is threadmaster one good for jobs when repairing 1 guide only

[steelfish]

well after few local guys have seen my rod repairs, now I have a bunch of rods from friends and normal customers than need some guides repaired, some of the are just one-guide broken and the rest are good, some need two guides but thats it.

I know the minimum quantity of epoxic that you need to mix is 3cc but I hate to waste too much epoxic when repairing just one guide, specially when the repair is done 3 in times.
I normally install the underwrap, then CP, later one thin coat of epoxic, then next day install the guide and overwraps, then CP,  later make a light coat of finish to the overwrap, next day a apply the 2nd and final coat of epoxic to the overwrap, for the underwrap I think I just use an average of 1cc (maybe less) and maybe same amount for the overwrap 1 coat, on the 2nd coat im bit more generous on the epoxic but never use the 3cc when repairing one guide.
I dont care is the customer is paying for the epoxic I just hate to trow the unused part to the trash (maybe its just me but dont feel too good wasting good product)

so, for the guys that run a rod repair bussinnes how you do it this kind of small rapairs and dont waste too much epoxic?


I was thinking to try the one-part finish products as threadmaster one or Lumiseal for the light coat for the underwraps and 1coat on overwraps and only use 2-part epoxic for the final coat of the entire guide wrap, but not sure how it will react because using different products on the guide, threadmaster one is water based and lumiseal is urethane based, 2-part epoxic is whole different product.

PS: not that I think I will get tons of just one-guide repair jobs but it still bothers me for the next times I get this small rod jobs

[cbar45]

so, for the guys that run a rod repair bussinnes how you do it this kind of small rapairs and dont waste too much epoxic?

Minimum of 3cc's is a good general guideline, but don't be afraid to experiment with different finishes, methods, etc.

Some finishes are more forgiving of being mixed in small amounts, right down to .50 cc's of each.

Using CP only when necessary, or as requested, helps speed up repairs.

Look into building a drum dryer, very useful when you have mutiple rods and limited space.

[steelfish]

Some finishes are more forgiving of being mixed in small amounts, right down to .50 cc's of each.
Using CP only when necessary, or as requested, helps speed up repairs.
Look into building a drum dryer, very useful when you have mutiple rods and limited space.

well I think I will experiment with 2cc next time I have to repair one guide


so, no love for the 1-part epoxic currently on the market?

[oc1]

I've never put epoxy on a fishing rod, but for boat projects you use proportionally more hardener for a smaller batch.  The volume impacts the amount of heat retained and heat accelerates hardening.
-steve

[cbar45]

For me it all boils down to what you are trying to accomplish.

There are products that will certainly do for a quick re-wrap--so long the angler isn't too concerned about aesthetics and/or longevity: UV-Cured, Threadmaster One, Permagloss, Nail Polish, etc.

My goal in most cases however, is to furnish a rod that you could never tell has been repaired.

Guide wraps must be durable, done by means both efficient and to a degree foolproof.

To that end your standard two-part rod finish works best; newer one-part finishes--aside from the urethanes--have a ways yet to be developed..imho

P.S.
I've come across a few who prefer nothing more than a temporary varnish over their wraps. For these anglers the ease of re-wrapping and flexibility in changing guide trains is a big plus.

[Swami805]

You should be able to mix .5 cc of each as long as the ratio is 50-50 but there's less margin for error. If you have any extra you can use it to glue on grips or butt caps just nothing that requires a lot of strength. If you see yourself doing alot of small repair jobs get another dryer or 2, sounds like you're half way down the rabbit hole anyway. Don't know if you have a wrapping lathe but if you have one with a dryer you can use rubber bands from the rod in the dryer to one in the lathe for a 2nd dryer in a pinch. 3cc of each is almost enough to do an entire small rod. Sheridan

[exp2000]

I regularly mix smaller batches for single guide repair.

I just count the drops for two part epoxy finish, often using as little as 5:5.

Provided the proportions are correct, you should not experience any issues.
~

[steelfish]

My goal in most cases however, is to furnish a rod that you could never tell has been repaired.

thats my main goal too.

well, I try to keep the reel (now rod) repair side bussines small, the idea is to only do it on free time, with no hurries at all and not short-cuts, so I can offer the same kind of job I would do for my personal reels and rods.
Im pretty anal on this kind of jobs, so, I will keep using 2-part expoxic and reduce the amount of epoxic finish used.

thanks guys,

[thorhammer]

Hey Alex, you are no doubt, and we have seen, doing a fantastic job, but there's no way I'd spend 4 days putting on four-5 different coats especially on a small guide. I use two coats of Flexicoat Lite over the whole wrap and call it done. you could alternatively use a sealer like permagloss which will seal against air bubbles and then apply a single coat of Flex Lite; will probably get it done.

[steelfish]

thanks Jonh,
I actually havent spend 5 days to fix one guide, but I was asking since those are the steps on "the book" of rod building, but Im with you, too much hassle for one guide, even more when no special need for underwrap nowadays.

I have a bunch of broken freshwater rods that I got on a fleamarket few months ago, I bought them with the idea to experiment with my skills when thinking to fix my own rods and make some tests on them before doing anything on a good expensive rod, I actually could save some cheap rods from that buch, 1 flyfishing rod, 3 catfishing rods (glass), 3 UL for trouth and 2-3 of the $9 dlls rods from wallyworld, all of them only needed 1-2 guides and the tip, and some others were broken and non-usable but still good to test with them, by fixing all those rods I got the enough experience to jump to a more expensive ones.

I remember that I repaired those rods, following the next steps I saw somewhere else, as follow:
underwrap --> CP --> 2hrs later -- overwrap ---> FC lite, one generoues coat, then applied bit of heat with the torch and call it a day.
mostly dont needed the underwrap, so it was faster.

they ended up looking really good; now, on a more expensive and beautiful rod I might add a second light coat of FC next day, but only if thats needed to match the the rest of the guides finish, on factory rods they seem to have just one big coat of finish.

after checking the comments of the majority I think I will follow that same steps on my next small repairs.

[Bill B]

I recently used Perma Gloss U-40 to coat the wraps on my NepTuna Project.....took 4 coats to get to this finish and took two days, probably could have done it in 1 full day if it was warmer......sorry for the picture quality, but Im waiting for a sunny day to show the finer details that are not apparent in these indoor pictures......Bill

[steelfish]

that look really good compadre.

I have seen some works like yours before here and at rodbuilding.org from guys using permagloss and lumiseal, that why I was asking.

since I already have a lot of scrap rods I might go with I bottle of any of those products and put some coats on a guide after the CP and see how it looks, worst scenario is that I still need to apply a light coat of FC next day, still not sure if the 2nd coat of FC finish would bond with 1st coat of urethane products as permagloss and lumiseal.
I think its the same deal with CPxtra which is urethane based too, I was looking for an excuse to order a CPxtra to try it and this could be the opportunity, and would be used as clear coat finish when painted a rod of course.

[thorhammer]

that look really good compadre.

I have seen some works like yours before here and at rodbuilding.org from guys using permagloss and lumiseal, that why I was asking.

since I already have a lot of scrap rods I might go with I bottle of any of those products and put some coats on a guide after the CP and see how it looks, worst scenario is that I still need to apply a light coat of FC next day, still not sure if the 2nd coat of FC finish would bond with 1st coat of urethane products as permagloss and lumiseal.
I think its the same deal with CPxtra which is urethane based too, I was looking for an excuse to order a CPxtra to try it and this could be the opportunity, and would be used as clear coat finish when painted a rod of course.



Alex, agree 100% with your points above; I'm not using two coats FCL on a yardsale bass rod but  new saltwater build is gonna be right. I'm happy with the CPextra I got last week; I use automotive paint on Bryan's recco. Note that when wiping on with cloth rather than brushing you get a more even finish but may remove some paint so multiple coats may be necessary if you want a gloss rather than satin finish. also note, CP extra takes 24-48 hrs for full cure but I like it's durability.

J

[steelfish]

Alex, agree 100% with your points above; I'm not using two coats FCL on a yardsale bass rod but  new saltwater build is gonna be right. I'm happy with the CPextra I got last week; I use automotive paint on Bryan's recco. Note that when wiping on with cloth rather than brushing you get a more even finish but may remove some paint so multiple coats may be necessary if you want a gloss rather than satin finish. also note, CP extra takes 24-48 hrs for full cure but I like it's durability.
J

thanks JOhn for steping here with your CPxtra experience.
I dont see as a problem to wait 48hrs between coats of that finish cuz I dont always have free time all nights (only time when I work on rod/reels), but tell me, how many coats of CPxtra are needed to have a peace of mind on the durability for hits/scratches on the finish? 2 or 3 or maybe 4?

when you say you apply the finish with clothe? any kind of clothe? I understand that with a clothe you put just a tiny and thin coat, cuz you are sweeping it are the same time you are puting it

[thorhammer]

Hey Alex, jury still out on how many coats but I can tell you I couldn't scratch paint with a fingernail on one coat.