Loose Shimano drive shaft post

Started by wfjord, May 18, 2017, 06:03:43 AM

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oc1

Do you think that when they pressed it on at the factory a tapered punch-like thing was driven into the hole to expand the base of the shaft?  The way it is countersunk into the aluminum plate, there isn't much aluminum plate left to grab on to.
-steve

foakes

If it were me, I would see if I could get 2 or 3 SS self-tapper screws with a 1/8" thread OD -- 1/4" long with a pan head.

Fasten the plate securely in a wood-faced vise -- tight but not to the point of distorting the plate.

Hand drill with a variable speed drill, 1/8" sharp bit, a hole 3/8" -- steady, firm, slowly, and squarely.  Let the bit do the work -- keep it square and straight -- slow speed.

Blow out the filings -- then fasten the screw in place until the head is flat on the plate.  If you overtighten it -- the head will snap off -- then you are dead.  So just snug it up.  Back it out, clean up the hole again -- couple drops of the strong Loctite -- reinsert another new screw -- should be good to go after drying.

This is a "poor man's method" of fastening -- which I have used successfully many times.

A 1/8" tap and a T-bar could also be purchased fairly cheaply -- in this case, match the threads on the tap to a machine screw of SS.

Just my thoughts...

Best,

Fred
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wfjord

#17
Quote from: foakes on May 20, 2017, 03:55:00 PM
If it were me, I would see if I could get 2 or 3 SS self-tapper screws with a 1/8" thread OD -- 1/4" long with a pan head.
Fasten the plate securely in a wood-faced vise -- tight but not to the point of distorting the plate.
Hand drill with a variable speed drill, 1/8" sharp bit, a hole 3/8" -- steady, firm, slowly, and squarely.  Let the bit do the work -- keep it square and straight -- slow speed.
Blow out the filings -- then fasten the screw in place until the head is flat on the plate.  If you overtighten it -- the head will snap off -- then you are dead.  So just snug it up.  Back it out, clean up the hole again -- couple drops of the strong Loctite -- reinsert another new screw -- should be good to go after drying.
This is a "poor man's method" of fastening -- which I have used successfully many times.
A 1/8" tap and a T-bar could also be purchased fairly cheaply -- in this case, match the threads on the tap to a machine screw of SS.
Just my thoughts...
Best,

Fred

Fred --Thank you! I was just wondering about the details of those very points you explained there! Fortunately I have a wood-faced vice. I hadn't made my trip to the hardware store yet until I got the details worked out. Hope to do that today. Will report on my progress or success...

Quote from: oc1 on May 20, 2017, 07:28:39 AM
Do you think that when they pressed it on at the factory a tapered punch-like thing was driven into the hole to expand the base of the shaft?  The way it is countersunk into the aluminum plate, there isn't much aluminum plate left to grab on to.
-steve

Steve, that would be my guess. The base of the shaft on all three of the 250SGs I have look the same with a rounded indention in the center where I assume the tip of the punch went in and the excess grounded off flat. Perhaps they had slightly pre-recessed the area of the plate around the shaft hole before punching it to make it look cleaner. I'd think the thinner plate thickness there might increase the chance of the post coming loose if it got bumped or, uh...

in this case, when I acquired the reel and opened it up it looked pretty bad inside and the drive shaft wouldn't come off the shaft post. Took a lot of time and effort to remove it from the post, so there's a decent chance I caused the problem at hand. I probably should've sought advice here before doing that. Hindsight...

I did get it cleaned up and lubed before discovering the problem and it's otherwise a really nice casting old Bantam.


wfjord

Well, Lowes had none of the hardware I needed. Looks like I'll have to wait until I can get to an Ace or True Value store next week.

gstours

  After watching and reading you reels problem, I am willing to offer my FREE services. :o  Send the bridge to me and i,ll do my best to fix it.  As I have  the time and tools ..... I will learn something  and what do you have to lose?  Postage would be less than a drill, tap, vice, etc.
   pm. me a reply ok?    Ive caught and rolled many a steelhead with a Bantam.   :-*

wfjord

#20
Thanks, Gstours, for your kind and generous offer, and your suggestions and info in our PM conversations.

And thank you, Fred, for your suggestions and info. I was thinking that would be the route to take.


For better or worse, here's an update on the status of my bridge plate drive post project.

I checked out several local hardware stores (with bridge plate in hand). This will require a smaller screw than I thought. As it turns out, the flat head stainless steel machine screws that were small enough to do the job had a head that was too small to cover the area necessary to anchor the shaft post. Regarding ss sheet metal screws, no tap was available and any screws that were self tapping were way too big.

I encountered a guy browsing the bolt & screw aisle in the hardware store who worked in a machine shop and got his thoughts on the project. He said I'd strip the head and/or threads of any stainless steel screws that small trying to screw them into a hole drilled into hardened stainless steel.
He recommended I either get the bottom of the post spot-welded or use some JB Weld on it. Claimed JB Weld was really good stuff and he used it on his Harley.

I stopped by an auto supply store and picked up some JB Weld MarineWeld (not the quick dry). It's strength rating is advertised as 3690 PSI and claims to be chemical and petroleum resistant. The guy at the checkout counter (a drag racer) swore by it claiming he'd put together a race car engine with JB Weld for a race---the engine blew up, but most of the glued parts stayed together.

So... I'm going to give the JB Weld a try and see what happens. If it doesn't work I can always sand or grind it off, or better yet, get another set plate.

Examining that drive shaft post, the post is loose enough to make about a 1/4 turn and has some wobble in the middle of its turn. Checking its squareness to the set plate at various positions, the post is most squared to the set plate at the point where it snugs up at the clockwise end of its turn.

I'm going to cut some notches into the bottom of both, the post and set plate, with the Dremel and apply the JB Weld to keep it from moving. I'll post a report on its failure or success.



gstours

  Thanks for the updates,  did your JB Weld solve the problem? :(  Its a pretty good thickened epoxy.  Its been around a long time,  but some folks sneer at it.  Ive had mixed results.  It always depends on the application.  and sometimes you know you have limited options and its worth a try?     Kee :-\p your line tight as always.

Lunker Larry

I've always found that JB Weld had to have some volume to it for strength. Small amounts tend to break apart.
You know that moment when your steak is on the grill and you can already feel your mouth watering.
Do vegans feel the same when mowing the lawn?

wfjord

The JB Weld is working really well and is holding the post solid and hard. There's not enough pressure or vibration on the post to move it or break it apart the epoxy. This is a light reel. I was running 10lb test on it tops and keep the drag on those reels set pretty light.

But it turns out the main problem was not stabilizing the post. I tried my best to make sure the post was as square as possible to the plate as I could get it, checked it many times from every angle I could with a square I'd rigged just for it, but the main & pinion gears are still making some grinding noise when I crank it no matter how much grease is on it. It casts beautifully, but I can't tolerate gear noise. I'm tired of messing with it so I'll either get a used set plate for it or use it as a parts reel if I have any problems with my other two BMP 250SGs, which are fine reels.

I did use the JB Weld on a small break in the frame of an old Hardy LRH Lightweight fly reel and so far it seems to be the best fix for that reel that I've found.

RowdyW

You might want to try lapping the gears in with valve grinding compound. It's available at any auto parts store. Just be sure to clean it all off real good when you are done.        Rudy

wfjord

How long do you leave it on the gears, until the noise stops? How fast does valve grinding compound work? Is there a down side to this?