Penn Intnl 50s problem

[steelfish]

I havent amigo Josa,

I've been pretty busy, then got a really bad flu for many days, then the same owner of the reel gave me a rod to fix and told me to fix the rod first.

I will keep you all informed on my findings once I took that reel again on the fixing table

[coastal_dan]

Bump!  Any luck with the stud / plunger removal?

I have a similar issue with my 50 SW...gear stud doesn't want to drop once I apply pressure to the plunger.  I've tried tapping it with a rubber mallet while depressing the plunger and no go.  I'm guessing it is quite worn...

[Tightlines667]

Bump!  Any luck with the stud / plunger removal?

I have a similar issue with my 50 SW...gear stud doesn't want to drop once I apply pressure to the plunger.  I've tried tapping it with a rubber mallet while depressing the plunger and no go.  I'm guessing it is quite worn...

This may be due to your pins getting stuck.  You have to get the pins to seat inside of the gear stud to remove it.  Then you need to remove them before you can remove the stud.  If you are able to get the stud out first, you may be able to use a pic to push the pins through the stud.   There is more then 1 way to skin the cat here.  A rubber mallet, and vise may help.

John

[coastal_dan]

Not to hijack but this seems like a good place to add in my findings as well...

I left the plunger depressed with a hand vise and screw overnight with WD-40 soaked in there...after dealing with this for a few nights I was finally just going to drill out the stud and buy another.  So, I released the vise and flipped it over to drill and what do you know! It fell right out...as you can see the pins had some serious dirt/crud/gunk build up and didn't want to move at all.  So, lots of cleaning later and good to go!  I am going to replace the pins and spring to be on the safe side.







 Moving On!

[Tightlines667]

Nice work Dan!

I know I have been in the same pickle before.  These pins don't seem to be as badly mared as I was expecting.  Both the sleeve, and pins are extremely hard.  These and the cam, cam pins, and spool shaft/pinion gears are the 7 hardest parts in the Internationals, followed by the main gears.  The pins ocassionally need replacing, most other parts do not.  The gears seem to have plenty of meat left on them and should crank smoothly after a good cleanup.

A few more tips for you...
When reassembling use a light coating of marine grease followed by some corrosion X.. same goes for the clicker pawl and spring.  Don't be afraid to use some blue loctite on the gear retainer screws, and the clicker pawl nut.  Might as well order a clicker screw cover while you are ordering parts too.  Get yourself one of Alan's bearing packers and pack the non spool bearings with grease.  Put the older bearing in the left spool position as these wear less quickly then the other 3.  Depending on how much you have into the reel, you may want to consider a handle upgrade as well.  The oversized rubber handles are nice.

Can't wait to see the finished product on your first International.

Now tell Daron they are easier to work on then you think

John  

[steelfish]

Not to hijack but this seems like a good place to add in my findings as well...

No problem Dan

I have been pretty busy with normal work, I'm a CPA and the 1st three months are like hell too many reports for the IRS
Anyway, havent touch that reel yet and the owner told me that he really don't need it so, fix it when time allows

Good to see your reel is good to go

[reel man]

Make sure the pins on the plunge are facing the right direction.  The pointy end faces in board, otherwise the plunger won't pop out properly.

[coastal_dan]

Make sure the pins on the plunge are facing the right direction.  The pointy end faces in board, otherwise the plunger won't pop out properly.

Reelman -  I believe it is opposite this...rounded end of the pin should be facing out so that it slides and engages freely into the sleeve.  With straight edges out it would not allow for a 'fluid' engagement into the notches of the sleeve.

I found this thread that discusses this problem...

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2489.0

Let me know if I misunderstood you.

Thanks.

[Tightlines667]

Make sure the pins on the plunge are facing the right direction.  The pointy end faces in board, otherwise the plunger won't pop out properly.

Reelman -  I believe it is opposite this...rounded end of the pin should be facing out so that it slides and engages freely into the sleeve.  With straight edges out it would not allow for a 'fluid' engagement into the notches of the sleeve.

I found this thread that discusses this problem...

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2489.0

Let me know if I misunderstood you.

Thanks.

Correct.

The rounded portion of the pins face outwards on the 2 speed mech. and on the cam assembly.

John

[steelfish]

Hi Steelfish,

It's important that you take pictures and post your findings.  At some point in time I'm sure it will help us all out.

Thanks,

josa

totally agree that all threads asking for help should have an update with the ending story

well after some months I made some time between rebuilding fishing rods and take the Internationall 50s II for a second round.

read 3 times what everybody recommended me and applied all those tips on the reel, it was a battle to dead against it, started at 9pm (my normal hour to start working on reels) and finished at 2am, it took so long cuz from time to time the reel gave it a little bit but I didnt wanted to leave it for the next day cuz between family, rods and kids-homework I didnt knew when "the next day" would have been, anyway, I continued to dismateling all parts I could from exterior and interior until just have the gear assembly stuck which was always the main problem, with the help of the rubber hammer and after many hits, oil and patience I could take the gear assembly "shaft" out from the sleeve.
same deal than with Dan's reel, it was full of dirt/crud/gunk build up and I cleaned the interior of the sleeve and put againg the gear shaft inside but it was really a tight fit with lot of force to do it, so I made a "tube" with sand paper of 600grit and sanded the interior of the sleeve, later used a 1200grit to polishing a bit, did the same with the shaft of the gear assembly, sanding it with 600 and after with a 1200 grit and lots of water it ended up almost like mirror, put it inside the sleeve agains and night and day, now it spins freely inside the sleeve, added a drop of 321 oil and felt like a champ, good work Alex, watch marked 2am so, I put all the bits inside of small plastic bags separately for section, put reel frame and bits on big bag and went to sleep.
tomorrow or on the weeken I will clean the whole reel and lube it, it should work as new.

but.. please check the pic where Im showing a mark from the pins, really sure is where it got stuck and leaved those marks when using the rubber hammer at the end I took it out but no without leaving from marks inside the sleeve.
Do you think this would affect the reel with shifting from low to high?
checked on scotts and that part is $50 bucks, but dont know if its recommended to buy it and throw the stock one.

[Tightlines667]

If it was me, I would replace the bridge since the are available and relatively inexpensive.  You may get a bump when reeling and it is posdoble that it hangs up a bit if you don't pish the button all the way until it completes the gear shift.  You could dremel it a bit and test. 

John

[steelfish]

If it was me, I would replace the bridge since the are available and relatively inexpensive.  You may get a bump when reeling and it is posdoble that it hangs up a bit if you don't pish the button all the way until it completes the gear shift.  You could dremel it a bit and test. 
John

if it was my reel I would get the bridge but belongs to a panguero guide that is always on a budget so, I think I will try the dremeling first, I think what I need to do is to smooth the bump, right? smooth it on the sides of the bump

are you agree or what do you think I should do to that nick inside the bridge?

[Tightlines667]

Yes smooth the edges, and also the top portions.  When inward pressure is applied to the handle while cranking in high speed, you may feel a noticable bump every 180 deg.  If there is space, shimming on top of the gear sleeve may help to tighten it up.. oh wait that would only work for damage to the low gear grove, and shimming the inside would make it worse.  I would assemble and test before modifying it.  It may produce unacceptable performance.  I yave had to replace a few of these due to marring.  In the larger reels it is just a bushing.  

You may not be aware, that the smaller reel bridge, which is cheaper, fits the larger reel (shh.. don't tell Maurine).  I think the 30 fits the 50 (though this may only be in the older reel styles).  I always had tye old bridge in hand, and compared it to available parts in hand before purchasing locally.  MysticParts indicates they are not compatible though.  So, I might be mistaken on which 2 smaller International models this applies to.

I can't remember now for sure?

I think this one might eork on your reel through...
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/3-30S.aspx

John

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[Tightlines667]

Here is a photo I just took of the 50 (single speed), and 30S (2-speed) bridge assemblies.  The diameter and hole patrerns are identical, but the prices certainly are not!  I am 95% sure the 30S bridge works on the 2-speed 50 reels at 1/3 the cost.

John

[steelfish]

thanks JOhn for this info

is it the camera angle or its the 30s bridge thicker than the 50s?
pretty sure they should at least be the same but 30s looks thicker than 50s