140, 140L, 140-LH, 140L-LH Squidder

Started by sdlehr, April 07, 2016, 02:56:55 AM

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sdlehr

Post questions about this reel in this thread
Sid Lehr
Veterinarian, fishing enthusiast, custom rod builder, reel collector

Penn Chronology

Probably, one of the most common questions asked about vintage Squidder 140's is how their Auto-reverse dogs are sprung. I would think most people willing to open and repair their own reels are familiar with the little coil spring mounted into the short dog and sitting against the molded in piece of Bakelite in the Squidder 140 head plate. That is not the case with early, especially pre-war Squidders. Exactly when the change over to the coil spring happened I do not know yet. Maybe someone here can post that piece of info. Here is how pre-war Squiderr's are made (no comments necessary on the muddy plate, it is now clean)


Notice the dog itself is longer than a modern Squidder dog.

Usually the question people have is how do they balance that little coil spring against the post provided by Penn in the head plate? The answer is, you do not.

FatTuna

Anyone have any information about this squidder 140? I've never seen one in this color before. I'm curious about it's age.

sdlehr

Quote from: FatTuna on April 20, 2016, 10:42:43 PM
Anyone have any information about this squidder 140? I've never seen one in this color before. I'm curious about it's age.
It's a red Squidder. I've got one. I think they're relatively common. I hope they're not :). Yours was likely a brighter red and may clean up to that Jigmaster red color with a little work. It's a post-1950 numbered reel. The Squidder existed virtually unchanged during it's long production run. Without any other catalog or box information I don't know if anyone can get any closer than that for you. I can't. They didn't change the design (except for offering different spools) the whole time the reel was in production except that first year Squidders are unique with their open foot stamped with yardage, other than that I think the model changed little if at all through the years. There were a lot of after-market variations available, but none apply to this reel of yours.
Sid Lehr
Veterinarian, fishing enthusiast, custom rod builder, reel collector

FatTuna

Thanks Sid. I was thinking the same thing about the color being faded. I'll see what some of that Eagle One Neverdull can do to brighten her up.

mccandrj

What is the small lever on my Squidder 140L for and when casting what position should it be on "Off or ON"?  Thanks RJ

Maxed Out

#6
Quote from: mccandrj on October 08, 2016, 08:51:45 PM
What is the small lever on my Squidder 140L for and when casting what position should it be on "Off or ON"?  Thanks RJ

That small lever disengages the anti reverse dog to turn the reel into direct drive, also know as knuckle buster, cause handle will turn as it lets out line, or as a fish takes line.

You definitely do not want the handle spinning while casting.

 Ted
We Must Never Forget Our Veterans....God Bless Them All !!

mccandrj


Penn Chronology

QuoteSo, the setting would be OFF?

No, the setting should be on.

mccandrj


sdlehr

When you disengage the freespool lever the spool spins independently from the pinion (only the spool and bearings will be in motion)  and will do so for casting regardless of the position of the smaller eccentric lever, which engages the antireverse mechanism (a dog that engages a ratchet when "on"), so in the "off" position it does not do so and the handle can be cranked in reverse to let line out. You want the antireverse engaged when you cast (I presume) so that you will have drag available immediately after the cast. With the A/R disengaged, as Ted said, you will have a knucklebuster, which got that name for a reason :).
Sid Lehr
Veterinarian, fishing enthusiast, custom rod builder, reel collector

Decker

Quote from: mccandrj on October 08, 2016, 08:51:45 PM
What is the small lever on my Squidder 140L for and when casting what position should it be on "Off or ON"?  Thanks RJ

Old post but... I like to use that setting on my Squidders when chunking bait from the beach.   If I am spiking the rod and walking away from it, I need to leave the reel in such a way that a big fish can't pull the whole rod into the surf.  After casting the bait clicker is turned on.   Sometimes it is sufficient to turn on free-spool with the clicker, but if the current or waves are too strong (they would easily take line), I turn free-spool off, and turn on "direct drive" With the direct drive on, there is more resistance against current than in free-spool, and a big fish can run a bit without pulling the rod into the surf.

RowdyW


oc1

If you're going to walk away it is safer to engage the dog, put it in gear and back off on the drag. 
-steve

Decker

Quote from: oc1 on October 12, 2016, 07:28:08 PM
If you're going to walk away it is safer to engage the dog, put it in gear and back off on the drag. 
-steve

I don't understand why setting the drag very loose would be better.  I'm thinking of big bluefish or stripers, not huge sharks (NJ not FL).  A few seconds after the fish starts peeling line off, I'm picking up the rod.  The drag is loose enough so that I could grab and stop the spinning handle.  I use conventionals most of the time for chunking but if I happen to be using a spinner, then, sure, the drag needs to be loosened.

Please educate me...  what else would you use that setting for?