alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 113 and jigmaster 10 tooth sleeve
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
April 22, 2018, 01:59:04 PM *
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Author Topic: 113 and jigmaster 10 tooth sleeve  (Read 4831 times)
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handi2
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« Reply #15 on: September 30, 2016, 03:49:15 PM »

I really appreciate what Alan Chui has brought to us in such a short amount of time. Just think what we didn't have just 3 years ago.

I purchase the 10 tooth sleeves 10 at a time so I know how well they work. It was only in this one situation where I wasn't totally comfortable using one on the double dog bridge.

Keith
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« Reply #16 on: September 30, 2016, 09:45:37 PM »

While all the answers are nice, I think everyone is missing the point. I haven't installed any of my double dog bridges for this reason. I'm not worrying about the slack in the 10 tooth gear sleeve because of handle slop, I'm worrying about it because when the sleeve is pulled out (away from the bridge), only about 1/3 of the dog contacts the ratchet. That's how much play there is. I was contemplating putting some c clips on the gear sleeve stud to space the sleeve down toward the bridge. Shimming the sleeve out away from the bridge only makes the dog contact worse. Alan's new sleeve looks like it may cure the problem.
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« Reply #17 on: April 16, 2018, 07:14:13 AM »

Looking to upgrade a 501 with full SS guts.
Was the original pinion not ss, or for best results, just buy the kit for main/pinion to mesh without issue?
I installed an A.Tani 8 tooth sleeve 3-4-5 years ago.  Huh?  For better results or if I'm understanding correctly, the 10 tooth will have both
dogs engaged @ the same time where the 8 tooth holds one at a time or alternately?
My plans are to keep the 501 4-1 and a 506 5-1
Sorry for the necro post. I'm taking the leap into DD world and just want to get it right the first time.

Thanks
-gary
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« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2018, 11:57:45 AM »

The prochallenger jm500x kit about covers everything you need all in one package. You could also use what you have and add ss parts as needed. The kit makes life easy though
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« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2018, 12:51:26 PM »

  For better results or if I'm understanding correctly, the 10 tooth will have both
dogs engaged @ the same time where the 8 tooth holds one at a time or alternately?

   Correct...the 10 tooth is simultaneous dogs while the 8 tooth is alternating. Simultaneous dogs increase anti-reverse strength while alternating dogs decrease backplay. I'm holding out for a gear sleeve that will do both...Cheesy
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handi2
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« Reply #20 on: April 16, 2018, 02:24:17 PM »

  For better results or if I'm understanding correctly, the 10 tooth will have both
dogs engaged @ the same time where the 8 tooth holds one at a time or alternately?

   Correct...the 10 tooth is simultaneous dogs while the 8 tooth is alternating. Simultaneous dogs increase anti-reverse strength while alternating dogs decrease backplay. I'm holding out for a gear sleeve that will do both...Cheesy

That sounds like a great plan.

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« Reply #21 on: April 16, 2018, 03:27:11 PM »

I figured while I'm waiting for the 113h stuff to come back in, I'd start on a 501 tank.
The stock 4-1 pinion, is ss correct? I just want to be sure that it's going to work with a new SS main gear in one of the packages.
I want to keep the 501 at the stock 4-1 configuration.
The plan (right now) it's going to be used for bay trolling, and the 5-1 506 for live bait and casting.

-gary
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« Reply #22 on: April 17, 2018, 07:55:51 AM »

While all the answers are nice, I think everyone is missing the point. I haven't installed any of my double dog bridges for this reason. I'm not worrying about the slack in the 10 tooth gear sleeve because of handle slop, I'm worrying about it because when the sleeve is pulled out (away from the bridge), only about 1/3 of the dog contacts the ratchet. That's how much play there is. I was contemplating putting some c clips on the gear sleeve stud to space the sleeve down toward the bridge. Shimming the sleeve out away from the bridge only makes the dog contact worse. Alan's new sleeve looks like it may cure the problem.

That’s exactly why i didnt use the 10 tooth gear sleeve with the double dog bridge. I didnt trust it at all. Only one half of the dogs would be contacting the ratchet on the sleeve. I have broken one of the dogs off the bridge and Alan replaced it.
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« Reply #23 on: April 17, 2018, 09:57:09 AM »

While all the answers are nice, I think everyone is missing the point. I haven't installed any of my double dog bridges for this reason. I'm not worrying about the slack in the 10 tooth gear sleeve because of handle slop, I'm worrying about it because when the sleeve is pulled out (away from the bridge), only about 1/3 of the dog contacts the ratchet. That's how much play there is. I was contemplating putting some c clips on the gear sleeve stud to space the sleeve down toward the bridge. Shimming the sleeve out away from the bridge only makes the dog contact worse. Alan's new sleeve looks like it may cure the problem.

That’s exactly why i didnt use the 10 tooth gear sleeve with the double dog bridge. I didnt trust it at all. Only one half of the dogs would be contacting the ratchet on the sleeve. I have broken one of the dogs off the bridge and Alan replaced it.

So far, you are the only one had that failure. After replacing the 113H sleeve with 2 pinholes, no one has been reported any problem on that 10 tooth sleeve with 113H DD bridge. By the way, these items are in the Tank, and the Tank has been fished in Alaska for awhile, and no issue at all. On the other hand, the bridge you had that could be one of the defected. If anyone still have any issue with the 10 tooth sleeve or the bridge, please return it to where you get it from, and I will be glad to purchase it back from the retailer where one is purchased from. I don't like anybody to keep any of my custom parts if he is not happy with it. That is how I like my business to be run.

In addition, there is none issue reported by any user on Jigmaster DD bridge with 10 tooth sleeve.
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