Penn International II 80 TW Rebuild/ Repaint

Started by PennDaddy, May 05, 2017, 02:19:54 AM

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josa1

Yes, this is like one of those old time Serials at the movie theatre.  Just got to go back next week and see what happened.  Really impressed with the attention to detail and the refinishing.  I wouldn't have thought the parts would fit together with the extra coats of paint.

I'll be looking often!

josa1

PennDaddy

Cliffhangers make interesting stories.  ;)

I didn't think the parts would fit back together either. It did take "some" resanding and light scraping. I plan in doing a synopsis at the end as well as a tips section.

Stay tuned....

PennDaddy

#32
Now I move on to the badly corroded bottom of the reel. I really built this up due to the corrosion. The threads cleaned out, and ready for the base.




Next up is the left side of the reel.



And the right side...






Base installed with excess grease coming from the sides.





Final pictures...














Lots of work, patience and experimenting have transformed my reel. It went from a cosmetic 4 and functional 7 to a cosmetic 8 and functional 10. I think it looks pretty slick comparative and I may come back with a fine felt tip sharpie and do the letters on the logo in black. Now for the line and then fishing!

Next post is tips...

thorhammer

Nice work! That looks like a military grade stealth winch.  I've done a bit of same here and there, but just to flush out a spool or something internal. Let us know how this paint holds up. I, and many others, have Spinfishers that could use a coat...

PennDaddy

Now for the tips. This process can be done and can be simplified. Here are my recommendations.

Bake the reel. Yes that's right. I bought a small electric counter top oven at Walmart. After I had cleaned the main parts of the reel with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, then rubbing alcohol, I placed the sides and frame into the oven separately.  After reading some articles, I decided to do it. I was at 300 degrees and the two side both received 30 minutes a piece. I started with the screw holes up, then after 15 minutes rotated them down with tongs. The frame got 15 minutes per side equaling 1 hour. There was a small place of some kind of oil or grease on the bottom of the oven when done. I wouldn't suggest using the family oven for this.

If building up an area of the reel, really score the area before using the putty. Half of the putty I placed came right off after drying. After rescoring more than before, it adhered better. The putty is where most of the imperfections showed through the paint, assuming it had absorbed some oil or something.

Next time, I would put the reel together, just sides and frame, and fill the middle of the frame with wadded newspaper or pool noodle to avoid over spray and excessive paint layer build up. You would be surprised what a single extra layer of paint or over spray will do to the fitment of these reels.

To avoid filling in screw holes, use a small amount of play dough. Excessive paint in the screw holes chipped off upon final assembly taking some nearby paint with it. Assemble the reel, screw it together with just a few screws, play dough in the holes, and then prime and paint and seal.

I wouldn't buy a new reel and try this. This is more a "what have I got to lose" tactic. When I purchased this reel I really didn't care if it looked gnarly as long as it functioned. Then I got the idea to try to reanodize it. The quote I got was 100 dollars to strip it and another 100 to 200 to reanodize it based on a few factors. This was more than I paid for the reel.

Experiment. Try different things. You can always strip it back to where it was before. I did this about 3 times and it was fairly easy using aircraft remover.

Be patient and be prepared for surprises. Things needing sanded or stripped to just a primer and 1 coat later to fit back together.

Watch the humidity and where you are painting. It does affect it. I had it in my garage and put a layer on the left side plate during the wrong time and ended up with a layer of bubbles. Another layer fell victim to outside temps as I had the garage door cracked open for drying and ended with another layer or bubbles.

Wait long enough for the paint to be completely dry. I was impatient.

If you can't wait like me, take off your wedding ring. When tightening down, a quick slip will give you a nice little chip or scratch if the paint hasn't completely set.

If you have some experience with paint you can do this. I will update on the paint durability after trips. It may not be frequent as this will be a deep drop/ kite bait/ sword reel. On my side of the state, that's a 80 plus mile run. 

Now get out there and paint and post some pics!!

PennDaddy

Quote from: thorhammer on May 23, 2017, 11:59:19 AM
Nice work! That looks like a military grade stealth winch.  I've done a bit of same here and there, but just to flush out a spool or something internal. Let us know how this paint holds up. I, and many others, have Spinfishers that could use a coat...

Thanks! I used 2 different matte gray colors and a matte black for the military/ stealth look. I may end up putting an A-10 sticker on the side. Something along these lines...


The graphics portion anyways.


thorhammer

The Warthog. no nonsense and deadly. very appropriate.

PennDaddy

#37
Mounted on my rod awaiting line..







handi2

I have to respectfully ask. How many dollars do you have in the reel now?

Keith
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

Dominick

Congratulations it looks great.  I hope it will hold up.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

swoffer

Love the look .

Maybe now a retro all glass rod , rebuilt in the same colors ?

PennDaddy

#41
Thank you. Not including the backup bearings I bought and didn't use, rod or reel cover, I have a rounded up total of 330 dollars (US). I had all of the tools and other things like Cal's drag grease and the marine grease.

I have definitely considered redoing an old rod in the same colors as there is several rod building places around. 1 of them is a class in which you build your own rod with help.

I will post updates as I fish it as to the durability of the paint finish.

SumthinFishy

hi, wanted to ask what tool you used to remove the hidden bridge screws. im working on a 80 stw and cant get the hidden bridge screws removed, on parts diagram, they look like the yare flat head screws, but when i peer down the hole with a flashlight, i dont see the slot. and they look like hex heads. i tried every size hex head bit and none seem to grab the screw, so im not sure if they are are stripped or possibly not the originals. thanks for all help.

Tightlines667

Quote from: SumthinFishy on June 06, 2017, 12:47:29 AM
hi, wanted to ask what tool you used to remove the hidden bridge screws. im working on a 80 stw and cant get the hidden bridge screws removed, on parts diagram, they look like the yare flat head screws, but when i peer down the hole with a flashlight, i dont see the slot. and they look like hex heads. i tried every size hex head bit and none seem to grab the screw, so im not sure if they are are stripped or possibly not the originals. thanks for all help.

They are typically flat heads but may be torq heads.

John
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.

PennDaddy

#44
Quote from: SumthinFishy on June 06, 2017, 12:47:29 AM
hi, wanted to ask what tool you used to remove the hidden bridge screws. im working on a 80 stw and cant get the hidden bridge screws removed, on parts diagram, they look like the yare flat head screws, but when i peer down the hole with a flashlight, i dont see the slot. and they look like hex heads. i tried every size hex head bit and none seem to grab the screw, so im not sure if they are are stripped or possibly not the originals. thanks for all help.

By hidden bridge screws I assume you mean the ones underneath the Bridge(#3) on the inside of the reel.



These  screws are not recessed and are almost always flat head screws.

If you are talking about the screws under the quadrant ring on the outside of the reel.



Those screws above can be flat or torn head. I received a torn head replacement screw from Scotts for that area, and it is a size 15 torn head.

If that doesn't work you will have to drill it out. You should only have to drill a little ways down and then you can pop off the side plate and use vice grips to remove the screw portion that remains.

If you are talking of another screw let me know what the number is on the diagram and I'll try to help.