500/501 jigmaster

Started by alantani, December 07, 2008, 04:39:45 PM

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Benni3, Donnyboat and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

raumati01

Just bought a 500 jigmaster off the local auction site and found it wouldn't go into freespool. Opened it up and someone had assembled in back to front so it was continually working.I've emailed the seller and told them it doesn't work, not sure how to play this one but thanks to this tutorial i had it fixed in less than and hour. Now to put in a stainless gear sleeve and 5+1 drag washers.

It's going to be for kayak use only , as alan pointed out very easy to maintain in a harsh environment.

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Bucktail

Quotebecause the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #8). 

What would be the negative side of not discarding the tension washer?  If there is a downside, wouldn't it be better to just use the thinner 6-60 and leaving the tension washer in place?

Thanks,
Bob
Just a jig-a-lo

SoCalPaddle

So I'm near the end of my rebuild of my 500 and have added a stainless gear sleeve and dog and replaced the fiber washers with carbontex washers.  With everything together the whole handle/gear sleeve assembly has about the thickness of a washer of play (in and out direction).  When fully assembled, I can pull on the handle/star drag and it will move in and out in relation to the side plate.  It's been so long since I used this reel that I can't remember if this was normal for a jigmaster.  With the right side plate removed and left fully assembled I can pull on the handle and see the gear sleeve move away from the bridge. pushing on the handle likewise closes this gap.

I included the tension washer back in my rebuild because I didn't find the carbontex significantly thicker than the old fiber washers.  I also made sure I reused all three metal washers in the drag stack and the new carbon washer is under the main gear.  So I didn't leave anything out  ;) 

What could be the problem?  The tension washer seems to have a bit of "wave" to it.  Is this normal and does it just need to be turned over on the stack?  It looks like I could add a second carbon washer under the main gear to take up the play.  Would that be a viable option?

alantani

this amount of play is normal.   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Black Pearl

Quote from: SoCalPaddle on April 12, 2013, 11:12:13 PM
So I'm near the end of my rebuild of my 500 and have added a stainless gear sleeve and dog and replaced the fiber washers with carbontex washers.  With everything together the whole handle/gear sleeve assembly has about the thickness of a washer of play (in and out direction).  When fully assembled, I can pull on the handle/star drag and it will move in and out in relation to the side plate.  It's been so long since I used this reel that I can't remember if this was normal for a jigmaster.  With the right side plate removed and left fully assembled I can pull on the handle and see the gear sleeve move away from the bridge. pushing on the handle likewise closes this gap.

I included the tension washer back in my rebuild because I didn't find the carbontex significantly thicker than the old fiber washers.  I also made sure I reused all three metal washers in the drag stack and the new carbon washer is under the main gear.  So I didn't leave anything out  ;) 

What could be the problem?  The tension washer seems to have a bit of "wave" to it.  Is this normal and does it just need to be turned over on the stack?  It looks like I could add a second carbon washer under the main gear to take up the play.  Would that be a viable option?

How about a 5.1:1 SS main and pinion gears?

SoCalPaddle

Quote from: alantani on April 12, 2013, 11:20:19 PM
this amount of play is normal.   :-\

LOL, Ok.  These idiosyncrasies of these old reels make them fun!

Alto Mare

Quote from: alantani on April 12, 2013, 11:20:19 PM
this amount of play is normal.   :-\
Yes it is, but I personally like no play ;D
SCP, remove the sleeve and place a shim under it. The shim need to sit flat on the bridge, you'll get away with it if it's a little bigger than the post.
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

erikpowell

Quote from: Alto Mare on April 12, 2013, 11:27:54 PM
Quote from: alantani on April 12, 2013, 11:20:19 PM
this amount of play is normal.   :-\
Yes it is, but I personally like no play ;D
SCP, remove the sleeve and place a shim under it. The shim need to sit flat on the bridge, you'll get away with it if it's a little bigger than the post.

Hi Sal, I'd like to correct the same issue on my 2 jiggies.... can you give some more specifics on that shim? i.e. thickness, diameter, and what you used? Thanks bud!

Alto Mare

Erik, those are not easy to find, I make my own.
The dimentions are ID 7.25mm OD 11.5mm. Thickness is usually .10mm.

SoCalPaddle here is a picture of what I mentioned above





By the way, McMasters Carr does carry the shims for the 113H, I use these Peel-Away Shims


Item #90902A221
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Bucktail

Quote from: Bucktail on April 12, 2013, 05:22:14 PM
Quotebecause the #6-113 drag washer under the gear is thicker than the stock fiber washer (key #4), i usually discard the tension spring (key #8). 

What would be the negative side of not discarding the tension washer?  If there is a downside, wouldn't it be better to just use the thinner 6-60 and leaving the tension washer in place?

Thanks,
Bob

???
Just a jig-a-lo

Alto Mare

Some like to remove the tension washer, I like to keep them in all  my reels.
Some also like to upgrade to this type of washer:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=mat8q3
You would get away with the one that comes with the stack, these are not cheap.
About the drag stack, I keep the 3+1 configuration, on these reels, I do not make adjustment with additional washers.
I like to make adjustments by sanding the spacing sleeve. Scott offers different sleeve length, but I like to make my own, all you need to do is  sand it down a bit, until you get it as you want it.
On all my reels, I like zero movement with the spool when the drag is backed all the way while turning the handle.
If you have the opposite of what I mentioned above, simply add another tension spring ( wavy washer ). You could place it on top of the other, or under the star.
I hope this is of some help.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Keta

#162
I replace the wavy spring washer with a Belleville spring washer and a shorter spacer sleeve.  I like to have a tiny bit of space or just contacting the drag when the star is backed off all of the way.  SS spacer sleeves have been planned for sometime but are not a current priority.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

SoCalPaddle

Thank you to everyone for the replies and insights.  This is one of the reasons I was so happy to find this forum, the friendly folks and the breadth of knowledge.

Thanks!!

Bryan Young

And sometimes it's difficult fitting the Belleville in the drag stack because it rubs on the sideplate. In this case, I place the Beleville under the star. Works very well, but I still like it in the side plate if possible.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D