Manufacturer-Specific Lubricants

whalebreath · June 17, 2016, 03:49:39 AM

Quote from: 0119 on June 15, 2016, 10:54:48 AM
When shimano acknowledged that their proprietary oil was nothing more than mineral oil, I have avoided lubes from every reel manufacturer.

LOL!

I found a couple of those little bottles earlier in the week and was wondering why I never put them to use-Thanks to you I now remember.

thorhammer · June 17, 2016, 08:30:17 AM

When we were at Penn, we toured the filling and assembly area where the Penn blue is packaged. Our man Tony described the testing and development of the Penn grease we were seeing in drums; it underwent extensive corrosion resistance testing vs. other formulas to arrive at what they use now. I use Cal's on drags of my upper end stuff, Penn on drags of everything else, marine grease on metal, and Rocket Fuel, Hot Sauce or Super Slick Stuff in bearings. wipe down when complete with Penn reel cleaner, and for aluminum reels a wipe with Corrosion block.

Rickb · June 17, 2016, 10:16:36 AM

For me sometimes it's different products on similar reels for example bait casters that are used frequently
Like abu's that are very well worn compared to just broke in ,and others bought new this year
To get them to feel and act the same sometimes different things work.

I have read that nano diamond particles in grease when tested makes the grease last up to twice as long
And is said to reduce friction because they imbed into moving parts and act like Mini bearings
the oil with it has been used in race car engines I read that it helps at first

exp2000 · June 17, 2016, 04:05:32 PM

Quote from: thorhammer on June 17, 2016, 08:30:17 AM
When we were at Penn, we toured the filling and assembly area where the Penn blue is packaged. Our man Tony described the testing and development of the Penn grease we were seeing in drums; it underwent extensive corrosion resistance testing vs. other formulas to arrive at what they use now.

I understand your incredulity - I was considering using it myself at one time till I saw the results in reels that came in. I have seen many examples now - enough to be confident in what I say. Worst thing I have seen is a stainless spindle locked solid inside a brass pinion and these metals are very corrosion resistant. It is the graphite - it cakes solid when exposed to saltwater and sets like cement. You can see examples on my Facebook page.

I have only ever seen this effect with one other grease. It also had graphite in it.
~

mo65 · June 17, 2016, 05:27:51 PM

Quote from: exp2000 on June 17, 2016, 02:41:35 AM

Do not use the new Penn blue grease. When saltwater hits it, it literally turns into cement powder and binds parts rock solid together.
Experience leads me to believe that it is the graphite component that is responsible for this so stay away from any lubrication product with a graphite component. However, I cannot testify as to it's performance in freshwater use.

I'm a freshwater guy, and I've not experienced any problems with Penn blue, on gears OR drags. I do appreciate the info on these lubes' performance...the manufacturers never tell their products' drawbacks...only it's advantages. The knowledge shared on this site saves a guy like me a whole lotta headaches!

Tightlines667 · June 17, 2016, 05:56:34 PM

Penn Blue is my go-to grease for servicing large offshore reels. I have had a number of reels that have serviced come back through my shop after heavy use (confirmed through parts wear between service intervals, and I have never observed thisv'cementing' issue you mention. I have noticed it drying up where it was applied thinly (like on the inside of sideplates though. It also changes color where water intrusion occured.

I would be intetested in seeing photos of the issue you mention.

exp2000 · June 19, 2016, 01:44:43 PM

Quote from: Tightlines666 on June 17, 2016, 05:56:34 PM
Penn Blue is my go-to grease for servicing large offshore reels. I have had a number of reels that have serviced come back through my shop after heavy use (confirmed through parts wear between service intervals, and I have never observed thisv'cementing' issue you mention. I have noticed it drying up where it was applied thinly (like on the inside of sideplates though. It also changes color where water intrusion occured.

I would be intetested in seeing photos of the issue you mention.

There is a link to my Facebook page underneath my avatar. There you will find pictures and discussion.

exp2000 · September 30, 2016, 09:46:13 AM

I do not get that many Penn reels these days but I attempted to capture some good photographs of this Liveliner lubricated with the standard factory grease.

The affected grease was untypically focused around the oscillating carriage in this reel. Perhaps because of seepage via the baitrunner lever.

It had become "crystallized" and rocky lumps could be broken off.

Needless to say what this did for the performance of the reel.
~

Tiddlerbasher · September 30, 2016, 02:52:00 PM

Yikes

Rancanfish · September 30, 2016, 03:19:10 PM

Wow.

Oh, I got excited before I went back and reread that. I saw the blue and assumed it was Yamaha grease.

No worries for me. I'm a disciple of Alan's from way back. (Geez Alan, 25+ years?) So what the Doc told me when I went to the first Fisherman's Warehouse seminar back in the 1800's still applies. The only change has been the lube for the bearings.

Yamaha, Cal's, TS321 and done. I did use Shimano drag grease for a long time just because I had a bunch.

Gfish · September 30, 2016, 03:32:58 PM

Exp2000, the Liveliner in your excellent photos, its got a seal for the gearbox. Where do you think the saltwater gets in? I've heard other similar things about graphite n' saltwater.
Gfish

exp2000 · September 30, 2016, 04:00:05 PM

Quote from: Gfish on September 30, 2016, 03:32:58 PM
Exp2000, the Liveliner in your excellent photos, its got a seal for the gearbox. Where do you think the saltwater gets in? I've heard other similar things about graphite n' saltwater.
Gfish

Yep, graphite has always been my number one suspect in this crime.

Despite the sealed crankcase, water can still enter via the pinion or past the baitrunner switch shaft.

The irony is, once water does get past these, the gasket makes sure it stays inside.

What a PIA this is. I get some crappy stuff in here sometimes, but I am so over scrubbing concrete.

I am really considering hand-balling these back to the distribution agents. It's just too much time and too much work.

Petrified grease ! Yikes indeed !

~

alantani · September 30, 2016, 06:11:50 PM

ok, here's a good one for you. joey found this in a new avet. it's sticky as hell. yes, i think they are now using the dreaded light blue trailer bearing grease. you know the stuff. it's horrible to work with, really sticky and stringy. i hate this grease more than any other. the sad part is that i think it will actually work. $:-\$

George6308 · September 30, 2016, 07:10:23 PM

Penn over the years has sold two versions of blue grease. They changed from the original blue grease to a tan colored grease sold as Muscle Grease. It is still available from the Muscle Lubricate Co. It works very well on Penn gears. The newer blue grease was first marketed as XR7. Penn bought the rights and now sells it as Penn branded lubes. The oil is thinner buts holds up well.
Another oil I use is Breakfree CLP, it contains Teflon and works very well where oil is called for.
Most of this issue have been hashed out many times on the Stripers On Line site.

newport · October 01, 2016, 03:48:33 AM

Hey alan, is the tackiness a problem for lubing gears, or is it just more difficult to handle and clean that is the problem? I remember others mentioning tacky grease on here (but can't exactly remember where), but never got any further explanation other than that they aren't particularly fond of it.

Also, in regards to penn's blue grease, I like how well it handles, but don't really like to use it, because it turns really black and grimy pretty quick. It makes me question if it's really marine grease.