D.A.M. Quick 110N -- Bullet Proof Little Microlite

[foakes]

Hi Rick --

You have everything cleaned up nicely.

You may have already been planning on it -- but in case you were not, you should:

Take the drag stack apart, and clean it up.  Since salt water was allowed to rust the spool spindle to the shaft -- the likelihood of issues is high.  Just clean up the resistex drag washers, and the brass discs -- should be fine.

Also, take the bail assembly apart -- cleaning the spring, spring cavity in the rotor, 2 bail screws, reassemble and lightly oil.

No need to take the trip lever apart on the underside of the rotor -- generally just a couple of drops of oil to make sure the trip spring and lever are operating OK.

Check the bearing -- make sure it is cleaned with lighter fluid, solvent, or thinner -- not rough, and no howling sound.  Grease it up inside so it will be smooth operating.  or use a 50/50 mix of marine grease and TSI321.

Clean with "0000" steel wool and an old small drill bit in the chuck of an electric drill -- the inside of the worm gear, the brass sleeve where the handle axle goes through, and the last brass sleeve inside the body towards the back where the worm gear rides.

Blow these parts out after the steel wool burnishing -- them clean them again.  Allow to dry and relube.

On removing the spool spindle from the spool shaft.  Might try two pair of vise grips -- both with rubber or electrical tape covered jaws.  The release button need to be depressed for the spindle to come off.  So one pair of VGs on the spindle -- one pair of VGs on the shaft.  Using two hands and a bench top to keep the button depressed -- try to gently work/spin the spindle in an opposite direction.  If it comes off with no damage -- clean it up well.

If either part becomes damaged when removing -- let me know, and I have spares to send you.

When you depress the button, this allows 2 copper ears to retract into the spool shaft.  So if they are still operable, after removal -- good.  If not let me know.

Grease all of the assembly screws -- and you are good for another 40 years -- with just annual services.

Good luck with your project -- very high quality old reels.

Best,

Fred

[Rick77]

Thanks Fred.
I had already cleaned polished and oiled all parts on the Rotor and reassembled.
All bushings and shafts were polished with jewelers rouge to a mirror finish. I cleaned the bearing with brake cleaner and it's still very smooth with no notchiness.
One thing that I'm not sure about is the drag stack. There is almost no adjustment to the brake. It seems really rough and jerky, kind of hard to explain. (this was before cleaning)

[foakes]

It is obvious, you know how to clean a reel properly, Rick.

I just mentioned those things for others to be aware of.

On the drag stack -- it is made up of brown, hard disks called resistex -- and metal discs.  Generally brass -- but could be chrome over brass.

There is not much adjustment in these stacks like we see today -- but they work fine.  What you could be experiencing in the sticky or jerky action is scoring due to salt -- or just worn discs.

If they are not shiny and smooth -- the resistex ones need replacement.

Two ways to approach --

I have the resistex washers I can send you -- then flat lap the metal discs -- and  smooth out with the jewelers paste you are using -- clean again --

On the drag stack also -- the Spring needs to be checked -- it could have flattened out over the years of lock down during storage or ocean fishing requirements.  Just need a replacement in that case.


Or, you can substitute CFs greased with Cal's drag grease for the resistex ones.  If you want a useful and inexpensive upgrade -- and are planning on using the reel as opposed to displaying it as original -- this will really smooth out any jerkiness.

Let us know how you do with the drag and spindle assembly -- then if you need any parts -- just let me know, and I will send out at N/C.

Welcome!

Best,

Fred

[twotone]

Nice posts Fred. I have a D Q 220 and a old Johnson Green that I would like to send you to and service. These are from my youth and I would like to fish them again. It looks like you have parts if any are needed. PM me if you are interested.

[foakes]

Sure TT --

I can take care of both of them.

PM me -- and I will return with my mailing address.

Best,

Fred

[Stwbkr1]

Hi Fred
Very inspiring. I sent you a pm.

[chuck1960]

Hello, just joined this site after looking for some Dam Quick information. If my question should be posted elsewhere, please let me know. I am looking for a spool and id. insignia for my 220. I bought a 2nd reel off ebay for parts, but waiting to see if it is actually smoother than the one I have. The one I already own seems to "hang up" slightly when cranking (handle at the 12 o'clock position. Havent had time to tear into it yet. My question is do any of you sell parts, as they seem to be overpriced on feebay. And, after reading this thread it appears a few of you also repair the reels, if interested could you send me a message with a general estimate of a basic fix/tuneup? Not sure how to pm anyone on here yet...Thanks in advance.

[Stwbkr1]

Hi Fred
I sent another pm with the part numbers.
Thanks
Scott

[foakes]

Sorry, Scott --

Out of town until Saturday.

If you can wait, should be able to help you then.

Best,

Fred

[Stwbkr1]

No problem. I sent an pm. Would you rather I send you pm or respond here?

[Dirtydeeds]

Disassembled, cleaned, and restored 5 old level winds for a Client yesterday.

Ambassadeur 4000, 5500, 5000, Shakespeare SKP 2000, plus a Penn MAG 10.  All work like watches now, but really got hung up on the Penn 10 -- it had been damaged inside in and around the level wind assembly.  So after having it apart 8 times to isolate various issues -- ended up replacing the worm screw, pawl, worm shield, nylon idler gear, and the brass worm drive gear, and more.







Best Regards,

Fred










[Fred I was givin a Shakespeare SKP 2000, looked brand new so I cleaned it lubed it and it felt hard to turn the handle afterwards. I thought this is junk and kicked it to the side. After reading this post It inspired me to take one more look at this reel and under close examination it had a penny size copper thrust washer under the driveshaft raising it up just enough to make drive shaft rub on the c-clip so I removed that and she started working like new again. So just wanted to say thanks for your input and to let you know you helped me indirectly. One more step in the right direction for me.]

[foakes]

Good figuring it out, DD --

There is less difference than we realize -- in any of our experience levels -- we are all on the same journey.

We are all at just different points on the same road.

Good save on that Shakes 2000,

Best,

Fred

[jackpine]

foakes, your shop is a site to behold.

Are there any reels that you are looking for?

[foakes]

Thanks, jackpine --

Yes, looking for a ABU or Zebco Cardinal 3 for my personal use.

I am sure some Ohana member on here will have one that I can buy or trade out for -- either way is fine.

Appreciate your asking...

Best,

Fred

[Soren Bredberg]

I give up. It takes me forever to open these images. Sorry Fred there must be a better way. I own one D.A.M. spinning reel which has never been used reason being I wanted one but could not afford one back in the 1950s.
Soren