Penn International II 80 TW Rebuild/ Repaint

[PennDaddy]

Hello all. I am.making a thread on my 80 TW rebuild.i have always wanted one and picked up this one that looked like it had fallen out of the bed of a truck going 80 mph down a gravel road. But, I have plans for that.  

I'll start by posting pictures of the original condition.

[PennDaddy]

After a whole can of liquid wrench, and 9 days of soaking I started taking out the side plate screws to have 2 of them corroded and frozen and 1 stripped out and corroded frozen. I used an easy out bit to drill through the heads. I had no luck with the extractor so I went into drilling them out.

The frozen stripped screw in the picture below was ground down using an air cut off tool wheel to remove the chrome plate, then drilled out the remaining screw.

[UKChris]

I'm looking forward to watching your progress. I hope it goes well although you have had a tricky start already and who knows what may be lurking inside. Brings tears to my eyes to see great gear mistreated like that. Good luck in restoring it to full functionality even if its beauty might be a little, um, tarnished.

[PennDaddy]

Thank you. I plan on doing a custom color paint job and have already restored the main side plate I just haven't had time to post the progress that far yet. I must say I am pleased with the results as of now.

[PennDaddy]

After getting the screws drilled out and getting the reel opened up here are the pictures.














Last one of the soak bucket.

[PennDaddy]

While the parts were soaking I ordered some replacement bearings from fast eddy in case I couldn't restore the original bearings or they were damaged and to stay within budget for the project. Eventually I will upgrade the bearings.



Original bearing with damaged cover.



I soaked the bearings in a zip lock bag for 2 days with liquid wrench. I them removed the shields.



The bearings looked good and only showed surface rust on the housing. I lightly sanded the surface rust away and used carb cleaner and compressed air to dry them.



I then packed the non spool bearings with marine grease.




Next step is installing them in the refurbished end plate.





My special cheat tool for pulling bearings is a paint can opening tool.

I used JB Weld Steel Stik epoxy putty to fill in the cleaned corrosion spots and dents. I applied, waited 30 min, then used my belt sander to sand the spots smooth. (Sorry was too dirty for pictures).

[PennDaddy]

I made a protective for the inside of the housing using cardboard. I then sanded and filled in the worst corrosion spots with JB Weld Steel Stik. I kneaded the material in small pieces and used wax paper and a rolling pin to make it very flat before molding it to the reel so there was less to sand. I then primer ed with a self etching primer.



I didn't realize how much the anodizing hid the imperfections. I didn't like the finished result so started back at square one using acetone and aircraft remover to strip it down. A little more filler and another sand job.

Meanwhile I began the spool portion with sanding and wire wheel.








I let 2 coats of primer dry for 24 hours, then it was on to the base coat. I didn't want to do much filling here, so I kept it minimal on the spool.

[PennDaddy]

Minimal Filling, sanding, 2 primer coats, 2 base coats and 3 clear coats later the finished spool...







With some down time between coats and sanding I decided to open my bearings completely and run them 'naked' as maintenance will be easy on this reel once completed. I got the originals bearings extremely clean and smooth using a soaking in rubbing alcohol and gentle periodic shaking method.



Now time to take apart the other side.

[PennDaddy]

Coercion with a rubber mallet and a block of wood results in the separation of parts once the screws are removed. I also removed the strike and full knobs by depressing them, then removing the retainer clip underneath. Inspection shows no abnormalities,  so I'm unsure why the one was sticking. The clicker knob was removed with a single nut removal.







And now what? You guessed it, filling, sanding, wire wheel and then primer.



While I had sand paper out, I roughed up the other parts, cleaned them with carb cleaner, then primer time only taping off the plastic part of the reel handle.

[PennDaddy]

Next up, the frame. I put as many screws as I could salvage back into the frame to lessen the tap and die cleanup after all the other work.









Now this is going to take some work....

[Bill B]

PennDaddy, great write up so far....please keep us posted on the progression.....Bill

[redsetta]

Nice work PD - looking forward to seeing more!
Cheers, Justin

[PennDaddy]

Thank you. It's a slow process. Next up is everything self etching primed, sanded and ready for final coat.





Perhaps a little more sanding before final coat..



After more sanding, the final coat started on the left side plate..



There is some minor pitting showing up in the final coat but it is far from where it was.

Here is the frame primered...



So far the frame has turned out excellent with most of the major damage repaired and the horrific corrosion from the rod mount almost unnoticeable.

I received all my parts I ordered yesterday. Some of the parts came from JDL TREASURES on E-bay. They have a great deal going on now, with 25 percent off orders when you buy more than two parts! Excellent transaction, and some of the best packing I have seen. The rest of the parts they didn't have, were ordered from Scott's MysticParts website. I also ordered some reel -X lubricant after doing some research for reassembly. More to come soon...


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[FatTuna]

What products did you use to paint and prime?

I really like the torx head screws for these reels. They are very easy to remove with an impact driver even if corrosion builds.

Nice work on the rebuild. Looks good so far.

[PennDaddy]

Thank you. I have been using Rustoleum brand self etching primer. I would have liked to get the toe head screws and may in the future. I am using VHT brand high temperature wheel paint for the color coats and also the clear finishing coats. More pictures to come. I picked the paint up at my local Auto Zone. I chose this paint due to it's scratch resistance. Only time and use will prove if it is.