Shark Handles

[maxpowers]

Adam,

I can send you a SS jigmaster gear sleeve for your testing.  Let me know.

[Shark Hunter]

I fitted each one to the brass sleeve 114h I have, and they fit fine, if not a hair tight. If the SS sleeves are oversize, I'll change the drawing to suit.  As it is  I spent more time filing than I wanted to...

I'm not complaining, its just that the soft brass sleeves lose their original shape over time. The stainless ones do not. Probably five or ten minutes with a diamond file and they fit perfect. It only took that long, because I was careful not to remove too much. You did good Adam!

[Keta]

Fitting them is one of the things that take me 45 minutes to 1 hour each to get ready to sell.  Breaking taps is another "problem".  They cost me $6.00 each to cut and are a PIA but I should have a few more ready to work on this week.

[Cone]

Lee, what size is the tap? Are you using a drill for 50% threads or 75%? Small taps are easy to break. I've broken my share.
Bob

[Three se7ens]

Lee, 50% threads in steel and stainless are stronger than the fastener.  Also, quality taps and a good tapping fluid make a difference too.  75% threads are for aluminum and soft materials.  

For a 4-40 tap you should be using a #41 drill in steel, and a #43 for aluminum and plastics.  

I use a TiN coated hss tap, starting it with a taper tap, and even a 4-40 tap goes into 316 SS like butter.  

The cutting fluid I use is tap magic pro tap, and am very happy with its results in stainless.  

For drill bits, I only use cobalt steel.  Stainless work hardens, so don't dwell.  Drill slowly and use as much pressure as the drill bit will allow.  Again, cutting fluid really helps with stainless.

[Keta]

The screw is brass and they tend to strip out easy in a 50% thread.  If I take it 1/3 of a turn at a time and clear the chips several times they don't break, when I get greedy and don't I loose a tap and handle arm.

[Three se7ens]

If you break a tap, the part can usually be salvaged.  Taps are brittle, and can be broken into small pieces with a sharp punch without damaging the threads much of the time.

Taper taps really do make starting it easier, and it spreads the cutting forces along 7-9 teeth instead of the usual 3-4 with plug taps. 

[Keta]

The stainless is soft and so far I haven't successfully removed a broken one, even with a tap extractor.  I just have to do it slowly.

[MFB]

We used to drill all holes in stainless 316 a 1/16th over the recommended tapping size. This save a lot of stress & taps. 304 is not as bad, but it's not marine grade either so you can get surface rust on it.

Rgds

Mark

[Three se7ens]

I have one handle left from this batch, sized to fit the 114h/115.  $18 plus shipping.  PM me if you want it.

[Three se7ens]

After looking into it more, I think penn used a proprietary thread on the handle lock screw.  #4 measures 0.112" major diameter, while the handle lock screw I measured at 0.120". That doesn't match up with any standard screw size.  M3 0.6mm is the closest match at 0.118" major diameter and 42 threads per inch.  I'll have to test fit it to be sure though. 

All handles I sell will come with a new stainless Allen head screw for the handle lock screw, and I'll continue using a#4-40 tap on my handles

[Irish Jigger]

Penn handle screws (23-60) are 5-40 UNC (0.125 in dia.)

[Shark Hunter]

I picked up my Handles from the Engraver today. They are not cut as deep as I would like, but They are complete now. I wanted to get Tom's Frames engraved, but I couldn't find anybody that would do it.
Most custom engravers mainly do Jewelry or small tags to go on trophies. This is going to have to do.
When the light hits them right, they pop pretty good. If you can't tell from the pictures. The Top one says Shark Hunter and the bottom one has alantani.com.

[bluefish69]

They came out nice. Going to be nice Bling on your reels.

Mike

[Shark Hunter]

Thanks Mike!