Possible tool and Product

[foakes]

Might be interesting --

Opinions?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/T25100?email=f_oakes@yahoo.com&utm_source=email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=011617_t25100_top

Best,

Fred

[Keta]

Not a bad price and it looks good for small jobs.

[STRIPER LOU]

Looks good Fred! Excellent price too. Would have to go to Goodwill and pick up a large toaster oven. Gracie would not be happy if I tried to bake parts in her kitchen range!!!  

[Reel 224]

Looks good Fred! Excellent price too. Would have to go to Goodwill and pick up a large toaster oven. Gracie would not be happy if I tried to bake parts in her kitchen range!!!  

That said, another thing comes to mind. Ventilation. In a shop like yours Lou and mine were it is in the house, it wouldn't be piratical. But for a detached building (Shop) that sounds like a good low cost small jobber tool. You would have to have an air compressor and oven of some sort.

Joe

[jurelometer]

Hi Fred,

Add a sand blasting booth to prep parts, a painting booth (powder gets everywhere), and an oven (ventilated),  and you are good to go.   Powder can be purchased for 10 -20$ a lb, and is good for a year, usually more- just have to keep it very dry.  Oh, and a  particulant filter mask.   When I took a class in powder coating, they would not allow folks with pacemakers.

The price for that gun is  about the same as other entry-level guns.   Look for the output voltage spec.   If you want to do multiple coats,  a dual voltage gun that hits at least 25 kvolts is nice, but you can fake it with a 15 kvolt gun by applying the second coat while the part is still hot, sort of heat flocking it on.  Most of the interesting finishes  are created by applying  a base color and then  a tinted clearcoat.


You can improvise a pretty inexpensive setup with shower curtains for spray booth, toaster oven outside, etc.   But it takes some more stuff than just a powder gun.  I posted a couple threads on powder coating reel parts with some more details.

-J

[STRIPER LOU]

Agreed Joe. I try to do very little in the shop that causes a lot of dust. Even if its the slightest amount, everything gets covered. Also turning the Acrylic is nasty and I have a filtered shop vac that catches the most of it. That stuff will give you a cough you wouldn't believe!!!!  As far as painting, its all done outside and with a mask.

And even at that it was starting to bother me. One of the reasons I build very few plugs now.

I still use the plug drier and rod drier inside on occasion. Some of the 2 part epoxies are pretty nasty. For those, if the weather allows, I open the basement door and add an exhaust fan to help remove the fumes.

Like jurelometer says, a good place is to do it outside.

Still neat though and I like being able to do almost anything at the shop but chances are if I bought one, it would probably sit for ions as projects here are never ending.
It all good though.
Have a great afternoon,  ..  Lou

[Cadman]

     We have an electrostatic powder paint system at work, and the best way to keep powder overspray and particulate dust from going everywhere is a recovery system. This is simply an exhaust system that sucks in all the extra powder that doesn't stick to the part. However when you use a system like this, it goes through a lot of powder.
     You will also need a good oven to heat the part thoroughly to harden the paint.
     I also custom make and powder paint jigs at home for fishing with a fluid bed, this is the second best way to powder paint small objects.