swag tool that doesn't break the bank?

Started by Shiftee, March 10, 2015, 03:29:15 AM

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Shiftee

I decided to put together some big boy land based rigs (800# 49 strand AFW and 20/0 mustad circles). Didn't think about the fact that I'd need to crimp 2.9mm sleeves. Both tools I have now max out at 2.2mm. Anyone know of a cheap tool to do the job? Hate to spend $129.99 on a tool to make 4-6 leaders a season.

Shark Hunter

I stick with the 480 lb cable and use the 2.2 copper crimps.
I use 1.6 on the sliding trace. They can bite through 1000 lb cable if they can get a good bite on it.
I use coated cable and strip off just enough for the crimps.
Just my theory, but I think the coated cable keeps it from unwinding if it gets bit.
My biggest rigs use #22 Tooth proof wire.
Also, you want to use copper crimps and not aluminum.
I just use a kingfisher hand crimper and it has made a couple dozen rigs. I also keep it with me in case I need to cut the wire.
Life is Good!

Shiftee

#2
Quote from: Shark Hunter on March 10, 2015, 03:54:22 AM
I stick with the 480 lb cable and use the 2.2 copper crimps.
I use 1.6 on the sliding trace. They can bite through 1000 lb cable if they can get a good bite on it.
I use coated cable and strip off just enough for the crimps.
Just my theory, but I think the coated cable keeps it from unwinding if it gets bit.
My biggest rigs use #22 Tooth proof wire.
Also, you want to use copper crimps and not aluminum.
I just use a kingfisher hand crimper and it has made a couple dozen rigs. I also keep it with me in case I need to cut the wire.

I've got a couple rigs from last season that are 480#. Figured I'd step it up this year since we're entering the hammer challenge but I guess it's not worth purchasing a big crimping tool. Cheapest I could find was the hi-seas tool at $129. I was gonna run

20/ Mustad-->15' 800#trace--> heavy spro 6--> to 15' bullbuster 500#mono-->500# ball bearing coast lock

Guess I'll stick with the 480#

I've got mustad's cheapo tool and a decent p-line stainless tool. Both are fine but max out at 2.2mm. The wire cutting slot is a little difficult to navigate on them though. I've always got the bolt cutters handy on the beach.

Shark Hunter

That sounds like a winning combination Cole. A lot of guys don't like wire, but as far as getting bitten off, I would rather run it. They say they get more hook ups with cable. I still use cable, But also 19 and 22 wire.
For a  cable rig, I run 12' of 480, then about 20' of 400 lb for the sliding trace to the main line.
I also use thimbles on all my crimp connections and 600lb Rosco swivels.
The 20/0 Mustad is a proven hook and most of the time, that is what I have on the other end, But I really like The VMC 16 too.
VMC on top and Catch all 18/0 under. Another fine hook, and I like that it is steel. It will rust out if something goes wrong and I can't get it out. It is also very sharp and cheap too. Catch All Tackle sells these. The hooks on the table above are some that a member here sent me. They have the profile of a VMC 16, but are way thicker and ringed. I think they might be super mutu's.

The sliding trace on these two rigs is cable. My main line will be the shock leader.
I called my crimper a Kingfisher. Its a Sea Striker. :P
Best 20 bucks I ever spent. ;)

Life is Good!

Shiftee

#4
Quote from: Shark Hunter on March 10, 2015, 04:52:28 AM
That sounds like a winning combination Cole. A lot of guys don't like wire, but as far as getting bitten off, I would rather run it. They say they get more hook ups with cable. I still use cable, But also 19 and 22 wire.
For a  cable rig, I run 12' of 480, then about 20' of 400 lb for the sliding trace to the main line.
I also use thimbles on all my crimp connections and 600lb Rosco swivels.
The 20/0 Mustad is a proven hook and most of the time, that is what I have on the other end, But I really like The VMC 16 too.
VMC on top and Catch all 18/0 under. Another fine hook, and I like that it is steel. It will rust out if something goes wrong and I can't get it out. It is also very sharp and cheap too. Catch All Tackle sells these. The hooks on the table above are some that a member here sent me. They have the profile of a VMC 16, but are way thicker and ringed. I think they might be super mutu's.

The sliding trace on these two rigs is cable. My main line will be the shock leader.
I called my crimper a Kingfisher. Its a Sea Striker. :P
Best 20 bucks I ever spent. ;)





Thanks Brother. Another thing I don't like about the 800lb cable is that I can't find it coated. I do everything I can to reduce magnetic signature given off by my gear. I'm even trying out plastidip on my hooks this year. I know it won't hold up to multiple hook ups but who cares. I can reapply it in between trips and if it brings one more big boy around it will be worth it.

A lot of people like those sea striker tools. My mustad looks just like that. The p-line is a little more ergonomic and has a decent amount of padding on the handles but it doesnt give as much leverage.

I'll have to check out those VMC hooks. I like the mustad's and you're right they're tried and true, but I've always wondered if Owner's and Gamakatsu's with their wider gap and smaller size may induce more runs? Looks like the VMC may be the same idea.

alantani

i took one of mine and drilled it out to fit exactly, also chamfered the crimping surfaces.  it's important to make sure the crimps are consistent and exact.
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Shark Hunter

That's good thinking Boss. I never thought of drilling it out to fit a bigger crimp.
Life is Good!

Shiftee

Quote from: alantani on March 10, 2015, 10:00:17 PM
i took one of mine and drilled it out to fit exactly, also chamfered the crimping surfaces.  it's important to make sure the crimps are consistent and exact.

This is why we pay you the big bucks...well, metaphorically speaking of course. Please don't start charging for advice, we'd all go broke.

Shiftee

#8
Quote from: Shark Hunter on March 10, 2015, 04:52:28 AM
That sounds like a winning combination Cole. A lot of guys don't like wire, but as far as getting bitten off, I would rather run it. They say they get more hook ups with cable. I still use cable, But also 19 and 22 wire.


Way I look at i is damned if you do damned if ya don't. Run cable and you can get bitten off. Run wire and between rolling and running you get a kink and snap off. I wonder how the stats break down for both.

What kind of weights do you guys use? We run a length of super light mono to a brick. Just heavy enough to hold. That way when the bait is taken the brick breaks free.

Shark Hunter

Bay side, just a Pyramid. Shore side, Spider weight.

Life is Good!

Three se7ens

Just how common are bite-offs?  Ive landed about a dozen sharks between 7' and 10', and have yet to even see a nick on the doubled up 200 lb or so cable I used for a bite leader.  All were from a boat, but most fights were 45 min to an hour, with the longest being 4 hours. 

Shark Hunter

I can't answer that Adam. I haven't had one myself. I've seen it happen several times. Its usually braid getting cut on the sand bars.
I just try to learn from more experienced Shark Fisherman than myself and listen to their advice. I haven't been steered wrong yet.
Fishing from a Boat is a whole different game. Bringing the Shark in over the bars introduces all kinds of obstacles you don't have from a boat.
Life is Good!

Shiftee

Quote from: Three se7ens on March 11, 2015, 02:52:14 AM
Just how common are bite-offs?  Ive landed about a dozen sharks between 7' and 10', and have yet to even see a nick on the doubled up 200 lb or so cable I used for a bite leader.  All were from a boat, but most fights were 45 min to an hour, with the longest being 4 hours. 

I've never been bitten off, nor have any of the guys I fish with. I feel relatively safe with cable. But I've seen pictures of a frayed cable leader and heard tales.

Three se7ens

#13
There are so many variables, its hard to say anything about past instances other people had.  Personally, I think that heavy of cable is overkill, and falls more under people trying to get long life out of rigs.  I consider mine basically disposable.  After a fight with a large shark, the 300 lb mono leader gets tossed.  If the swivels arent deformed, Ill save them for another use.  The bite leader is just 200 lb or so(i dont remember the exact number) cable, about 8" long, double crimped on each end.  I use aluminum crimps for the mono, and copper for the cable, and the rigs are pretty cheap.  Certainly cheap enough I dont feel bad tossing them after a single big shark, and cheap enough to keep a dozen or more with me.  

As for getting broken off on the bars, thats a whole different world.  Daron's 14/0's with 130 lb mono are about the only defense about that.  Getting main line break-offs is perfectly understandable, and even more reason in my book to not go nuts with the leader.  The leader only needs to be heavy enough to outlast the shark.

btw, fishing my rigs back to back with all cable rigs of the same length, I have consistently gotten more bites on my rigs that only use cable as an 8" bite leader, and 300 lb mono for the rest.

Shark Hunter

I agree with you Adam. Maybe when I get some More Under my Belt, I can tell you more. ;)
The break off on the Bars are either from Shells or other Sharks.
Their skin is tough and abrasive.
You know how you catch a descent fish? It maybe a Smallmouth Bass or even a Bluegill.
When you can actually see the fish, There is the same size of fish circling around them. They get worked up in a frenzy. They are not sure what's going on, but they want in on the action.
I think that is what happens with a lot with break offs. When you are reeling in a Shark. There are other sharks around. When they get to that first bar, one of them swims into the line or goes crazy and just tries to eat the other. They are Predators. They eat each other and whatever they can fit in their mouth if they get caught up in the moment. That's why my leader is 30 feet long.
Life is Good!