Daiwa Millionaire SW 103

Started by Daisy, February 15, 2011, 10:08:54 AM

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Daisy

Heavy rain today has curbed my enthusiasm to go fish :-\ so I reckon I'll have a go at doing another tutorial :)

I have an admission to make, I'm hopelessly addicted to Barramundi casting and trolling outfits, I guess they would equate to medium/heavy Bass outfits but saltwater safe. if my wife saw them lined up like this I'd probably have some quick talking to do :D

Today I'm going to service my latest purchase a mint conditioned but second hand Daiwa Millionaire SW 103 (red and black 3rd from right). This and the blue and gold one next to it (Daiwa Millionaire Baycast 103) are supertuned versions of the Millionaire CV-Z's designed for the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM).




Righteo down to business, the parts list is in Japanese so I'll have to apply the part names as best I can. It comes with no tooling and a small bottle of red light oil.


The Non-drive side plare screws off.


You can see the Magforce V cast control system, Non-drive side spool bearing and a rubber "O"ring seal to keep that nasty saltwater out. I forgot to mention that SW stands for saltwater model and contains 7 CRBBs (corrosion resistant ball bearing) which are similar to Shimanos AR-Bs and ABUs HPCRs. A question somebody may be able to answer is why they don't make bearings out of 316, 404 or even Titanium and be done with corrosion forever.

The side plates and frames are all CNC machined providing fine tolerances and superior alignment even under load.

The spool slides out and on the non-drive side we can see the magnet inductor cup, on the drive side we can see the other spool bearing and the spool shaft drive pin. Note the spool shaft is fixed to the spool.


In the servicing instructions it indicates to treat the spool bearings with the oil provided.

so that's what we'll do.


It also shows to keep the inductor cup clean.

Lightly coat the inside of the side plate with grease and the side plate and spool are done. I don't think the "O" ring will react to the grease but I'll clean it anyway.
OK over to the driveside, using a small flat screwdriver to ;ift then gently pry off the handle nut retaining cap

The handle nut is the same size as the standard ABU baitcaster spanner.

Remove the handle, drag star (there'll be a cup shaped keyed washer on top of this) and 2 Belleville washers ().


This reel has upgraded handle knobs thanks to the previous owner, these will be bearing supported, a bit of corrosion X through the hole here will do the trick, this is the main reason I put it in a needle oiler.


Only 2 screws hold the driveside plate on.

Undo these and off it comes, place the frame aside and unscrew the spool tensioning knob and remove the spool tensioning pin.

There are 2 bearings in the side plate, the antireverse roller bearing (the roller bearing sleeve may stillbe here or it may be on the crankshaft, if its in here poke it out using a small screwdriver) and the pinion support bearing in the spool tension insert. Treat the roller bearing with corrosion X.

Use a very small jewellers flat to remove the other baerings retaing spring, cover it cos it will fly. Tip out bearing and treat it also with corrosion X.

I am hesitant to grease pack any of the bearings in this reel because it is so light and refined it may affect performance. reinsert bearing and spring. Lightly coat the inside of the plate and we're done.
Onto the fiddly bits, remove the 2 engage return springs and slide the roller bearing sleeve off of the crankshaft (if it's still there0 at this stage you can also remove the main gear which contains the drag stack.


Unfortunately the drag washers are still stock so I'll have to order a set of carbontex washers from Mr Erskine, I wont bother lubricating this system until then.
Remove the levelwind drive cog from the crankshaft, this is plastic and is designed to strip out if anything (such as fingers) get caught in the levelwind. Remove the pinion and pinion engage arm locater.

Spin the levelwind cog on the drive side until the levelwind gets to one end or the other to allow access to the base of the levelwind guide.


Using a large flat screwdriver undo and remove the base.

Then use a pair of pointy nose pliers to remove the pawl.

The levelwind guide will now slide freely back and forth.
Using a very fine point (I used a fine jewellers screw driver) gently lever out the E clip on the level wind shaft on the non-drive side, there is a small thin washer under this

Grab the levelwind cog on the driveside and slide the levelwind worm gear out, the casing will slide out the other way and the guide comes off.


Back to the crank shaft the re-engaging cog will now slide off

We'll use a dob of grease to block off the holes in the bottom of the drive side frame, the less areas for water ingress the better, if the reel gets that much water in it that it needs to drain then it's gonna get cleaned out ASAP.


There are 2 more bearings in this reel which require treatment with corrosion X\, one is hidden under here

and the other is here

This is as far as we'll dimantle it today, we'll lightly coat the inner surfaces of the frame and drive side plate then commence reassembly satrting with the re-engaging cog. Make sure it's on the right way otherwise your reel wont kick back into gear after a cast :-[

Lightly grease all levelwing peices
Holding the levelwind guide in position slide the levewind casing back in the non-drive side ensuring it seats correctly.

Slide the worm drive and cog in from the driveside then replace the small washer and E clip.

Push the level wind guide to one end and using the pointys again replace the pawl turning it until it seats then replacing and tightening the base cap.


Grease the slides and pinion and place it back on.


Grease and place the the plastic cog back on the crankshaft, you will notice 3 small lugs on it, these need to be facing up as they need to fit into the base of the main gear. Grease the underside and teeth of the main gear and slip it on turning until the lugs locate in the holes.


Place the drag washers back into he main gear as follows;
; Eared metal washer
; Thin fibre washer
; Keyed metal washer
; Thin fibre washer
; Eared metal washer
; Broad fibre washer
; and keyed metal washer (smaller but thicker)

The roller bearing sleeve can go back on the crankshaft now with the keyed end uppermost and place the engage return springs back on the slides.

I like to place a bead of grease around the side plate seat just to add a little more waterproofing, place side plate on.

Wipe off any excess, grease and screw in the 2 side plate screws.

place the spool tensioning pin back in and grease and screw on the spool tensioning knob.

place the Belleville washers back onto the crank shaft in the () configuration, grease the crankshaft thread and wind on the drag star and replace the drag star cover

Put the handle, handle nut and handle nut cover back on.


Slide the spool back in turning to locate the drive pin into the pinion.

Grease the threads for the non-drive side plate and screw the side plate back on, clean off the excess grease and we're good to go.
All ready for a days casting and trolling.

Cheers, Daisy


Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D

wallacewt

you made that look real easy,if i had one of those reels i reckon i could do it.gd stuff daisy

alantani

i just went through another pluton the other night.  for these reels, i like to pull the bearings and remove the shields.  that means the crosspin has to come out.   there is also a bearing at the center of the right side plate that holds the pinion gear.  i pull that one and grease it.  if you have trouble finding carbon fiber drag washers, let us know and we can see what we can find here.  shipping for drag washers only can go in a plain letter envelope for $1. thanks a million for this.  alan
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

kamuwela

thank you for the good work. this is what makes this site so great

Roger

Very nice and great pic's........
Roger

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain

Daisy

Thanks Alan, checked it out and found two other bearings (added them in), they're all so very small and hard to remove the shields without damaging the bearing. Thanks for the offer of help for the drag washers. Pluton's a tank of a reel, love mine.

Cheers, Daisy
Aw c'mon sweetie? I only need one more reel :-D

macka17

Quote from: Daisy on February 17, 2011, 07:34:34 AM
Thanks Alan, checked it out and found two other bearings (added them in), they're all so very small and hard to remove the shields without damaging the bearing. Thanks for the offer of help for the drag washers. Pluton's a tank of a reel, love mine.

Cheers, Daisy

Daisy.
Regarding those SW. It's my favourite Barra reel too. 30lb braid. sitting on a Live Fibre 6lb Barra stick.
Along with a Black Sheep 250 50lb braid. on a T Curve Tournament stick. We fish Awoonga. Prossie.
Tinaroo.
They both smooth as silk. great drags. and pull up those mama Barra real quick in Awoonga.
Only been spooled once on the SW. and that was with a Big Spanno outside.
Bzzzz. Snap. around the 70lb mark.
took it all of 5 seconds to spool me. Don't use ém outside..

redsetta

#7
Great work Daisy - missed this the first time round.
Cheers, Justin
PS Good call macka, a Spanish mackerel of that kinda size would make short work of most baitcasters. ;) ;D
Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer

jackor

which reel did your replacement pinion/drive gears come from?    I'm assuming your gears are replacements since mine is definitely stock and the gears are black annodized aluminum, not phosphor bronze like yours.   I read somewhere that the cv-z parts fit but i'm not sure so  I havne't ordered anything yet.

thanks.

Marko

i found this reel have problems with kick lever.. my opinion that this reel has flaw in design, unperfect positioning of the spring- not like the make in the low profile baitcaster reel say Zillion.

after some casting, after we cast with free spool, the kick lever seems dont get into position with the sun shaped gear. it's silly but serious flaw. hopefully nobody else has the same issue. >:(

LTM

Quote from: Marko on April 02, 2014, 03:45:27 PM
i found this reel have problems with kick lever.. my opinion that this reel has flaw in design, unperfect positioning of the spring- not like the make in the low profile baitcaster reel say Zillion.

after some casting, after we cast with free spool, the kick lever seems dont get into position with the sun shaped gear. it's silly but serious flaw. hopefully nobody else has the same issue. >:(
Yes, thought my reel was broken and set it aside until I got to this forum and askedd questions about the problem. No real answer to solve it, so I used ample grease and it seems to work. Need to really test it by fishing it hard, just havent had the chance.

Leo

Marko

finally after some brainstorming with the daiwa millionare :

just using powerglue and chipping shimano saragosa 18K F solid carbon washer  and voila... the problem solved.

where to add a small carbon I marked with red circle.. its not on kick lever but on the clutch cam

hope this helps all the millionare owners

LTM

Quote from: Marko on June 19, 2014, 05:19:39 PM
finally after some brainstorming with the daiwa millionare :

just using powerglue and chipping shimano saragosa 18K F solid carbon washer  and voila... the problem solved.

where to add a small carbon I marked with red circle.. its not on kick lever but on the clutch cam

hope this helps all the millionare owners
Marko,
What type of gulue is powerglue? What is "chipping"?  Did you add the carbon washer to the under yoke post or where?

Ron Jones

Marco superglued a piece of carbon fiber drag material to the cam side of the clutch. I believe this fills a small gap that can bind occasionally. It happens with my 300CVX sometimes.
Ronald
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

Marko

Quote from: noyb72 on June 28, 2014, 06:38:22 AM
Marco superglued a piece of carbon fiber drag material to the cam side of the clutch. I believe this fills a small gap that can bind occasionally. It happens with my 300CVX sometimes.
Ronald

yup that's what i meant.. my bad english.. :P