Trouble with spinning reel anti-reverse

[Backwater Outfitters]

I am working on a shimano Sonora 4000f. I do not have alot of experience with the spinning reels and need some assistance. Trying to figure out why the reel spins backwards even when the anti-reverse is engaged. I am assuming it has something to do with the roller clutch assembly. I am not afraid to take it apart to clean it up but not sure if it should be lightly greased, oiled, or put back together dry. Am I even on the right track with my thinking? I checked the anti-reverse cam switch and everything is engaged the way it should be so I don't think it has anything to do with that part. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[festus]

I found the schematic, if the spring, cam, and lever are ok, I really don't know what to say. But I don't think you need to grease the clutch assembly,maybe lightly oil. Good luck.

[philaroman]

1) there's a big bushing that the rollers "clutch"; it's considered part of A/R assembly, hence no individual part# & not shown on schematic...  WIDE END UP -- if you flipped it (or forgot it), A/R won't work

2) rollers & bushing should be clean & DRY!!!  for S/W you may want the tiniest amount of something to inhibit corrosion w/ minimal lubrication -- friction is part of the function

[Backwater Outfitters]

Thanks for the info. I will go with that and fingers crossed

[johndtuttle]

No lube at all on Shimano Clutches. You can lube the shaft where it goes into the sleeve, but nothing on the rollers.

Also, the Sonora has the "switch" to turn on and off the AR. Make sure that is assembled properly.

[boon]

No lube at all on Shimano Clutches. You can lube the shaft where it goes into the sleeve, but nothing on the rollers.

Also, the Sonora has the "switch" to turn on and off the AR. Make sure that is assembled properly.

I had a very squeaky Baitrunner 8000OC on the bench, had been dunked a whole lot, polished and cleaned and lightly oiled the clutch and it was still squeaky, caved and tried a very light coating of grease on the anti-reverse and it improved it immensely, still has enough grip to provide the maximum drag these reels produce (~6kg) no problem.

[johndtuttle]

No lube at all on Shimano Clutches. You can lube the shaft where it goes into the sleeve, but nothing on the rollers.

Also, the Sonora has the "switch" to turn on and off the AR. Make sure that is assembled properly.

I had a very squeaky Baitrunner 8000OC on the bench, had been dunked a whole lot, polished and cleaned and lightly oiled the clutch and it was still squeaky, caved and tried a very light coating of grease on the anti-reverse and it improved it immensely, still has enough grip to provide the maximum drag these reels produce (~6kg) no problem.

As the grease ages and becomes more sticky or dried out the clutch will likely begin to slip.

Shimano stamps "no grease" on their clutches for good reason. The large bases of the rollers are easily gummed up.

Certainly worn or pitted parts have to be rehabbed as best we can....just keep and eye on it and cross your fingers.

[wfjord]

1) there's a big bushing that the rollers "clutch"; it's considered part of A/R assembly, hence no individual part# & not shown on schematic...  WIDE END UP -- if you flipped it (or forgot it), A/R won't work

2) rollers & bushing should be clean & DRY!!!  for S/W you may want the tiniest amount of something to inhibit corrosion w/ minimal lubrication -- friction is part of the function

I just finished overhauling a Shimano Sahara 4000FE for a friend and took particular notice of that bushing that fell off when I removed the AR clutch. As philaroman said, putting that bushing on the right way fixes the problem.  I also kept the AR clutch grease/oil free.

[philaroman]

I just finished overhauling a Shimano Sahara 4000FE for a friend and took particular notice of that bushing that fell off when I removed the AR clutch. As philaroman said, putting that bushing on the right way fixes the problem.  I also kept the AR clutch grease/oil free.

precisely...  even if you're doing a quickie service, leaving the clutch in place, & happen to flip the reel over while A/R is switched off, that darn bushing goes flying...

I had a very squeaky Baitrunner 8000OC on the bench, had been dunked a whole lot, polished and cleaned and lightly oiled the clutch and it was still squeaky, caved and tried a very light coating of grease on the anti-reverse and it improved it immensely, still has enough grip to provide the maximum drag these reels produce (~6kg) no problem.

seen a few (all mid-price Malaysian) that were maintained by simply dumping more/different lube into the gear box; eventually, excess lube traveled into the clutch (esp. after a dunk) -- MAJOR SLIPPAGE!  ...clean/dry clutch & correctly lubed gear box -- no problems

also, bought a boxed, seemingly new, non-working Sahara 4000FB -- HUGE glob of grease in the clutch (actually looked like Shimano factory lube  )...  once again, MAJOR SLIPPAGE!  ...clean/dry clutch -- no problems, sweet deal for $20  

[boon]

No lube at all on Shimano Clutches. You can lube the shaft where it goes into the sleeve, but nothing on the rollers.

Also, the Sonora has the "switch" to turn on and off the AR. Make sure that is assembled properly.

I had a very squeaky Baitrunner 8000OC on the bench, had been dunked a whole lot, polished and cleaned and lightly oiled the clutch and it was still squeaky, caved and tried a very light coating of grease on the anti-reverse and it improved it immensely, still has enough grip to provide the maximum drag these reels produce (~6kg) no problem.

As the grease ages and becomes more sticky or dried out the clutch will likely begin to slip.

Shimano stamps "no grease" on their clutches for good reason. The large bases of the rollers are easily gummed up.

Certainly worn or pitted parts have to be rehabbed as best we can....just keep and eye on it and cross your fingers.

It's the balance between replacing the rather expensive clutch on a reel that is probably only worth $50 at this stage, versus periodically cleaning out and re-lubing the clutch. I know it goes against the conventional knowledge but if it's stupid and it works then it ain't that stupid 

[handi2]

Ive sprayed them out with WD-40 and they worked fine. Also a Q-Tip with TSI-321 no problem's.

Passload air tool cleaner is the best thing too clean them with. Its plastic safe.

[ez2cdave]

Here is the schematic as a JPG and PDF . . .



Tight Lines !