Boca Bearings? What's your take?

Started by Jim Dempsey, October 23, 2017, 02:07:00 AM

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Dominick

Jim I don't know anything about Abu reels.  I was intrigued by your post that said you cast 1/2 ounce weight a county mile.  Realistically how far would you say you cast that weight?  The reason I am asking is that when I am down in Baja and we hit into a school of tuna that are feeding on the chum thrown from the boat there is a need to cast a sardine as far as 25 yards or so.  We usually resort to throwing the fish itself after stripping line off the reel in a pile at our feet.  While it does work most times we often get tangles.  The Mexican "sardinas" are probably 1 to 2 ounces.  Any advice?  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

Tiddlerbasher

Dominick you could try a spinning reel :)

Dominick

Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on March 28, 2018, 03:44:03 PM
Dominick you could try a spinning reel :)

Yes I know that would work.  I wanted to know about a conventional reel.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

Jim Dempsey

#123
I should be more specific, since I'm quoting mainly the results  achieved with the MGXtreme. As I said; the wind here is unpredictable and buffeting. So; I haven't gotten to actually do a true measurement test on a football field. My "guess" is that stock - I could fairly easily obtain casts between 100-120 feet with a 1/2 oz. lure. After tuning it and polishing; it casts so far that it's hard to approximate, but I'm going to take a stab at 160-180 feet. With the STX's; subtract about 10-20 feet with the same under similar conditions. Being an "old guy"; I have to strain to see where it impacts in the lake at that distance. Partly because of the ripples created by the wind.

As for the Morrum; I've only tested 1, and only 1 afternoon. But; it seemed to equal, or exceed the MGXtreme. This was a Morrum M5600CL using Sufix 832 #30. Same on all of my smaller reels, for that matter. Difference being; the Morrum is such a hearty reel that the retrieve is almost effortless. Obviously, nothing to boast about, but I caught 3-4 1.5 - 2lb. bass, and 1 blue gill. Whereas; the same on an MGX; you can feel the fight. But, bear in mind; the MGXtreme's claim to fame is it's light weight (4.5oz.), and mine are mounted on Villian 8's. The Morrums; on Veritas 8's. The Morrum isn't excessively heavy, by any means, but it's somewhat heavier, and on a slightly heavier rod.

Hopefully; I made some sense... Fighting a deadline today. Fishing on Friday - hopefully.

oc1


Jim Dempsey

#125
Thanks, Steve. You never opine without sending me running for thought, and absorbing your experience /knowledge.

Wow! I don't know how to respond. Great minds think alike? Nah. I don't parallel my intellect with anyone else for fear of embarrassment. It's almost as though one of us were reading the other's article, except I just posted last night, and have never seen or heard of him. I've read bits and pieces from other authors on tuning - but, mainly from YouTube on various methods - thus my conclusion that nearly every one has some merit. Cumulatively; it's a beast. I don't know who's more long winded, - him, or me!

I agree with >95% of what his philosophy is with respect to engineering - again; bearing in mind; I'm an EE, with my major in RF engineering, not a structural, or mechanical engineer. However; I worked as a forensic death investigator in Atlanta for many years before retiring. The reason that's relative with respect to my engineering philosophy is that I had to reconstruct crime scenes, motor vehicle accidents, including occupant injuries and kinetics, industrial accidents, etc. So; I had to have a good working knowledge of "billiard ball" physics.

I can only afford one addiction at a time; and currently; it's Abu Garcia. Everyone has their preference in fishing equipment as much as our tastes vary in women, politics, etc. I can't afford Shimano, Diawa, etc. in addition. There's plenty of room for opinion and favoritism; but no room for arguing over who has the best mouse trap. What works for you, works for you. What works for me, works for me. We all love fishing and tinkering with reels - thus this fantastic forum! I've heard great things about nearly every popular reel / rod combination. God bless you. We should all be content in our own enjoyment. Sadly; I may have bet on the wrong horse. Since Pure Fishing has monopolized on the tackle industry; the engineering is focused on profit margins, with performance and durability taking a back seat. Shimano and Diawa are clearly favorites that I hope to some day be able to explore. Ditto, others. I still have my Dad's Penn-Pier 9 reel that I've restored and love it. Gave it to my son.

The above as a "disclaimer", I disagree with his using sandpaper - particularly of the grit that he references. Close tollerances are paramount to performance, and overall pleasure and functinality of any reel. When you use "sandpaper" that is 600-800 grit; you're essentially using it - in my opinion - as an abrasive that may  wear away of the tight margins that make our reels what they are. I mentioned that I ONLY use them when the tool markings / imperfections require a more rapid removal than simply polishing. And; I monitor this using a calibrated digital caliper and video microscope.. If the striations are too pronounced (from the factory), I have no hesitaion in returing it. If it's a refurb; I pray REAL hard, and do my best. If it's a refurb, and the margins are close to tollerance; I buy a new part, if available. The ONLY exception to this was a 10000i Big Game reel that was a "salvage" reel. I replaced the handle (pitted form salt), side plates, etc. if it was possible. The spool is $55.00, and I already had $120.00 in parts. The spool shaft ends were horrific. The bearings were both goners. I polished (sanded) the shafts carefully; and it works like nothing you've ever seen. With a 10000 spool, and Sufix 832 #85 line; it casts too far to see. Ocean going; obviously. Here; sharky, sharky, sharky...

My position is: If I can avoid harsh abrasives; I will at any cost. 10000 to 13000 take more time from the get go; but have less propensity to damage the intended specs. I's rather spend 2 more hours on a difficult reel and keep the tolerances tight; than grind away blindlessly, and hope for the best. It's a recipe ripe for inconsistency.

I'm happy with my results. I'm proud of my results - especially for a rookie. Your mileage / opinion may vary widely. My reels are good performers for my use. They're also very consistent performers. No real surprises. Makes for a fun fishing day! Ain't that what it's really all about?

handi2

I totally disagree with using that sandpaper he was using. Its too abrasive and would take forever to get sanding marks down to a polished surface. Too much material is removed. The brass used is very soft.
OCD Reel Service & Repair
Gulf Breeze, FL

oc1

I polish the inside of pinions and bushings with a spinning wood stick too, but without the sandpaper cover.  Usually its a bamboo skewer or sometimes a wooden chopstick.  It gets rid of the tarnish and shines up the brass, but there will be some black stain on the wood so something is being removed.  I just hope the wood is soft enough to keep me from doing too much damage.
-steve

Alto Mare

Quote from: oc1 on March 29, 2018, 07:16:39 AM
I polish the inside of pinions and bushings with a spinning wood stick too, but without the sandpaper cover.  Usually its a bamboo skewer or sometimes a wooden chopstick.  It gets rid of the tarnish and shines up the brass, but there will be some black stain on the wood so something is being removed.  I just hope the wood is soft enough to keep me from doing too much damage.
-steve
Most new custom pinions are heat treated, they're very tough to damage, but will need to keep an eye on speed, you don't want them to get too hot.

For bushings I use lollipop sticks, no need to buy lollipops, you could buy just the sticks. ;D

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Newell Nut

I cut the tips off a Qtip then chuck it. Add a little steel wool and Flitz polishing compound.
Dwight

exp2000

Quote from: handi2 on March 29, 2018, 12:24:11 AM
I totally disagree with using that sandpaper he was using. Its too abrasive and would take forever to get sanding marks down to a polished surface. Too much material is removed. The brass used is very soft.

What approach or sandpaper  grade do you recommend?
~

Donnyboat

I use wet & dry starting with 1200, working down to 2500, then polish with a cotton ball with some polish or as Alan said tooth paste, cheers Don.
Don, or donnyboat

Jim Dempsey

Quote from: Alto Mare on March 29, 2018, 11:11:22 AM
Quote from: oc1 on March 29, 2018, 07:16:39 AM
I polish the inside of pinions and bushings with a spinning wood stick too, but without the sandpaper cover.  Usually its a bamboo skewer or sometimes a wooden chopstick.  It gets rid of the tarnish and shines up the brass, but there will be some black stain on the wood so something is being removed.  I just hope the wood is soft enough to keep me from doing too much damage.
-steve
Most new custom pinions are heat treated, they're very tough to damage, but will need to keep an eye on speed, you don't want them to get too hot.

For bushings I use lollipop sticks, no need to buy lollipops, you could buy just the sticks. ;D

Sal

Lollipops go great with intricate work... Another great idea to consider.

A very minor knowledge of metallurgy goes a long way. It's pretty much common sense - even though common sense isn't common these days.

Good idea! Thanks!

Jim Dempsey

Quote from: fishhawk on March 27, 2018, 08:34:27 PM
Boca,hedge-hog, or whatever you choose, theyre all the same with a 30mph+ head wind.

Went fishing in 29 MPH winds this evening... Got skunked, but no birdnest. DAMN! It was cold, too! Even my worms were shivering - in the ice chest.

Never again - at least, not at the local lake.

Pro Reel

I have drawers full of sandpaper strips already cut to size. I do have as low as 800 grit but have only used it on very badly corroded parts. I polish lots of parts in various reels. Generally, if it's metal and not coated, then I probably polish it to some extent. I have 1000 grit up to 7000 grit. I use a paper shredder to cut full sheets into 1/4 inch strips. I then stack several together and use scissors to cut them to about 3/4 inch long strips I call flags. I cut a slit in the end of my wood sticks and put the flag in it then roll it around. Sometimes I start with 1200 or 1500 but often I will start with 2000 or 2500 grit. Finding good wet or dry paper above 2500 to 300 grit is tough. I bought a bunch off ebay last year in 3500, 5000, and 7000. They were small squares cut from a full size sheet and then resold as 4 sheets. LOL. what a scam. If anyone knows of a source for quality paper in higher grits, then please let me know. Using 5000 and then 7000 has allowed me to get a highly polished finish with very little buffing needed. As for areas polished, I seldom touch the inside of pinion gears because most modern reels are designed for the spool shaft to not touch the inside of the pinion during casting. I don't like to take the chance of altering the gear mesh tolerances by altering the inside of the pinion. I clean it and may run a spinning q tip through it at slow speed with brasso but no sanding.