Shimano Tiagra TI-80WA from kamu!

[alantani]

kamu-san, thanks a million!

Your basic tools to start your own reel repair.


Grab a schematic and lets get started.


Remove push button shield #91.


Remove slide plate & spring #93 & #94.


Remove push low button shaft #702 & handle assembly #703.


Remove lever hub cover #315.


Remove lever quadrant #728.


Take note of lock washers. Previous 130’s had NO lock washers.


Also take note of O-ring on side plates under harness lug #717.


Remove spool assembly #713.


Remove left side plate #736.


Note: spool bearings, they look lubed, but like all my reels I’m going to repack all bearings with yamalube.


Remove pinion gears, cross pin #36C, preload spring #40, & preload washer #41C.


Remove cooling shield #566.


Remove pressure plate #325 & drag washer #324.


Remove drag plate #734. Lightly lube behind plate w/ Cal’s or shimano drag grease.


Coat drag washer w/ Cal’s or shimano drag grease & wipe off excess & reinstall.


Replace 2 shims under anti-reverse ratchet #299/


Ratchet assembly


Note: SHD (Shimano Hydrothermal Drag mechanism) Must not be disassembled.


Install alert ratchet, add a drop of locktite to prevent screws from coming loose.


Install 8 preload springs #40 & preload washer #40C. Stock configuration (( )) (( )) |


Lightly coat ratchet assembly & spool.

Install pinion gears #287 & #335


Completed spool assembly.


Note: shoe not removable.


Completed one piece frame #735.


Grease all screw holes & replace left side plate #736


Frame & left side plate installed. Grease frame to prevent salt intrusion.


Install the spool assembly.


Clean & lube drive gear A #282 & drive gear B #283.


Completed gear assembly ready to install on right side plate.


Completed right side plate, add one drop corrosion X to alert plunger.


Install strike alert lever #319.


Install drag control lever #729.


Install lever quadrant & hub cover.





-Note: These reels were serviced new out of the box. These are great reels with a few small pieces here & there. Like previous reels I’ve done, a little more grease would be nice, since we use them for trolling & NOT casting. For piece of mind, I coat all parts with grease to prevent intrusion & corrosion. These reels should last the user a life time. Like Alan says, “Drag grease is a must.”  
                                                                        Aloha, Kamu.

[alantani]

Note: Wear on alert ratchet TT0732, notice elongation of holes.


Note: Marks on spool. This was caused from alert plundger hitting spool because of overuse
of clicker.

-This reel was brought to me for service which was set up for bottom fishing, with an electra mate style retreval system. After noticing marks on spool and speaking to the owner, I learned how this was caused. Because they drop lines a depth of 600 ft, they leave the ratchet on to prevent back lash, which began to make perfect sense to me. They could do other things while dropping line and know when the lines hits bottom. As the owner explained this was a cheap fix for their usage. I replaced TT-0719 alert plundger, TT0732 alert ratchet, and TT0683 click spring for a total of $23. As for trollers thats why it is recommended to turn off clicker while setting line or immediately after a strike. But some people just love that sound