alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Real World 309 Upgrades
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 13, 2017, 10:21:37 PM *
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Author Topic: Real World 309 Upgrades  (Read 3099 times)
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Keta
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« Reply #15 on: October 12, 2017, 05:55:39 AM »

There is not many main/pinion gear combinations that are compatible.

The Pearless 9, 109, 209 and 309 reels were the main Penn reels I saw and worked on for many years with a few Senators and Mariners.  I never liked the 309 as it was to big for salmon and not quite enough for mid to large Pacific halibut.  I never saw a place for one for my needs and used Penn 10 and 210 for salmon and 349H for halibut.
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« Reply #16 on: October 19, 2017, 07:08:07 AM »

Gents

Great Thread.  As I just acquired 2 309's in good shape for free, i am thinking of beefing at least one up.

To continue with this Thread...

On the Frame stiffness issue, can't a Reel Seat, reshaped by grinding out the Seat Tabs, be used to support the Side Plates?

i am thinking replacing the Rear Bar for the bottom Screw and drilling a new top hole for the top Seat Screw. 

Seems reshaping a Reel Seat and then powder coating it would be relatively easy and cheap.

Thoughts?
Steve
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« Reply #17 on: October 19, 2017, 07:12:48 AM »

Gents

Great Thread.  As I just acquired 2 309's in good shape for free, i am thinking of beefing at least one up.

To continue with this Thread...

On the Frame stiffness issue, can't a Reel Seat, reshaped by grinding out the Seat Tabs, be used to support the Side Plates?

i am thinking replacing the Rear Bar for the bottom Screw and drilling a new top hole for the top Seat Screw. 

Seems reshaping a Reel Seat and then powder coating it would be relatively easy and cheap.

Thoughts?
Steve

Steve, interesting but hard to visualize...  Could you draw a rough picture?   I won't be the one to answer you, but I think it will clarify your intention.   /Joe
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« Reply #18 on: October 19, 2017, 08:18:11 AM »

Decker

A little difficult right now, but if you see a picture of a Reel Seat, grind off the Tabs where the Rod attaches.  Maybe even grind to lighten the whole Seat a bit.

Attach the Seat to the back of the Reel by using the Rear Bar Screws/Holes and 2 new Holes for the top of the Seat Screws.

I will try to edit a picture later

Steve
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« Reply #19 on: October 19, 2017, 12:06:46 PM »

How will attach to a rod if the tabs are ground off as you stated?
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« Reply #20 on: October 19, 2017, 12:28:16 PM »

I think he means an ADDITIONAL reel stand....used only as a "spacer bar"
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« Reply #21 on: October 20, 2017, 01:47:03 AM »

Crow

thanks for clearing it up.

my point/question is that discussions seem to indicate that the Frame of the 309 is a weak point.  Rather than go to the expense with a Newell, if it exists, why not just modify another Seat to crossbrace the Reel by grinding off the Tabs where the Rod mounts and maybe a little profiling to make it look nicer and not just a cobbled up Seat?

Looking from the Handle side, install it the ~9 o'clock position using the existing Bar Screw/Hole and a new one made appropriately higher up.  This should work for cheapskates like me. 

I might have an Reel in bad shape around here where i can steal the Seat.........

Thanks
Steve
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« Reply #22 on: October 20, 2017, 06:06:48 AM »

   If you can find an inexpensive/effective way to reduce frame flex on the 309 sundancer, lots of naysayers will have to find a new reel to chastise! Cool
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« Reply #23 on: October 20, 2017, 06:30:42 AM »

 Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy
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« Reply #24 on: October 20, 2017, 08:42:02 AM »

OK

whats up?Huh?

if you look at the schematics for the 66 and the 309, they list the 30-66 Stand for the part number.  The Picture though are of 2 different Parts.

the 309 has holes for a Rod Clamp and the 66 'lighter duty' type, like on the 285, etc.

Huh???
Steve
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« Reply #25 on: October 20, 2017, 03:20:37 PM »

   
if you look at the schematics for the 66 and the 309, they list the 30-66 Stand for the part number.  The Picture though are of 2 different Parts

   If you're referring to the schematics at Scott's, yes, the stand pictured in the LB66 schematic is wrong. They're showing a #30-65 stand, but list it correctly as the #30-66.
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