alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Recent Posts
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
July 22, 2018, 02:48:46 AM *
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 1 
 on: Today at 02:38:18 AM 
Started by Indyfisher - Last post by Alto Mare
I have one or two in my scrap pile that just wouldn't come lose. Well, the post on the plate did, but not the sleeve.

Sal

 2 
 on: Today at 01:44:55 AM 
Started by JBH - Last post by oc1
Cor, I blame the ferrule and my failure to wrap the tapered end of the ferrule.  I need to extract the piece broken off in the ferrule.  It may have been ground down too much when making it fit.  It didn't splinter or that would have been the end of it.

I forgot to mention that it didn't break on a big fish or when snagged on the bottom or high-sticking.  I was just casting and it came apart.  That was after 4 to 5 short trips and 8 to 10 hours of repetitive casting a 3/8 ounce jig.

-steve

 3 
 on: Today at 01:25:25 AM 
Started by Jamesbrownla - Last post by Tiddlerbasher
Hen's teeth and rocking horse pooh spring to mind Grin

 4 
 on: Today at 01:17:42 AM 
Started by JBH - Last post by Cor
Conolon blanks are not supposed to break!   
Only after we started using Graphite did I start to see and experience, rods breaking. Grin Grin   

I still have two Conolon/Silaflex rods that I have modified and re modified over the years and are now short boat rods but never get used any more.

Rods can nearly always be repaired with some engenuity and patience.

 5 
 on: Today at 12:21:46 AM 
Started by Petah - Last post by Petah
Thanks Sal! Coming from you is a great compliment! You and Mike and the others here have been a real
inspiration for me!! Now got to finish up my 3-155 Double dog bridge!!!! Man, this one is TIGHT!!!!

Peter

 6 
 on: Today at 12:08:36 AM 
Started by JBH - Last post by oc1
Darn.  This Narmco (pre-Garcia) Conolon has been my favorite lately.  



It was a fly rod but now has a new handle and converted to light baitcasting.  The tobacco blank is great and sort of a classic but the ferrules suck.  I have accumulated several of these and all arrived with ferrule problems.  Apparently, if the rod is taken apart and the end of the male ferrule bangs a hard floor it will mushroom and will no longer fit.

In an effort to make them light they used a very thin brass.  The insert length is also pretty short.  The base of the ferrule seems to have been cut or crimped and swaged into place.  Originally, the base of the ferrule (the tapered part) was wrapped with thread to match the guides.  I did a really spartan wrap job and did not brother to rewrap the ferrule.  I don't know.  That may be why it broke.

The rest of the ferrule was removed and the ends cleaned up.  Several inches of he butt section was lost so the diameters do not match exactly.



I found a junk piece of rod.  It happened to be part of a 1970's Garcia Conolon.



The painted finish was removed.  The donor rod was slid down through the butt to find a three inch insert section that closely matches the broken ends.



An insert piece was cut out but it was a loose fit on the butt section because the two broken ends do not match up perfectly the.  So, some fiberglass tow was wrapped around the insert and bedded with polyester resin.  About 95% of the tow was then sanded off as the insert was fitted to the butt section.



To test the fit the insert had to be dropped down through the butt section from the butt cap end and tapped into place with a piece of rod.  This part was tedious.   The final fit was really snug though before gluing into the butt section.  It was already very snug in the tip section.



The result was good enough for me.



The area over the insert was wrapped with thread.  I should have varnished and finished it right then but it was time to go fishing and I was anxious to try it.  Works as well as ever despite being an inch or two shorter.  It will be varnished eventually.



This is called a spigot ferrule or an insert ferrule.
-steve





 7 
 on: July 21, 2018, 11:19:50 PM 
Started by Navidad Nutcase - Last post by jurelometer
well that was a most interesting bit of  reading jurelometer. And very informative. I now believe I am downgrading for sure. I never thought of the carbon fiber wearing on my aluminum spool. I also did not know the information about carbon having lower coefficient of friction than cork. It seems like I will need MORE tension on the drag knob - not less.  I have 2 identical Amundson reels, so will continue with this project on the one and post results. I think I will just use the 1 thickness glued to the reel body like the cork was. I'll simply add a washer under the drag spring to make up the thickness difference. I will monitor the wear and test drag force but I am not very optimistic about the pending results. Thanks for the information.
Greg

Great!   Nothing like a real world test.  I hope you prove me wrong  Smiley

If you want more top end drag, you should be able to get that, assuming you have the spacers right.

I was thinking that at 150' depth,  you must be using a downrigger,  so I don't understand why the normal clip on the downrigger line is not providing the extra tension.  Or is the friction from the water
Quote
on the line while you are trolling causing the issue?

And if you want just a one time short duration supplemental "troll hold" drag,  I would expect there could be a simple gizmo that could be designed to do that...

 8 
 on: July 21, 2018, 11:01:25 PM 
Started by Navidad Nutcase - Last post by jurelometer
The newest model from Islander deals with the creep issue in a novel way

https://www.islander.com/shop/troll/tr3/

Quote
Multi-layer Fluoropolymer and Stainless Steel Disk Drag

The heart of the Islander TR3 is its all new drag system made from an ultra-high performance fluoropolymer material known for its low coefficient of friction, durability and consistent performance across wide temperature ranges.

Disks are laser cut then sandwiched between alternating layers of stainless steel. The result is silky smooth performance, zero start-up inertia and more than enough power to stop the hardest fighting chinook. Simply put: it is the finest performing drag system on the market today.

Fully Sealed Drag System

The TR3 uses four O-rings to create an impenetrable barrier, preventing contaminants or corrosion from affecting drag performance. The sealed nature also means that the drag requires virtually no ongoing maintenance to continue performing at its best.

The "ultra high performance fluoropolymer" is  most likely PTFE (trade name Teflon).  For fishing reel drags, the fiber filled variety (trade name Rulon) is used as PTFE alone is too squishy.    It has a very small difference between static and dynamic coefficient of  friction, a good thing in drag materials,  unless you are looking for a bit of stickiness to stop "creep".

Rulon is being used more frequently in fly reels and smaller conventionals.   It is extremely water resistant, and has a low coefficient of friction.    Too low.    Combined with a fairly low pressure rating (you can't apply much clamping force to it before it starts squishing),  it becomes nesessary  have a very large disk or a stack multiple semi large disks to get enough drag for even a larger saltwater fly reel.   Rulon also has the strange property where the coefficient of friction decreases as RPMs increase.   Great for making bearings, not so great for drags.

Since rulon is nearly impervious to water,  and there are stainless steel (or  titanium) alloys that are highly  resistant to salt water corrosion, I  don't know why the reel manufacturers insist on sealing behind o-rings that are inherently prone to failure, unless they are trying to protect a one-way bearing- blech.

Not saying that the Islander is a bad reel (Islander seems to have a solid reputation) or that Rulon is useless as a drag material,  but there are  tradeoffs involved.    For a reel dedicated for salmon fishing, where the drag requirements are modest, and the fish don't run that fast,  rulon might be a good choice.

Market demand is really driving fly reel manufacturers toward "sealed" "maintenance free" designs,  but I get the distinct impression that the top brands have more faith in their classic designs.  I suspect the same is happening with mooching reels, but I have next to zero experience with them.   So take this as only a semi-informed opinion from the fly reel side of things...


 9 
 on: July 21, 2018, 10:59:59 PM 
Started by xaf - Last post by xaf
Does anyone know if there are any after market handles available that will fit an SASD40HA Saltiga Star Drag?  I would like extend the length of the handle. 

I did find one from Japan for the my SASD15H.  A bit pricey but works great.  Unfortunately, it won't work on the SASD40HA.   

 10 
 on: July 21, 2018, 10:05:08 PM 
Started by mo65 - Last post by Maxed Out

 That's one sweet looking levelmatic Mo

 I really like the single cork knob too !!

 Ted

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