Isolating unlike metals to prevent Electrolisis

Started by jonnou, September 14, 2014, 10:19:40 AM

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jonnou

I did a pre fish sevice on my Maxell seawolf 80w and noticed there were areas where Stainless went right against the anodised Aluminium frame. I Know this is not Ideal so I thought about ways to remedy this.
Here is a very cheep and easy solution I wanted to share.
$4 contact a clear sheet with one adhesive side



Cut to size roughly



stick onto affected surface


cut of excess I used the end of a shifting spanner and rubbed. The two hard surfaces cut the plastic nicely

I hope this works and when I service next time will either peel off or be removed with a bit of solvent
the thickness of this material was thinner than my cheep digital verniers would reliably measure

Other options would be thin vinyl as used by signwriters more robust but thicker

appreciate any thoughts
Cheers Jon


cwillis85

Very similar to what it did with my daughters fishing reel to pretty it up with mickey mouse. When talking to the sign makers they were estimaing the cheap thin vinyl I used to last approximately 1 year due to the adhesive being somewhat water soluble.  Contact paper is of about the same quality as the vinyl I used so I would suspect unless you are getting a lot of mechanical wear on it, your contact paper would need to be replaced about every year. If you like your results preventing corrosion with the contact paper let me know. For the cost of shipping me a set of patterns and cost of a roll ofcontact paper I could easily copy your pattern onto my computer and use the vinyl cutter to mass produce these for you or anyone else. Might be a whole new way of keeping corrosion away. As for using a better quality vinyl, the marine vinyl that I bought to redo the decals on my Grady White are twice as thick as the cheaper vinyl. I would think that the thickness would cause fitment issues. Probably best to use the thin stuff and change it with every service. Good idea here, hope it keeps the nasties away.  :)
Chris

crackerman

Since the screws are still completing he metallic path, if any electrolyte (salty residue) is left in contact with the edges of the stainless and aluminum, you will still see some corrosion of the aluminum, although not nearly as severe as previous.

Alto Mare

The best product to prevent corrosion is called : NO REEL ;D
I will try anything, but be careful with sticker in the reel, if they peel away, they could cause some serious damage to your gear.
Frequent service and keeping everything well greased would be your best bet, but you never know :-\.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

gstours

Hello; another solution might be a type of grease that is specifically designed to do what you want it to do   that is  preventing and eliminating electrolysis.   There is the same application only on dry land that is in almost every household.  Namely the copper or aluminum cables that feeds the power (electricity) into your main power panel.  Thes cables are generally coated with this grease and 2 or more dissimilar metals are tightly clamped togather, then usually forgotten......corrosion causes loss of contact area, and heating of the parts and fires or shorting out or?????
There are many brands on the market, a good hardware store would carry some in a small tube........if not try a electrical supply outfit, its really common in their industry.
It is not runny, usually a pretty color, and may work well for this application,  This would be my solution,      Like you know your already using sst screws to an alum frame, or threaded brass or? It would work on all metals I would think.             Many people just use yamaha blue grease on everything except drags and bearings......IT ROCKS....thats my 2 cents worth.

handi2

I use Tuf Gel on my boat fasteners but haven't tried it on any reel.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

jonnou

Yes I use Yamaha blue but in this case there is a large surface area of contact so a gasket of inert material seemed the best solution
this was very easy to do and cheap
SS screw are as you say the point of least resistance
this brings the situation back to the same as any reel with the quadrant plate on standoff pins
this is a new reel so there is no corrosion will service it again after a season and see
all the contact is between mating surfaces so there is no possibility of peeling off prematurely.
this would work well for reel seat gaskets IMO
thanks for the feedback
still got the yamaha on those ss screws
always trying to fight the enemy (corrosion)
Jon

melkapule

When installing alum underground services we coated the cable with penetrox. The meter sockets were a copper alloy.

alantani

a light coat of grease on all the parts should do the job....   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

jonnou

It sure will Alan you have proved this over and over :) :)
there is still a coat of grease on the anodising just a sticker on the stainless.
just an easy gasket.
might be cursing when I try to peel it off in 12m :D

Slazmo

Nickle Grease 'Anti Seize' it is a actual anti corrosive grease for dissimilar metal electrolysis...

Mind you mitigate the water contact of any reel and you wouldn't have this issue.

Can any drain holes be added to the reel eg: 1mm drain holes in the side plates? I did this to all my 6500 series Abu Ambassadeurs and no corrosion to date.

jonnou

Most lever drags I have worked on have drainage where sideplate and frame meet. The gasket idea I still think is sound. but it seems others are happy with the grease.
Cheers Jon

Maxed Out

I love the gasket idea and I believe will work better than planned. Thanks for sharing. I am going to try this on a few things on my aluminum boat, cause sometimes you just cant trust grease.
We Must Never Forget Our Veterans....God Bless Them All !!

jonnou

I have a Aluminium boat that was built in 1992 I Know what you mean ;) ;)