The Jigmaster Project

Started by Rothmar2, April 30, 2015, 10:51:52 AM

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mhc

Quote from: Rothmar2 on September 16, 2015, 11:25:10 AM
Have you had a chance to modify the clicker further to stop it jumping out? They can be very touchy those, doesn't take a whole lot of metal removal to drastically change their characteristics.

Not yet Chris, Still a bit busy and don't want to rush it and like you said, it can be touchy. I have another plate on the way and will sit down and fine tune both of them when I'm not distracted.
Those lugs look good - with all the upgrades to jigmaster gears, drags and bridges etc that are happening, you might have to find a way of putting them on the top of the reel as harness lugs!   
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Rothmar2

#61
I have made a start on a SS frame for this reel.
  Please note, this is no-where near completion, but I have come far enough at this point to prove the concept.

 Here's where it's at...

This started a couple of months ago on my last trip away. I built a punch/die set to bend 8mm SS plate into a blank that could be machined into a frame



Then this trip I have been able to make some progress, but for now I have run into a brick wall (more on that later).

True'd up a piece of plate prior to bending. It's about 5mm wider than finished width to leave plenty of room for machining down later. The 4 holes were drilled in case I needed them later to pull the blank around further. As you will see, they weren't needed, nor would they have worked anyway,  as the plate length was not long enough. It was an offcut piece from pre cutting the 8mm Jigmaster right plate rings.



Set it up on a 20 tonne press. Note the shim steel (0.5mm) between the punch and plate, and between die and plate. These shims were allowed for in calculations for the punch diameter and die gap. I made them to act as a buffer between the mild and stainless. All surfaces are greased prior to pressing.



In it goes....



I soon realised the die needed further re-inforcing, about 1/2 way in and the right edge of the die begins to bend and buckle. So a couple of end pieces were hastily cut and welded to the die, befor re-trying.



Eventually got it all the way down.



But the sides of the bent piece were no where near parallel....might have to build up the sides of the die if/before attempting to make another.

So removed the punch/plate from the die, reclamped the pieces together with a G-clamp and was able to get some extra bending done on a vice.



But the 4 holes I drilled in the plate to squeeze it around further weren't going to work (ie plate piece too short).

So break out the oxy to heat the plate and bend a bit further around by squeezing the ends in the vice jaws.



Once I was confident I had bent the plate far enough, I heated the whole lot up with a propane burner for about an hour to equalize the temperature before quenching in a large bucket of water. This was done as a sort of attempt to relieve stress from bending. To do this properly, you would have to heat the entire piece to 1050 degs before quenching, but a partial anneal can be done quenching from around 380degs, which I was able achieve here.



Once the assembly was cooled I was able to remove the bent plate, by detaching one end of the punch, which was held on by a M16 HT cap head bolt.



Quick check that all side plate holes have stainless underneath them, all good.



Next up I had to make a jig for drilling the holes. I started off by cutting three pieces of 85x85x10mm mild steel and tack welding them together flat on top of each other. Then find the centre, and mark out the position of two other holes, one that will lie inside the rough shaped frame, and another out near the open part of the frame.
The centre hole was drilled 10mm and the other two 6mm. This was done while the 3 pieces were together so to insure these 3 location holes would be identical on all three plates. The left end plate was then mounted over the centre hole with a special made draw clamp to keep it centalised, and the frame holes were  transfer punched to the stacked plates. The 6 holes were drilled through the plates with a 2.5mm drill (major mistake). I then mounted these 3 joined pieces on the lathe and used a length of M10 all thread as a drawbar through the self centering 3 jaw, and then machined the plates down to discs (similar as to what I do when making the SS rings).
The positioner rods were made from diesel injector push rods (scrapped parts after some overhauls) and modified so the butt end press fitted into the 6mm location holes. Finally one plate was skimmed to form a slight ridge , which was ever so slightly under the rough ID of the frame.
 The finished jig....(sorry about lack of jig fabrication pics...I was on a mission!)





Before going ahead and drilling the frame holes, the rough frame was mounted in a 4-jaw chuck to flatten the end edges of the frame. The plate does warp a bit from the bending and heat forming process. This was done to make sure the drills had a flat contact surface.
  Set the frame into the jig, and mount the jig onto the drill stand with a clamp kit. All critical drilling has been clamped during the course of this project. It's the only way to maintain (reasonable) accuracy.



And pattern drilled into the ends....





Now this is where it has gone pear shaped. Next step was the set one end as a datum, and tap the holes 5-40 UNC, so I could bolt the rough frame to a faceplate (the 3rd piece of steel drilled) so I could machine the frame to the correct width.
 My mistake drilling the clearance holes 2.5mm soon revealed itself, yep you guessed it, broke the taper tap after 1 1/2 holes. Fortunately it broke above the hole edge and I was easily able to get the remains out.
 When I checked the Machinery Handbook afterwoods, it mentions not tapping 316 SS with taper taps as the finer entry of the tap workhardens the chip, and causes excess load to these small taps.....yes that's true. They recommend intermediate and plug taps only. I also checked the clearance hole diameter and it should be 2.6mm. That 0.1mm surely must make a difference. As this was my only tap, things have now come to a halt until I'm next back to work in about 6 weeks.

I already have plans for the reel foot, but will reveal that later.

Still no garentee that it will work. First litmus test will be when all the holes are tapped, and I can test fit the spool and side plates.

But the bending/ machining concept I think can be achieved, just need to get this first frame to full completion to prove it. See what happens in 6 weeks time.

Rothmar2

#62
There seems to be a bit of a problem with the photobucket links, I have no idea why some photo's have doubled up, I am trying to fix this....

Edit - Fixed!!

ReelCurious

I have to say, this is a fascinating project.  Good job to you.

Alto Mare

Chris, I'm always amazed by your skills, thanks for sharing your projects with us.
I just stickied it, I don't want this thread to disappear.
Great job!...keep it alive.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Rothmar2

Thank you Sal, I'm honored by your gesture.
I will keep this alive if the interest is there. But this thread is likely to go a fair bit longer than the 6/0 project. My twisted head keeps coming up with more things to try.
I hope some are inspired by what I put up. It also helps me as something to go back to if I get a "how did I do that?" moment.
Thanks for having me here.

Penn Chronology

QuoteI will keep this alive if the interest is there. But this thread is likely to go a fair bit longer than the 6/0 project. My twisted head keeps coming up with more things to try.

A pleasure to watch you work.

Rancanfish

Mr. Chris,  Are you kidding? Of course there is interest. I was sitting here in a dark kitchen having a cup of my morning coffee, when I realized I just said 'Wow', right out loud!  ;D

I am envious of your trade skills.
I woke today and suddenly nothing happened.

mhc

Hi Chris, I'm always impressed with your innovation and attention to detail, particularly the thought and effort you put into preparation with jigs etc, it's extraordinary. Will the process you are developing work with aluminium as well? I think it has potential for stands as well as half frames. 
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

mhc

Hello Chris, I finally got around to modifying the clicker to stop it jumping out. I gave the clicker tongue a few strokes with a 1/8" round file on each side to sharpen the 'shoulder'. Like you said, it didn't take much and now stays engaged.





The recess where the ring sits on the replacement plate I picked up was a slightly larger diameter than the one I broke and the SS ring would not fit. I didn't want to force it so I ran a triangular file around the recess to make it a firm fit - again it didn't take much.

It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Rothmar2

#70
Hi Mike,  Sorry I haven't replied sooner, I have been pretty knocked out with the flu the last week or so.
Am glad you have been able to sort the ratchets out. Funny how there is always a few little subtle differences with the side plates, at least you have been able to get around that one as well.

I have finished Eugene's parts. Completed lugs, 2 sets of SS rings, with screws and 2 pcs right sideplate lock screws. I hope you like them Eugene!


jigmaster501

That looks like some beautiful work right there.

I will throw those on 2 reels with Tiburon frames and make beast reels...


Dominick

Hey Rothmar, that work deserves a big WOW from me.  Beautiful work.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

steelhead_killer

Unbelievable work!  Where was I when they were handing out talent like that?
><)))">

thorhammer

just saw this....WOW. I'm happy to get two 2x4's screwed squarely. what a skillset!!!!! not to mention some cool toys to work with.