hope this is the right place for my first post to say hello

[happyhooker]

One of the most attractive spinning reels ever, and yours does due credit to the breed.

Frank

[joesan]

Just a bit of background.
First, sometimes my memory tells me stuff that I want to believe, and not what really happened, but I grew up in Worcester, MA and most of my trout fishing was in small streams, called rivers back in central MA and we floated worms for trout or went LM bass fishing in ponds with spinners or poppers with fly rods and pickerel with different sorts of spinning tackle.
There was a store where yo could buy just about anything called SPAGS, and almost all of my tackle came from this store. I think my Mitchell was about $9 and it came with two spools and they filled one with 4lb test and the other with 6lb test mono. double the price of many other reels, but I was an avid reader of FUR FISH GAME, Outdoor Life, Sports Afield, etc. and I read about this reel, and just had to have one. Now $9 was about what I made on my paper route in three weeks. What I still marvel at is this reel has no bearings for the shaft, yet it is smoooooooooth, with no noticeable wear. I would like to say this is an American product, but mine is made in France. So many of you have mentioned what a fine reel this is, and was glad with your help to bring it back to life.
tight lines
Joe

[Midway Tommy]

funny, i'm working on one of these right now!

OMG!    I thought you threw spinners in the bone pile!   

[alantani]

yeah, usually.  a guy came over with an old 308 and an even older 300.  the 300 was in pieces and was missing a drag spring.  the guys said that these belonged to his grandfather and that he and his son wanted to fish with them.  couldn't say no.   

[swill88]

yeah, usually.  a guy came over with an old 308 and an even older 300.  the 300 was in pieces and was missing a drag spring.  the guys said that these belonged to his grandfather and that he and his son wanted to fish with them.  couldn't say no.   

Alan, I guarantee you that between me and Fred we have all the parts you may need.

[joesan]

Now I realize why I had disassembled my Mitchel many years ago...

After reassembling the 300 with Fred and Tommy's help, I took it out for a little test and sure enough, the bail spring must be bad as the bail needs some help to get back to the head.

Any ideas where I can get a new one?

Joe

[foakes]

Shoot me your full name and mailing address again, Joe --

And I will get one out to you.

But also remember, it may also be a tweaked or worn and gouged bail.

Many times, it just takes slightly bending of the bail to get it square and freely snapping when under spring pressure.

Best,

Fred

[Tiddlerbasher]

You are in such good hands

[Midway Tommy]

Shoot me your full name and mailing address again, Joe --

And I will get one out to you.

But also remember, it may also be a tweaked or worn and gouged bail.

Many times, it just takes slightly bending of the bail to get it square and freely snapping when under spring pressure.

Best,

Fred

Also, forgo the grease if you greased it. In my experience all grease in a bail spring cavity does is slow the spring action down and collect dirt, which slows the return down even more. At the very most, light synthetic oil, but I prefer Armor All. It never gets gunky so all that's ever needed is to add another squirt, spin the rotor and work the bail a couple of times and you're good to go. I use Armor All as a lubricant for a lot of things I don't want dirty, greasy or oily. It excels on things like drawer glides, sliding door and window tracks, hinges, key slots, etc. I keep a small pump bottle in my boat  at arms reach, in a cubby right next to my batteries.

[joesan]

Is there a way to check the bail for correct lineup?

Here are two pics
one is bail closed
second is where bail will often stop when retrieving line

Pics 3 & 4 are the spring and bail on their own. Don't know if that helps

I can manually move the bail to about 70 degrees and it stays there. seems that it should always snap back when it is moved more than 45 degrees  from closed.

Is there a specific picture I can take to show if the problem is with the bail?

Once again Fred, thanks for all your help

Tommy, I only use grease on gears. I clean as Fred suggested. As you can see it the pics, no grease in the bail area. I always did a wash with simple green for my guns, but with Freds warning, I only use spirits and Dawn. Everything else gets a light lube of Safariland Break Free CLP. I've been using it for years on guns (except for M1 Garand unless you want it on your face). Like you, when you find something that works, stick with it.

Tiddlerbasher, you certainly have that right. And gentle and guiding they are!

Joe
PS- I also sent you a PM with my info Fred

[Crow]

I saw you mention "Fur, Fish & Game"..........that's where I learned most of my "habits", as well !

[Midway Tommy]

Is there a way to check the bail for correct lineup?

The older Mitchells are a little more difficult because the bail & bail plate are one piece. The main thing to look for is that the plate isn't twisted or bent and that it lines up and moves freely sitting at rest without the off side tightened down. The least little twist can affect the bail spring action. If everything lines up correctly then the spring may be weak. If things aren't lined up correctly a new bail spring will eventually, also, slow down. Also, check the edges of the bail plate and trip lever to make sure they ride smoothly against each other and check to make sure the trip lever spring isn't weak. Lightly file or smooth the edge if there are any nicks but don't file too much or the plating will be compromised.   

[joesan]

Tommy, that was a good test and it seems to be fine. Things line up pretty good, but I need to put tension on the other side of the bail in order to screw it back on. Does it need to line up with no tension on it? With the bail plate side connected and the other side loose, it sits about 1/4 inch away from the head. It doesn't take much pressure to get it on.

[Midway Tommy]

Without the bail spring installed the bail should fit nicely against the fittings on the sides of the rotor. You shouldn't have to spread the bail nor squeeze the bail to get them to lay properly. The bail plate should lay flat against the spring recess lip and the opposite side should line up perfectly with the screw hole. Make sure the plate is not twisted. When you have the bail fitting properly, once you install the spring you will have to spread the bail just a little to get it into position over the spring bend and to get it in place to tighten the screws. At that point there shouldn't be any bind or friction for the bail to have to fight.

[joesan]

Tommy, that makes sense. Fred is sending me a spring and when I get it I feel good about making it come together. I wil have to adjust my bail to get it right. Fred told me the same thing.I just didn't know how to do it.
Don't know what I would have done without you guys help.