a lot for the quick reply! Much appreciated!
Jeff
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: redsetta on July 01, 2012, 10:47:24 PM
Hi Jeff,
QuoteHave you ever seen where reels just get out of sync with the line lay because of mechanical reasons?
Yeah, level-wind mechanisms are notoriously delicate and readily fail at the idler gear, pawl or worm shaft.
Even where everything's working fine, you're likely to have a few different line lays on the most well-used portion of the spool (as you say, due to break-offs etc).
As long as it's laying smoothly and to a uniform depth across the spool width, it'll be fine.
However, if you want it all spot on, just free spool a good bit of line out the back of the boat and rewind under some tension.
Cheers, Justin
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on February 11, 2013, 09:30:36 AM
I just bought a second hand CV30L, and there are some differences with the one in Alans pictures.

Firstly mine has a pinion gear yoke plate, under the anti reverse gear. This is shown on the CN30L schematic, but not on the CV30L schematic.

http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/okuma/Okuma_CN_30L.pdf
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/okuma/Okuma_CV30L.pdf

Secondly mine had zero carbon fiber washer in all. All plastic like the two Alan removed above.

Third the clicker pawl spring was plastic in mine.

And last of all the hold plate was stainless as above, not plastic as others have posted the latest ones are.

Can anyone tell me the purpose of the pinion gear yoke plate, and the spring in it?

As far as I can tell it just acts like a spacer in this reel.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Jimmer on February 11, 2013, 12:07:51 PM
That plate and it's damper spring are part of the auto trip mechanism. I always remove both and shift the reel back into gear manually.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on February 11, 2013, 06:09:18 PM
The reel appears to me to be a candidate for a 5+1 conversion. Big SS gears and SS driveshaft.
It has a couple of 2mm metal washers that could be thinner allowing room for more drag washers.

Existing washer dimensions are

Metal washers
Two of 8x34x2 keyed
One of 10x34x1 eared

Drag washers are
Two of 8x34x0.5
One of 13x34x1
Under gear washer is 8x36x1

I'm a newbie at this but am thinking it should be possible to replace the 2mm washers with 1mm, that would make room for two more metal washers.

Then replace the 1mm drag washers with 0.5mm making room for two more drag washers.

I could buy two of the eared washer from okuma and file the ears off.
I could buy more of the 0.5mm drag washers from okuma and replace the 1mm ones.

The top metal washer ahas a raised area near the centre. Is this important?
the scheme above would replace it with a flat washer

Any opinions as to whether this may work before I give it a go?
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Bryan Young on February 11, 2013, 09:25:55 PM
Hi Mike,

It is possible but if you crank down on the drag, you will surely exceed the limits of this reel...therefore, a 3+1 drag set-up is sufficient.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on February 12, 2013, 06:45:51 AM
Thanks for the feedback Bryan.
What is your guess as to the limiting component on this reel?
Is it the plastic frame flexing, allowing the main gear and pinion gear to disengage slightly?

3+1 will definitely be enough drag for me. I fish out of a kayak and will use 30lb mono on this reel.

However I do like to tinker...
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Jimmer on February 12, 2013, 12:53:25 PM
A 5+1 might be possible in this, I've never measured max drag with 3+1 but i get plenty for salmon and trout up to 25 lb in the stock configuration, To try a 5 stack I think you would need all thin metal washers. I would use a.8 mm c.f washer on the bottom (large hole to maintain clearance so the first keyed washer doesn't bind on the main gear bushing. You must alternate keyed and eared with c.f, in betweenup the drag stack.  Drilled out keyed washers would become useless spacers, none of the metals will transmit power (or drag) from the handle shaft to the main gear if they are not alternating keyed and eared, engaged to either ther handle shaft or the main gear. The second eared washer will also have to have the tabs engaged in the grooves in  the main gear to add any more drag. I didn't do the math but I dont think you will find thin enough metals for this reel to make it work, the newer reels might use thinner metals. Okuma or Tuna's reel troubles might be able to help. tunasreeltroubles@gmail.com email only they are too busy to talk on the phone. Good luck! - Jimmer
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Jimmer on February 12, 2013, 01:05:05 PM
Should have read all the way down before I posted that, I too think you'll be fine with the stock drag. The limiting factors on this reel will be first how much drag the anti reverse roller bearing on the handle shaft can take, and two how much force the frame can take at the A.R. dog pin to frame point after the one way roller bearing fails.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Bryan Young on February 12, 2013, 08:00:39 PM
The limiting factors include but not limited to the frame, sideplates, or Anti-reverse system.  The reel probably good up to 12-14# ish.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on February 13, 2013, 12:30:11 AM
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Taking into account the new knowledge you have given me, all I will do to this reel is replace the plastic (Rulidium) drag washers with HT-100, or maybe Okumas new carbon fibres ones (Carbonite).
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on February 24, 2013, 08:29:45 AM
Quote from: Jimmer on February 11, 2013, 12:07:51 PM
That plate and it's damper spring are part of the auto trip mechanism. I always remove both and shift the reel back into gear manually.

I just found out why.
When casting the handle rotates and Puts the reel into gear just as I let fly with a 5oz sinker. I'm gonna take mine out too before i wreck the dog or AR gear.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Jimmer on February 24, 2013, 01:26:33 PM
There are some other upgrades for the older convectors. T he very newest ones use a stainless cliker spring which is way stronger than the black or white plastic ones, and the new drag star also has a clIcker to help hold it at its setting. Both are available cheap here :   http://stores.tunasreeltroubles.com/-strse-OKUMA-CONVECTOR-CV-cln-CONVECTOR-CV30-SERIES-cln-CV30L/Categories.bok
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on February 28, 2013, 08:01:15 AM
Ok, I'm wondering if I have rounded the male piece on the spool shaft which mates with the pinion gear.

When under tension the spool will sometimes slip backwards with a horrible sound like your wife trying to change gears in a manual transmission.

The male piece is still has square edges al the spool end, but the pinion end has 2 rounded edges, the two highest corners.

See a photo of the part I am talking about.

(http://i1326.photobucket.com/albums/u658/mikelala/image_zps04ee8166.jpg)

Does this sound like a correct diagnosis?
If so I can replace the spool and the problem will go away. (Fingers crossed).

Other information of use is:
Slippage happens when not winding handle, and line is being pulled from the spool under some drag tension.

Only happens under load.

All other parts look un damaged to my untrained eye.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: alantani on February 28, 2013, 09:02:29 AM
i'm getting double vision.  i can probably read your post more easily if you flip your avatar photo right side up....   ;D
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Jimmer on February 28, 2013, 01:14:20 PM
If that's damaged you'll probably need a new spool, I'd inspect the pinion and main gears carefully as well, Tuna's probably has everything you need in stock and ships the same day if they do. Good prices and great service.    http://www.tunasreeltroubles.com/
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: alantani on March 02, 2013, 02:21:20 AM
is the shoulder of the spool shaft damaged?  it's hard to see on the photo.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Mike La Franchie on March 02, 2013, 09:49:22 PM
2 edges of the shoulder are rounded off. These two are higher and are the two the pinion will engage first.
I'm not sure if it was made like this to help the pinion engage smoothly . The spool end of the shoulder still has 4 square edges. It's just the pinion gear end that has two edges rounded off.

I couldn't get a decent photo to show this.

The pinion is also damaged.

In today's disposable society it's not really worth me buying a new spool and pinion gear for this reel.
So if anyone is looking for parts PM me. They are yours for shipping cost from New Zealand. Probably only cost effective for small parts that will fit in an envelope.

The spool, pinion gear and level wind assembly are damaged. Everything else is good spares.

Alan my photo profile looks the right way up to me.
Maybe the website recognises that I am on the other side of the world, and automatically turns me upside down?
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Irish Jigger on March 02, 2013, 09:54:30 PM
Quote from: alantani on February 28, 2013, 09:02:29 AM
i'm getting double vision.  i can probably read your post more easily if you flip your avatar photo right side up....   ;D

I thought he lived in Australia. ;)
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: jig-guy on June 18, 2013, 09:04:18 AM
Hi Alen, this is a great post. I am going to purchase the CV30L. I have been using the CV45L and it works great. I had surgery on my right arm and shoulder and for an old guy I needed a reel that my arm could still crank. Anyway thanks for the guidance and I will maintain my reels as per your instructions.
I will catch a tuna or yellowtail on the CV30L this summer or fall for sure. My right arm and shoulder are a bunch of junk but I will fish till I drop.
Thank you,
jig-guy / Bill
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: David Hall on February 13, 2015, 08:39:19 PM
This week a friend gave me crusty 6/0, in return I offered to service a nice little convector that he wanted to keep fishing but wasn't using because he couldn't get more than about 5lbs of drag with the star pinned down.
I cracked it open this morning cleaning and luring as I followed through this tutorial.  Toke the left side plate off and greased the clicker pawl, cleaned the plate up, cleaned the frame and soaked the spool bearings in TSI.  When I got to the right side plate and drag stack it looks like all the drag washers are plastic?  Never seen anything like it and since I didn't have any CF washers for the reel I dug around and found that the Daiwa Saltist CF washers I have are perfect ID and about 1/4" to big on the OD.  So I did another AT trick and samiched the new CF washers between the two round washers added a few washers and screwed the handle nut down then took a file and milled them down to perfect fit, took about 1 minute.  After reassembly I set the drag at about 50% and checked it on my scale and got 8lbs,  I began to button down the star and checked the tension each turn.  Maxed out at 18lbs measured and the star pinned.  Going to be a fine salmon and rockfish reel the drag is smooth as silk, man I love these greased CF.  whole project start to finish 50 minutes.  Could never have done this two months ago! 
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Bryan Young on February 13, 2015, 09:13:29 PM
Good going Dave.  Funny how those thin plastic things end up in a reel's drag system.

Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: David Hall on February 14, 2015, 03:36:52 AM
I just put your ultimate 5+1 drags in my two P29 converted 500's. Man is it smooth.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Porthos on February 14, 2015, 07:52:34 AM
Quote from: David Hall on February 13, 2015, 08:39:19 PM
...After reassembly I set the drag at about 50% and checked it on my scale and got 8lbs,  I began to button down the star and checked the tension each turn.  Maxed out at 18lbs measured and the star pinned...

Okuma website says 20lb max--probably marketing optimism on the missing 2lbs. Unless...they measured pulling though the guides of a rod at 45° to get to 20lbs. When I rebuilt my CV-30L, I tested to 13lbs drag from top of spool for a 40lb setup, determined the star was nowhere near buttoned down and called it a day. Pushing it to the theoretical max of 20lbs would mean a 50-60lb set...not sure if I want to stress the 30L's graphite frame to that level.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: ortiz on April 14, 2015, 11:53:29 PM
Hello Alan!

I'm brazilian, so, please sorry my bad written...

I've a problem at my Okuma Convector CV-30LX... When I try fling the lure, the crank handle rotates and lock at "ON" position the clutch bar.

Could I remove this mechanism (key # 807) to solve my problem? Thank you very much!

Leandro

Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: jonnou on April 18, 2015, 11:02:35 AM
Quote from: ortiz on April 14, 2015, 11:53:29 PM
Hello Alan!

I'm brazilian, so, please sorry my bad written...

I've a problem at my Okuma Convector CV-30LX... When I try fling the lure, the crank handle rotates and lock at "ON" position the clutch bar.

Could I remove this mechanism (key # 807) to solve my problem? Thank you very much!

Leandro

Yes
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: ortiz on June 09, 2015, 08:17:25 PM
Quote from: jonnou on April 18, 2015, 11:02:35 AM
Quote from: ortiz on April 14, 2015, 11:53:29 PM
Hello Alan!

I'm brazilian, so, please sorry my bad written...

I've a problem at my Okuma Convector CV-30LX... When I try fling the lure, the crank handle rotates and lock at "ON" position the clutch bar.

Could I remove this mechanism (key # 807) to solve my problem? Thank you very much!

Leandro

Yes

Thank you everyone!
I just replace the part by simple metal washer! It's working very well right now!

Leandro
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: cbar45 on January 14, 2016, 04:28:56 AM
Hello,

I just serviced an Okuma 55w this week, older model with metal hold-plates...Thought I'd mention that the handle knob bolts on using a left-hand threaded screw and a bit of loctite..

Also did a pre-service on Bass Pro's new Seafire 4/0...I know it's a house-brand reel, but like many of you, it is my habit to take reference photos of every reel that crosses the workbench--from bargain basement clunkers to Tiagra 130's..

So if anyone wants some breakdown photos of that reel, I'll be happy to post them here, just let me know..

Chad
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Bryan Young on January 14, 2016, 04:51:11 AM
Hi Chad,

Please post as you please. It will help out someone that may be too afraid to ask.
Mahalo.

Bryan
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: sdlehr on January 14, 2016, 04:55:45 AM
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 14, 2016, 04:51:11 AM
Hi Chad,

Please post as you please. It will help out someone that may be too afraid to ask.
Mahalo.

Bryan
Bryan, I see why you are a moderator!!!

Sid
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: cbar45 on January 14, 2016, 05:06:23 AM
Bryan,

Duly noted...Let me upload the photos first, and I will start a new Seafire 4/0 thread as time allows..

Chad
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Bryan Young on January 14, 2016, 03:55:27 PM
Quote from: cbar45 on January 14, 2016, 05:06:23 AM
Bryan,

Duly noted...Let me upload the photos first, and I will start a new Seafire 4/0 thread as time allows..

Chad

Mahalo Chad.
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: Ron Jones on January 14, 2016, 10:02:00 PM
Does anyone know anything about the smaller reels? I'm looking at a 20C. The right side plate leads me to believe that the drive train is not as robust, but I'd like to know before buying.
Ron
Title: Re: okuma convector CV 30L - 2/28/10
Post by: handi2 on April 08, 2016, 12:17:17 AM
I know this is an old thread but the Okuma Convetors I've rebuild all had the rubber drag washers. You can actually bend them over and over again just like rubber.

Even with a full Carbontex set made as large as they will fit, shims on the clutch inner tube, all I can get is 20lbs max. If the reel had a larger roller clutch bearing and inner tube more pressure could be applied.

They are built very well. The only parts I have replaced in people's reels is the drag star, handle, and clutch lever. They seem to break often.