alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 500/501 jigmaster
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
June 19, 2018, 04:23:10 AM *
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Author Topic: 500/501 jigmaster  (Read 195278 times)
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Gman_WC
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« Reply #30 on: July 02, 2011, 08:13:10 AM »

Thanks Alan, What a guy.
I've got to say that the little silver Tiburon frame
makes the 501 a tuff looking little reel.
I"ll post a before and after pic's when it's done.
Thanks again -gary
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« Reply #31 on: July 11, 2011, 12:23:39 AM »

After some greased carbon fiber drags, a SS gear sleave, and the Tiburon frame,
the 501 is now ready to party in Baja on schoolie dorado.
Here is the before and after.
Thanks Alan. -g

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Alto Mare
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« Reply #32 on: July 11, 2011, 02:43:39 AM »

Nice looking reel Gary, looks like Alan hooked you up with some nice parts. I hope you enjoy it for many years, take care, Sal
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« Reply #33 on: July 11, 2011, 09:34:29 AM »

nice job!!!!!!!!!
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redsetta
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« Reply #34 on: August 03, 2011, 01:15:31 PM »

Hi all,
I got a set of Newell 5:1 S/S gears for my 500 and was found that the pinion doesn't fit (as per the earlier posts re: the Penn upgrade gears).
For whatever reason, I thought the Newell kit would slot right in.
It fits on the spool shaft fine, but doesn't fit over the right-side bearing, nor does it fit over the shoulders of the spool shaft.
I assume that only option is to slip the collar off and open out the gap on the top of the pinion, then expand the ID about 1/8th of an inch down into the pinion with a drill press to accommodate the bearing.
Before I start butchering this beautifully made kit, is there anything other insight/advice I should consider?
Cheers, Justin
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #35 on: August 03, 2011, 03:13:17 PM »

Hey Justin, may I ask where you got that kit from? I've heard of mismatched sets before. The 5:1 newell kit for the Jigmaster should fit right in. Was your Jigmaster assembled before you decided to upgrade, or did you have the parts laying aroud. Another possibility could be that have the wrong spool Undecided.
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redsetta
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« Reply #36 on: August 03, 2011, 04:08:25 PM »

Thanks Sal - I hadn't considered that.
Panama picked it up for me direct from Newell (thanks again mate!).
I built the reel out of parts, but had matched red side-plates and gears - now in one of Alan's Tiburon frames.



The spool has the 500 part number on it and the Newell pinion also doesn't fit on the right-side bearing (tube), which made me think perhaps it was a 505 set.
I'll tear it down again tonight and recheck all the part numbers.
I think I've got a 505 spool in stock, so I'll try the gear on that.
I'll also hold off on any alterations until I get to the bottom of it all - 'measure twice, cut once' as they say...
Thanks again for the input.
Justin
« Last Edit: August 07, 2017, 06:32:58 PM by redsetta » Logged

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Alan J
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« Reply #37 on: August 07, 2011, 12:32:03 PM »

The spool gear clicker racket on a non aluminum  jig master spool has come off. How can I fix this?
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AZTunaBaron
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« Reply #38 on: August 08, 2011, 05:46:11 PM »

Hi Alan, thank you for the great detail provided in this post. I have two 500's that I'm going to clean up. One has been "serviced" once, the other never, and respectively have been fished about 25 and 15 times. We'll see what they look like when I open them up. I'm excited to learn to do this on my own. I noticed the schematic link from page one no longer works, do you have another link? I ordered two sets of carbontex washers from smoothdrag, Cal's grease and I have Penn oil and Penn grease. Do you think I'm ready to go, or do I really need the corrosion X too? I live in Phx, AZ so I don't think rust is an issue. Thanks.
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redsetta
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« Reply #39 on: August 08, 2011, 06:01:52 PM »

G'day AZ,
The schematic is available here (ie 500L): http://www.pennreels.com/exp_views/conv/500L.pdf
Or here for the earlier 500 model: http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/pdf/Penn/Product%20Diagrams/500.pdf
The 500 doesn't have ball bearings, so a drop of your Penn oil on either end of the spool shaft (or straight into either bearer cup) should do the trick.
CorrosionX and/or ReelX are top-quality products, however, and certainly worth having on hand...
Good luck!
Justin
« Last Edit: August 08, 2011, 06:17:51 PM by redsetta » Logged

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« Reply #40 on: August 09, 2011, 05:49:33 AM »

Hi Red: thanks for the reply and link. I probably should have mentioned, even though I live in AZ, all of the fishing done on these reels has been offshore. Mostly 2day trips from SD. Don't know if that amount of exposure is enough to cause rust?
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alantani
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« Reply #41 on: August 10, 2011, 08:07:29 AM »

all it takes is a little left over salt from "that last trip last year!"
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« Reply #42 on: August 12, 2011, 10:24:54 PM »

Ok, so I opened both of them up and following your tutorial was easy and took less time than I imagined a few episodes of Fri Nite Lights and 24 and I was done, or so I might be. I didn't have an accident as you describe, so I didn't lube those parts of the reel. Would it be a better idea to have the "accident" and lube all those parts? Also, I could not find anything small enough with enough ummph to pop out the retaining pin of the sleeve. So that part of the reel remains untouched too. One reel looked really good on the inside, the washers looked good, but I still switched them out with "carbontex" ones I purchased. The sleeve looks good, etc.... The other reel was not so clean, green spots here and there, which confuses me because I associate that color with copper....So those two aspects of the tutorial I didn't do, is it imperative to do? These are 500L's and about 5 & 3 years old.

The drag feels considerably better than it did-I guess "smoothdrag" is apt   Smiley
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Norcal Pescador
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« Reply #43 on: August 13, 2011, 09:26:39 AM »

If you do take them apart like an "accident" then you can inspect them all and give all parts a very light coat of grease for protection. The parts greased for lubrication are mostly just the gears, drag washers, eccentric and jack. Don't overdo it, though. The rest just get a light touch for protection. You're right on the green gunk meaning copper (brass). Most parts are brass-based and may have a nickel plating. If there's green, there's corrosion of the brass. Clean those parts well. Brasso, steel wool, whatever.

The gear sleeve retaining pin takes a little force sometimes to get it started out. Try pushing it out from both sides. If you can get it started with an old ball point pen or a small nail or tack then you should be able to grab it with needlenose pliers and pull it out. Once the gear sleeve comes off I like to clean the post and the inside of the sleeve well and give the post a few drops of ReelX or CorrosionX before the sleeve goes back on.

Carbontex! Cool Great stuff!

Rob
« Last Edit: August 13, 2011, 10:26:27 AM by norcal pescador » Logged

Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? Roll Eyes

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD
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« Reply #44 on: August 19, 2011, 11:43:00 AM »

Is this a collectable Penn reel?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230660306833&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1156
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