Trick for Removing Rotating Head From Drive Shaft?

[Smols]

Fred,

Do you have a trick for removing the rotating head from the drive shaft on the microlite and the 110 (and probably other models too)? Once the side plate, drive axle, main gear, axle and hex nut are removed, the rotor needs to be unthreaded from the drive shaft. The problem is that the drive shaft spins free at that point and there is no resistance to unthread the rotor. I have been partially reassembling the gear, drive axle and crank arm so that I could hold the crank arm to provide enough resistance to unthread the rotor - but I was thinking there might be a better way.

Thanks,
Paul

[foakes]

No Paul --

Best way is to keep the crank, main, and worm-drive shaft in place -- then just unthread the rotor head.

Be careful when rethreading the rotor -- the threads are very fine.

The rotor is of course, Aluminum -- and is threading onto a steel worm drive shaft.

Some of these have left hand threads -- and some right handed -- so if started wrong -- difficult to repair.

The Microlites are the only ones with threaded rotating heads -- other models just have a drop-on head locked with a hex nut, lock washer, and sometimes a drive plate also in the larger models.

Best,

Fred

[Smols]

Thanks Fred, I was using a socket on the nut that holds the rotor on, so I was removing the shaft first. I realize now that if use a wrench on that nut, I could keep everything in place as you said. Not sure why I did not see that before.

It looks like I will need a few parts to get my new quiver of dam quick reels up and running properly. I will PM you with the parts that i am looking for to see if you have any of them in stock.

Thanks again,
Paul