D.A.M. Quick Finessa intermittently making clicking sound

[festus]

I've had this Finessa several weeks, it's always made a dull muffled clicking sound when turning the crank.  I tore it apart earlier this week, cleaned it up, re-lubed it, then reassembled it.  The clicking sound is still there, but after cranking for a couple minutes it quietens on its own.  It doesn't make this noise when cranking in reverse.

I disassembled it again today and went through it with a fine toothed comb. It's definitely not coming from gears in the housing, it only does this with the rotor installed.  Even after it quietens, as soon as I open and close the bail, the clicking sound returns.

It appears these two bail trip parts may be rubbing after the bail returns.  I have no idea what these parts are called because I can't find a schematic for this particular reel.

Has anyone ever encountered this?  If so, does anyone have any suggestions on fixing it?  It may not be a problem at all, just wondering if any harm could come leaving it as is?

[foakes]

Hi Chester --

Your top arrow is the bail trip screw --

Second arrow below is the bail trip lever --

IF this is where the noise is occuring for sure...

What is possibly happening because something is worn, is that the trip lever is worn at the point it rides against the bail angle lever when in the closed position -- causing it to ride a little too low and barely touch the top of bail trip screw.

There are 3 possible fixes (plus a couple of others) --

Easiest would be to remove a washer under the bail trip screw, if it is still there.

Second would be to just file a Mil or two off of the trip lever -- just enough to clear the trip screw when the bail is in the closed position.

Third is possible, but not recommended -- insert a very thin brass spacer under the rotor.

With these three fixes -- what you are trying to accomplish is just gain one or two Mils of clearance without changing the line lay -- or getting into other more complicated side issues.

As for the schematic, it is very similar to a Finessa 330.

I may have 50 or 60 of these old Finessas-- and there are around 4 variations -- but all are similar.

If you cannot find a schematic for a 330 -- let me know, and I will post one for you.

Let us know how you fare.

Best,

Fred

[festus]

What is possibly happening because something is worn, is that the trip lever is worn at the point it rides against the bail angle lever when in the closed position -- causing it to ride a little too low and barely touch the top of bail trip screw.

There are 3 possible fixes (plus a couple of others) --

Easiest would be to remove a washer under the bail trip screw, if it is still there.

Second would be to just file a Mil or two off of the trip lever -- just enough to clear the trip screw when the bail is in the closed position.

Third is possible, but not recommended -- insert a very thin brass spacer under the rotor.

With these three fixes -- what you are trying to accomplish is just gain one or two Mils of clearance without changing the line lay -- or getting into other more complicated side issues.

Best,

Fred

Wow, Fred to the rescue again!

There was no washer under the bail trip screw, so l crossed that remedy off my list.  Then l thought about filing a a tad from the bail trip lever.  Looked all over the garage and apparently one of my stepsons has misplaced my Mill Bastard. So, l found a brass spacer from a junked out Abu 4600 baitcaster and tried fix #3. 

Fred, you said this isn't really recommended but it solved the issue - - the noise has completely stopped. 

ls there any harm that can come from adding this spacer?

[foakes]

Nope, no harm at all, Chester --

I am just always careful when recommending this -- since sometimes folks install a spacer that will interfere with the operation of the bearing.

Sounds like you did good.

Great job!

Best,

Fred

[festus]

I understand that.  At first I tried a thicker washer which interfered with the bail closing. The thinner spacer did the trick.

Apparently this Finessa was used very little or had been well taken care of and setting idle for quite a while.  It has a little rash on the aluminum spool, rear of the rotor and non-handle side plate.  After cleaning the bail spring, screws, and circular spring track the bail return is powerful.

This is a strong, well designed and well built reel.  It's about the same size as my Quantum Snapshot 40 and Okuma Avenger 40.  But comparing those two reels to DAMs is like comparing veteran marines to  Boy Scouts.  I have confidence this reel would handle anything in fresh water at least up to 30 pounds or maybe more.

[festus]

D.A.M. Quicks and Ugly Stiks....

....make good combos.

This 7' White Ugly Catfish rod and 6' medium action Ugly Stik have both been setting idle in the garage a couple years and never been fished.

The Finessa is now on the bigger rod and the 220N on the smaller one.

Hopefully before the weekend I can try them out on the river.  The water was the lowest I've ever seen it from a drought a couple years ago.  Got bluegill, redbreast sunfish, rock bass, smallmouth, largemouth, spotted bass, muskie, suckers, chubs, channel and flathead catfish.

[Wompus Cat]

Here is how I fix these .There is a Rubber peg in the  bail lever that not only quiets  the clank of the Bail Return but also keeps the bail from moving in too close to the Return Ball that is making the clicking noise .
I don't care for shims as usually they are a temporary fix when a little more effort you can make a Lasting Repair that was the intent of the original design . With the proper spacing here your line will lay properly on the spool  too as you wind it. in. Plus you don't have to remove the spool and rotor to fix it right.

[PacRat]

A good source for rubber pegs is to cut a section of O-ring. I ran into a similar problem with some old Daiwas last weekend. I just selected an O-ring that was slightly larger than the hole. I sliced the O-ring at an angle so I had a pointy end to fish through the hole. I pulled it in then cut both ends flat. I'm not sure how long they will last in the UV but they're cheap and easy to replace.

-Mike

[foakes]

The correct part # for these rubber bumpers is 100109.

If anyone needs some —- we got them.

Best, Fred