Okuma Cavalla 50Wii

Started by boghy, February 10, 2011, 09:19:01 AM

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mohamedhashem21

Quote from: boghy on May 25, 2011, 11:38:38 PM
Finally, i managed to snap some photos on how to tune-up your Okuma Cavalla 50w drag.

Before you do any change to this reel you need to call Okuma at (909)-923-2828 (ext 2) to order one belleville (everything cost under $5), but NOT from Okuma Cavalla 50w, instead order one bellevilles from Okuma Solterra SLR-15CS part number 16090013 named in the schematics as "SPRING WASHER". Weird? Yeah, that's what i thought at first.

Here is how this belleville looks like:

1


2


3


After you have this part ordered, you'll need to make another change to this reel.
Take the reel apart as shown in this topic, till you get to this steep:



There you'll gonna see the 2 bellevilles that comes originally set as such "()". Change that from "()" to "((". When you do that change, make sure that the 2 bellevilles when are set as: left side [bearing] "((" retainer right side.
When that changed was done, install all the parts back till you get to this part:



Take the Okuma Solterra SLR-15cs belleville and the Okuma Cavalla 50w Adjust Block as such:



and mount the Okuma Solterra SLR-15cs belleville INSIDE the Okuma Cavalla 50w Adjust Block as such:



After that, install both parts back in the Level Drag as seen bellow:



From here install back the Cast Control Cap with the spring as shown here:








With all these changes, the drag will increase with ~20lb at full generating around 50lb drag at full spool without loosing freespool.
Anything over 30lb of drag pressure will require to use a belt with a harness, otherwise you'll be in pain - fast!
I would like to hear some feedback from anyone trying this.

Enjoy - boghy!  
great work boghy thank you i own a cavalla and i'll do these changes but i have a question please
can i use any belleville (with the same dimensions of course) in the drag lever as i'm not able to find the soltera's?
thank you

mohamed hashem

boghy

I don't see why not. The only thing that may come down to be different is the drag power since the bellevilles are not the same material.
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mohamedhashem21


Bryan Young

boghy is right.  There are times we switch to thicker/thinner belleville washers to change the drag characteristic of the reel, in addition to changing the configuration or adding or subtracting bellvelles.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

mohamedhashem21

Quote from: Bryan Young on August 01, 2012, 04:06:30 PM
boghy is right.  There are times we switch to thicker/thinner belleville washers to change the drag characteristic of the reel, in addition to changing the configuration or adding or subtracting bellvelles.
thank you bryan :)

daveferrero

Hi! I' m new to the forum and new to multipliers so i have a few question about this reel that I own but still to be used:
what happen if add a standard Belleville alone under the knob without switchin from () to (( ?
thank you
Great great site!

LucasGeneau

Nice reel and great tutorial but some pictures are missing, no just a joke ;D

mohamedhashem21

is the frame of this reel anodized or powder coated?? i have one like i but i feel that the coating is to thick to be anodizing!!

Wolli

After four years in use noticed that the Adjust Block is damaged.
Seems is made from unknown plastic which is too soft. (Delrin?)
As per Okuma Taiwan parts are no longer manufactured..... but no reason to throw the reel away.
You can use the Cam from the Makaira 50W-II plus the Drag Cam Bushing (the ID of the original Cam is smaller).
Fits for hundred pct without any additional alterations!
love jigging    www.jupiter-sunrise-lodge.com/de/
Authorized Jigging Master Service Partner (in Germany)

Tightlines667

Good info here.  Not sure why they used Delron for the cam?  This part needs to be strong and durable.
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

marc77




I purchased a new Cavalla 50W a while back and never used it.  I am thinking of using it this year for Northeast canyon tuna fishing.  Therefore, last night, I disassembled it to lubricate it.

Well, good thing that I did, because to my surprise, there was not a drop of oil or grease anywhere in this reel.  WTF

The reel looks to be of decent quality.  I weighed it and it weighs 52 oz.  It is much lighter than my other 50W reels.  Although, the line capacity is less than the other ones.  I bought it for its light weight and low gear torque. 

When I took it apart, I noticed that the anti-reverse dogs are held in place with a couple of small and rather thin screws.  That has me a bit worried.  Has anyone used one of these reels to catch some good sized tuna?  Any issues with these screws breaking under heavy drag pressure?

Also, the coil springs for the anti-reverse dogs do not look to be very strong.  They are made of very thin wire.  Right now, they are new and work well.  However, after I use this reel a few times, will these springs lose their tension and fail to keep the dogs hugging the gear?

I will not be using this reel for large tuna, sharks or swordfish.  However, I would like to use it for school tuna that may be up to 150 lbs.  Should I be worried that this thing will break in the middle of fighting a fish?

Anyone use one of these reels for an extended period of time, please advise.

Thank you.









;)

sundaytrucka

Quote from: marc77 on May 07, 2016, 01:23:43 AM



I purchased a new Cavalla 50W a while back and never used it.  I am thinking of using it this year for Northeast canyon tuna fishing.  Therefore, last night, I disassembled it to lubricate it.

Well, good thing that I did, because to my surprise, there was not a drop of oil or grease anywhere in this reel.  WTF

The reel looks to be of decent quality.  I weighed it and it weighs 52 oz.  It is much lighter than my other 50W reels.  Although, the line capacity is less than the other ones.  I bought it for its light weight and low gear torque. 

When I took it apart, I noticed that the anti-reverse dogs are held in place with a couple of small and rather thin screws.  That has me a bit worried.  Has anyone used one of these reels to catch some good sized tuna?  Any issues with these screws breaking under heavy drag pressure?

Also, the coil springs for the anti-reverse dogs do not look to be very strong.  They are made of very thin wire.  Right now, they are new and work well.  However, after I use this reel a few times, will these springs lose their tension and fail to keep the dogs hugging the gear?

I will not be using this reel for large tuna, sharks or swordfish.  However, I would like to use it for school tuna that may be up to 150 lbs.  Should I be worried that this thing will break in the middle of fighting a fish?

Anyone use one of these reels for an extended period of time, please advise.

Thank you.









;)

The AR dogs are positioned onto studs that are part of the machined aluminum frame, the screws are there to hold the dogs in position on the studs and keep them aligned at high torque. There are a couple of pictures in the original tutorial on Pg. 1 were you can see the studs.

The springs are a bit soft, but they are meant more as a backup, the silent AR ring that engages and disengage the dogs is the primary mechanism. Still, you can always upgrade the spring to a heavier guage, available through Okuma directly.

I think the reel should do fine for your trip, just depends on the drag you use one those trips and the type of line you are using.

Feel free to ask any more  questions.

-Scott
I don't know how to do everything, but I know how to get everything done.

marc77



Scott:

Thank you for your reply.

I did see the metal studs on the frame.  However, I was not sure if the anti-reverse system also put pressure on the screws that hold the dogs.


I have one more question:  How do you know if the posts on the silent anti-reverse ring are back into the dogs after the reel has been assembled?

I saw Alan's comment on page 1.  It seems that there may be some procedure for getting the posts back into the dogs.

When I re-assembled my reel, I blindly installed the right side plate back onto the frame.  I had to turn the handle back and forth slightly before the plate aligned and positioned back onto the frame.  I thought that was just to get the gears to mesh.

I re-assembled my reel and the anti-reverse seems to be working fine.  However, now I am not sure whether the silent anti-reverse collar pins are set in the dogs.

Please advise.

Thank you.




sundaytrucka

#28
Quote from: marc77 on May 08, 2016, 11:13:34 AM


Scott:

Thank you for your reply.

I did see the metal studs on the frame.  However, I was not sure if the anti-reverse system also put pressure on the screws that hold the dogs.


I have one more question:  How do you know if the posts on the silent anti-reverse ring are back into the dogs after the reel has been assembled?

I saw Alan's comment on page 1.  It seems that there may be some procedure for getting the posts back into the dogs.

When I re-assembled my reel, I blindly installed the right side plate back onto the frame.  I had to turn the handle back and forth slightly before the plate aligned and positioned back onto the frame.  I thought that was just to get the gears to mesh.

I re-assembled my reel and the anti-reverse seems to be working fine.  However, now I am not sure whether the silent anti-reverse collar pins are set in the dogs.

Please advise.

Thank you.







The ring can be a little difficult to sync with the dogs, as Alan mentioned, the pins of the ring must sit into the AR dog to work properly.

After you have everything on the spool assembled, hold the handle side plate in one hand and attempt to position the spool and AR ring into place with the side plate in your hand, this is where the wiggle back and forth comes in, you hold the spool in position, trying to guide the pins of the AR ring to align and drop into the dogs, all while getting the keys on the pinion gears and AR ratchet to line up and drop into place.

Wiggle the handle abruptly and sharply back and forth, getting the pinion gears to drop into position within the AR ratchet. You can also install the pinion gears into the spool assembly prior to attempting fitment with the dogs. Once the pinion begins to line up, make sure the pins on the AR ring are immediately to the opening of the dog cavity (in relation to the rotation of the spool), you may need a pick or small screwdriver to tap the ring into proper position.  Couple of gently back and forth with the handle should get the ring to drop in.

...Hopefully it all works out, then I grab the frame assembly and slide it over the spool and handle side plate, still in my hand after syncing the dogs, line it up and bolt it on. You have to align the pin and spool shaft with the side plate opening it aligns with.

A little winded, but I hope that helps people, kind of difficult to explain without physically showing it.

-Scott
I don't know how to do everything, but I know how to get everything done.

marc77



Scott:

Thank you for your instruction on how to do it.

I was doing it wrong.  I placed the spool into the frame first.  Then I installed the right side plate assembly.  It is difficult to see the ring pins line up with the holes in the dogs once the spool is in the frame.

Next time, I will install the spool on the right side plate first.  Once everything fits in place, I will slide the frame over the spool and screw it onto the side plate.

Regards