DAM Quick 110 and 220 re-grease question

[CaptDipship]

Hello all,

I was wondering on how to clean these reels and re-grease them. They were my reels from when I was a kid, haven't used them in 20 or so years. My father passed away last year and I recently just picked fishing back up. I switched them from left hand retrieve to right hand retrieve, spinning with the left hand is right hand retrieve? My dad was left handed and was teaching me left handed, I'm right handed. I have little knowledge on the last time they were even maintained. My guess would be some time in the early to mid 90's. Also, can anyone tell me why when I put the 220 in "forward" retrieve righty, if that's the correct term, it clunks in the same spot every time time I reel? It doesn't do it when you put it in reverse but it did make this clunk before I switched it over. I'd like to get both of these reels back up and running, nothing sounds better than a DAM quick reel in my opinion. Plus I'd think it would be cool to use my reels from when I was a kid.



Thank you.

[thorhammer]

Fred Oakes will be along directly; he is the DAM guru. I believe what you are hearing is the  anti-reverse engaging. Look at the on-off switch going up and down.

[Midway Tommy]

Until Fred shows up you can go through this tutorial and thread to pick up enough ideas to get you started. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12620.msg124350#msg124350 A lot of the photos are missing but the text should get you what you need to know if you have the reels opened up. The 110 & 220 procedures won't be that much different.

If you are right handed you want to cast with your right hand and reel with your left., vice-versa if you are left handed.

[CaptDipship]

Fred Oakes will be along directly; he is the DAM guru. I believe what you are hearing is the  anti-reverse engaging. Look at the on-off switch going up and down.

Hopefully he knows what it is. no clue if it's an issue or maybe I'm just over thinking it. It's odd because it only has this cluck sound and feeling in a certain spot. Maybe it's just the grease messing with it?

Until Fred shows up you can go through this tutorial and thread to pick up enough ideas to get you started. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12620.msg124350#msg124350 A lot of the photos are missing but the text should get you what you need to know if you have the reels opened up. The 110 & 220 procedures won't be that much different.

If you are right handed you want to cast with your right hand and reel with your left., vice-versa if you are left handed.

Oh okay, I'll have to check it out. I'm more so of a visual tutorial kind of person. I guess it's the lack of skills is the reason why I need visual instructions. I figured as much with what hand needed to do what. I'm just hoping I didn't do anything wrong when I switched them over.

Thank you guys for responding.

[foakes]

Hi Capt --

There are many ways to remedy a problem on any reel -- if it were on my bench -- this is what I would do -- everyone may have a different approach...

Initially, try to determine where the catch is --

Remove the spool -- see if there is still a catch -- could be as simple as a trip lever spring touching the underside of the spool, a missing spool spacer, or the underside of the spool touching on the spring loaded click cog.

If not these -- move inside the body.  Before that, put the A/R lever in the middle neutral position -- see if there is still a catch.  

If still a catch, then it could be the copper trip ring ramp under the rotor that is attached with (3) screws -- bent out of even positioning.  Could also be the trip lever bent slightly too far down towards the copper ramp up ring.

If still a catch -- could be a burr on the main gear -- although this is unlikely -- they are so HD tough.

Also check the A/R cog that interacts with the 8 holes in the main gear -- it could be rough.

In this order -- one of these will most likely be your culprit.  

__________________________________________________________________________________

Just a process of elimination based on how these reels should operate -- and are put together.

After you fix the issue -- a full cleaning is in order.  The interior and all parts should be as clean, burnished, and smooth as the parts that show, IMO.  This will insure that you can use this reel for 12 trips a year, for 3 years, and just do a touch up service in 36 months.

The process for me, involves a complete dissasemble of all parts -- evacuation and cleaning of all of the old grease, oil, and grime -- ultrasonic cleaning of all parts with Lacquer Thinner, Simple Green, and Purple Degreaser.  The painted parts go into a 50/50 mix of SG & water for no more than 5 minutes -- rinse and allow to dry.  Plastic parts only in Dawn Dish soap and hot water.  All other parts in LT or Purple.

All parts get inspected for wear or issues -- are burnished with "0000" Steel Wool, all sleeves inside burnished with SW, rinse again in the US cleaner, water, dry, and ready for assembly.

First assemble the spool, then the rotor, then the crank and A/R assembly, then the gears and body,  then these four completed components will go together quickly and easily.

Grease I use is Marine Grade Yamalube, oil is synthetic (generally TSI321 or WRL191S).

If used in fresh water, a mix of oil and grease is appropriate for the main bearing.

There are other techniques that others may use very successfully -- but since I do perhaps a 100+ of these a year for friends and members -- this will cure 99% of issues from either an ebay reel, yard sale reel, or a reel that has not been used for decades -- and bring it back to better than new condition -- plus be very capable.

Let us know if we can help further -- and let us know your progress.

Best,

Fred

[CaptDipship]

Hi Capt --

There are many ways to remedy a problem on any reel -- if it were on my bench -- this is what I would do -- everyone may have a different approach...

Initially, try to determine where the catch is --

Remove the spool -- see if there is still a catch -- could be as simple as a trip lever spring touching the underside of the spool, a missing spool spacer, or the underside of the spool touching on the spring loaded click cog.

If not these -- move inside the body.  Before that, put the A/R lever in the middle neutral position -- see if there is still a catch. 

If still a catch, then it could be the copper trip ring ramp under the rotor that is attached with (3) screws -- bent out of even positioning.  Could also be the trip lever bent slightly too far down towards the copper ramp up ring.

If still a catch -- could be a burr on the main gear -- although this is unlikely -- they are so HD tough.

Also check the A/R cog that interacts with the 8 holes in the main gear -- it could be rough.

In this order -- one of these will most likely be your culprit. 

__________________________________________________________________________________

Just a process of elimination based on how these reels should operate -- and are put together.

After you fix the issue -- a full cleaning is in order.  The interior and all parts should be as clean, burnished, and smooth as the parts that show, IMO.  This will insure that you can use this reel for 12 trips a year, for 3 years, and just do a touch up service in 36 months.

The process for me, involves a complete dissasemble of all parts -- evacuation and cleaning of all of the old grease, oil, and grime -- ultrasonic cleaning of all parts with Lacquer Thinner, Simple Green, and Purple Degreaser.  The painted parts go into a 50/50 mix of SG & water for no more than 5 minutes -- rinse and allow to dry.  Plastic parts only in Dawn Dish soap and hot water.  All other parts in LT or Purple.

All parts get inspected for wear or issues -- are burnished with "0000" Steel Wool, all sleeves inside burnished with SW, rinse again in the US cleaner, water, dry, and ready for assembly.

First assemble the spool, then the rotor, then the crank and A/R assembly, then the gears and body,  then these four completed components will go together quickly and easily.

Grease I use is Marine Grade Yamalube, oil is synthetic (generally TSI321 or WRL191S).

If used in fresh water, a mix of oil and grease is appropriate for the main bearing.

There are other techniques that others may use very successfully -- but since I do perhaps a 100+ of these a year for friends and members -- this will cure 99% of issues from either an ebay reel, yard sale reel, or a reel that has not been used for decades -- and bring it back to better than new condition -- plus be very capable.

Let us know if we can help further -- and let us know your progress.

Best,

Fred

Thank you for your reply Fred. So I put the A/R lever in the neutral position on the 110 and the 220, no more catch on either reels. Catch is only there (for both reels) when its in the forward position with the reel lever on the left side. Sorry that I know little to nothing about what you're talking about, but I want to learn. Should I break these reels down and attempt to clean them? I'm willing to learn, like I said, but I don't know if these are the reels that I should practice on since they mean a lot to me. You say you service reels for members, would you be willing to do mine? No clue how much you charge but I really want to start using these reels again.

Thank you,

Robert

[foakes]

Sounds like an internal A/R issue -- possibly a gouge or burr in the backside of the gear, bad spring, or? -- we will need to check it out, Capt. --

Complete service, cleaning, tune, new grease and oil -- runs $18 + parts.

Typical parts may be a bail spring, trip lever, a spring or two, new drag, etc..

Seldom does a DQ reel run over $30 for a complete, including parts -- unless you want a lot of cosmetic parts replaced.

If this is something you want to do -- just PM me, and I will give you mailing info.

The 110s are a little more problematic than the 220 --  however, with a little experience --  both are somewhat similar.

It would be a good idea for me to do a step by step tutorial on the site with pics -- so next time, you can do your own reels, if you wish.

Best,

Fred