Shakespeare 2200CK 040 Rebuild (with schematics for all 2200CK models)

[Ruffy]

Hi all,
First rebuild post so please be gentle ha ha! I am going to start this thread with a bit of nostalgia, when I was growing up my dad had three spinning reels, all Shakespeare 2200CKs. My brother and I always fished with an 040 while my dad had a larger model, my brother and I remember it being an 070 but it seems there was never such a model, just an 060 and 080. I am not sure why we both remember it being that model, was there a similar 070 that anyone knows of? These reels were all we fished with from the moment we could hold a rod (dad started us out early!) until I got a baitrunner 3500B for my 13th birthday, and we caught a lot of fish with them. As an adult I have always be on the look out for one, when Fred said he had one NOS I knew that I had to have it! It came in the post two days ago, today I tore it down, regreased it and am getting it ready to fish! First off, here is the scan of the paperwork that came with it.

[Ruffy]

Here is our reel! First things first, remove the spool by undoing the drag knob all the way. Note there are two red washers that sit on the spool shaft in between the clicker and the spool, when I removed the spool one stayed on the shaft and one stuck to the spool. They are marginally different sizes, one is 4 x 13 x 0.5mm, the second is slightly thicker. Remove the handle by holding the rotor and winding the handle backwards all the way and remove the blanking cap from the other side of the reel. Then disassemble the spool by taking out the drag washer retaining ring and remove the washers. The OEM washers are a felt material, 4 x 16.5 x 1 mm. I haven't looked at Dawn's website but I will be ordering enough for this reel and the spare spool I got. Also take the clicker out, regrease and replace. Just pay attention to the layout of the spring, its rather straight forward.

[Ruffy]

Next up, back out the three side plate screws on the LH plate. They are all the same size so no need to worry about mixing them up. Once you have the side plate off, off can come the oscillation ring, followed by the main gear. At this point note the orientation of the sprung dog.

[Ruffy]

From here the main shaft can come out. Next, take a 12mm socket and remove the nut and spring washer holding the rotor to the pinion. NOTE THIS IS A LEFT HAND THREAD. Next I took out the one screw holding the dog and removed the dog assembly before taking out the three screws on the pinion bearing retainer.

[Ruffy]

Once the pinion bearing retainer is off the retainer and bearing can come off. The pinion can also be removed however due to the dog on the pinion shaft it has to be pushed back through and out the body. From here I took the plastic clip off the main gear so I could grease everything. I've taken a photo of it, please note the way the to little dogs on the plastic are orientated, the dog closest to the gap goes towards the end of the main gear shaft. At this point I started greasing and reassembling the body. I did not remove the anti-reverse switch as it involved a small c-clip and I didn't want to lose it, I just greased in and around everything with a brush. The pinion bearing in this reel is 8 x 16 x 5 mm.

[Ruffy]

Now the bearing retainer with trip ring can go back on and the dog can go back in. The reason I have time to do this today is my 5 year old daughter is at home sick. At this point she peeled herself off the couch and joined me, she wanted to be the photographer for all of 2 minutes before retreating to the comfort of the couch and her blanket.

[Ruffy]

At this point I put the body down and tackled the rotor. First, undo the screw which goes through the bail roller. Note the orientation of the roller itself, it is assymetrical and has the larger flange at the end where it goes into the bail arm. There is also a plastic bushing which the roller rides on, this was stuck to the roller shaft and took some very gentle prying to get off. It is a very delicate piece and if it were gummed on there any better I would have left it there for fear of breaking it when trying to remove it. These reels are nearly 40 years old, getting parts may be difficult... Also undo the large screw on the other side of the bail and you can remove the entire bail. From here I tackled the non-roller side of the rotor. Take out the one screw and remove the aluminium cover plate. You will see a metal plate which runs down under the rotor to activate the trip when you turn the handle.

[Ruffy]

At this point I took the screw out of that metal rotor trip and tried to remove it. But... The spring arrangement and how it is in there makes it an absolute pig to remove. I gave up as I realised I could grease everything with a brush anyway, as well as greasing the screw and replacing it. Reverse your order and reassemble the newly greased non-roller side of the rotor before turning your attention to the roller side of the rotor. Undo the large screw holding the bail arm, remove the bail arm, remove the cover and grease the bail spring. Note there is a small chrome stopper with a spring underneath that sits in a circular recess. This is the button you depress when you want to fold down the bail for storage. It just slides out and can be regreased before being popped back in. At this point I completely reassembled the rotor and bail with grease everywhere except for the roller itself, make sure this is well oiled and keep plenty of oil up to it between fishing trips. Once the rotor is done it can be screwed onto the body over the pinion. Not the order goes body-rotor-spring washer-nut and that it is a left hand thread!

[Ruffy]

On the home straight now! From here the main shaft, once oiled, can be slid through the pinion. The main gear can be slid back in and then the oscillation ring can be placed on the main gear with the pin through the hole in the main shaft. At this point the LH side plate can be greased and placed on, installing the three greased screws. Screw in the handle, the non-handle side blanking cap, install the spool and drag knob and you are done! I've waxed the spool and greased the underneath; all I need now is some carbontex and to spool this bad boy up and I am ready to fish! I cannot believe I was able to get one of these reels in the condition this is in, thanks again Fred!

Lastly, take a photo of the finished job with your favourite knife, just for Daron! This is the CRKT Kit Carson special I bought from a yankee shop while in the 'ghan. I've had a few different brands of knifes over the years and this has by far lasted the best. Main thing for me is corrosion resistance, I've had a lot of knifes rust on me while living in the tropics. The metal used in this knife is far superior to anything else I've had and holds a lovely edge!

[foakes]

Nice tutorial, Andrew --

There were two 070 -- one front drag, one rear.

Biggest one I have currently is a 050.

Although I have many 060 & 080 spools -- no reel to match unless it is out in the storage.

Here is a nice little Sigma Whisker Titan -- NIB.  A 42/35.

Has a quick bail.

A really solid little reel that is balanced perfectly, and performs with flawless ease.  The wood knob is unusual, and a nice touch, IMO.

You really seem to know what you are about when it comes to servicing reels -- nice job!

Best,

Fred

[Ruffy]

There you go Fred! Do you know if there was much difference between the 2200 and 2200CK models then? I vividly remember dads reel being a front drag 070 like the one in your photo, I am not going crazy!

Cheers,
Andrew

[foakes]

At the end of the 70's (about 1977)  Shakespeare discontinued the 2 letter dating system that was their trademark code for decades.

If you look at an old Shakes baitcaster, spinning, spincast reel, even Wonderods -- you will see two letters.

These correspond with a chart grid that will give you the year of manufacture.

This Sigma series was a re-entry back into the market of quality spinning reels.  Metal bodies, decent gears and drive system, solid operators.  

There were various sizes in this series, ranging from a tiny 025 up to the large 080.

Shakes was proud of this reel, and their history -- so just for this year (1981) -- the CK was used -- which was correct according to the nostalgic and historical dating chart.

Shakespeare Reel Series Dating Formula

There were other reels in the day that were higher quality -- Penns, Cardinals, Quicks, etc..

But the price point of the Sigmas was approximately 40% of a comparable Penn.

So the Sigmas sold like hotcakes.

Eventually the CK was eliminated, rear drags were introduced, graphite bodies instead of metal -- but they are all a very decent and capable reel series.

Best,

Fred

[Ruffy]

Thanks for that information Fred! Given that my old man was fishing with an 070 it sounds like we may have had the later 2200 models, not a 2200CK then. I am chuffed with how this reel has turned out, it even has this whirring sound which I remember as a kid. Turns out it is the sound of the anti-reverse dog against the pinion. I've ordered some No. 2 sized carbontex washers from Dawn, they should be a straight fit. I'll post a pic when they come in!

Cheers,
Andrew

[foakes]

These are excellent reels, Andrew --

I mentioned that there were a few other reels that were better, IMO --

However, that is only because the drive system in a Sigma is not quite as strong as the worm gear drive system in the more expensive reels like Penn, Cardinal, and Quick.  However, having worked on hundreds of Sigmas over the years -- I have never seen a gear set failure.

Having said that, IMO, the Sigmas particularly, have found their own place as a reel that has stood the rest of time.

They are well built, capable fishers, good materials, and attractive in design and function.

One of my all time favorites...

Best,

Fred

[happyhooker]

Thanks for putting in the time on this, Ruffy.  Nice looking reel.  Questions: 1) what is the country of manufacture for your reel; 2) on the bail arms, are they metal or plastic (or one of each)?

Frank