bearings

[Shark Hunter]

I don't want to push my luck with them Ted. They have been very good to me lately.
I did a little research and most bearings in these particular sizes have a ZZ designation at the end or have rubber seals.
I think they are made in Germany.
https://www.kugellager-shop.net/

[Robert Janssen]

Dude, not even I know that, or if I did I have forgotten. Those are completely normal class P5 bearings, sourced in Europe from the same supplier for many years. I have no idea where they are actually made. Even the European bearing giants like SKF and INA have factories all over the world. The designations mentioned are only indicative of type and spec. S for stainless, Z for metal shield and the numbers show type and size. They are not custom made.

.

[Shark Hunter]

I figured as much Robert, I just wanted to see if anyone knew something about them.

[mikeysm]

Robert is correct they are a standard bearing grade 5. Stainless steel with metal shields. They are a metric size also.

Mike

[Vjtrey1]

I have daiwa saltist 20 hc. Does changing the bushing in cast control knob to a ball bearing will do any changes or benefit/s? Or it is not necessary to upgrade? Thank you

Vhon

[johndtuttle]

I have daiwa saltist 20 hc. Does changing the bushing in cast control knob to a ball bearing will do any changes or benefit/s? Or it is not necessary to upgrade? Thank you

Vhon

This post belongs in the Daiwa section but to answer you the bushing makes no effective difference. Properly lubing your bearings will have the most potential benefit. That bushing only supports the spool shaft under load, not during regular casting.

[Walt]

Have found the easiest way to remove a stuck bearing is to heat up the casing the the bearing is in.
Aluminum has a very high coefficient of expansion and a little heat goes a long way. The heat will
expand the housing that the bearing is in and the bearing will usually come out very easily. The steel
outer race of the bearing will expand too but not nearly as much as the aluminum will. Making extraction
possible.DO NOT use a flame to do this.
You will destroy your reel finish. Instead use very hot water. If it gets stubborn submerge the housing in
boiling water for about 15 seconds. If anything is stuck in aluminum try this trick , it will work
wonders.

Walt

[handi2]

I use a small "crack" torch many times to expand metal to get bearings loose and screws out on a reel. It's amazing how much heat you can use without damaging the finish on a reel.

Only when a heat gun won't do it!!

[Hamachi]

This seems like a good time to introduce one of my hacks. What we are going to do is make a rudimentary slide hammer to aid in bearing removal. All you need is a thick piece of coat hanger material and a file and a few minutes of your time. File a knob onto the end and bend some kind of a stop on the other end. Then all you need is a pair of pliers or adjustable wrench to use as your slide hammer. Works on all except the toughest of bearings, oh, just tilt it side to side as you tap the wrench up. Mine ended up around nine inches long. "Hamachi hacks". One more thing, take the bearing cup out of the plastic or graphite side plate to avoid cracking it on stubborn bearings, anchor the cup in a soft jawed vise.

[handi2]

Looks great!

I do have a set of bearing pullers that work on 90% of bearings but sometimes you need a trick like this.

[mo65]

It's funny how being away from the shop a few years lets one forget everything they ever learned...well...at least I have! I've been prying on a Mag 10 spool bearing for 2 weeks with no success. Seeing Hamachi's hack reminded me I could pull and twist on this little bearing for the next 5 years and prolly still never get it out of the cap without some "impact". I merely put the cap in the vise...clamped vise grips on my "puller"(fashioned from a nail)...and tapped the vice grips with a hammer. POP! Sheesh...

[AbyN]

Hello all,

1st off, what an amazing website! Great job A.T.

ok, i recently purchased some ZPI Sic-bb bearings for my shimano.

do i install them "as is" or do i need to apply some lube?

Thanks

[alantani]

a light oil will do.  been using TSI 321 the most, lately. 

[fishhawk]

It's funny how being away from the shop a few years lets one forget everything they ever learned...well...at least I have! I've been prying on a Mag 10 spool bearing for 2 weeks with no success. Seeing Hamachi's hack reminded me I could pull and twist on this little bearing for the next 5 years and prolly still never get it out of the cap without some "impact". I merely put the cap in the vise...clamped vise grips on my "puller"(fashioned from a nail)...and tapped the vice grips with a hammer. POP! Sheesh...

Thanx Mo!
Mark

[Reel Beaker]

Hi,

May i know how a bad ball bearings feels or sound like? If you do not want to remove the shield on the ball bearings, how are you going to access the condition its in?