alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Restoring sun bleached plastic or bakelite sideplates?
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
July 18, 2018, 05:54:56 PM *
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Author Topic: Restoring sun bleached plastic or bakelite sideplates?  (Read 774 times)
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Whit
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« on: November 14, 2017, 04:30:49 PM »

Have on old Penn 500 Jigmaster I am restoring.  Looks like about a 70's reel.  The beautiful shiny maroon sideplates, have, alas, in the fulless of time morphed into a sort of dusty brown.  Before AT (this board) I would have rebuilt the reel, then coated the sideplates with some reel oil, and called it good.

I'm thinking there might be a better way to restore at least some of that luster back!

Anyone have a secret recipe?  Extra virgin olive oil?  Armorall? Transmission fluid?

One mistake I have made in the past is to disassemble the reel, then oil the sideplates only to have the plastic expand enough so the rings don't fit any more without some sanding.....

Thanks in advance!   
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1badf350
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-Chris


« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2017, 05:13:38 PM »

I would like to know this as well. But honestly I don't think they will ever again have that "new" shine to them. I wise man named John Elder over at ORCA suggested I give my plates a soak in a product called Ballistol and "maybe" some super fine sandpaper like 4000 grit or more. I just haven't had the time.
I'm also wondering about buffing with automobile wax and a mechanical buffing wheel.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2017, 05:15:06 PM by 1badf350 » Logged

-Chris
RowdyW
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« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2017, 05:22:22 PM »

Try using automobile polishing compound (the white stuff) & a medium polishing wheel. It takes a little time but it will get through the oxidation & into a fresh surface. It works great for me.        Rudy
« Last Edit: November 14, 2017, 05:25:52 PM by RowdyW » Logged
thorhammer
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« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2017, 05:42:08 PM »

Side note on Ballistol: it's a really great product. I use it on all firearms. I use headlight lens restorer and a micro cloth on plates. Buffing wheel would be better as Rudy indicates.
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STRIPER LOU
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« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2017, 06:02:40 PM »

If they're really bad I start with the orange HD rubbing compound and finish with white. With the orange compound, a 1/2" medium hard rotary brush will work well with a dremel at LOW speed and minimal pressure. Finish with white by hand.

The brush will work well on sideplates with a scene too. On this type plate, only white compound at slow speed. The brush will get in to all the cracks and crevices and give you a better shine. Finish with a good automotive or airplane wax.

There's a bunch of different ways to do this and whichever one works for you is the way to go. This is a bit over the top but it does do a nice job.

Almost forgot,  ... for minor blemishes an ink eraser can do wonders.

Post them up when finished,  ..  Lou

Forgot to mention, Simichrome polish is another good one to try. I use at least a couple 8 oz tins here during the year.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2017, 06:45:10 PM by STRIPER LOU » Logged
Eddie K
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« Reply #5 on: January 01, 2018, 11:19:01 PM »

I use Meguires Plast-X.  It will remove material as it is a fine abrasive designed for restoring plastic headlight lenses.  Since it is an abrasive, it will smooth out features so be aware of that fact. 
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Midway Tommy
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2018, 10:44:12 AM »

I use Meguires Plast-X.  It will remove material as it is a fine abrasive designed for restoring plastic headlight lenses.  Since it is an abrasive, it will smooth out features so be aware of that fact.  


I also have good luck starting with Plast-X, but I follow it up with a Plaskolite Cleaner for a brighter and longer lasting shine.

Many say the Novus 3 step approach works well but I have never tried it.

ArmorAll brings back good color & shine but water & elements deteriorate it quickly.  
« Last Edit: January 02, 2018, 10:44:45 AM by Midway Tommy » Logged

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Tightlines666
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« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2018, 12:14:43 PM »

I use Meguires Plast-X.  It will remove material as it is a fine abrasive designed for restoring plastic headlight lenses.  Since it is an abrasive, it will smooth out features so be aware of that fact.  


I also have good luck starting with Plast-X, but I follow it up with a Plaskolite Cleaner for a brighter and longer lasting shine.

Many say the Novus 3 step approach works well but I have never tried it.

ArmorAll brings back good color & shine but water & elements deteriorate it quickly.  

Yep.  I use armorall..quick and easy, but it doesn't last.

John
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Lunker Larry
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« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2018, 02:05:55 PM »

What about that stuff that was advertised a few years back to renew plastic deck furniture, oxidized powder coat, car bumpers, etc. All you had to do was wipe it on. Never used the stuff but has anyone tried it on anything and did it last?
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Swami805
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« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2018, 04:52:30 PM »

I use those armorall wipes, quick and shiny. I got that simichrome too which works well but is expensive.
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RowdyW
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« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2018, 05:32:39 PM »

Armorall and other coverups are just that, coverups. You have to remove the oxidized surface & shine up what's underneth. Sanding is a bit harsh. The best way is to buff off the oxidation with a fine abrasive like automotive compound. If you use auto rubbing compound (the orange stuff) it gets through the oxidation quicker but leaves fine scratches that will have to be polished out with a finer abrasive like polishing compound (the white stuff). Waxing won't remove the oxidation. it only makes it a little shiny for a little while.  There is no miracal wipe on solution. It takes a little elbow grease for long term color & luster.              Rudy
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exp2000
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« Reply #11 on: January 02, 2018, 08:05:17 PM »

There used to be an old product called Glaze-it that was used for restoring faded gel coat on fiberglass hulls.

Just smear it on and wipe it off and even the most weather bleached hull would bounce back with colors shining bright like it was brand new out of the factory.

Haven't seen it around for donkeys years now but I think it was made by the same people that market the "Rainex" product.

Would love to find it again because it worked absolute miracles and one application would last for months!
~
« Last Edit: January 02, 2018, 08:06:39 PM by exp2000 » Logged
RowdyW
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« Reply #12 on: January 02, 2018, 09:00:05 PM »

I don't think a product like Glaze-it would work on graphite plates. Glaze-it probably melted the surface of the gel coat but probably won't do a thing to graphite with no plastic type surface. The graphite plates on Penn reels is almost impervious to most chemicals. That's probably why Henz chose to use that material & it was easy to mold. Plastics break down in sunlight & heat & become brittle. Cars made with all the plastics today are falling apart after 10 years.
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