The Jigmaster Project

Started by Rothmar2, April 30, 2015, 10:51:52 AM

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mhc

#150
Great work Chris (again) the narrow frames are looking good. I'm glad you could use the 12T stands with a bit of modification. BTW - I wouldn't consider it 'cheating' to make use of existing components - your frames are the centre piece of the project - and the rings of course, and the clickers, side plate lock screws, rod clamp kit, eccentric lever, handle and grip.

Mike
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Alto Mare

At times when I think you might have ruined one of your parts, it always comes back looking amazing from you ironing it out.
As always, beautiful work!

Sal

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

David Hall

#152
Always makes me smile and feel good when I see the things you come up with I can't help but think anything is possible.
  ;D ;D ;D ;D

Rothmar2

Sal, I've had a few heart in mouth moments this past couple of weeks, and have just had another this morning....but it should be OK. I work on the principle "measure at least 3 times, attempt to cut once, and if for a moment something doesn't seem right, stop and re-assess....then start again". Truth be known, I've had a broken tap and a drill during the course of these two narrow frames. Both of which took a fair bit of careful work to remove and then rectify the scars. That's a good thing with using stainless for me, I can weld and re-fair it if need be. I had to do this once on one of these frames.
  This morning was drilling the cut-outs on the frame. The radius in the corner of cut-out comes dangerously close to the reel seat screw holes. I don't think I'll use the 12T seats again. Going to have to be extra careful around this area when doing the final shaping/fairing. I won't be able to get a pic up until next week to show what I mean.
Thanks again for your interest guys. Yep, anything is possible, just takes time, will and effort.

Rothmar2

#154
I had noticed that since adding the SS gear sleeve that there was a little bit of radial slop while turning the handle.
It got me thinking about an arrangement to support the handle end of the sleeve.
  I had previously made a SS spacer, and felt it was a little too short by about 0.5mm, as there didn't seem to be any increase in drag over the first turn of the star, even with a coarse thread.
 So remove the bridge and gears and get some measurements.


First measure the depth of the opening. It's about 9mm deep, but the little grooves where this piece has been expanded with a press and die I'm guessing are about 2mm, so effective bearing surface is 7mm wide.



Measuring the width, 13.4mm



Here's the spacer sleeve, a shade under 12mm, the new piece will be 12.4mm when finished.



Now I had an off cut of 25mm black delrin, which I was going to use as the bearing surface. Drilled the bore out to 12mm.





Next rough out the new sleeve in an old 316 SS pump shaft. The shoulder is 13.2mm, and the stem is a shade over 12mm diameter





Centre drill the end, then bring up a 10mm drill to bore the spacer



Once drilled, I had to carefully clean up the bore with some coarse emery to widen it out a touch, to get the sleeve to fit through



Once happy, then push the delrin piece over the stem of the new spacer until it butts up against the 13.2mm shoulder.



Then start trimming the delrin back. Face off to the length of the sleeve. Then trim down the diameter.



Unfortunately, the delrin started to slip and pull off the sleeve.



So roughed up the stem with some coarse emery



Then skimmed a couple of very fine grooves with the tip of the lathe tool on the sleeve to provide some hold for the glue
Pushed the delrin back on with some of this to bond the pieces together. Waited a half hour or so to let it cure.



Was then able to skim the delrin sleeve down to 13.4mm, without further slippage. And check for a snug fit



Then trimmed 2mm off the length so the delrin would not get torn up by the grooves in side plate insert



Piece parted off and ready to be used.



Reassemble bridge to plate. Put the new sleeve in before tightening down the 4 bridge screws.



And all together.



Time will tell if the delrin will hold up, but for the time being, the slop has now gone from the crank. There is a barely perceptible rub to be felt at this point. I will put a thin smear of grease over this bearing at a later stage.


mo65

Hey, that spacer is the whip! That radial slop drives me crazy. I'd love to have a handful of those.
~YOU CAN TUNA GEETAR...BUT YOU CAN'T TUNA FEESH~


Fishy247

Just discovered this thread...great way to kill a couple of hours at work! Amazing stuff you're doing there. That jigmaster is truly a work of art! Do you know the weight of it yet?

Mike

mhc

I know you said you were setting this reel up for light trolling and intend to use a stock drag set up, but I'm thinking with the continuous improvements, including this latest brilliant addition of supporting the gear sleeve with a delrin encased stainless spacer, it wouldn't hurt to add a couple of drag washers - even to the existing steel gear. The reel still has the quick spool change feature - you could fish light line and drag as you said but have the option of changing to a spool of heavier braid if you change your mind.

Mike   
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Rothmar2

#158
Have all but finished the first 501 frame. Just a bit more polishing to do, and then I'll be sending it off to Mike.
Thanks for all your patience and help with parts and tooling for this project mate, I really hope you like this frame. Make sure you post up a few pix with it assembled with some plates. Will probably be another week or so before I will get my 501 frame finished.
I'll then get back onto completing the 500.




mike1010

Beautiful, Chris.  I hope someone from Penn is following and appreciating this.

Alto Mare

#160
Chris, if you are not proud of that piece right there, there is something wrong with you.
This has been a nice ride, thank you! Also, thanks for being a member here and sharing your talent with us...amazing work!

You're right Mike, that piece belongs in the case at Penn.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Shark Hunter

Great work Chris. That is one well earned frame!
Life is Good!

STRIPER LOU

Chris, absolutely brilliant work. Its been a pleasure to follow. Keep at it my man!
Regard's,  ..  Lou

Rothmar2

Cheers guys. Yeah, pretty happy with this one Sal, and happier that it is going to Mike. He has procured a lot of the taps & dies, extra parts (Alan C's, Adam's, and some eBay stuff) that have gone into this project. Most of this had come from overseas, so the freight charges alone are scarey. I would also like to thank Tom Hryniuk, he has been a big help ensuring we get the correct taps/dies. Unified National standard is not very common here in Australia, particularly in the smaller diameters and high TPI sizes. Tom has assisted with getting in some of the tooling we have needed. Thank you Tom!
Lou, you commented about what a blast it would be to share a workshop, we'd be like two kids with their first box of matches! Would still like to be able to get my hands on some of that incredible stock you're making your pieces of art from.
Fishy247 (Mike) I went looking for the digi scales at home today to get a weight figure for the 500 for you. Haven't been able to find them....yet. But will get a figure for you at ASAP. I'll warn you now, the 500 is no lightweight! The 501 frames, while still adding a bit of weight, will be less noticeably so.
I have a couple more 501 frames bent. There will be a surprise down the track with at least one of those. It will come together next time at work. Credit in advance to Mike for the concept. Looking forward to making it happen!

thorhammer

Thanks for this amazing thread my man! That's just out of my mind how you conceptualize this stuff and then beast a piece of metal into realization.  I'd have as much success painting the Mona Lisa in the dark with a rattle can.

Thor