yet another reason not to imbibe

[oc1]

My guess.... Black and Decker sold through Sears in 1971.  I bought it new but it was retired many years ago.  Sometimes we save things.  Still had my social security number etched in the side.  That was a thing back then.

No tool rest yet.  The tool rest is sold as an add-on.  The red button that pins down the trigger gets stuck so I run it off a foot pedal for the Foredom tool.  It took some time to get the remains of a mud dauber nest out of the chuck.
-steve

[nelz]

There are four stacks of two magnets in a +-+- arrangement.

Steve: So what effect does the "+ -" arrangement have compared to all magnets facing the same way?

I've magged a couple of reels but have always used a single magnet so never needed to worry about the polarity arrangement. I use flat super-powerful magnets taken from old computer hard drives. This one was glued using super glue gel. It's held well, but both surfaces were perfectly flat and were thoroughly cleaned of any oils.

Keep on tinkering man!

[oc1]

I didn't think it would work without the plus-minus thing but really don't know.  It is based on Lenz's Law.  You can find plenty of information on Lenz's Law but I've never seen it explained in simple enough terms for me to understand.

The neodymium discs are not expensive at K.J. Magnetics.
-steve

[mo65]

   Polarity only comes into play when multiple magnets are used...and I'm not sure it's even noticeable then...at least in my experiments it didn't shine. The whole Lenz Law thing is tough to understand. Broken down to layman's terms: When a metallic body spins in a magnetic field it's spin will be opposed by that magnetic field. Is that layman's terms? HA! Still sounds like an insurance company denial! An aluminum spool is easiest to control with magnets. It has less inertia than that old heavy chrome spool.

[oc1]

That's actually a really good explanation Mike.  Thank you.

Also, they have magnets with a countersunk hole in the center of the disc.  So, the magnets can be screwed to the side plate instead of using glue.  Then more discs can be stacked on top if they are needed.  
-steve

[Rivverrat]

I just read this thread. I think it's pretty cool stuff  you did here & then you to take it fishing. Pretty good stuff.

[nelz]

   Polarity only comes into play when multiple magnets are used...and I'm not sure it's even noticeable then...at least in my experiments it didn't shine. The whole Lenz Law thing is tough to understand. Broken down to layman's terms: When a metallic body spins in a magnetic field it's spin will be opposed by that magnetic field. Is that layman's terms? HA! Still sounds like an insurance company denial! An aluminum spool is easiest to control with magnets. It has less inertia than that old heavy chrome spool.

Hey Mo, ya can't get any more laymanish then that, lol. I would have figured that opposing fields would cancel each other out and reduce the effect though. One of these days I'll have to dabble in changeable multiple magnets using my 500S Jiggy with the quick-release left side plate.

On a side-note, with all the after-market fancy aluminum Jigmaster plates out there, nobody has come out with a quick-release version like the original, so that's still an irreplaceable feature of the originals.

[mo65]

I would have figured that opposing fields would cancel each other out and reduce the effect though.

   Well...on paper it would seem so...but like many things in the real world...it's not so "black and white". It's probably similar to two speakers that are wired out of phase. They don't actually cancel each other out, but produce a weaker, thin sound. Even though I never really noticed a change when swapping polarity, I still run all my magged reels with polarity as suggested.

[oc1]

The narrow spool Shakespeare Criterion is not working out as well as I had hoped.  I realized that the arbor had not been trimmed back far enough when turning the new spindle.  When I went back to cut off more material my hand slipped and I gouged the spindle with the file.

I had three Criterion parts reels.  One from circa 1922, a 1924 and a 1937 model.  The stand from 1922 is one piece and would not work.  The 1924 model stand would have been perfect except it was already scavenged for another project.  So, I used the 1937 stand which had broken and been repaired by a previous owner with a drill, pop rivet and some soft plumbers solder.



The stand was not square so it had to be disassembled and brazed.  I didn't do much better than the last owner in getting it straight.  The stand posts were cut down, drilled and tapped for 4-40 screws.  I can't drill a straight hold to save my life and need to work on that.

The circa 1937 reel bridge had been scavenged previously and the older models did not have a bridge so one was fabricated.  The gear shaft that had been peened to the frame plate was removed and brazed to the new bridge.  The bridge was made to reach the clutch lever without a linkage.  This part worked out OK.

This time the clutch lever was supported by both the face plate and the frame plate.  This makes the lever feel very solid; better then the Shakespeare factory Koph clutch levers.  

The handle I was missing one knob so a counterweight was added.  I think I like the counterweight handles better than the double handles.  With a counterweight the handle can be a little shorter without having it bump my knuckles as it is cranked.  A shorter handle can be cranked faster to compensate for the slow gear ratio and low IPT.  Since the thumb can only create about three pounds of drag without being burned, I do not need a lot of cranking power.  I need cranking speed.





The tail plate was cut down as before.



With the spool flange a little crooked and the stand a little crooked it was really difficult to get things lined up.  I ended up with so many little shims and spacers that the reel is really difficult to assemble.  And, there are huge gaps between the flange and side plate where line can get under the spool.  To top it all off, the reel does not cast as well as the steam punk Tru-Form above.  That reel (the Tru-Form) is casting better all the time as the bushings are breaking in.  "Breaking in" is a kind way of saying that the bushings are wearing to accommodate my small misalignments.  But still, it is one of the longest casting reels I have.



I will say that the narrow spool version is really comfortable and tucks into the palm nicely.  I'll stick with it for a while to see if the casting distance can be improved while keeping an eye out for the next reel victim.  

-steve

[sdlehr]

This is a great thread, Steve, I hope some day it is made into a movie!

[Bill B]

The way Steve is taking along on his journey....how about a Sticky..    Bill

[oc1]

No, please Bill.  There is more to come but I might remove it all myself when I sober up and get back on the straight and narrow.
-steve

[Gfish]

Every now and then an"altered state of conscious" type of thinking and inspiration produces great creations.
Just listened awhile back to what I think was the pinnacle of the 'Stones musical creativity: the (probably)opiate drenched "Exile on Main Street" recording-rock/pop/folk genius.
Gfish
Edit disclaimer: I'm not at all advocating drug use for creative thinking/actions!

[oc1]

I hate this narrowed spool reel.  No, I hate myself for having wasted so much time on it.  I should have started over when the spool flange came out crooked.  I should have started over again when the stand was screwed up and when the spindle was gouged.  You can't make a decent reel out of junk parts.  But I stuck with it and threw good after bad.

On the second or third fishing trip the conditions were not very good, I was not hopeful and the reel would not cast very far at all.  So, I started playing around with the spool bushing end caps shifting the spool from one side to the other.  I could make the left bushing quiet down and I could make the right bushing quiet down, but not both simultaneously.  Then I started loosening and tightening screws to shift things around and decided that the reel would work much better if the frame was slightly wider and the distal ends of the spindles were riding in the bushings.  Then the impossible happened and a modest fish was hooked.  It was not uneventful.  The frame twisted because of the loose screws and clutch kept jumping out of gear; not once but constantly.  I had to hold the clutch lever in gear with my left thumb, level the line with the left index finger, crank with the right hand and just hope the line did not get under the spool.  A larger fish would have eaten my lunch.



A little success made me try again though and a whole new set of spacers were made to widen the frame a bit.  Oops, the gap between the spool and the frame is much wider now.  You can see daylight behind the spool.  But it does cast better.  I could not make it jump out of gear on the bench.  When the lever is moved from free spool to engaged there is a little resistance as it goes over the hump.  If you imagine a small radius arc slightly overlapping a larger radius arc they intersect at two points.  The small arc is the movement of the clutch lever and the larger arc is the movement of the articulated bridge.   The hump is that football-shaped area between the two arc intersections.  I was counting on the hump to keep it in gear.



One last try fishing and an little baby was caught.  But, the reel was still jumping out of gear.  The hump approach does not work so it will need a new clutch lever plan.  That was enough for me.  I removed the line, sprayed it with oil and put it on the shelf, where it will remain forever.  But I got an idea.....
-steve

[fishhawk]

Hey man, that's the way I grew up fishin! Modifying junk! lol, sorry for laughing but it reminds me of days long gone! Steve, keep it up man from my experience 1 out 5 end up actually working!