Penn Senator 116L (12/0)

Bunnlevel Sharker · October 24, 2013, 07:23:49 PM

After you finish inserting it up about 5-6ft then you serve over the mono end and uses little super glue on the tip to stop fraying. I am going to replace it with 600yds of 130 jb to 130 mono when I respool. In nc it's not as much about abrasion as it is capacity for the most part

Tightlines667 · December 19, 2013, 07:19:48 AM

Shark Hunter,

Check out the thread on mono to holow core connections.

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8645.0

There are some good, relatively simple knots, but I prefer the splice w/ needle kit and glue. There are some good instructional videos on the net too. It looks harder then it actually is.

erikpowell · March 01, 2014, 08:23:27 PM

I was rooting around in a box of crusty old reject parts & frames ... I had a vague recollection there was an old big senator in that box and stumbled across really nice condition 10/0 side plates, posts, stand, and some salvageable parts. 2 perfect trim rings, 2 missing...i have the eccentric jack.. and the pinion gear is rusted to the spool shaft, but no sign of the steel main gear and bridge.. it was probably a rust ball

Ok guys... stupid question time... I should know this but....

If a 115L is 9/0 ..... and a 116L is a 12/0 ....... where does the 10/0 fit in, a 115.5L

Chris Gatorfan · March 01, 2014, 08:42:59 PM

the 10/0 is labled 116A

Shark Hunter · March 01, 2014, 11:18:43 PM

Quote from: erikpowell on March 01, 2014, 08:23:27 PM
I was rooting around in a box of crusty old reject parts & frames ... I had a vague recollection there was an old big senator in that box and stumbled across really nice condition 10/0 side plates, posts, stand, and some salvageable parts. 2 perfect trim rings, 2 missing...i have the eccentric jack.. and the pinion gear is rusted to the spool shaft, but no sign of the steel main gear and bridge.. it was probably a rust ball

Ok guys... stupid question time... I should know this but....

If a 115L is 9/0 ..... and a 116L is a 12/0 ....... where does the 10/0 fit in, a 115.5L

10/0 parts are hard to come by Erik. That stand you have is one of the most important pieces of the puzzle. It Basically just a narrow 12/0. Everything will interchange, except for the spool, posts and stand.

ASibs · July 12, 2014, 12:29:03 AM

Hello Everyone!

I've been reading this forum recently as I've gotten more into Penn reel repair. It's a lot of fun, and this forum has been really helpful.

Currently I am helping a friend fix up a Senator 12/0. The person he got it from had done "maintenance" on it, and the crank wouldn't turn the spool.

I took the reel apart and did a full service job on it. Here is the part I'm confused about:

- I took off the handle and star. There was no spacing sleeve (part 9 on schematic). After the tension washer, there was only one metal keyed washer instead of two (schematic shows two). Then the normal stack sequence started, though some had been put in out of order.

- After that I took the main gear and underlying fiber washer off the gear sleeve. Under the fiber washer there was a ring that looks a lot like the spacing sleeve (part 9) in the schematic. It fit perfectly around the gear sleeve and is brass colored.

- Now that the rest of the maintenance has been done, I've added an extra keyed washer to the top of the drag stack (top of stack is now perfectly flush with rim of main gear) and tried using that ring I took off the gear sleeve as the spacing sleeve. Now the star just barely screws on to the gear sleeve, and when I max the drag there is a space between the star and the side plate.

Does anyone have a picture of the gear sleeve for this model reel? Or pictures of the parts on top of the drag stack? Suggestions?

Thanks you! Glad to be a new member to the community

- Adam

Tightlines667 · July 12, 2014, 01:10:10 AM

This sounds familiar.

Take a look at this more complete schematic from Scott's

https://www.mysticparts.com/Assetse/images/pennparts/schematics/116l.pdf

You'll notice there have basically been 3 different stock drag stack configs over the years, and depending on the version and space available in the gear and within the side plate you may have to add a keyed washer or 2 to the top of the upgraded 7 stack to make up the space. Try removing the collar, keep the 2 keyed washers on top of stack and check the star travel and drag performance. Basically you want near 0 drag tension with the star backed all the way off (and no binding of the stack w/the side plate), and have it to just start to develop tension when you begin tightening it. This will give you max drag range before bottoming out. If that doesn't work you can try removing one keyed and add the collar, or one keyed and replace with a thicker old style metal washer (if available). Sometimes when a drag stack is upgraded only the Asbestos drag washers have been replaced with the new thinner Carbon Fiber discs, and the older/thicker metal drag washers were retained, sometimes all were changed. This leads to changes in the overall stack height, which can require a little adjusting to obtain the full drag range and performance. Typically I replace all metal and CF drag washers when upgrading, add a keyed washer (or 2 to the top), and remove the collar when upgrading the drag stacks on 12/0 and 14/0s. Make sure the under gear washer is in good condition as well.
Alan prefers a CF here, I've been using stock, SharkHunter and others are starting to use Delron washers here.

Hope this helps?

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Shark Hunter · July 12, 2014, 02:16:46 AM

Take a look around the senator section Adam. There are lots of pictures you can use as a reference.

alantani · July 12, 2014, 05:21:32 AM

adam, welcome!!!!!

ASibs · July 13, 2014, 07:44:11 AM

Thanks for the wisdom gentlemen. The best configuration so far is taking out the extra drag washer and leaving the sleeve in. I can't get to the bottom range of the drag, but it gets the strong end just fine. I think the best config will be two extra drag washers and no sleeve.

Going to take her fishing tomorrow. Flag lining on the Big Island of Hawai'i. Chehoo!

Alto Mare · July 13, 2014, 09:37:20 AM

I had a couple of pics yesterday but placed them on another 12/0 thread,

so I removed it.
This is the most common today:

I've never experienced any problems using the spacer, but it would be better without it, just make sure the belleville is on top.
If you're going without the spacer, the two metal washers need to be above the main gear lip or the star will bottom out.
You could get there by experimenting with different thickness Carbon Fiber washers, the ones from Scott are 1.20mm, replacing a couple of those with a little thicker ones should do it. If you had to go there, adding a carbon washer on top of another wouldn't create any problem, just a thought $:-\$ .
Notice on the pic above, my additional metal washer's ID is round, you'll get away with a keyed washer there, but that's how I like to have it, all I do is grind the ears off one of the washers.

PERRO · October 26, 2014, 09:08:27 PM

Hey Guys..Newby here & just sharing my " Trial & Errors "

I read this great thread & decided to pull out my one and only " 12/0 " Penn Reel from my storage unit. I picked it up about 15 years ago & have never personally used ( Motion Sickness Issues ), although I have loaned it out a few times to friends.

Heres a photo , after re-lubing & re-assembling.

I stripped it down & to remove the old dried grease & re-relubricate the gears, etc. I had hoped to pull the bearings & re-grease & re-pack them with " Yamalube ", using my news tools. However, they were more difficult than I had anticipated.

So, the " Bearings & Caps " were cleaned with WD-40 & Brake cleaner, then soaked in 321. I added a dabb of Yamalube grease on top, before re-assambling.

I was able put it all back together, & started tightening everything down,.. when one of the Reel seat bolts broke ..

I did encounter one major headache & almost posted a question, i.e: " When I initially disassembled the reel & removed the Bridge Plate. A small " L " shaped piece of metal fell out, near the "Dog ". I initially thought no big deal.. I'll check the schematic.. Well, I checked, but it didn't really help me on how to " CORRECTLY " replace it , without something falling out

Fortunately,.. I was able to locate one of Alan's " Tutorial "

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=208.0

Took me another " 2 hrs " fiddling & jiggling with everything, for everything to fall into place, instead of falling apart !!

Thanks everyone, ..for all of the " Great Info " !!

handi2 · October 26, 2014, 09:38:12 PM

Great looking reel..!! Be careful when tightening the screws. The may look SS but as you found out they are Brass.

Shark Hunter · October 27, 2014, 12:08:30 AM

The 12/0 is my favorite Penn reel. This Monster can bring in the biggest of fishes. You need any help, just ask, There are a few of us that know our way around one of these beasts!

PERRO · October 27, 2014, 12:18:48 AM

Again , thanks guys!!

I don't know when ( ? ) I'll ever use it for Saltwater Fishing.. ?

My friends have teased me ( Motion Sickeness ), and have made offers to buy it ( Rod & Reel Combo ), since I don't do any " Saltwater Fishing ".

I've told them " Nope.. not for sale ! It's my " Heavy Gear " for " Alligator Gar / Paddle Fish / Sturgeon / Blue & Flathead Catfishing "