one piece dog and post for a squidder

Started by mhc, January 04, 2017, 02:25:53 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Ron Jones

I'll agree with the others, fantastic job. I'll also opine on the concept. The way I see it, any reduction in the number of parts is a good thing. I don't see the hole being exposed to stresses that a post wouldn't already be putting on the plate except for the rotation and brass is usually a decent bearing surface. I think this is the way it always SHOULD have been and that we need to look into doing this more.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

Alto Mare

Quote from: noyb72 on January 04, 2017, 10:14:15 PM
I'll agree with the others, fantastic job. I'll also opine on the concept. The way I see it, any reduction in the number of parts is a good thing. I don't see the hole being exposed to stresses that a post wouldn't already be putting on the plate except for the rotation and brass is usually a decent bearing surface. I think this is the way it always SHOULD have been and that we need to look into doing this more.
Ron
No Ron, the peened post would be the best option , but, this isn't what it's about.
I'm not going to criticise a man that put his heart into this project, I actually look up to him.
Thanks again Mike for sharing youir hard work with us.

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

mhc

#17
Thanks everyone, I wasn't sure whether to keep going with this or not. The fact that it is for a squidder and not a senator has helped, not to mention Chris's offer to turn a couple of blanks. As Chris pointed out, a more precise post shaft and hole in the bridge should improve the durability. I'll look at a coil spring system in the meantime.

Mike

Quick update- a more conventional spring;

It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

hurt locker

Old style craftsmanship!!!!!  Big round of Applause for you!!!!

PacRat

I really enjoy watching you refine this design, it's evolving beautifully. Your innovation and skills with the hand tools are an inspiration that with a little patience, skill and time; almost anything is possible.
Thanks for sharing this process!
-Mike

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

mhc

It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

mhc

#22
I was able to see how the one piece dog & post would fit on the squidder 3-200 bridge today after the internal parts for the squidder turned up during the week.
The first thing I wanted to check was the clearance between the 'back' of the bridge and the spool to make sure there is room for the C clip and post  - something I would have checked first if I had a spool and bridge at the time.
I assembled the frame with the spool and bearings and centered the spool;



I removed the head plate and put a blob of blu-tack where I thought the dog would go on the bridge;

 

Put a piece of cling wrap over the blu-tack to stop it sticking to the spool and put the plate back in place, making sure the raised ribs inside the spool contacted the blu-tack;



I was having trouble measuring the height of the depression left by the spool accurately, so I resorted to International Non-Standard Units - Tom's dogs. The depression was close to 1.25 TD or approximately 2.6mm (1 TD = 2.1mm);



The first prototype was a loose fit and sat approximately 1.6 mm (or 0.75 TD) proud of the 3-66 bridge so there should be enough clearance - more soon.

Mike  
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

mo65

   This is very impressive...how did I miss this one? Glad you posted again today Mike...well deserved sensei! 8)
~YOU CAN TUNA GEETAR...BUT YOU CAN'T TUNA FEESH~


mhc

#24
Thanks Mo - no one was more surprised than me.   :o

Chris (Rothmar2) has got a few projects on the go at the moment so I thought I would make and fit a second prototype to 'prove' the concept before taking up any of his time with turning the posts on dog blanks for this. I used the same process as the first, with the exception I used a tapered needle file to make the c clip groove instead of the hacksaw blade used last time. I also took a bit more time with the post trying to keep a better shape.



The tapered file for the c clip groove;



To find the post location on the squidder 3-200 bridge, I traced the outer perimeter of the gear, put one of Tom's dogs on a bridge post and rotated the sleeve so the main dog was half way between the ratchet teeth.
Without moving the ratchet, I then selected the tooth for the 2nd dog to engage with and scribed a short tangential line (close to perpendicular to the radius of the ratchet at that location) from the face of the tooth to near the edge of the main gear;



The finished dog will be 4 mm or less wide at the post, so the hole center needs to be 2 mm from the edge of the gear - and on the tangent from the rathchet tooth;



The dog post is approx 3 mm dia (2.95 - 3.02) so I drilled a 1/8" (3.2mm) for the dog and a 1.5mm hole for the spring post;



Shaped the dog - I got a bit carried away here and removed more from the back than I should have, the black line is the approx location of the gear;



I was able to salvage it by gently hammering the spur for the spring in closer to the dog (dog on the right);



Install the dog and spring;



The dog was not quite completely covered by he gear but after a bit of fine tuning it cleared the sideplate;



The back of the assembly is approx 1 mm (~1/2 TD) proud of the bridge;



I put the reel together and gave the spool a spin - I was more than a bit surprised, and disappointed when there was a nasty sharp rubbing or contact noise. There should be more than 1mm clearance over the dog post! I moved the spool to the left and the noise decreased but was still there, I pulled the spool out and put a blob of grease on the dog post and it looked to be untouched when I opened it again. I checked the spool a few times and it looked good. I tried another spool and it was fine - but didn't solve the problem with the first spool. After a lot more head scratching, it turned out the clicker ratchet on the first spool is slightly out off center and about three or four of the teeth were rubbing on the clicker pawl. Probably would have found the problem earlier if it I wasn't looking for problems with the new dog post. The clicker was a bit too firm for me anyway, so I gave the pawl a few file strokes being careful not to loose shape or remove too much.
There is no interference now and I'm happier than I was when I first heard the noise  ;D ;D
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.

Alto Mare

Mike, I could see you enjoy creating things by hand, very nice. It's not about how much work it takes to create those parts, it's about the finished product.
Those should hold up just fine with the numbers that reel puts out.
Excellent work!

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Swami805

Do what you can with that you have where you are

Bill B

Mike you are a true artisan, solid work brother....Bill
It may not be very productive,
but it's sure going to be interesting!

Rothmar2

Very slick work Mike. Can't wait wait to have a crack at this myself. The detail you have put into this post will certainly help myself, and hopefully others. Great post!

mhc

#29
Thanks for the kind words guys - and the encouragement to persevere with this concept.
Sal you're spot on (again) - it's more about the challenge of putting an idea into practice rather than a practical or cost/time effective improvement to an already good reel.
Chris - I didn't get a blank shaped to suit the mini lathe capacity on the weekend - there were a few delays with the internal parts I wasn't expecting - not to mention the slightly out of round clicker sprocket! (nothing to do with Tom's kit or the parts I got from Scott's) I'm sure you've got a few things to keep you occupied in the meantime.
Mike
It can't be too difficult - a lot of people do it.