yet another reason not to imbibe

[sdlehr]

I've discovered that this book has a chapter on how to make a cork/balsa arbor. I don't have the book. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Bass-Fishing-Jason/dp/1417994657

Sid

[Midway Tommy]

I'll add that I, too, am enjoying the adventures of Steve's antique angling.

Sid

Me, too, although I would really like to observe the entire process while under imbibement. Steve's that is. 

[oc1]

I've been focusing more on the bamboo rods lately but using the Tournament Free Spool reels on a regular basis.  They are much smaller in the hand than the Standard Professional Free Spool although they all get about the same distance. 

Every time you pick up a reel with bearing blocks it helps to oil it again.  I usually forget to do that before leaving and end up removing the end caps to oil the shafts/bearings while bouncing around in a canoe.  One advantage of the drilled Standard Professional with all the internal organs exposed is that it's a snap to oil.  The bearings and gears can be reached with an oil applicator tip without opening to removing anything.  I'm wondering......
-steve

[MarkT]

I've noticed that I don't need to imbibe to do questionable or even outright dumb stuff.  But, if I do imbibe, it only makes it worse!

[oc1]

Yeah, but it's the best excuse for doing stupid stuff.
-steve

[oc1]

There should be some way to filter out the people who don't know what-the-heck they're talking about.  Forget what I said above about the casting drag on the 1936 model Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool.  I got another one of these and it is tuned or worn differently.  In messing around with it I realized how it really works.  The casting drag when the reel is tilted to the left is not a result of the flat spool shaft end rubbing on the jewel.  There is a small shoulder on the outboard side of the clicker ratchet and it is that shoulder rubbing on the tail plate bearing that causes the drag on the spool.

One the second reel, when both jeweled end caps are tightened all the way down there is a few thousandths of side play in the spool, but the clicker ratchet shoulder cannot contact the brass tail plate bearing.  When the reel is tilted to the left the flat end of the spool shaft rides on the jewel but the free spool is still good.  Now I'm wondering if it really matters what the end of the spool shaft looks like (pointed or flat).  But, when the tail plate end cap is loosened, the spool can shift to the left and the clicker ratchet comes into contact with the bearing.  

On the first 1936 model reel (photos above), the end of the spool shaft has been filed or worn so tightening the end cap all the way down does not prevent the clicker ratchet from contacting the bearing.  The dimpled spacer I put in (there's a picture of that somewhere up above) allows the end cap to move the spool to the right so the ratchet shoulder cannot contact the bearing.

I love these reels.  It's like reel nirvana.  I accumulated four of them (two 1931 and two 1936 models) and don't even look at the auctions any more.  I take two of them out fishing each trip and have two for back up or two in need of cleaning. I still need to come up with a better system of keeping them lubricated.  Two screws must be removed to open the 1931 model but five small screws must be removed to open the 1936 model.  If the side plate is removed to lubricate or clean after every use the screws are going to start getting sloppy.

The split bamboo rods are another story and definitely not nirvana.  Hell maybe.  From top to bottom in the photo:

A) 1936 reel on South Bend 9' fly rod blank with oak handle extending to 10'.  The original cork fly rod grip is now a baitcasting rod foregrip.  This was probably a salmon rod and would be equivalent to a what they call six or eight weight today.  It broke today casting a jig tied on a 3/8 ounce weight.  It had been broken and repaired twice before.

B) 1936 reel on a Horrocks Ibbotson Governor 9' fly rod blank.  It was probably about a four weight fly rod.  Extended to 10' with a Phyllostachys bamboo handle from the yard.  It broke on a medium bonefish today.  It had been broken and repaired before.

(C) 1931 reel on a no-name 9' fly rod.  About four weight.  Extended to 10' with a  Calcutta cane handle.  Broken and repaired before.

(D) 1931 reel on a cane pole.  The pole is Calcutta cane (Dendrocalamus strictus) with a Phyllostachys aurea cane tip section.  Phyllostachys aurea is the type of cane pole you might find in the corner tackle shop.  The tip has a nice fast action but not much strength.  But, if you hook up and the tip section is pointing straight at the fish you will be fighting the fish with the Calcutta cane.  The Calcutta cane has a lot of strength and will never break.









-steve

[fishhawk]

Steve, thanks for the heat/magnet tip. Btw. .....nice rig! Love hearing those ol rods moan n groan under load! Or mine do anyhow, maybe theyre about to break! lol

[oldmanjoe]

    Wow i just found this tread .   Had to look up the word imbibe, come to find out it`s something i have been doing for 45 years ....
   
      For the oiling problem ,is it possible to make little felt washers  to put on the shafts...    Or a small piece in the end caps ....
Something like you would see in a electric motor ?  Love the boo poles     The reel rims , can you build them up some with expoye and sand to fit ?   joe

[oc1]

I almost sent you a pm Joe because you asked about the bamboo on another thread somewhere. 

Some old bait casting reels had a piece of material in the end cap to hold oil.  I've seen deteriorated ones, but have never seen a new or good one.  Cutting a little piece of felt would be worth a try.

You could probably reinforce and fix those hard rubber rings because  they're just spacers and don't support much.  Never tried it though.  There are a lot of candidates for repair out there because ring shrinkage seems to be a common problem that makes old reels rub and bind.
-steve

[oldmanjoe]

     I just pickup a 1958 triumph ,just because i liked the handle and side plate color for $9.00
  Lexan - plexaglass -corian  would make nice side pates.     Question how interchangeable are the parts ,especially the spools and end caps   

     Now i why your thumb looked so big in the picture, i didn`t realize how small the reel is ....    a picture  joe

[oc1]

I have one the same color (bought for the same reason) but can't remember the model off hand.  Don't know what the material is.  It's not hard rubber, might be catlin or might be something else.  Those tend to crack instead of shrink.  

Some Shakespeare parts will interchange.  That same end cap and handle will fit many reels.  Sometimes spools and gears can be swapped.

Size is one of the things I like most about the little Tournament Free Spool.  It tucks nicely into the hand.  If you can cup your hand around the reel, then you can use your thumb and forefinger to level the line while supporting the rod.  The balance point of the rod is under the reel spool so it's very comfortable and ergonomic.  It can be fished like a modern palming reel.


-steve

[oldmanjoe]

  This picture justs inspires me to make another bamboo pole .  I like old school fishing.....   joe

[oc1]

I managed to destroy my favorite reel with only five months of abuse and neglect.  Shakespeare Tournament Free Spool 1744 as discussed above.  It had the factory cork arbor that had been reshaped and the original owner and dilled some holes in the spool flange.  I had been into it several times for grease and oil change, but when the line was removed....




I cut the arbor off and...




A once-over with a rotary brass brush...



This must be why they call them freshwater reels.  Live and learn
-steve

[Tightlines667]

Ouch!

That saltwater is evil.

I wonder if you could consider an anodizing, poweder coating, or even paint job on one you like before using it?  Just don't tell the collectors

[mo65]

   I agree with John...just paint that spool. It's already been drilled full of holes by that previous owner...you can't hurt it's value. Make a new arbor, or just wind on some backing, and fish that bad boy!