330 gti

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:22:09 PM

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alantani

the penn 330 gti is simply the bigger brother of the 320 gti with the same spool as the 3/0 sized penn 112h.  it has all the same advantages, and disadvantages, of the penn 320 gti.  the only real difference is the larger frame and spool.



to remove the right side plate assembly (key #1), remove the right side plate screws (key #32).



the reel breaks down into three pieces, the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L) and the right side plate assembly (key #1).



lube the left side plate bearing (key #40).



lube the worm (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.



here's a look at the spool (key #29L).  it is a 112h spool on a different spool shaft.



put the spool (key #29L) back in the frame assembly (key #183) and set it aside.



now for the right side plate assembly (key #1).  remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).



remove the handle assembly screw (key #23).



remove the handle assembly (key #24).



remove the star drag (key #10) and tension spring (key #8).  i typically discard the tension spring at this point.



push the eccentric lever assembly (key #21) forward and into gear, then back out all four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17) and leave them all in place.



the bridge assembly (key #3) will fall out easily, so catch it without turning the right side plate (key #1) upside down.



here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and main gear clustger (key #5).



we're going to switch out the fiber washer (key #4) for a drag washer (penn part #6-875).



grease the drag washer (part #6-875).



rebuild the drag stack, starting with the #6-875 washer underneath the main gear.



slap a thick coat of drag grease on all the other carbon fiber drag washers and rebuild the drag stack.



place your left and middle fingers over the bridge screws and lift up the right side plate. 



now flip it over and everything should stay in place.



install the bridge assembly (key #3) and rotate the bridge plate 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position.



install the dog spring (key #14) and dog (key #15).



rotate the bridge (key #3) 90 degrees clockwise until the bridge plate seats properly.



with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate (key #1) over.



set each bridge screw (key #'s 16 and 17) halfway, then snug them down until they seat properly.



check the function of the anti-reverse mechanism.



check the function of the eccentric lever assembly (key #21).



lube the spool shaft (key #29L).



lube the bearing (no key #) in the bridge (key #3).



install the right side plate assembly (key #1) and right side plate screws (key #32).



install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulders of the gear sleeve (key #98).



install the handle (key #24).  note that a penn senator power handle (part #24-349H) may be substituted here as well.



install the handle assembly screw (key #23).



install the handle lock screw (key #23A).



done!



written 5/5/08 at
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

alantani

mike, thank you!


Quote

Hi Alan,

My name is Mike Ackal. I own and operate a rod and reel repair shop in south Louisiana, LA Reel Repair. I am also an Airframe and Powerplant technician for a large helicopter leasing company (I stay pretty busy). I have read and enjoyed many of your posts pertaining to reel rebuilds and upgrades and just became a member of your alantani.com site.  The reason I am writing you, besides the formal introduction, is in response to your article about the Penn 3 series reel rebuild.  You said that you damaged the bearing in the bridge assembly when you removed it by hammering it out with a socket.  I not long ago rebuilt a Penn 330 GTi, which is very similar (as you know, sorry) and needed to remove the worn bearing in the bridge assembly.  I used a technique that I have used for removing bearings in everything from lawn mower wheels to universal joints.  I do not own a hydraulic press, but hopefully I will get one someday.  In the meantime, I use a C-clamp (6 to 8 inch preferably) with a socket placed over the bearing opening on the egress (inner) side of the bridge bearing housing large enough to allow the bearing to enter the socket, and a smaller socket that fits in the opening on the outside of the bridge bearing housing in contact with the bearing. Place your C-clamp around the two sockets, turn the crank, and press the bearing out. It comes out easily, with no damage to your bearing or bridge. Just be sure and stake it back in carefully. I like a 1/16" pin punch for that.
    That's all for now, just a small way of thanking you for all of your helpful tips and tricks. I have a few others I will try and share now and then as I think of them.  I also have a decent inventory of hard to find parts for older Penn, Ambassadeur, Bantam, Diawa, some Lew's, some Shakespeare.  If you need anything that you cannot find anywhere else, give me a shout, I may have it. If you would like to contact me by phone, my number is 337-380-0989 and I'm normally home after 3:00 PM PST on weekdays. I have learned a lot from your site and I still have much to learn about this business, so I look forward to having another fellow workbench seat warmer for a friend. Thank you for all you do for and contribute to our hobby and livelihood.

Sincerely,
Mike Ackal
LA Reel Repair
St. Martinville, LA


send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Hadge

Hey Mike,

Thanks for the advice on removing the bearing with the c clamp it works great.

Hadge
Hadge

wallacewt

hi mike,thanks for the tip. do you have a main gear and pinion for bantam 500? cheers

scubabumb

how do i get the pictures to show?

alantani

host them on photobucket or picasa and then copy the [img] code and the photo will pop up.  you can also host them here using "additional options."
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

seaeagle2

I think what he was asking was "where did the pictures for this thread go?', when I looked at this thread after he posted his question on sunday, there were no pictures showing.  After you posted your reply and I looked again, the pictures were back.
"One life, don't blow it" Kona Brewing
\"If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there\'d be a shortage of fishing poles\" Doug Larson

Irish Jigger

Just replaced the bearings in two 330GTI's. Your bearing removal tip was great except that I used a bench vice instead of a G Clamp.

Ken_D

#8
Well done tutorial !!! Thanks, AT.

JRJAT

You grease all the drag washers.. correct.

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Ken_D

Quote from: Hadge on March 24, 2011, 09:19:29 PM
Hey Mike,

Thanks for the advice on removing the bearing with the c clamp it works great.

Hadge

I just take a small 1/4" drive socket that fits inside the dead bearing and give it a whack with a drift.
To install the new one, I just grease the bridge boss, align the new brg, and push it in with the spool.
Works for me, your mileage may vary. 

barkley1956

Hi All, I recently bought a couple of used GTi 330's for trolling striped bass up here in NJ. Upon stripping the old line, I found bad salt buildup and corrosion of the spool surface (with the 112H marking on it). I went to my local Penn guy and bought a new spool but the new one does not fit in the existing bridge bearing ofn either reel. Have any of you seen this? Solution?

alantani

they use the same spool, but i'm pretty sure the spool shaft is different, which is why it has a different part number.  i'll bet you just got a 112h spool with a 112h spool shaft.   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

barkley1956

I chucked it up in a drill and hit it with a smooth jewelers file, problem solved! Thanks!  ;D