Double Dogging TLD's

[Rothmar2]

Sounds like a good project for my tld15. What kinda fabricating tools are needed for working the stainless flat bar?
Gfish

A hacksaw for cutting the SS flatbar, or an angle grinder with the thin 1mm cutting wheels. Files, good quality nickel files. A medium cut for roughing the shape down, and a quality set of needle files for doing the fine finish shaping.
For drilling the holes, use cobalt-moly drills, and slow drill chuck speed (around 250-350rpm for a 3mm drill), plenty of drilling lube, and feed fairly quick, but not too quick that you snap your drills. Stainless work hardens very quickly, it doesn't take too much rubbing for it to harden right up and you will then melt the tip of your drill. You will need a drill press, drilling stainless with a hand drill is a waste of time. You can use HSS drills, but the Co-Mo drills are tougher if you haven't drilled stainless before, and are worth the extra dollars IMO.
If you can do this mod, and shape your own dogs, then you can use these tools to shape many small parts. e.g. think SS clutch levers for Penns, your own cranks etc. You are only limited by your imagination, and willingness to put the time into making them. For my mind, it's worth the effort if at the end you have improved upon what you already have.
Jurelometer has valid points. The only use the reels that I have done these modifications to, are for fishing light line classes. Generally the TLD 5-15's I have done this to are only fishing a max drag of 10lb tops, (6-16lb line class) and there has been no issues with any of the post/dogs so far. Quality slow cure epoxy is a must, 5 minute will only let you down. The keying of the post and the post hole is critical.

[Gfish]

Thanks, Rothmar. Love fabricatin stuff. That's a list with great detail. Gotta think about gettin a drill press. I agree, the TLD's aren't designed for 10+lbs. a drag, with that graphite frame.
Gfish

[boon]

As per an earlier question, can anyone shed some light on why the anti-reverse ratchet has a large smooth section to it? Surely this part just slides backwards, meaning for a section of the handle's arc you have a whole lot of back-play/slop?

[Rothmar2]

As per an earlier question, can anyone shed some light on why the anti-reverse ratchet has a large smooth section to it? Surely this part just slides backwards, meaning for a section of the handle's arc you have a whole lot of back-play/slop?

If you read the first post of this thread carefully, the brass AR ratchet is a "mock up" made by myself to help get alternating dog engagement timing. The "large smooth section" is there because I was lazy, and there was no need to finish filing a complete brass ratchet. It's only a "tool" I made to achieve this. Without it, it's difficult to get the timing you want, because the actual working AR ratchet, would be hidden under drive gear, as its part of the gear/shaft assembly. Does that help?

Edit - Look at Wallace's photo in post #4. You can see the AR cog is integral with gear/driveshaft. With the driveshaft fitted in the side plate, the extra dog will be completely hidden under the gear. If you had taken the time to open the link in the first post of this thread, to another TLD 5 thread I've done, and read that, you would have seen this in the photos posted in that thread. The information is all there, you just needed to have followed it through.

[Nasty Wendy]

As per an earlier question, can anyone shed some light on why the anti-reverse ratchet has a large smooth section to it? Surely this part just slides backwards, meaning for a section of the handle's arc you have a whole lot of back-play/slop?

If you read the first post of this thread carefully, the brass AR ratchet is a "mock up" made by myself to help get alternating dog engagement timing. The "large smooth section" is there because I was lazy, and there was no need to finish filing a complete brass ratchet. It's only a "tool" I made to achieve this. Without it, it's difficult to get the timing you want, because the actual working AR ratchet, would be hidden under drive gear, as its part of the gear/shaft assembly. Does that help?

Edit - Look at Wallace's photo in post #4. You can see the AR cog is integral with gear/driveshaft. With the driveshaft fitted in the side plate, the extra dog will be completely hidden under the gear. If you had taken the time to open the link in the first post of this thread, to another TLD 5 thread I've done, and read that, you would have seen this in the photos posted in that thread. The information is all there, you just needed to have followed it through.

Ah!! I missed that as well.  I was thinking the brass AR ratchet AKA "Dog Catcher" was the stock piece. 

[boon]

As per an earlier question, can anyone shed some light on why the anti-reverse ratchet has a large smooth section to it? Surely this part just slides backwards, meaning for a section of the handle's arc you have a whole lot of back-play/slop?

If you read the first post of this thread carefully, the brass AR ratchet is a "mock up" made by myself to help get alternating dog engagement timing. The "large smooth section" is there because I was lazy, and there was no need to finish filing a complete brass ratchet. It's only a "tool" I made to achieve this. Without it, it's difficult to get the timing you want, because the actual working AR ratchet, would be hidden under drive gear, as its part of the gear/shaft assembly. Does that help?

Edit - Look at Wallace's photo in post #4. You can see the AR cog is integral with gear/driveshaft. With the driveshaft fitted in the side plate, the extra dog will be completely hidden under the gear. If you had taken the time to open the link in the first post of this thread, to another TLD 5 thread I've done, and read that, you would have seen this in the photos posted in that thread. The information is all there, you just needed to have followed it through.

Fair cop, when I looked at Wallace's pic I could have sworn it had the rounded back side too, I guess the brain sees what it is expecting to sometimes.

I'm sure I've seen a ratchet gear in this style before on a reel somewhere, although I can't think of any particular wisdom for it (other than, as you say, test fitting).

Actually I remembered where I've seen it. Daiwa SL30SH - the smooth area isn't as large but it does have an irrregular ratchet gear for some reason.

[Hardy Boy]

here is the pic I PM'd you about

[Rothmar2]

I have rebuilt the original post for this thread, since the photobucket saga, as I know there is a member who may have need for this thread to complete his modification. Such a shame with the passing of Wallace that we may have lost his twist on doing this modification. I feel the way he made the extra dog spring was an improvement on my original post. His pictures were a valuable addition to this thread.
I will attempt to re-build the linked post in this thread ASAP (TLD 5 Modifications) as it contains information relevant to this thread.

[Hardy Boy]

Well we have had a rainy couple of days and I've caught up servicing some reels so I thought that I would give this a go with one of my TLD 15's. Rothmar2 was very kind and sent me a kit to give this a go. It went well but is not as easy as double dogging a penn 113H and 114H. Drilling and gluing the "peg" was not hard esp with the parts provided by R2. Forming the dog went OK and it works well but not finished as professionally as R2 but it holds great. I had a bit of an issue getting the spring right and getting it to fit and clear everything but I got it and it works just fine. I used wire leader for the spring. If you do this you will have to use the fishing line trick to pull the dog over when you put in the gear (see R2's thread). It went together just fine and it now has a much more aggressive sound with the new dog clicking which I like (sounds like my penns). I added two thicker bellevilles  that Alan sent me and now the drag curve is better for my fishing (I did this to my TR 2000 also). Here are a couple of pics . Note the dog looks better in real life than in the picture (same as me  )

[Hardy Boy]

I should have added that the back play in the handle is almost non existent now. What a huge improvement. I will do my other TLD 15 in the future. I would like to do this to the TR 2000 but the side plate is much different (has ridges and is not flat) and thinner so I put that off for now but I will look at it again and see if it looks doable.

Cheers:

Todd

[Rothmar2]

Cool Beans HB! It might just be the photo, but the only issue I could see with your work, is the contact point on the dog with the A/R teeth. It looks like the dog face is not contacting the root of the A/R tooth, you may have to just file the dog contact face just a touch to angle it back a little so the point of the dog gets right into the base of the A/R cog. I had an issue with one of my earlier attempts at this and found the dog could slip up, and thus be in-effective, if it wasn't getting right into that corner. I hope this makes sense?

Also, in the spirit of the Ohana, for those over on your side of the Pacific who would like to attempt this, contact Hardy Boy to get access to the tools I sent him. I did send a couple of extra dog posts, not sure if he has used them all or not. Either way, they are not hard to make, and neither are the dogs. I have since made more fitting tools for myself over here.

[Hardy Boy]

It appears to be strong in my testing but the fitment is not 100% perfect (close but not perfect) so I will give it a touchup file. Thanks again. I will do another reel or two. If some one would like the tools please shoot me a pm.