Aviation Greases

[Quoc_Pham]

Hello everyone,

By trade I'm an aircraft mechanic... and we can't fix stupid... but we'll give it a try! Anywho, I couldn't help thinking about the massive amounts of different greases we have available to us and wanted to see if anyone local and experienced with toying with reels to give me (or everyone on this website) some insight? Located in Orange County, CA.

If anyone knew how to better interpret the specs of the greases below, these are two that I can think of that may apply well to the reels (not the drags).

First one is called SHC100
http://www.exxonmobil.com/USA-English/Aviation/PDS/GLXXENAVIEMMobil_Aviation_Grease_SHC_100.aspx

Second one is called AeroShell 33
https://www.shell.com/global/products-services/solutions-for-businesses/aviation/aeroshell/products/greases/grease-33ms.html


I'll really need to do some resistance tests of sorts (maybe slap some grease between plexiglass and slide them apart?) since I have no access to the Yamaha Blue Grease Specs, is the Yamaha Blue http://www.chemtool.com/products/grease-products.html the same as the ChemTool Alpha 2000?

[foakes]

Hi Quoc --

The greases you refer to, are not salt water resistant.

For that a "Marine Rated" grease is necessary.

Marine seems to be the accepted word to describe salt water resistant in the grease world.

Having some experience in aviation -- I do know that a Marine salt resistant grease is not typically needed for aircraft.  At the point that an aircraft, either fixed wing or rotor, comes into contact with salt water -- the  systems using grease on a plane are generally no longer a priority.

Exceptions would be planes on floats.  But even then, av techs use salt resistant greases that need to be changed and relubed quite often.

Also, the first two greases you cite have a Lithium component.  In my experience, lithium binds up and becomes very stiff when stored -- whether it is in a reel -- or still in the applicator tube -- particularly in colder weather.

But if you try these -- give us a report.

Hard to beat Yamaha Marine, Penn Blue, or Cal's -- they just work extremely well.

These are just my opinions -- always looking to learn something new and better.

Let us know,

Thanks,

Fred

[Quoc_Pham]

I may just need to go to the ocean and grab a gallon of salt water and do some kind of home 5th grade science fair project in the time being. Until then thanks for the input.

I've got Cal's and Blue Yamaha... So I guess why mess with something that works... If it ain't broke don't fix it!

I should just spend my time fishing instead of messing around

[Tiddlerbasher]

If it ai'nt broke improve it

[Reel 224]

I may just need to go to the ocean and grab a gallon of salt water and do some kind of home 5th grade science fair project in the time being. Until then thanks for the input.

I've got Cal's and Blue Yamaha... So I guess why mess with something that works... If it ain't broke don't fix it!

I should just spend my time fishing instead of messing around

If we just remain dormant without question or curiosity, then we would never advance in technology.   

[johndtuttle]

I may just need to go to the ocean and grab a gallon of salt water and do some kind of home 5th grade science fair project in the time being. Until then thanks for the input.

I've got Cal's and Blue Yamaha... So I guess why mess with something that works... If it ain't broke don't fix it!

I should just spend my time fishing instead of messing around

Sal did a basic test of an Iron Nail suspended in saltwater in little cups over a week. The untreated nail was completely eaten. Standard grease was very good and the marine grease treated nail came out looking like it had never been submerged in anything. Penn was even a tiny bit better than Yamalube but not worth quibbling about.

The post is around here somewhere.

Final Analysis: Marine Grease is AMAZING protection even for continually submerged parts and people fish reels *underwater* packed with grease and have *decades* of service from the reels.

It is not remotely broke.