Green Spinfisher Questions

[handi2]

When I was doing the collecting I use a Preval Sprayer and a color mix that came from a Fiat car. It was perfect. You couldn't tell a painted reel from a stock reel. Just paint it like the factory did and it comes out right.

The paint was a single stage enamel or erethane I don't remember.

[wfjord]

A company named CFI made rattle cans of green paint call Penn reel green that matched the green 710, 712, 714, & 716. CFI (Custom Finish Incorporated). A very close match for these reels is John Deere tractor green.
The later gold 710 spools will fit the green 710's and avoids problems with the fiberglass spools.
The green reels are the same as the later "Z's". The 700 was replaced by the 704 around 1968.

When I was doing the collecting I use a Preval Sprayer and a color mix that came from a Fiat car. It was perfect. You couldn't tell a painted reel from a stock reel. Just paint it like the factory did and it comes out right.

The paint was a single stage enamel or erethane I don't remember.

Hmm... that's interesting. Did a search and read a 2009 post on the striper forum that the CFI color is called "Fishing Reel Green."  Looking at the CFI website, they seem to primarily paint trucks.

Ultimately, not being a true collector, I think it doesn't matter much if a reel has been re-painted as long as it can be made to work great and looks good and I like it.  Lots of people out there modifying already great reels into something they like better. 

[oc1]

Fred's right about the plastic spools.  They were belittled when they came out because that was not too long after monofilament line started exploding plastic squidder spools.  I never really heard of a Spinfisher plastic spool causing any problem though.  It may be because the plastic is so thick and it may be because there is so much space between the spool and the rotor.  We used to use them for kingfish (king mackerel) and cobia around the near-shore oil rigs.
-steve

[oc1]

If you really want it to be bullet proof just remove the bail.  There is not much left to go wrong.  You could drag it through the mud and keep fishing.  But, maybe people don't do that any more.



716
-steve

[wfjord]

Steve,
Thanks for suggesting that. I've never tried a bailess reel and never actually saw one in person, but I like that idea. Coincidently, I was just looking online at a bailess conversion kit not too long ago.  Haven't really looked closely at removing the bailwire on one of my spinfishers.  Can it be removed from the roller assembly without cutting the wire?

That's a beautiful little 716 between the pretty bonefish & cane.  I just scored a *green 714* a couple days ago on an auction and am pretty excited about it.  I was supposed to be looking for a larger surf caster, but just couldn't resist it... and still surprised I won the auction.  I have two old 714Zs I bought new in the early '80s and they turned out to be my all-around favorite spinning reels.  Since then I've always thought if I got just one green reel it would be a 714.  (It's a good thing you hadn't posted that 716 photo a few days ago. )

[oc1]

The 704 has a bailess (bail-less) conversion kit.  I think Maureen has them.  It is DIY for the rest of the models.  The easy way is to just saw off the bail wire and file down the rough edges.  I made a bailess conversion that did not destroy the bail wire.  It is just a stainless machine screw, a metal sleeve to go under the stock roller, a couple of nuts and washers.

It is actually faster to release and pick up the line without the bail.  To cast, turn the handle forward until the line touches your out-stretched index finger.  Then rotate the handle back a tad as you pick up the line and the roller backs out from under the line.  Picking up the line after casting is even quicker.  Stick out your index finger to catch the line and just start reeling.  

The only thing I do not like about it is fishing with the anti-reverse turned off so I can rotate the handle backward when removing the line from the roller.  Some people say you don't need to turn off the anti-reverse because the dog only hits a ratchet tooth about every quarter turn and you can use that back play to release the line.  But, sometimes that does not work for me and I have to look down at the reel to get the line off the roller.  So I leave the anti-reverse turned off instead.

I'm not really a spinner person though and seldom use them.  A few hours of repetitive casting with a spinner leaves my right hand and wrist sore.  Bait casters are much more comfortable for me.
-steve

[wfjord]

I'll check out my Z spinfishers to see if there's a way to go bailess without cutting the bail wire.  If not, I might could just buy another bail assembly, or at least the critical parts if possible.

I generally prefer baitcasters, also, and for a while I completely quit using spinning gear purely because of the problem of line twist and dislike of using a swivel. I recently started back carrying the 714Z because I needed something for throwing small unweighted swimbaits to schooling stripers and I've been enjoying using it quite a bit --its had a place in my freshwater fishing for most of the past 35 years.

My recent notion of getting a large 1st generation Spinfisher for surf fishing is an idea still under development and some of it I'm needing to rethink.

[oc1]

If you find something to use for a sleeve under the stock line roller you won't need to cut anything and it will be completely reversible.  I think I used a 3-48 machine screw and nuts from the local hardware store.  The inside diameter of the sleeve is just slightly larger than the screw diameter.  The outside diameter of the sleeve is slightly smaller than the bore in the line roller.  The length is such that the line roller will not bind when the screw is tightened on the sleeve and there is not a gap where the line can get behind the roller.  The 714 seems to have the same bail arm and line roller as the 716 so I have the dimensions and can make a kit if you need it.
-steve

[wfjord]

Steve,
Thanks for offering to make a kit for me.  That sounds like a good option. Let me know more details about it; PM me regarding the cost if you like.

I searched some hardware stores today but didn't find any parts that would fit, no 3-48 machine screws either.  I'm going to check Monday or Tuesday with a local tackle shop & Penn dealer where I sometimes find useful parts.  If I went with Penn parts I could probably get by with buying a bail wire assembly, cut the wire off and use the line roller and lock nut I already have, but I think I'd probably prefer to get a new roller and nut and keep the originals stored with the old bail assembly.

Here's the candidate for the bail conversion.  (the bail spring broke when I was taking the bail arm off)




Below is a photo of the bail assemblies on my 712Z on the left and other 714Z. The bail wire on the 712z is like that of the 716   Actually, I guess the differences are a moot point since the critical measurements are the same between the 716, 714, and pretty much the 712.
Whatever kit or parts that are used should be interchangeable between at least three different models.



Below is a photo I found online of a 716:

[oc1]

You can go to Mystic Reel Parts (MysticParts) to get schematics of the various models.  If the part numbers are the same on two different models then they can be interchanged.  If the part numbers are different then watch out.  The height of the bail arm and diameter of the roller are critical to get the correct line lay.  The bail arm on the 714 is 34-716,  The bail arm on the 712 is 34-712.  Different roller numbers too.

https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/714z.pdf

I'll make a conversion for a 716/714 in case you need it and PM to get an address.  Give me a couple of days.
-steve

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[wfjord]

Thanks. I was overly speculative in my last post (a common fault of mine).  I'll pay close attention to the part numbers with anything I order.  I am intrigued by your conversion kit.

[wfjord]

The green 714 arrived; at the least it'll need a replacement spring for the anti-reverse switch and a good cleaning & lube.  I visited my local best tackle shop today --they had all the bail assembly parts.

Since I have no experience using a bailess reel I'll defer to your judgment on this, Steve.  In any event, it won't hurt have a spare bail wire assembly on hand.

[oc1]

Tension and the turning rotor hold the line on the line roller.  It will not fall out unless there is slack line blowing in the wind.  The bail arm is unlikely to move during normal operation, but you will receive a washer to put under or over the bail arm so it can be locked into place.  Some custom kits had a plate that goes in on the opposite side to lock the bail release arm.  It is simpler to just remove the bail release arm.

Here is what you will receive to go with your existing bail arm, bail arm screw and line roller.  The brass sleeve is threaded onto the 40-48 machine screw.  I mistakenly called it 3-48 before, but it is 4-48 size.



To begin, remove the bail screw on the opposite side, the bail arm screw, the bail wire, the bail arm and bail arm spring.  When finished it will look like this.



I don't have a 4-48 lock nut with the plastic insert right now.  They only coast a few cents and would look much better than the two common hex nuts locked together.

Note the brass washer under the bail arm screw.  This lets you lock down the bail arm.  You can put the brass washer under the bail arm instead of on top of the bail arm as it should work both ways.

You do not have to lock down the bail arm as it unlikely to move during normal operation.  The bail arm bumper will prevent it from moving on one direction and the bail arm spring will prevent it from moving in the other direction.  The bail arm bumper determines the precise orientation of the bail arm.  The trouble is, most bumpers have been worn and hammered down by the bail slamming shut.  If the bumper is worn down, the bail arm will lean down just a tad and the line roller will no longer be perpendicular to the spool.  When the roller is no longer perpendicular to the spool, line will ride up on the roller and try to push the roller against the bail arm.  This little bit if extra pressure (line roller pushing on bail arm) is often the reason line rollers no longer roll very well on reels with worn bumpers.  To keep the line roller free, make sure it is oiled and perpendicular to the spool.  Some people obsess about keeping the line roller free, but in actuality is probably makes very little difference.  Line rollers do not prevent the line from twisting, they just keep the twists uniformly spaced.  I guess a two hour fight with a strong fish could make a groove in a completely frozen line roller.  But, they are usually just a little stiff and not completely frozen.



Then remove the push-button spool to reveal the bail release arm and retaining screws.  Remove the screws, the bail release arm and small spring under the bail release arm.



Here are the extra pieces you will put away in case you want to revert to the original.



-steve

[wfjord]

Sounds good.  I'm looking forward to giving it a go.  I'm not worried about the bail arm moving --The bail spring tension alone feels like it would've been plenty to keep it in place (I just put in a new bail spring last night). I got an extra lock nut, too.
Thanks!  I appreciate your help very much, Steve.

Will PM you my mailing address.

[wfjord]

Steve --got the kit you sent.  Looks good.  Haven't had a chance to install it yet---hope to this evening.